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SE Pro Question :bouncy:
- Thread starter LS hunter
- Start date
Pastor bob
Member
Coil is waterproof. We don't have salt beaches in Nebraska so I don't know that one.
With the right settings the stock coil will go very deep. You have to listen for the high tone and go slow. Don't be afraid of high ferrous numbers either. I will dig anything 19 and above on the conductive as long as it is repeatable.
With the right settings the stock coil will go very deep. You have to listen for the high tone and go slow. Don't be afraid of high ferrous numbers either. I will dig anything 19 and above on the conductive as long as it is repeatable.
Can you use the stock Explorer XS coil on the SE and SE pro? I have heard that they are real good coils. I guess they are Double-D----are they not? Also, I have the ultimate 13" and it is a good quiet coil on the XS in which I pulled a 1806 1 real in a super junky area just the other day. Answers appreciated. I really like the Explorer XS. Thanks.....D......
JeffInMass
Member
Hello LS, I don't hunt in the water, so I can't answer that part of your question. I can say though, in my OWN experience, I had reasonable success with my SE Pro and stock coil, but I quickly switched to the SEF 10 x 12 and Ultimate 13" and I just passed 1000 old coins that I missed with the original setup- speaks for itself, at least to me. GL & HH!
-- Jeff --[size=large][/size]
-- Jeff --[size=large][/size]
Charles (Upstate NY)
Well-known member
This style coil both black and white will leak and salt water will ruin it.
This style coil should be avoided like the plague, a bunch of those coils in the early production run are outright defective. Its possible if someone has never used an Explorer before and they have one of these defective coils they may not know its defective, they may have had to dial their settings way back to stabilize it not knowing the coil is messed up. The coil wasn't the only thing that was defective some of the early machines were also defective. In my opinion unless you know the Explorer really well that whole machine is to be avoided. A later machine with the SE Pro style coil should be okay.
This is the coil you want its impervious to salt water, stable, and it loves gold and silver, especially small jewelry. On wet sand salt water beaches you have to sweep it just above the sand, if you touch the wet sand you will get a false, salt water is electrically conductive, touching a hunk of seaweed same result.
REMOVE THE COIL COVER when hunting wet salt water beaches. Some salt water and black sand between the coil and coil cover is a recipe for false signals. Take care not rub the coil on the wet sand, think sandpaper. They are pretty rugged I have multiple beach hunting seasons on mine and its still going strong but some beach sand is more abrasive than others. The sand on south NJ beaches is fine and well packed. NC sand dang it chews up the bottom of stainless steel golf clubs.
Out in the surf you may get a false when you first submerge it then it will be more stable but its not the best coil or machine for hunting in more than knee deep water, that's where the Excalibur remains king. Larger waves washing over the coil in the shallow water may also produce a false, the larger volume of salt water upsets the ground balance. I had no problem walking right along the edge of the surf hunting between waves or even up to 18 inches of water on calmer days. Most days it wasn't needed there's more wet sand beach at low tide in southern NJ that anyone could possibly hunt during one tide swing. On hot days when I wanted to go wade in the ocean I used the Excalibur.
This style coil should be avoided like the plague, a bunch of those coils in the early production run are outright defective. Its possible if someone has never used an Explorer before and they have one of these defective coils they may not know its defective, they may have had to dial their settings way back to stabilize it not knowing the coil is messed up. The coil wasn't the only thing that was defective some of the early machines were also defective. In my opinion unless you know the Explorer really well that whole machine is to be avoided. A later machine with the SE Pro style coil should be okay.
This is the coil you want its impervious to salt water, stable, and it loves gold and silver, especially small jewelry. On wet sand salt water beaches you have to sweep it just above the sand, if you touch the wet sand you will get a false, salt water is electrically conductive, touching a hunk of seaweed same result.
REMOVE THE COIL COVER when hunting wet salt water beaches. Some salt water and black sand between the coil and coil cover is a recipe for false signals. Take care not rub the coil on the wet sand, think sandpaper. They are pretty rugged I have multiple beach hunting seasons on mine and its still going strong but some beach sand is more abrasive than others. The sand on south NJ beaches is fine and well packed. NC sand dang it chews up the bottom of stainless steel golf clubs.
Out in the surf you may get a false when you first submerge it then it will be more stable but its not the best coil or machine for hunting in more than knee deep water, that's where the Excalibur remains king. Larger waves washing over the coil in the shallow water may also produce a false, the larger volume of salt water upsets the ground balance. I had no problem walking right along the edge of the surf hunting between waves or even up to 18 inches of water on calmer days. Most days it wasn't needed there's more wet sand beach at low tide in southern NJ that anyone could possibly hunt during one tide swing. On hot days when I wanted to go wade in the ocean I used the Excalibur.
JeffInMass
Member
Again, in MY experience, spot on pinpointing with both the SEF and Ultimate...
-- Jeff --[size=large][/size]
-- Jeff --[size=large][/size]
IDXMonster
Well-known member
LS-Remember....as I have always understood it and someone can back me up on this...the coil size and build characteristics are responsible for the depth potential of the machine at that particular time, it is seeing EVERYTHING in the ground that it can see with that particular coil,YOU cannot change this. What YOU are changing is what it reports to you,via processing,discrimination,sensitivity settings,etc. It sees 100%,you may tell it to tell you about only 10% of it through settings. If you want to see things stupid deep,you need a stupid big coil,generally,in good ground. In very mineralized or iron contaminated ground a coil of a lesser size may be able to tell you BETTER or MORE ACCURATELY down to ITS depth potential because the machine isn't fighting to process the signals of all the iron flakes or minerals,due to the coil "seeing" less ground. For example,a 10" coil may have the depth potential in good ground to penetrate to 12" and see a quarter. In bad ground it may be only able to tell you about that quarter at 7",if you turn the sens up any more there is a point of diminishing returns. However,an 8" coil may be able to tell you about the quarter at 8" in the bad ground,because it doesn't have as MANY minerals and rust flakes to deal with. ALSO,a larger coil is generally more susceptible to EMI(power lines,transformers,etc.). This is why so many people have so many coils. Two coils of the same size from different companies will perform differently,to some extent,sometimes to a large extent. You have to see what works in your hunting spots,conditions within FEET can and do vary greatly,though it's common to set it and forget it for an entire day. And definitely don't forget the "move on" thing....this also has to do with diminishing returns. If a site ain't giving it up,move along. If you only have 3 sites to hunt,lower the expectations and hunt for pride. I have a farm that whoops my ass 9 out of 10 times,but I still hunt it. It's to improve my skills mostly,anyone can dig change at 4" in clean ground,I'm not that guy. I want to eek out every keeper out of the junk and terrible conditions,the skills will serve me well later. Part of doing this is seeing what coil works the best in the nails,which one is better than others in big iron,which one is better by the road in can slaw,etc. What will work for YOU in the end must be determined by YOU. Get a sniper,a medium coil and a large coil and use the hell out of all of them. Time will show you how they work and why they work well in specific situations. if you're looking for silver in bad ground,good luck with a huge coil. If it's good ground with few targets,you have a good chance.
HH
Kevin
HH
Kevin
Man I couldn't have made it this detector without all you guys expertise..
Im finding some good stuff few silver..I have learned from one of my well hunted spots if it's 6 inches or more it's a weetie are silver, of course I go off the ID and tone.. I'm still using the stock pro coil....
Im finding some good stuff few silver..I have learned from one of my well hunted spots if it's 6 inches or more it's a weetie are silver, of course I go off the ID and tone.. I'm still using the stock pro coil....
IDXMonster
Well-known member
As for speeding up the recovery...you can go Menu/Options/Recovery and highlight "Fast". The downfall to that is...it shortens the audio response. One of the reasons a lot of experienced guys want to run with little to no disc is you get used to how the signals arrive and leave. If you're just hearing part of the signal due to it falling partially in the disced out part of the screen it's hard to determine what exactly you have under the coil. It's WAY easier to actually run NO disc and Normal response and SWING SLOWER so you're brain isn't trying to process all the signals. It WILL get overwhelming. I've been running Manual sens in the low 20s or as high as it will go and not go berserk-that's with the detector just sitting still. If there's EMI around it will show up with the machine not moving at all. Be sure to noise cancel on a clean spot of ground with the coil flat on the ground and not moving. If you're walking along detecting and it starts to chirp and sputter erratically don't be afraid to noise cancel again. There are many times I'll switch it into Auto Sens because it won't stabilize,but most of the time I switch to Auto because the ground is so mineralized it's just a nonstop circus going on that my head won't cope with.
After all that,I would stay with Normal for the response,you don't want to change primary settings because you need your ears to get tuned to what sounds like what. Changing settings sometimes changes what you've been trying to engraine in the brain,and that's just counter productive.
Good luck!
Kevin
After all that,I would stay with Normal for the response,you don't want to change primary settings because you need your ears to get tuned to what sounds like what. Changing settings sometimes changes what you've been trying to engraine in the brain,and that's just counter productive.
Good luck!
Kevin