The 3 kHz coil isn't a magic fix for any of the items you mentioned. When you have a detector that bases it's TID on conductivity, my opinion is that when the conductivity range and approximate size of any target matches that of a coin, it will likely appear as a coin on your TID. But, let me elaborate on each of your questions.
First, the Beer caps that come in like a quarter here are a real pain. you have to dig them, specially when they are deep. They sound sooo good. How does the 3khz handle them? Is there any difference from the 7.5?
There are lots of variables on bottle caps. I have one old fair ground I hunt that includes some caps that I just can't ignore. I have come to the conclusion that they were either manufactured during War time and the metallic content is different than most others. Or, they are some sort of "home-brew" and not mass produced caps.
Regardless, they seem to have lots of surface rust but not much deterioration. In other words, they are round, the core is still solid, the outside has leeched into the ground and they have a metallic content that resembles a quarter. At least they fool ALL of my detectors into thinking they are quarters. All I have been able to do at this site is to take a depth reading and not dig the targets less than a couple inches. Actually, I can't do that!
I still dig them and find that anything less than two inches is one of those darn caps. The 3 kHz coils doesn't lock on to them as tight as the 7.5 coil. But still enough that it could be confused with a coin on edge.
Second, How much of the lower conductive items get ignored? Where I hunt as with you there is always a chance for a small Gold coin.
The lower conductive targets don't really get ignored. They still beep and they still register on the TID. In 4-tone, all metal, their low tone just isn't as predominate as it is with the higher frequencies. Nothing scientific to base this on.
Just my hearing. I swear I can hear a more abrupt start and stop on the tones with the 3 kHz. Not a smooth transition as I hear with the 7.5 or 18.75. I don't have a 2 1/2 $ gold piece, or a $1 gold piece to test with. But my $5, $10 and $10 gold pieces lock on hard. The 3 kHz coil may not be tuned to be as sensitive to small gold coins. But I don't think the minimal difference between 3kHz - 7.5kHz and 18.75 kHz is going to cause you to lose any gold coins with the 3kHz coils.
And third, How easy or hard is it to recognize big iron over silver or a Large cent. In a side by side scenario with the tone. In other words, is the iron a different type of high tone than the silver or Large??
For 35 years, I have been "avoiding" those nasty old large cents.
Since my part of the Country wasn't settled until the mid 1850's, all I find are those pesky IH cents.
But, I have found some large silver. The pieces of iron that are round (I call them horse rings, pic attached) are very difficult to differentiate from large silver when they are in the ground. Sizing with the Prospect mode doesn't help a lot on targets the size of some iron rings. A bit different story once they are exposed. But in the ground they come in at 44, 46 or 48. Flat pieces or odd shaped pieces are not such a problem. The ID may indicate a big piece of silver. But when it is a sizable target, I flip to Prospecting mode and get an idea of the size and shape. If the target is coin sized, I dig it. If it is long and narrow or HUGE, I leave it in the ground. Those I dig are usually either coins or more of those horse rings.
I have a theory on the round iron rings.... I dug an iffy signal when I was first testing the X-Terra. (wanted to see what everything was). It turned out to be half of a rusted horse ring. My theory is that, when a target is round and iron, it will be hard for any detector that bases the TID on conductivity, to tell them apart from coins. When it is broken, it can get a better idea of the composition. You can see a similar thing with gold jewelry. Rings whose bands are intact will read one way and those with broken bands will read much lower. You can prove this if you have a ring with a broken band. Read it with the band separated and you will get one reading. Hold the broken ends together and you will get a much higher reading. Same metallic content and same size and weight. The only difference is the complete circle of the round ring. Similar findings to what I have learned with those darn horse rings.
HH Randy