Sef on Excal11

[powerwalker]

Hi All
I want to put a sef coil on my excal11
I bought a 12x15 coil secondhand from a dealer i use all the time
I'm waiting for some fittings to arrive to connect the sef to the excal so i decided to do a temp job to test the sef
the 4 wires from the excal are
black
red
yellow
white
the 4 wires from sef are
black
brown
green& yellow
grey
i connected the black to black
red to brown
yellow to green&yellow
white to grey
when i switched her on i got the threshold hum but nothing when i ran a coin over the sef coil
anybody got any idea's
as anyone fitted a sef to there excal?
any help appreciated Pete

 

[Critterhunter]

Search this forum for color codes or sef wiring as it's been covered. Also try the key word shrink wrap or shrink wrapped.

 

[tomcatpl]

here it is i did that did not like the pin pointing with the sef

 

[tomcatpl]

the 15" WOT pin poited better then the SEF

 

[powerwalker]

Thanks for that its Mutch appreciated
I was originally going to go with the 15" wot coil but read a couple of old posts by Kered on a British forum he said he had tried both and found the sef more stable
i got myself a sef so i'l try it out and see how it goes
thanks again and good luck Pete

 

[Critterhunter]

Use the tip or tail of the SEF to PP and it's laser like accurate. As for using the center of the coil, I've never read any complaints other than on Whites where the SEF will PP off to the side.

 

[powerwalker]

Thanks for all you re help guys
i now have the sef fitted to my excal
the guy that supplied the fittings also supplied me with 2 short lengths of shrink sleeve so Ive ordered some more so i can put a piece over the whole connection
if i ever want to change the coil its just a case of cutting off the shrink sleeve fitting the coil then putting another shrink sleeve on
and as i dont go in the water i dont see that happening too often
thanks again Pete

 

[davespen]

I've attached the most recent Matrix which I put together for the SEF, S-12 and WOT coils. If you decide to hard wire your coil to the board, contact me directly and I will be happy to provide some advice and guidance. I have all the boards on this matrix photographed and have performed the mod for every machine on the matrix so I can personally attest to its accuracy.

For all attempting this mod, be aware that it will void your warranty (don't recommend the mod for any machine with remaining warranty).

 

[tonyweston]

HI Dave , thanks for the offer of help regarding the Wot coil info ... I recently sent in one of my Excaliburs to Minelab Ireland for service and was told that the coil was faulty , I wanted them to replace the faulty coil with my 15" Wot coil but alas they declined because it was not a Minelab product ?? I still intend to go ahead with the mod to help me to hunt the vast beaches in Spain ( hopefully covering more ground per sweep ) so I will contact you for further details when I arrange things with my local tecky repair shop .
happy hunting Tony Weston

 

[w6pea]

Looks good. Nice work

 

[davespen]

Tony,

Be sure to ask if your local shop has completed coil replacements on Excals. Lots of little issues (too many to list) can cause significant problems post mod if not properly addressed...for example:
- be sure to tighten cable strain relief on coil (the coil strain relief on new SEF coils are notorious for being loose which allows water penetration into the coil and can the root cause of coil failure and water penetration via the coil cable into the control housing).
- be sure to correctly epoxy the new coil cable into the end of the housing. Minelab updated the procedure for sealing the end cap over time with each update being more effective than the previous as follows:
- Excal NY Sword - Silicone sealant (degrades/delaminates fm end cap over time in salt water causing water penetration into housing) I have seen incidents of salt deposits inside the housing end between the silicone potting and end cap indicating that failure was imminent...I recommend ALL Excal NY Swords be updated if used in salt water.
- Excal 800/1000 Blue decal - Early versions have silicone sealant as described above
- Mid release versions have coil cable and power cable zip tied with the cable epoxied into the housing. Outer cable covering still extended through epoxy in this version and in some cases acted as a conduit to allow water penetration via the inner cable into the housing when water penetrated cable via cracks in cable covering or coil housing...or coil strain relief was not properly secured.
- Later versions have the cable properly epoxied with the end of the cable covering embedded in the epoxy and the individual wires penetrating the epoxy.
- Excal II - Cable ends epoxied correctly (only individual wires penetrating epoxy).

Be sure to use white or clear "marine epoxy".... DO NOT use black epoxy. Many have Excal alkaline battery pods where Minelab used black epoxy to pot the cable pentration. Guess what, black epoxy heats up quickly in the sun and expands (coefficient of thermal expansion) due to the heat resulting in the clear outer molded end cap to crack (molded end cap does not absorb heat and does not expand at same rate as the black epoxy used to pot the wires)....

If your tech has not completed the mod, he can drop me a line and I'll be happy to provide some advice.

Regards,
Dave

 

[davespen]

Very nice splice job. Be sure to order marine grade heat shrink (adhesive lined) to get the water tight integrity you desire. Non-adhesive lined will "weep"...

Regards,
Dave

 

[Critterhunter]

Great info!

 

[davespen]

Tony,

Here's a quick reference for your WOT. I've done several Excal WOT mods and this has been verified.

Regards,
Dave

 

[OldBeechnut]

Very helpful diagrams Dave, well worth saving...thanks Joe/tim


Powerwalker..good post here on the shrink tubing..

Re: Shrink Wrap ?
[size=large]Posted by: biglry [ Send a Message ]
Date: November 14, 2010 04:44PM[/size] Registered: 3 years ago
Posts: 155

I first use the 1/8" 3:1 adhesive shrink tubing to cover all my solder connections
http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/3to1adhesive.htm#B
The 3:1 heat shrink tubing I use is sometimes called "dual-wall" shrink tubing, because it is actually made up of two different materials together. One wall - the outer wall - is Polyolefin heat shrink. The second wall (hence the name "dual wall") - the inner wall - is a hot melt adhesive.

When exposed to heat (usually a bit lower than the activation temperature of the heat shrink), the inner layer begins to flow (just like a hot melt glue). When the tubing shrinks and cools down, inner layer forms an adhesion layer between the tubing and the component or wire. This provides a water-tight seal, protecting the connector and/or wire. It also allows the tubing to stick to the substrate. This is why this tubing is also called adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.
Then I use the 3/8" heavy wall 3:1 shrink tubing with adhesive as my top wrap to cover all the splices.

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/3-1-heavy-wall-polyolefin.htm#B
Here is a link to go info on just about everything you would want to know about Heat Shrink Tubing

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/index.htm
I have never had any moisture intrusion or corrosion to any connection or splice that I have covered with this stuff.