A
Anonymous
Guest
From Minelab, mine had been secured with hotmelt inside the shaft and the two black rivets on the top of the shaft. The hotmelt did not stick well to the plastic parts and soon developed a wobble.
I took out the two black plastic rivits and cleaned the hotmelt out. I pre-drilled the sides of the shaft for additional rivits. Before inserting the end back into the shaft, I applied PVC pipe glue to both pieces, quickly put the two pieces together and put in the two existing and two additional plastic rivits. Now it's really sturdy.
The plastic of the lower end is thin and several of my relic hunting friends have snapped several of the ends off where they meet the shaft while out in the woods over time. You may want to consider buying the carbon fiber version for the Explorer II.
You can also modify the upper shaft buy cutting the top off at a 45 degree angle (clamp lever down) like the Explorer II. This gives you an extra 1" of the top shaft in the control housing and helps reduce the flex in this area of the machine.
HH
Jeff
I took out the two black plastic rivits and cleaned the hotmelt out. I pre-drilled the sides of the shaft for additional rivits. Before inserting the end back into the shaft, I applied PVC pipe glue to both pieces, quickly put the two pieces together and put in the two existing and two additional plastic rivits. Now it's really sturdy.
The plastic of the lower end is thin and several of my relic hunting friends have snapped several of the ends off where they meet the shaft while out in the woods over time. You may want to consider buying the carbon fiber version for the Explorer II.
You can also modify the upper shaft buy cutting the top off at a 45 degree angle (clamp lever down) like the Explorer II. This gives you an extra 1" of the top shaft in the control housing and helps reduce the flex in this area of the machine.
HH
Jeff