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Sov XS2 Pro question

Hi all,
For some back-ground info, I bought my first minelab about 2 months ago and have been practicing with it as much as I can.
I have heard there is a real learning curve with this machine and I believe it now. Many times I have given up in frustration trying to find an item spending 40-60 minutes on a single hole and the signal keeps on moving from one side to the next. My wife says she could plant trees in the holes I dig.
I used to use a BH Tracker IV and was able to pinpoint within 2" diam area and pop the coin out in seconds - granted they were all only 1-2" below the surface.
I have the sunray 180 meter on it, so that helps, but I think a sun-ray probe or somesort of pinpointer is an inevitable purchase. I am learning a little each time I go out, but wow is this machine different. My hat goes off to all you guys with your finds as I see that each "older" coin takes alot of work to pull out of the ground.
Am I missing something? I did buy it used on ebay and have thought of sending it in to a dealer for servicing, maybe something is wrong, but I think it is more me than the machine. So far I have one quarter and 4 pennies to show for my efforts.
Any help (or encouragement) would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MM

 
It is a great detector once you understand it. The tones will take you a little while and why having a good 180 meter is important and being you have the SunRay there is a template showing you where the numbers for differnt coins read. First thing is to see the meter is calibrated so when you go over a new dime back and forth only over the dime you will get a 179-180 reading. If not then adjust it untill it gets those number and none higher. Now when you go over a copperpenny, clad coin or silver it should give you thins 179-180 reading along with the high tones of a good coin. The new zinc pennies and the IH may sound the same, but the numbers will be 176-177 for me.
Remember this detector is made to go slow as it see so much more than what you have been using, so go slow and listen for the tones changing, then work that signal back and forth with the coil only going over just the are where the coin is trying to keep the tone as steady as possible as this is where you get you best ID of that target. When they are super deep this may only be a very small area and where swinging the coil back and forth may look more of a wiggle than a accualy swinging of the coil.

On pinpointing I find one of the ways I use more than anything and find the most accurate is after you get a signal you want to recover switch to all metal pinpoint and go side to side with the coil to center it to give the loudest signal, but only side to side not forward or backwards. Now when you have it centered by going side to side pus the coil to the ground so it dont move off that spot and you turn 90 degrees (1/4 turn) with the detector in your hand so accualy the coil is still in the same spot, but the coil has turned, now go side to side again and when you have it centered this time the target will now be right under the very centered of the coil if you did it right.
If you would have had the S1 probe of Sunrays and it wasnt very deep it too would save you a lot of time as I just get the general location of the target and use the probe to find it.
Just take you time and pratice and soon you will see why we love our Sovereigns.

Good luck
 
I will try the all-metal trick.
I did re-calibrate the meter when I received it so it is working fine.
I will also try to pay more attention to the tones. I know it is a great machine as I did quite a bit of research on it prior to buying it, I am just surprised at the HUGE difference there is. Its like comparing a kite to the spaceshuttle.
Thanks again,
MM
 
Rick may not have impressed this point on you.......
The Sov is a motion only machine in BOTH disc and all metal.
No matter which mode you use, it is still motion only.
Your BH has a "no-motion" pinpoint mode, I think. Sov is not like that.
Almost like pinpointing in disc mode with the BH..........eyeball between the beeps.
Just responds a bit different.

HH
 
In addition to the above comments (which require some practice to refine your pin-pointing technique) ... if hunting in the disc mode when you get a signal you're interested in, switch to pin-point mode and try to get the target centered (even put a golf tee where you think it is).

Then try disc mode again and relocate your target. If there is a two or more inch difference between the two points you probably have found trash. Often a long, thin object (such as a nail) can be very hard to locate as frequently it will be off to the side and can be tough to zero in on. The closer the two modes locate the object the better chance it is good and will be found where your golf tee is. Also swing from several directions around the target ... the more the signal is the same in more than one direction the better it is.

One other thing is that retrieving deeper targets can be tricky and a pin-pointer, such as, a vibraprobe or sunray, can be very useful.

Hope this helps ... good luck!
 
Thank you for the extra input. I tend to over simplify.
Iron and oblong trash present other problems.
If I was as thorough as Rick on explanations, then I would not need a good slap as often.
HH
 
Now I can't wait to try it again.
I love the golf T idea.
Thanks, I'll let you know how it turns out!
MM
 
I have done that. When I first got my S-12 , someone asked how well they pinpoint.
I used broken off Q-tips to mark the spot, and started my pinpointing from a different position each time.

Very impressive.

When I first started using the Sov, I tried a step in bulb planter to dig targets. Would mark the spot with a golf tee, then stomp the thing straight down over it. Maybe had 1 in six even touch the inside. Most coins were nearly centered in the plug.

 
I have done that. When I first got my S-12 , someone asked how well they pinpoint.
I used broken off Q-tips to mark the spot, and started my pinpointing from a different position each time.

Very impressive. Have deleted the the picture, but had a spread of just over an inch for six pinpoints.

When I first started using the Sov, I tried a step in bulb planter to dig targets. Would mark the spot with a golf tee, then stomp the thing straight down over it. Maybe had 1 in six even touch the inside. Most coins were nearly centered in the plug.

It works good. Just feel it out.

HH


 
Yeah get a pin pointer! When I first started, I would use my big knife (9" blade) that I used for cutting plugs to center the target. After stabbing a couple of nice coins, I decided that I would use my Vibra Probe to mark the spot and darn if it didn't usually hit right on the target and I didn't need to cut a plug at all, just spread the grass with the tip of the knife and my fingers and pop the coin out.
Rick just told you the absolute easiest way to "x" the center of the coin and you can do this in disc, so you don't really need to fool with your detector, once you have the right "sens" & "disc". Good luck, skill comes with practice! The Sov is the best there is for learning how to become a ther! HH,

Bill
 
I am going to try all these things as soon as I can. Which looks like Sunday afternoon now. Too busy with work and other things until then. I also am going to get a pinpointer - probably a white's bullseye.
Thanks again,
HH
MM

 
MM, think twice about that Bullseye. I had one and I did not like it. The Vibra Probe is far superior and much easier to use. I also have the Treasure Mate, but, I still use my VP.

 
Forget the bullseye in my opinion as I dont know if it will help you much. You have a detector that goes deep and sees more, so why use a pinpointer that dont go much further than a inch. The SunRay will go a good 3 or more and works though your detector. I seen on another classified Chuck has used one of the S1 for $90 . You can get a uniprobe too that will even go deeper, but cost a bit more. I preferre the SunRay on the Sovereign and I know it has save me time and found coins the others couldnt.

Rick
 
I didn't realize that there was such a difference in pinpointers.
I will look into the sun-ray probe.
Thanks again,
HH
MM
 
Hello Marcus. I have to agree with Rick on the pinpoint procedure. I usually hunt in discriminate mode with the dials backed of and when I find a good target I first do the x pinpoint in discrimination mode until I get the loudest sound and switch to all metal and go through the same process. Swing the coil from side to side until you have the loudest sound with the shortest movement of the coil and do the same one quarter of a turn around. If the centre of the target in the all metal pinpoint mode is very close to the centre of the pinpoint in discriminate mode then you should be on a good target. if the centre of both al metal and discriminate modes are more than
 
I appreciate the advice and I will try it as soon as I can. I am extremely busy these last few days, but hope to get a couple hours together this weekend to try all these pointers.
I use a similar method to the plastic sheet, only its a plastic oil-change pan (not used for oil though) I just dump everything I dig in it and can check through it all and move the dirt around without losing it. Although a plastic sheet would be easier to carry around.
Thanks again, and throw another shrimp on the Bar-be for me!
HH
MM
 
I have been using a plastic bag that had contained water softener pellets.

If I cut the plug clear out, I place it on the left side. Next, every scoop of dirt is placed just to the right. You end up with a plug in line with the dirt in the order in which it was removed, rather than just a big heap of dirt.

Procedure is the same if the plug was only horseshoe cut and folded over.

Makes it much easier to find the object and pour the dirt back in the hole.
HH
 
That sounds like a good idea.
Man, I am getting alot of good advice here. I thank you all for sharing your expertise with a rookie.
HH
MM
 
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