With ANY detector, settings used can be a generally accepted norm, or they can really be more of a personal choice based upon an individual's wants and needs, and even depending upon the searcher's patience level. I know a lot of people who would have little use for an
Iron Audio Volume adjustment because they don't like iron, of any type or size, and they set their Discrimination as high as it requires to just reject all iron targets at a site.
I don't because I like to FIND the good stuff, and in iron trash it is easily masked. Therefore, I like a lower Discrimination setting, and I seldom, very, very seldom, ever use more Discrimination than just barely enough to reject iron nails. I will hear the other iron present and, for me, I like the option to adjust the
Iron Audio Volume to reduce the loudness of the iron trash at a site. But remember, I intentionally look for old, desolate, iron littered locations to hunt. been doing it since '69 so it's kind of a 'built-in' mental approach to what I look for and how I set things up.
As for
Tone Break, you have to know the types of sites you plan to hunt, understand the anticipated targets you are looking for, and certainly know which search mode you choose to use and if it is a 2-Tone or 3-Tone mode. Be sure to know what the desired targets you're after are going to respond as,
if all is in your favor, with a proper Tone and Numeric TID response. Keep in mind, also, that changing search coils can result in a slightly different Target ID read-out for the very same target. It might just be 1 to 3 numbers different, but make sure you know what to expect from the detector AND coil you are using.
Oh, and remember that different detector models might have a
Tone Break adjustment, but have very different Target ID ranges for ferrous and non-ferrous targets. I have
Tone Break on my Makro Gold Racer, my Nokta FORS Relic, and my Makro Racer 2 but the detector's differ.
The Gold Racer TID range is '00' to '40' for ferrous and '41' to '99' for non-ferrous targets.
The FORS Relic TID range is '00' to '20' for ferrous and '21' to '99' for non-ferrous targets.
The Racer 2 TID range is '00 to '10 for ferrous and '11' to '99' for non-ferrous targets.
Obviously, if I was searching in a 2-Tone mode with each model, I would likely adjust the
Tone Break differently to accomplish the same results.
Back to
Iron Audio Volume for a moment. A lot of hobbyists don't know what it is and have little use because they reject iron.
More avid adventurers like to run a lower Discriminate level and hear the iron to know that it is present, that way they can listen for the broken good-target response that is being partially masked by the adjacent or near-by iron object. I know that's what I do and I like to know if a ferrous target is close to a potentially good target, however, after a while, in very dense, rapid-fire iron debris like nails, etc., it is a welcome relief to reduce the Volume of the iron trash to a more tolerable level.
Depending upon your hearing abilities and the headphones in use, you can select the
Iron Audio Volume level that is most fitting for your wants and needs. Mine is usually set at '02' or '03' depending upon the coil used and the site location, as well as the abundance of ferrous targets. Now, there is an exception you can try, and I use it when hunting with the
'OOR' or '5" DD coils in very dense iron, especially in and around places with a lot of broken up rusty tin. Tin, like those blasted bottle caps, can produce a good audio, but with the blended Low-Tone for iron also, is you work the coil's 'edge' area past the suspected ferrous trash.
When I am hunting most place with a lot of closely-spaced iron, I use an
Iron Audio Volume setting of '00' which is 'Off.' I might hunt some places with
IAV set at '00' maybe 75% of the time on an outing with those smaller coils. Why? Because I like to know there is ferrous trash close to a potentially good target.
If I reject iron nails I won't hear them, nor will I see any visual display indication I just swept over one. They are 'rejected.' However, when I keep my ID Filter rejection set low, like at '03' on the Racer 2, I still hear most nails and most other iron, and see the visual display response in the 'ferrous range.'
If I reduce the
IAV to '00' and sweep over a nail or other ferrous target [size=small]
(or anything that is below my Tone Break setting)[/size], I will no longer Hear it, but it hasn't been rejected, just silenced. The visual TID display will light up [size=small]
(I use a setting if '05' to turn on with a target response)[/size] and indicate a ferrous range numeric read-out, so when I get a so-so response, I can work the coil around that target and SEE if there is iron junk close by, and not have to listen to it when it is in abundance.
Just some thoughts.
Oh, here are a couple more. If you are just urban Coin Hunting then pick and choose what TID numbers interest you. If you hunt the places I prefer to find, then you will know that TID can be helpful at times, and is certainly interesting, but it does make it tough to sort out the desired targets. I grabbed the Racer 2 with small coil and checked the following targets from my 'Test Tube' and they gave the listed TID numeric read-outs. Targets were moved 'flat-to-the-coil' at a distance of 3" to 5" away. They are not in any specific order, which is kind of how we find stuff, anyway.
89/90 .. 1871 Seated Liberty Half-Dollar
84 .. Campbell & Gabbittas Trade Token, aluminum.
19/20 .. Gold Cuff Link
64 .. Sterling Silver Ear Ring [size=small](dangling type)[/size]
24/25 .. Suspender Suckle
27 .. 4-Holer Metal Button
20/21 .. 1865 .. 3¢ piece [size=small](nickel type)[/size]
31 .. 1937 Buffalo 5¢ [size=small](No, not 3-legged)[/size]
27 .. 14K Woman's Ring w/diamonds in a channel setting.
28 .. Woman's garment fastener
36 .. Suspender Buckle
43 .. 1858 Flying Eagle 1¢
63 .. Chinese Cash Coin [size=small](larger size)[/size]
59-68 .. An assortment of Indian Head, Early Wheat-Back and a 1992 Zinc 1¢.
67/68 .. 1836 Capped Bust Half-Dime
79/80 .. 1891 Seated Liberty 10¢
84 .. 1877 Seated Liberty 25¢
90 .. 1954 Washington Quarter
95/96 .. Franklin Half-Dollar
96 .. 1922 Peace Dollar
Yes, all of these were 'air tested' about 3" to 5" from the center-axis of the search coil, and all held flat-to-the-coil as if laying on top of the ground. Matter of fact, several of these I DID find on top of the ground, or partially exposed. Look at the two Silver Halves in
▬▬▬ or the two Silver Quarters in
▬▬▬ and the oldest Quarter was on top of some very muddy dirt in a renovation project in Hillsboro, Oregon. The oldest, 1877, silver Half was about 6" deep wthout any masking ferrous targets near it, in my favorite ghost town that started in 1869.
Targets of noble metals can read quite different due to the alloy mix in the metals used at that era. Another example are most Indian Head and early Wheat-Back 1¢ coins which are made of the same metal alloy mix as most of the good copper cents before the modern Zinc cent was started in 1981 and consisted of 95% copper. But early wheatie coins from 1909 to about 1920 usually/often have a TID that is lower, close to the modern Zinc 1¢ and so do most Indian Head's.
That's why I remind people that Target ID is only a tool. Too many good older targets out there that you might want to find, but they have read-outs that cover quite a broad range. An important topic to study and consider when you are going to try and adjust a
Tone Break on a detector model for the site you are searching and targets you hope to find. Changing coils can result in a slight difference of 1 to 3 numbers on the TID, up or down from what coil you had used before, and nearby masking target or really challenging ground can also have an impact on your results.
Again, just some thoughts.
That's why I usually don't like to supply TID read-outs or specific control settings when I see them asked about of Forums or even if asked in a meeting or gathering. If I knew the individual was going to look for targets like I want to find, and if the individual had the patience to deal with iron like I do, and if they was going to mimic my settings on the same detector and hunt the same way I do .... then that would be one thing, however .....
most people don't. I use settings I like that work for me, and I encourage anyone to learn their detector well, then use the settings that they feel will work for them.
Monte