[attachment 76402 YTD07.jpg][attachment 76403 TENPLUS002.jpg]Thanks to those who purchased my book. I believe that a big part of adapting sucessfully to conditions is simply have a lot of "things to try" and I hope the book has outlined a few of these.
Thought I would post a few "add-ons" that I would have liked to have put in for thoroughness's sake.
1/ Pennies: One thing I've noticed since the book went out is that when you slow the coili down, all the "off" tones of a copper come out--helping you to hear it. While there is a lot of gold that responds at the same range, these are always smoother signals without all the mixed tones.
2/ The illustration for the tether shown in the book is a good design, but it will snag less (on the stand part of the elbow brace) if you secure it horizontally around the two sides of the brace, top or bottom.
3/ Auto: Kind of gave auto a bad rap in that it is good for sites with a lot of iron / non iron type "half signals" (caps, slag, old tabs, that kind of thing). Don't want to sound like auto is completely useless because it can be very valuable at times.
4/ Could have also mentioned that running the disc up at a (Sov' preset)-type range will often help to make finding a smooth threshold setting easier although I still feel that any disc slows / impairs the response.
5/ Deep signals: Since writing the book I have noticed that the way to tell the flutter tone of deep iron from a good target is that a good target will have peak in the middle whereas iron will stay the same throughout.
YTD '07 is just short of 23 oz.'s mostly 18, some 14, some PLAT at right, and a 26" 89 gr. (14k) Russian anchor-link "Protect and Save" chain.
Merry Christmas and a prosperous and fulfilling New Year,
Clive James Clynick
Thought I would post a few "add-ons" that I would have liked to have put in for thoroughness's sake.
1/ Pennies: One thing I've noticed since the book went out is that when you slow the coili down, all the "off" tones of a copper come out--helping you to hear it. While there is a lot of gold that responds at the same range, these are always smoother signals without all the mixed tones.
2/ The illustration for the tether shown in the book is a good design, but it will snag less (on the stand part of the elbow brace) if you secure it horizontally around the two sides of the brace, top or bottom.
3/ Auto: Kind of gave auto a bad rap in that it is good for sites with a lot of iron / non iron type "half signals" (caps, slag, old tabs, that kind of thing). Don't want to sound like auto is completely useless because it can be very valuable at times.
4/ Could have also mentioned that running the disc up at a (Sov' preset)-type range will often help to make finding a smooth threshold setting easier although I still feel that any disc slows / impairs the response.
5/ Deep signals: Since writing the book I have noticed that the way to tell the flutter tone of deep iron from a good target is that a good target will have peak in the middle whereas iron will stay the same throughout.
YTD '07 is just short of 23 oz.'s mostly 18, some 14, some PLAT at right, and a 26" 89 gr. (14k) Russian anchor-link "Protect and Save" chain.
Merry Christmas and a prosperous and fulfilling New Year,
Clive James Clynick
