Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

Sovereign / Excalibur bobby pins and bottle caps

You can disc 'em right out and still scoop gold!! I tend to use just enough disc to allow the bottlecaps to give scratchy sound, that's it!!
 
With some practice bottle caps are pretty easy to distinguish with your ear by their uneven sound signature. Come to think of it I have not found too many bobby pins so I suspect they are iron. If so they would typically cause Excal to null (when in disc mode), thus letting you know to leave them for the PI hunters. :thumbup:
 
I just dug one bobby pin at the beach today but I knew it was going to be something steel as it would only slightly sound off swept from one direction and was a total null the other. That's a handy way to tell those and bottle caps will get real obvious because they give a signature junk sound one way and something just as distinct the other (like say a junky coin or nickle signal one way but even worse the other). The response they give is unique among trash and so easy to ID after a while. The trick with either one of these is to listen to how deep it sounds. If it's fairly loud (though junky) then you can almost bet it's either one. If, however, the target sounds like it's got some decent depth to it then you best dig it because it could be something good that is fringe or masked enough to give a poor response, or perhaps is on edge in an odd way.

On the beach I don't care how bad the signal is, I'll dig it even if it's 99% a total null due to gold chains or other good stuff at depth or something. On land I use the above "how deep does it sound" trick to avoid junk like that. Something shallow shouldn't give you any trouble to sound off unless it's obviously masked. With careful inspection of the coil I expect to be able to isolate and good a good signal from the target. Otherwise you can start the guessing game as to what kind of trash it probably is.

Which brings up an interesting point. Does anybody else who's sick of digging shallow pennies at a trashy park for the day do what I do? I'll start checking those shallow penny signals to see if there is any trash nearby them. My logic is if it's masked then perhaps it's an old indian or other good find that nobody has discovered up until now. If it's shallow but with no trash around it on those days I can't stand to dig another penny I'll assume it's yet another modern penny and move on to the next target. Sometimes when I'm sick of digging clads I'll use that trick as well. Besides looking for the typical deep coin signal I'll dig any shallow "clad" hit if it's masked bad by trash. It could very well be an old coin that's not been discovered even though it's shallow due to the trash that's been hiding it. Good way to get selective on days where you are just worn out or can't stand to dig any more clads for the day. Usually I get that way after about 4 or 5 hours of hunting and then I get real particular about what potential coins I'll bother with. Anything past 6" of course, but also anything shallow yet hidden.

As another side note, this machine is killer on nickles. Never dug so many nickles in my life, and many of them are old and crusty that I've simply missed even if they were shallow with other machines. When the VDI says anything from about 139 to 148 (with most being between 144 and 146) and stays the same number or maybe changes by one digit when swept from other angles then you can almost bet it's a nickle. The audio is also very telling in that it will sound round and coin sized and pretty much rock solid in response. Where as round tab tails (mostly read below 140 but can get up to like 143 or so) will bounce around a good bit, usually 3 or 4 digits or more depending on how you sweep over them. They never give the "round" solid audio of a nickle, either, and when you go to pinpoint them they don't seem coin sized. Those drove me crazy when first learning the Sovereign but now 99% of the time I know when I've got a nickle for sure under the coil.

Even when just coin hunting I figure if I keep popping those nickles gold rings won't be long behind and my first shield nickle should be coming soon too. I don't know what it is but I enjoy taking my chances on those nickle signals being a ring or other good find even when I'm just in the mood to coin hunt. It's so much less of a let down to dig the hole and at least be assured it's going to be a nickle of some type if not that elusive gold ring.

With other machines I've owned the resolution in the nickle zone wasn't as good and that often meant it could be anything from foil to a pull tab or other piece of junk. The Sovereign will show you it's not something uniform in shape even if it's in the nickle zone, so when I'm being picky I can avoid just about all foil or aluminum that's right in the nickle zone just because I can see they aren't stable in ID depending on which way you sweep over them. They also often sound fuzzy at the edges or washed out or "bouncy" and harsh in audio where as the nickles have that nice solid smooth sound to them.

Most machines on the market simply don't have the resolution in this area of the scale nor the telling audio/vdi to clue you off to it being anything other than a nickle or possible gold ring. Not to mention many machines don't run at the right frequency(s) to hit with any kind of depth on lower conductive stuff like this. Remember, we've got the best of both worlds. A full spectrum of frequencies to hit hard on everything from high conductive silver coins to low conductive gold rings and nickles along with an assortment of other interesting items up and down the scale in terms of conductivity. The multi-frequencies isn't just about the ability to always have a few frequencies that will penetrate the ground minerals well when others don't, it's also about how certain frequencies light up certain conductive targets better than others as well.
 
Thanks Critter hunter that was an excellent post. I have been beach hunting over 30 years and am a die hard PI user however I have been considering the Sovereign for the dry and wet sand. I think I may be sold.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FAkFlWXstg
 
If a picture equals thousand words, 4.23 minutes of video equals an encyclopedia ! !

Tnx from Tasmania "Oldbeachnut"

Pete
 
Top