Questions and concerns on new BHID-300

[glasartisan]

Hello fellow detectorist,Am real close to pulling the trigger on the new BHID-300.But need to know a few things from you experts.Im hearing conflicting reports that the BHID is known to false alot. Is this still true with the new larger coil?How is the detectors acuracy for tone and visual when the detector goes over rusted iron?Will you get a medium or high tone instead of the low tone?I will be using this machine only in fresh water. The rusty iron in our lakes concerns me as it does not disolve like it does in the salt environment.And at the same time if I am correct there is no traditional descrim dial on detector.I generally work off the beaten path in the water for copper and brass artifacts and not so much for jewelry.Lots of rusted iron. Do you guys have problems if you hit a spot with plenty of rusted iron that you cant tell what the machine is telling you.Maybe you get a red light yet the tone is high; it dont match? Or does Whites have a small amount of built in descrim to null out small nails? How about small brass targets, what kind of tone do these give off? Thanks guys;hopefully you can answer these concerns. Currently Im running the CZ-21 and the jury is still out on this one. thanks, Steve

 

[therover]

Glas,

It is interesting that the BHID does not have a discrim knob. But I think the tones ( in discrim ) always match the lights, so if you get a red/yellow hit, you will hear the low and mid tone as well ( others, correct me if I am wrong on this...I have not used a BHID but I am definitely considering one for the salt beaches).

Have you considered the other water machines like the Tiger Shark or Excal. The Tiger is supposed to be great in the fresh water and the Excal has iron nulling.

Having used ( and still do) a CZ6a, which is similar to the CZ21, I know you can turn up the discrim to not hear the iron tones. You may want to just keep using the 21 right now. It does have it's advantages. You can hunt in all metal when there are not a lot of targets, hunt in discrim 0 when there are lots of targets but little iron, hunt in discrim 1 when there is lots of iron. The only problem I see with my CZ6a is that if there is lots of iron, and you run the discrim at 1, sometimes the iron breaks through and gives a mid or high tone. I always hunt in 0 so I can hear the iron tones and make my own decision when the tones and meter bounces. But, if the iron does start to drive me crazy, I go to disrim 1.

I love my 6a, and sometimes when I beach hunt with it , want to find the gold, and don't have much time, I only dig the mid tones.

Good luck in your decision.

JC

 

[Beachcomber]

on the CZ6a......they did on the original CZ6 and CZ5. If so you will miss quite a few gold rings by digging mid-tones only...even when in a hurry since many gold rings read the same as a nickel. But if they moved the nickel down to give a mid tone on the CZ6a you would be fine forgetting about the high tones as only the largest of gold rings make it to the High tone.

HH

Beachcomber

 

[therover]

Nickels do give a high tone, but they are a separate ID on the meter....so, when I do get a high tone and it reads nickel, I do dig it.

What I was trying to elude to, was that for a quick gold hunt, you don't bother with the high tone coin signals. I forgot to mention that I do dig the high tone nickle since I have a meter.

With the CZ21, no meter, so you will miss some gold if you don't dig the high tones.

I bet that 99% of the time, when at the beach, I am there for the day. But there have been times when I have been skunked, and I have an hour left, and when I am in the mood, I just gold hunt and don't bother with the clad or possible silver.

JC