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silver quarters ?
- Thread starter tomcatpl
- Start date
The Silver a lot of times will look like it was just dropped yesterday unlike a clad coin that turns black.Good Luck Ron
Critterhunter
New member
Maybe he was asking about ID or sound wise?
Half dimes will give a 176.HH Ron
Critterhunter,thanks at least I tried to answer both. HH Ron
Critterhunter
New member
Thank you for the number on a half dime. I'm trying to pin down numbers from sources other than the few charts out there as I don't trust them. They differ from my readings in noise band 2 on the GT, despite what others have said. I sold off all my silver a little while back. Yea, it killed me but I had no choice. The only "odd" coin I've held onto is an 1858 3 cent piece in mint condition, and even that is at a friend's house right now. So, long story short, I don't have all those odd coins to test, other than indians and such.
Critterhunter,been a bad year for a lot of us,money wise.I sold off a lot of my silver, well at least the price was decent.The good thing about this hobby it can pay for itself and unused equipment not needed usually has a good resale value.My goal for next season find more gold. HH Ron
Identifying silver coins recovered with a metal detector is usually very easy, silver comes out of the ground a brilliant silver, while clad coins come out of the ground blackened. However, I have recovered silver coins from some alkali soil ghost towns that were blackened or a very dark gray as well. I understand that silver coins recovered from salt water beaches can appear the same way. On occasion, you will find a silver coin that has come to rest against a piece of iron that will discolor the surface.
Often, when recovering a silver coin, you will see the brilliant silver reeded edge first. It always makes my eyes widen a bit.
As for the upcoming year;
I'll third that motion.
1. Find more gold.
2. Being new with the Sovereign I need to move from novice to advanced and eventually down the road, to expert.
Good luck in the coming year everybody.
Rich (Utah)
Often, when recovering a silver coin, you will see the brilliant silver reeded edge first. It always makes my eyes widen a bit.
As for the upcoming year;
Ron from Michigan said:
I'll third that motion.
1. Find more gold.
2. Being new with the Sovereign I need to move from novice to advanced and eventually down the road, to expert.
Good luck in the coming year everybody.
Rich (Utah)
Gearbox;
Very good ;
I would like to add my two cents worth on hunting with numbers in Reverse:
If you are looking for numbers to guarantee you a good or bad target your in the wrong game. We have all dug items that are way off on the meter from where they belong. Silver dimes hitting in the 120's bottle caps hitting 180 and such.
I tell people asking about the meter and numbers that there much like a wife ; they'll fib to you once in a while when they feel like it.
If it rings solid dig it. ;
The best thing I have found to use the meter numbers for is reverse numbers I call it. If your hunting a place like we hunt a big city park within about 5 miles of 3 major beer makers. The bottle caps and pull tabs are two specific numbers 99.9% of the time so we by the rights of keeping our sanity dont dig the two numbers ; Dig every other good sound. Instead of digging what might be or will be good just dont dig the things that or overwhelming that odds are way out for being something good in a particular spot.
Otherwise you gonna miss something good
Everyone have a great 2010 diggin season ; Rememeber Meters are great tools ; but poor for crutches.
Grumpy
Very good ;
I would like to add my two cents worth on hunting with numbers in Reverse:
If you are looking for numbers to guarantee you a good or bad target your in the wrong game. We have all dug items that are way off on the meter from where they belong. Silver dimes hitting in the 120's bottle caps hitting 180 and such.
I tell people asking about the meter and numbers that there much like a wife ; they'll fib to you once in a while when they feel like it.
If it rings solid dig it. ;
The best thing I have found to use the meter numbers for is reverse numbers I call it. If your hunting a place like we hunt a big city park within about 5 miles of 3 major beer makers. The bottle caps and pull tabs are two specific numbers 99.9% of the time so we by the rights of keeping our sanity dont dig the two numbers ; Dig every other good sound. Instead of digging what might be or will be good just dont dig the things that or overwhelming that odds are way out for being something good in a particular spot.
Otherwise you gonna miss something good
Everyone have a great 2010 diggin season ; Rememeber Meters are great tools ; but poor for crutches.
Grumpy
Critterhunter
New member
Sure, I dig anything above iron at most of my sites, but only where things aren't severly trashy. I'll then try to dig the "iffy" coin signals that are trying to behave like a coin if the trash is real bad. Still, there are spots where I'm only in the mood to dig perfect numbers due to time or trash content, and that's when it comes in handy to know what the proper VDI # should be most of the time. Besides, it's always a little more thrilling to dig a target when the VDI agrees that it should be something good. I look at a perfect VDI # on a chart as something to shoot for. At least knowing where the number should be gives me a better idea of what an iffy signal might be, regardless of where it is reading number wise.
It's been a bad year for a lot of people, for sure. This was maybe my second or third time I've ever sold off all my silver, including silverware and rings. While I don't mind most of the coins, the rare ones are what hurts. That's why I held onto the 1858 3 cent silver. According to my book it should be the most expensive coin I've found yet, somewhere in the $180 to $260 (from memory...may be wrong) range depending on how specificly it's graded. I'm not selling that bugger for 12 times face value. Most others are worth that, but not it.
It's been a bad year for a lot of people, for sure. This was maybe my second or third time I've ever sold off all my silver, including silverware and rings. While I don't mind most of the coins, the rare ones are what hurts. That's why I held onto the 1858 3 cent silver. According to my book it should be the most expensive coin I've found yet, somewhere in the $180 to $260 (from memory...may be wrong) range depending on how specificly it's graded. I'm not selling that bugger for 12 times face value. Most others are worth that, but not it.
I see so many posts about getting the good targets and leaving the trash
Quite often you need to clean out the trash to get to the good stuff, if everyone dug some of the trash within a few years things would be alot better both detecting and enviroment wise. I feel good when i empty my trash side of the pouch at the end of the hunt and look upon the few good items as payment for my labour. I don't go out of my way to get trash but if i see a bit of aluminium paper or pulltab and the likes in my path i pick it up, if left within a short time it becomes a hidden detectable target and could be masking something
Quite often you need to clean out the trash to get to the good stuff, if everyone dug some of the trash within a few years things would be alot better both detecting and enviroment wise. I feel good when i empty my trash side of the pouch at the end of the hunt and look upon the few good items as payment for my labour. I don't go out of my way to get trash but if i see a bit of aluminium paper or pulltab and the likes in my path i pick it up, if left within a short time it becomes a hidden detectable target and could be masking something
Critterhunter
New member
I often do dig everything above iron, but that all depends on the spot, it's potential, and the amount of trash present. One area I hunt is simply huge and would take a lifetime to dig all the junk out of. When this spot stops producing keepers with perfect ID#s (I'm gridding as time permits) then I'll go back and start digging the more iffy stuff and grid it again, which again will take a few years. It's more of a time thing for me. If I spent years digging every signal while gridding this spot somebody could beat me to most of the coins by simply cherry picking the good signals before I get to them. That's why I'm only digging good targets for now there...to get the place gridded first by cherry picking.
I don't mind the trash and am glad it exists at most sites. If there wasn't a lot of trash out there to mask good coins we'd have a lot less silver being found today. I look at those real trashy large sites as my insurance policy against running out of places to hunt years from now. I can one day go back and spend years digging each and every signal. I already dig everything above iron out of small areas I've found that have good potential. Mostly these are spots I know nobody else has permision to hunt and so I have all the time in the world to hunt them.
I don't mind the trash and am glad it exists at most sites. If there wasn't a lot of trash out there to mask good coins we'd have a lot less silver being found today. I look at those real trashy large sites as my insurance policy against running out of places to hunt years from now. I can one day go back and spend years digging each and every signal. I already dig everything above iron out of small areas I've found that have good potential. Mostly these are spots I know nobody else has permision to hunt and so I have all the time in the world to hunt them.
My personal guidelines for digging or not;
1. Where am I hunting?
2. How much time do I have?
If I am hunting private property I will dig all the signals unless I don't have the time. Then I will play the odds like critterhunter mentions above. If it is a one time deal hunting private property and I don't have enough time to hunt all of it, I will try to make it as productive as possible, hunting areas that are more likely to contain items based upon past experience.
When hunting private property, I typically set my discrimination just above iron so that I am seeing small wads of foil. With my 'new' XS-2a Pro, I've been using it at 9 o'clock. As I become more proficient I anticipate moving this closer to 0.
If I am hunting public property like a park, I will typically play the odds unless I have found what appears to be a productive area. Then I will try to get the pull tabs, foil wads and other unwanteds out of the way so I can find the good stuff.
If I am NOT IN THE MOOD for digging a bunch of trash, but still feel like I want to go detecting, I will ATTEMPT to cherry pick using meter and audio.
Good luck out there to everybody. Hope you find a lot of silver quarters in the New Year.
Rich (Utah)
1. Where am I hunting?
2. How much time do I have?
If I am hunting private property I will dig all the signals unless I don't have the time. Then I will play the odds like critterhunter mentions above. If it is a one time deal hunting private property and I don't have enough time to hunt all of it, I will try to make it as productive as possible, hunting areas that are more likely to contain items based upon past experience.
When hunting private property, I typically set my discrimination just above iron so that I am seeing small wads of foil. With my 'new' XS-2a Pro, I've been using it at 9 o'clock. As I become more proficient I anticipate moving this closer to 0.
If I am hunting public property like a park, I will typically play the odds unless I have found what appears to be a productive area. Then I will try to get the pull tabs, foil wads and other unwanteds out of the way so I can find the good stuff.
If I am NOT IN THE MOOD for digging a bunch of trash, but still feel like I want to go detecting, I will ATTEMPT to cherry pick using meter and audio.
Good luck out there to everybody. Hope you find a lot of silver quarters in the New Year.
Rich (Utah)
Critterhunter
New member
That's about what I do. If it's a one shot deal on private property I'll cherry pick. If it's an empy lot that seems to be city property I'll also cherry pick at first in case I do get kicked out for whatever reason. If it's a productive spot I'll go back and dig everything above iron once I've cherry picked all the good coin signals. I have a remote location in the woods that I'm doing that with now. A friend and I were the first to hunt it based on the ease of finds and it's remote location. We gridded out all the good coin signals, then gridded it out again digging everything above iron. I've been back there with the GT and with this third grid I've already got a few wheats and other targets we simply missed or couldn't detect with our other machines. I'm anxious to get back there with the GT again when the weather breaks.