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Sov Elite
- Thread starter asanaman
- Start date
On the GT the location of the controls where put back to where the older Sovereigns were, on the Elite it seems like they got bumped easy and changed. On the GT they added some extra toggle switches, one was for silent search for those that like to hunt with silent search, another switch was the disc/all metal switch as it was a 3 position switch so you could turn on or off the iron mask. When in all metal there was another switch that was active the track/lock/pinpoint switch plus another switch so you can change the freq just a little so for electrical interference or if hunting close to another Sovereign you could shift the freq a little.
Performance wise I felt the GT maybe wasn't as stable and falsed a little more on iron the way I run mine, but easy to tell the difference in most cases from experience. The GT will ID deeper and I found the audio to be easier to hear for me and can tell the depth by the sounds better. When I went to the XS2 to the Elite I felt the signals sounded deeper than the actually were as they were weaker. sounding on the Elite.
The GT in my opinion is more of the professional Sovereign as it can do more for those that know there Sovereigns well.
Performance wise I felt the GT maybe wasn't as stable and falsed a little more on iron the way I run mine, but easy to tell the difference in most cases from experience. The GT will ID deeper and I found the audio to be easier to hear for me and can tell the depth by the sounds better. When I went to the XS2 to the Elite I felt the signals sounded deeper than the actually were as they were weaker. sounding on the Elite.
The GT in my opinion is more of the professional Sovereign as it can do more for those that know there Sovereigns well.
Thanks for the note, all in all the Elite is still a comparable machine? Right?
And by reading the message you wrote, I take you it you still use an Elite, is that right. My questions really go toward upgrading from this to the GT, and if there really isn't a great deal change then, I won't. I picked the Elite up for a bargain as it was only used maybe 4 times, and it really is like new...
K
And by reading the message you wrote, I take you it you still use an Elite, is that right. My questions really go toward upgrading from this to the GT, and if there really isn't a great deal change then, I won't. I picked the Elite up for a bargain as it was only used maybe 4 times, and it really is like new...
K
I have an Elite and a GT. Today I loaned my Elite to my buddy for his first beach hunt. He found a 10K ring w/ 3 diamonds. I estimate it's value at 750.00. He never used a Sovereign before. The Elite is simple and powerful. Sometimes I think decisions need to be made simple. We were hunting close to each other and at no time did I think he was at a disadvantage. The iron mask switch has been recently discussed by Crazyman on this forum. It seems to be more of a use in high mineral ground. The Elite gets enough depth. If you want more slap on a bigger coil.
bigtim1973
Well-known member
asanaman said:
I am in your shoes also.....I just got ahold of a sovereign elite also at a price that I could not even pass up...I also purchased the book called finding gold silver and coins with sovereign and excaliber detectors from kellyco. I just started reading it last night and from what I have read so far on the differences is the GT has enhanced tones for hunting in all metal.....It has a ground track feature also which is in part the same switch as the iron mask. They say it is easier to tell if a target is deeper or shallower with the GT. Other than that, and some may argue, that is the only difference I have read so far between the 2. I do not think by any means we should worry about it being an out dated machine............It is still a good unit and the same coils and meters that work for the GT, will work on the Elite too. There are guys out there that still use the original sovereign and have had them for many years still getting good results. I would not worry about it too much. Heck to tell you the truth I have only bought used machines for myself in the past few years and I have never had a lick of trouble out of any of them. Tim
Okay, NOW I have a (I Think) a good question... The Digi-meter on this Elite is a little confusing.. By that I mean it doesn't get close to the VDI Chart that was posted some time ago. I understand that it will NOT match the chart per se...
The issue I come to find is that
1) When I set the mid-point between the upper and lower range ( all the way left and right), it hits somewhere around 497... Okay...
2) according to the manual, 'setting' a quarter to the 'nearest increment of 5, say with a quarter, and while the coil is on clear ground, it will be 'calibrated to 500...
3) now, if I try to get to 550, it tops out with no more adjustment... Absolutely none, end of dial out, nada....
4) While it is constant and running fine, I AM SURE, I will hear the ultimate conclusion (next)...
5) Make you own chart with the range you are getting, am I right? hahaha
Or is there something about the meter I am missing....?
K
The issue I come to find is that
1) When I set the mid-point between the upper and lower range ( all the way left and right), it hits somewhere around 497... Okay...
2) according to the manual, 'setting' a quarter to the 'nearest increment of 5, say with a quarter, and while the coil is on clear ground, it will be 'calibrated to 500...
3) now, if I try to get to 550, it tops out with no more adjustment... Absolutely none, end of dial out, nada....
4) While it is constant and running fine, I AM SURE, I will hear the ultimate conclusion (next)...
5) Make you own chart with the range you are getting, am I right? hahaha
Or is there something about the meter I am missing....?
K
bigtim1973
Well-known member
That is exactly how my 550 meter sets also.......In a way I am glad because I do not have to worry with making a note of where the knob is because it is turned in one direction all of the way. Most of the silver coins and such will come in at 550 or so. The Indian Head pennies will come in the same as zinc pennies and some old bottle caps with a lower tone also. In other words there is not really a difference in the denomination of the silver coins you find because they come in around the same number and same tone ID also. There is a chart for some things someone has made on here that I asked and you can scroll down and see where some one posted a 550 chart for me. I am going to have to make my own reference chart for this thing because I relic hunt also. I hardly ever find a ring but I am going to take a few of my sweethearts gold rings and take note of where they come in just incase I do run across a gold ring one day. I have never found a piece of gold the whole time I have detected but for the most part I was a coin shooter and relic hunter. I am thinking of converting my meter to the 180 scale but I am just not sure yet, Tim
So Bigtim, am I to assume you dial your meter all the way up, and then the items on that chart you requested ( or at least was told about) matches the your findings, as far as the chart goes? I have not tried it against the chart that way, so that is why I am, asking. I saw the same chart you was questioning about, but have not tried to see if it would match. I cannot see where the meter is calibrated when it is totally dialed up to where there is no further adjustment or range....
Anyway I do it all, relics, coins and diving, so I do have a really full arsenal of underwater machines as well as Land detectors. I have just started in the last year looking at using the minelab machines, sooo..
K
Anyway I do it all, relics, coins and diving, so I do have a really full arsenal of underwater machines as well as Land detectors. I have just started in the last year looking at using the minelab machines, sooo..
K
bigtim1973
Well-known member
Yes so far what I do have to test it out with comes out about the same but, I know it is going to vary somewhat by a few numbers because of depth and moisture and such in the ground but all in all if the meter can read it, and the tones are right, it should be close. I took a quarter and dialed it in to 550, which was with the knob all of the way to one side, then I took a silver quater I had found before and swung it by the coil and it read like 552.....That is close enough for me. Another thing I noticed was the signal was the same whether the coin was flat or on edge..I did the same with a mercury dime also and got the same results. I am going to take some pull tabs, round kind and square kind, plus some of the old pull ring typs with the tails on them and see what they fall under also. I have not taken any civil war bullets and swung them under the coil yet to see where they come in but when I can I am going to take a few notes and make my own chart. I also have a large silver ring I wear pretty often and it came in to about 554. From all I have read about this thing is if it will lock on a target and has a solid repeatable signal then by all means dig. That is basically what I have always done excpt when cherry picking targets. Another thing I have noticed too is, with either coil I dialed in with the meter, the 800 tornado or 1000 tornsdo, the calibration was exactly the same for the meter. I just got ahold of the 5" DD excelerater coil from kellyco but I have not had a chance to put it on and see how it reacts to the meter though. I think they put the calibration on the back of the meter because there are alot of after market coils available for the sovereign and coil windings and such will vary depending on manufactorer. So I guess that is why it is an adjustable meter, Tim
If your meter says Digi-Meter it is a 180 meter, if it says Minelab on the meter is is probably a 550 meter. Now you know the calibration is only done in the disc mode as in all metal PP it is only a intensity meter telling you the strengh of the signal. Wave the copper or clad coin across the coil and try to get the reading as high as possible and then calibrate to 179-180 bounce with the control on back of the meter. If it is a 550 meter you try to get it as close to 550 as you can, if turning all the way up and it can not get to 180 or 550 for the 550 meter then there is something wrong with the meter.
Art (NWOH)
New member
You can get them close in all metal because of the all metal default tone. The need may arise if you forget to carry a coin with you.
A 550 meter usually be about right if it is calibrated to 384 in all metal. A 180 will be about right if calibrated to 124 I think. It's easy to check.
Calibrate in disc mode, then switch to pinpoint. The number you see is the default all metal and the default startup number in disc.
This will get you within a digit or two of the right 180 or 550 calibration.
HH
A 550 meter usually be about right if it is calibrated to 384 in all metal. A 180 will be about right if calibrated to 124 I think. It's easy to check.
Calibrate in disc mode, then switch to pinpoint. The number you see is the default all metal and the default startup number in disc.
This will get you within a digit or two of the right 180 or 550 calibration.
HH
foiled again tab hunter
Member
n/t
Minelab has opened a new service center in Downer Grove,IL and added some more service people. Minelab will still repair some of the older units over 10 years old if there is still part available for them.
For beach use the Sovereign is a lot better than the Musketeer which is more of a relic detector.
For beach use the Sovereign is a lot better than the Musketeer which is more of a relic detector.
I think this is on start up before any metal is seen if I remember right, so you would have to make sure it is held in the air in auto sensitivity or a very low sensitivity so you don't get any stray signals. Does that sound about right?? I knew there was a way,but didn't remember what the numbers were and was hoping you would post it for others to see.
Rick
Rick
Art (NWOH)
New member
Rick, you are right about not getting stray signals, as when you calibrate with a coin you also don't want to have a stray signal change what the meter SHOULD say before you get it adjusted.
At turn on, the meter (550) wiill display 384 or thereabouts or 124 or thereabouts for a 180.....if the meter is already calibrated and does not need adjustment.
If a stray bumps the ID and tone in disc mode, the meter will change and you will have to wave a coin again if in disc mode. This will drive you nuts trying to calibrate at a noisy location. In all metal it will only glitch for a moment, then return to the default tone and reading.
As long as you don't get a iron tone with it's negative reading in disc mode, the meter and tone will always return to default in all metal. If you have gotten an iron tone in disc and switched to all metal, the meter will continue to display the negative number even though the tone returns to default. You could always calibrate to the iron tone reading, but who wants to.
A benefit of this is that you don't really need a coin to check calibration....it will be pretty close as long as you see the 'majic number'. You can check calibration when you start to pinpoint in all metal just by glancing at the meter. This tells you if you need to recalibrate or not at any given moment during the hunt, again provided you are not hearing the iron buzz in discriminate when you throw the switch to all metal.
Find the majic number....
Calibrate with a coin as normal, flip to pinpoint, read the number. I find that my 550 meters should be adjusted to 384-385 alternately switching back and forth for a 550 high coin calibration.
HH
At turn on, the meter (550) wiill display 384 or thereabouts or 124 or thereabouts for a 180.....if the meter is already calibrated and does not need adjustment.
If a stray bumps the ID and tone in disc mode, the meter will change and you will have to wave a coin again if in disc mode. This will drive you nuts trying to calibrate at a noisy location. In all metal it will only glitch for a moment, then return to the default tone and reading.
As long as you don't get a iron tone with it's negative reading in disc mode, the meter and tone will always return to default in all metal. If you have gotten an iron tone in disc and switched to all metal, the meter will continue to display the negative number even though the tone returns to default. You could always calibrate to the iron tone reading, but who wants to.
A benefit of this is that you don't really need a coin to check calibration....it will be pretty close as long as you see the 'majic number'. You can check calibration when you start to pinpoint in all metal just by glancing at the meter. This tells you if you need to recalibrate or not at any given moment during the hunt, again provided you are not hearing the iron buzz in discriminate when you throw the switch to all metal.
Find the majic number....
Calibrate with a coin as normal, flip to pinpoint, read the number. I find that my 550 meters should be adjusted to 384-385 alternately switching back and forth for a 550 high coin calibration.
HH
Art (NWOH)
New member
As long as it adjusts to 550 there is nothing wrong with it. It should adjust to both above and below 550.
How far did you want it to be able to adjust?
HH
How far did you want it to be able to adjust?
HH