Seems like there are a lot of coil covers still in use...

[Varmint!]

I tend to read here a LOT more than I post, and I keep seeing recommendations for those having issues (falsing, etc...) to remove the cover and clean it. That's all fine and good (obviously), but whatever happened to what might best be described as the "ultimate solution", that of covering the bottom surface with epoxy of one kind or another?

I had lots of falsing at one point and saw a brilliant post here better than two years ago or so, where the poster gave instructions and pics for his epoxy "solution" to the coil cover problem. I tried it, and am VERY happy with the results.

One word to the wise, PLEASE don't used JB-Weld for this application! The gray (mixed) color comes from actual steel particles in the black colored resin, a powerful magnet will show this to be true. I used something called PC-11 for the bottom of my coil, and so far as I can tell this was truely the nail in the coffin for covers. When it wears down (mine hasn't even come close yet) you level up the surface and apply another skin, good to go for who knows how long.

http://www.pcepoxy.com/pastepoxies/pastepc11.asp

When I applied mine, I stretched some saran wrap across a discarded piece of very flat step-tread (part time carpenter here) and slathered the bottom of the coil with about 0.075 inch thick layer, then used some toothpicks arranged radially (12, 4, and 8 o'clock) on top of the saran wrap at the very edges of where the coil would contact the saran, viola!, perfectly even, perfectly smooth protective layer as an integrated part of the coil, no covers forevermore, and no possibility of black sand ruining the party ever again.

So, my question is, has this approach lost favor over the timeframe in question? If so, why?

P.S. Thanks to the original inventor of this concept!

DAS

 

[Buddysox]

Hey, varmit! Sounds like a good solution. I always wondered why they always put coil covers on.I have the SEF 10x12 and want to get a 8x6, love the coils but they do have covers that a lot of crud gets in. I guess that people want them to look 'new" . I don't really care as long as it works. Your post sounds like an answer. Just one question, the edges of the coil after the epoxy dries. Should you put enough that the epoxy squishes out and then sand or somehow even it out? Is that even necessary? I believe that he edges should be smooth so as not to gather dirt or hang on something. The SEF has a lot of edges compared to a stock coil. I hunt a lot and cleaning under the coil cover is a constant thing for me. Thanks for the idea!

 

[Varmint!]

with a utility knife after it was pretty good and stiff, but not completely cured, then hit it with some sandpaper.

I'm not taking credit for the idea, all I've done is provide a refresher, and to wonder why it isn't totally mainstream by now.

DAS

 

[Magicman]

Reading this post I had a thought. Why not use some silicon? This way it keeps the crud out and water, but it can be peeled off to remove the cover if it needs to be replaced. IS there a reason not to do it?

 

[dewcon4414]

Wasnt epoxy one of the changes made from foam filled coils? If thats true why not just throw away the cover? Personally i dont mind cleaning my coil, it forces me to clean and check the entire detector. Id kind of like for mine to "look new" if i plan on resaleing it for an upgrade. It seems the new detectors are really getting up there in price now tradein helps offset that price and gives the dealers a machine that doesnt have a SET price. Please dont get me wrong not everyone uses a coil cover, its your equipment and i think your suggestion is a great one that really works.

Dew

 

[ellis]

good advice varmint.i'm tired of cleaning too.can you post pics? hh should now be happier hunting

 

[dewcon4414]

Hows that go... im not giving up my coil cover until they pry it from my cold dead fingers.

 

[treasurefiend]

LOL - I just removed my coil cover for the 1st time a few minutes ago and it was caked with dirt, & grass.... My SE has been acting screwy for a few months now but I just got use to it and I still find stuff but it was a constant barrage of wacky signals that killed my battery after about 10 hrs.

 

[fireball10x]

I Run a bead a bohning fletch tite around the seams of my coil covers works good and keeps my feathers on my arrows also.Good group varmint what caliber did you shoot that with?

 

[Varmint!]

it's all in the brass prep, charge weight, seating depth, and consistent primers.

Thanks!

DAS

 

[Ray-Mo.]

Their is a lot more to it than just top quality loading .I believe it also takes a good firearm and a practiced shooter.That is if the group pictured was at 100 Yds or more,Ray.

 

[DanRoss]

I just tried to post a message regarding the issue of electrical properties of epoxy and other glues. I am not going to go through it again, but you need to be really careful you don't ruin a good coil by using the wrong material.
When I posted, I got a message about a possible 'hack attempt' and it blew away my entire post. I guess I will have to compose in word and cut and paste to avoid this if it is common here.

I run the latest Norton programs and use a spamware filter program. I can't imaging what the 'possible hack attempt' could have been interpreted from.

If you are serious about putting glues with unknown electrical properties on your coils, PM me and I will re-write the caution. Dan.

 

[XT18000]

This is what I use on all my coil's: Mask off around the upper half of the coil with electrical tape first; this will give

a good clean edge with no other work to do. Use Loctite brand Marine Epoxy ( sets in 50 min type and is marked on

the tubes as such ) . Wipe the coil good with Alcohol to clean off any oil from your hand's so you get a good bond suffuse

for the Epoxy. Figure out where and how you are going to hold your coil so you can work on it and make it LEVEL before

you mix the Epoxy; it will also have to remain there untill the Epoxy hardens. This is very important ! After the Epoxy hardens

spray it with a coat of Truck bed coating ( I use Dupli - Color brand ) to cover the color of the Epoxy and makes the thing

look like it did before you started, this will also give you a way to keep track of wear on the coil as it will serve as a wear

surf ice . The thickness of the coating's will be fairly thin and not add any real weight but will protect the coil as well as any

coil cover with out dirt and sand getting under it. Mix the Epoxy well and spread it with a Popsicle stick or other that size.

After the Epoxy Set's up for about 20 / 30 min. pull off the tape: after an hour spray the Truck bed coating on; let dry 10 min.

and it's ready to do battle. Works like a charm !!!!!!

HH

XT

 

[Varmint!]

Accordingly, I'd like to thank you for a really useful and effective solution!

I decided against the second coat since some carriers (solvents) can affect the epoxy. Besides, if mine ever does wear down the original black will start to show through in places letting me know it's time.

Thank you again, and I hope you noticed I expressly tried to avoid taking credit for your idea, I just wanted to make sure it was still being discussed and under consideration.

DAS

 

[Varmint!]

n/t

 

[XT18000]

Lets me say here and now; I am not the originator of this idea; like other's ,I read it here but do not remember who posted
it. I just use the method and like I said it works very well. The truck bed coating justs makes the job look like a pro did it thats all.
HH

XT