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Suggestions for someone starting out.

spentit

New member
I would like to purchase two detectors, one for myself and one for my daughter.

We live in an area that has lots of old ghost towns, abandoned mines, historical sites, and gold producing stream/creeks which we already spend time panning. We also vacation once a year in Cancun and love walking the beaches.

That said we will mostly be hunting these areas looking for coins, relics, jewelry, etc. I would love to be able to do some nugget hunting in the local stream but realize that may have to wait till we can afford a dedicated machine for gold.

I have been reading about the Garrett 250Ace and the Fisher F2 as starting units. Is one better for the novice than the other, are there others you would suggest we look at? What are we limited to with these machines? Are we better getting two the same, or two different models? Are we better getting higher end used machines?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Spencer.
 
You'll probably get enough opinions here to confuse you. Several other options at a good prices for beginers are the Tesoro Compadre, one knob, simple to use, but effective machine. Tesoro Silver Umax 2knobs and one toggle switch, easy to use but very effective. Both use just 1 9 volt battery and are very light weight with a lifetime warranty. They are beep and dig machines and do not have the meters which isn't as much of a handicap as you might think as starting out learning a detector, one should dig everything for a while, anyway. This is just another suggestion, don't mean that your choices are poor as they seem to be popular with a lot of people on the forums as well. One other suggestion - be sure to get headphones.
HH
BB
 
Buy 2 Garrett Ace 250's, cheap and has a great reputation, and its very easy to use. Great machine with a small price tag!!!
 
I own two Ace 250's. They are great coin and jewelry hunters. But for small gold it may not perform the best. If a nugget is of any good size the 250 would find it. Also most factory set detectors don't work as good on the wet salt beaches. I am hopefully planning a trip to Colorado and Florida this summer. I purchased a Minelab Xterra 70 for wet salt and gold prospecting. These detectors for what they do are reasonably priced compared to other multi use detectors. It is a keeper for sure. But I still use the Ace 250 for most all of my moderate soil hunting. I think this is a good combo to have. So this is what I suggest. Buy an Ace 250 and Xterra 70. Then you will have it all covered. Except for under water hunting.
 
Don't over look the Compadre just because it's cheep.

It will find small gold better than the Ace. The operating

frequency alone is better suited for finding small gold.

It will find coins with ease and makes a wonderful second detector.

The only problem is, I use it more than my more expensive metal detectors.

It's the one with just one knob.

3-13-1.jpg


Here is one hunt with a Compadre. There are two gold rings with diamonds.

I am not suggesting that you will have the same results.

I am just showing some of what the Compadre is capable of doing.

This site had been hunted, as evidenced by dig holes all over the place.

hot1.jpg


hot2.jpg


HH,
 
I think the Fisher F2 is the better deal if you're on a limited budget, it comes with an extra coil and rod, a little better depth than the Ace, better warranty. The Tesoros are also excellent machines, compadre and silver sabre umax, lifetime warranty. When you can afford it take a look at the Tesoro Lobo Super Traq, it's probably the best dual purpose detector on the market and has been for quite some time. Good luck!
 
Let me get off the technology wagon right now, and give you this:

Any detector you can buy for 200$ or more will suit your needs as a beginner.

I've tried many of them and still use some of them. This is a ballpark dollar number that has proven itself over and over again. Take it to heart - every manufacturer has.
But, we always get waaaaay too bogged down in all that electro-techno stuff, debating this detector or that one as better. My dear newbie, I encourage you to leave that to the "experts". Instead, realize there are other things of greater concern. With that said, allow me to present my,




"Top Ten Tips For Newcomers"

1. Dig!
This is foremost. We call it detecting, as in "finding metal objects," but that is only half of the matter. You won't ever know what you HAVE detected if you don't recover it. And you won't ever learn how your instrument responds to things if you don't. So bend the knee and dig... in the beginnig, dig everything your detector responds to.

2. DO NOT rely on meters or guages to solve your problems.
There is A LOT of junk bureid in the ground and nearly all of it can masquerade as good stuff. A Civil War slave tag or belt buckle can look like a large old can lid to your detector, for instance. I've seen it happen. Ditto other desirables.
All those luscious goodies you drool over on these forums have a huge pile of trash that accompanies them. No detector is reliable when it comes to positively identifying targets. Dont depend on them to do so.
For more on this, refer to Tip #1.

3. Turn the sensitivity down to start.
Dont expect to find stuff halfway to China, as most good things are within the first 8-12", at best. Also, detectors cannot materialize things from thin air nor vacuum them in from a distance, just by cranking up all the controls. Sensitivity, or SENS, that is too high only results in false signals and lots of frustration. Normally, I recommend doing the obvious: read the instructions.

4. Set time limits.
A. Plan to detect for a certain amount of time, as often as possible. Like any activity, good practice makes you better.
B. DO NOT detect longer that you should - set a limit on that, too. Remember you have a job and a family and friends.

5. Set Recovery Goals.
A certain coin, or artifact, a certain number of coins, etc. Then work to achieve them. I have mine, you should have yours. Some will say, "This is a hobby, and goals are for work" - dont listen to them.

6. Carry your detector with you as much as possible.
You never know when a chance to detect will come along and you want to be ready. This is one reason many detectorists have a backup unit. Spend the little money needed to get a carrying case for your unit.
(But dont store it in your car - EVER!! These are electronic instruments. The heat and jostling is murder on them and thieves know what they are worth, too).

7. Learn about your area and what you might actually find in specific locations.
It obviously does no good to take your detector to a parking lot, but you rarely need to go three states away, either. If you've done good research into your immediate locale, you will find many places close to home to search... places you can hit more often and with less aggravation. So learn to look at and see what may have been, not just what is there today. Every good detectorist does three things:

They learn about the earth itself. This includes the geology, geography and flora of the region.
They learn about the people of the area. Who, what, where, why and most importantly, WHEN.
They learn about precise location. The land is vast; you need to narrow your searches down through research and reconnoiter.

8. Talk to your friends and family about your new hobby.
Ask if they know any old places, or good modern places, where lots of people have been active. These people can likely lead you to many places, especially in the beginning.
Become and ambassador for this pastime. Make up some simple business cards on your computer, declaring yourself a "detectorist." Hand them around whenever the chance arises. Ask people if they have any ideas for places to search. But don't refer to yourself as a treasure hunter. That's for the unwise, since the word "treasure" gives everyone else the wrong idea.

9. Plan to do all sorts of detecting.
You are new and this hobby has lots to offer. Dont imagine yourself only "this sort" of detectorist or "that sort." Try it all.

10. Get a "possibles bag." I use a rugged, $2 carry-on luggage case from the thrift store. Keep these things in it:

Extra headphones.
Extra batteries for your detector(s)
2 Digging trowels (Get purpose built tools - not the cheap junk from WalMart.)
2 recovery aprons
1 10" probe
1 long screwdriver
1 8-10" inch hunting knife
1 sand sifting scoop
Garden gloves
Flashlight
Super glue and duct tape
...You can have more, but youll need all of these sooner or later.

BONUS TIP #11: "Be Determined and Have Fun."
[size=x-small]Copyright (C), 2008, dahut[/size]





Detecting success comes from effort and perseverence, not solely from electronic gear. Equipment that is up to the task is a requisite, but even the best gear wont find things in the wrong places.
 
ACE 250 NO DIALS NO SWITCHES AND WILL FIND EVERTHING YOU SEE IN THE PICS. TURN ON AND HUNT.


HAPPY TRAILS+GOOD HUNTING.
DAVE
 
I did ton's of research b4 purchasing a Garrett 2500. It came down to either the ace 250 or the GTI 2500.

Actually I still plan on buying the 250 as a backup/wife/friend machine.

I believe it will give you the best bang for your buck.

There is alot of hype out there and few facts. If you want to read some interesting tests check out this link:
http://www.waynesthisandthat.com/metaldetecting.html#menu

Gabby
 
Cut & Paste from AndyNM's site is a comparison between the Fisher F2 & the ACE250:

Air tests depth of the F2 with 4" coil is the same as the F4 with the 4" coil. (7.5 inches on a US quarter). Now try your more expensive detector with a small coil like that and hope to match the depth.
Some companies have only 5.5" or 6" coils as the smallest coil available. Not good enough for some extreme trash.

No secret that this detector is targeted at the Ace 250. Now you want to know : " Is it better than the Ace ?"

Yes it is !

Here is why:

1. Faster than the Ace
2. Deeper than the Ace
3. Pinpointing is easier due to the 8" round coil
4. The F2 shafts have cam locks (not on the Ace)
5. Better target solution, 100 numbers vs 12 zones on the Ace
6.Headphone jack on the left side (right side on the Ace)
7. Lower price $199 vs $212 of the Ace
8. 4" coil and lower stem for free (i don't know how long that offer will last). The Ace 4.5 sniper coil is about $60 and a lower rod $15.
9. Better balance due to lighter coil
10. More stable at higher sensitivity settings
11. Large DD coil available (Helps in bad soil)

Better on the Ace 250 is:

1. 4 AA batteries vs two 9 volts on the F2.
2.Keeps the last settings. F2 resets to factory settings every time you turn it off.
3. Modes can be changed faster. F2 has only one mode that can be programmed.
4..Notch in or out all 12 target zones. F2 can only notch 5 target zones.

You guys know i liked that Ace 250 so much that i made the Ace 250 tips and tricks booklet for it. It is still a fine detector but the Fisher F2 pushed the value level a step further.

No doubt without the Ace 250 the F2 wouldn't be here today.
 
once again, david, an excellent post. even the most experienced people can learn a lot reading this post. i've always endeavored to do the same. the failure of any one of the aforementioned items can easily make the difference between a good day or a bad day. wtg, it's a good read, and sage advice. hh,
 
even the $200.00 detectors can be keepers over time because the new technology incorporated into these detectors has the capability to out hunt more costly detectors!..this pursuit becomes reality IF the newbie LEARNS ALL that the detector is attempting to tell you!..only certain "tools" are required in today's detectors because VIRTUALLY everywhere you hunt these days is LOADED with trash.with the advent of the latest technology,these "tools" ARE available in lower cost detectors!..to put this in layman's language,it MAY never become necessary to move up..(so to speak!) to a more costly instrument with more bells and whistles!..bells and whistles that you may never use or NEED!..

(h,h!)
j.t.
 
The only thing I can tell you is check every beep, even if all you have found is junk that next beep could be something good, as far as detectors your daughter might do good with a cheep radio shack Jr kind, I bought mine 3 years ago and I have found a lot of stuff with it, it does'nt have earphones but it is light weight and easy to use.
 
While I agree with a lot of the above posts, the man said he is looking for a machine that would find gold nuggets without buying a dedicated gold machine. You can buy 2 X-Terra 70's with the 6 " DD 18.75 kHz coils for far less than a dedicated PI gold machine. The X-Terra machines work extremely well in finding very small gold nuggets and larger ones too. The 6 " coil is waterproof, the 5 X 10 DD coil is not. The X-terra works well in mineralized areas and has a very easy learning curve. It has a prospecting mode, coin and relic mode and beach mode. I started out with an Ace 250 and for the price, it's a darn good detector. It won't find small gold worth a darn, it is a great coin shooter and works fairly well in dry sand only. I have not tried the F-2, but am pretty sure it's in the same category as the 250. Reading what the man is looking for, it would be a far better investment to buy a detector that will do what he wants, find gold. He would be disappointed with the cheaper machines. The X-Terra 70 will do everything that you want to do, and do it very well. It would take very few nuggets to pay for the machines and if you can't find them, why bother. I hunt in gold areas and know first hand the lower priced machines don't get the job done.
Take a look at the X-Terra section on this site. Read the FAQFAQ section and look at the videos. The 70 has automatic or Manuel ground balance that works in the mineralized soils. The other lower priced machines have fixed ground balance. Fixed balance is not what you want in gold areas.
If you were just looking for a detector to coin shoot and find some relics, the lower priced machines would be the ideal starter machines, but for the requirements you listed, the lower priced machines would be a waste of money. The 70 is easy to learn, making it another bonus for the person just starting out in detecting.
Do a little more homework before investing your money. There are other very good brands of detectors out there in the price range of the X-Terra 70, but most take more time to learn. The X-Terra is a great coin shooter, relic finder, beach machine, both wet and dry and is the next best thing to a PI machine for finding gold.
The old prospecting areas are also loaded with tons of iron objects in the ground. The X-Terra 70 has the best iron masking abilities of any detector that I have ever used. It will mask the iron, let you know that it is there by blanking the signal and still find the good objects in between the iron ones. The DD coils offer great abilities to get inbetwen the junk to find the gold, coins and relics.
Go to the X-Terra section, see how happy the owners of these machines are, watch the video's, look at their finds. Then make up your mind.

Good hunting, John K
 
[quote rifleman]While I agree with a lot of the above posts, the man said he is looking for a machine that would find gold nuggets without buying a dedicated gold machine. [/quote]

Good point, but given the machines he posted, it looks like they'd like to spend around $200 a machine. The F2 has a 4" Nugget Shooter coil, and while it's obviously not going to give you the performance of a dedicated nugget shooter machine, it'll will find some stuff. I have the F4 (F2's big brother) and the 4" nugget shooter coil, and when I tested it with small nuggets, it was picking them up. Obviously their going to have to be pretty close to the surface, but I think in the right area you'd find enough stuff to have some fun.

Brian
 
Good points. I got the feeling that he might want to spend a little more to get what he wants. Maybe get one X-Terra 70 and one F-2 or Ace 250. Myself, I used to detect a lot in the 1980's, then didn't get back into detecting until I bought the Ace 250. For it's price, it did a very respectable job finding coins. I soon wanted more. I bought a Minelab SD2100 V-2 for finding gold nuggets, for the money it is a good machine also. My problem is a less than perfect back. The weight of the battery and detector really limited how long I could swing the machine. The other thing was that I wanted a better coin/relic detector that would still do a respectable job in finding gold. Looking back, I wish I would have just bought the 70 to begin with. I sold the ML 2100 and had enough money to buy the 70 and extra coils and still put a few $$$ in the bank. I'm very pleased with the performance of the 70. I still have the 250 and keep it for friends and family who don't have detectors and for a back up detector.
I hate to tell someone just starting out to buy an expensive detector because if they find out detecting is not something they want to pursue, it's a lot of wasted money. The second reason is the more expensive machines sometimes have long learning curves, such as the ML SE and some of the other quality brands. More than one person has given up in frustration trying to figure out a high end detector. The X-Terra has has a fairly easy learning curve for such a sophisticated machine.
My other question is: Does the F-2 have adjustable ground balance? The areas that have the old mines and gold tend to be more mineralized. Without adjustable ground balance, you can have a hard time getting a detector to run smooth unless you really cut down on the sensitivity. The DD coils really make a difference in those areas too. I think that it is wonderful that he wants to do the father daughter thing. Quality time with the kids is so important. I am really happy with my X-Terra and that is the reason I tend to push it. I don't fault anyone for their choice of detectors. In the end what is most important is that what ever detector you choose does the job for your intended uses and doesn't miss the good targets. Not everyone has the funds to buy a higher end detector, but spending a little more can really pay off with more valuable finds.It's frustrating to have someone behind you find a valuable coin, relic or piece of gold that your detector didn't register.

Good hunting, John K
 
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