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Question for the experts....

A

Anonymous

Guest
I've only had the XS for 2 months. I love the thing. I've finally gotten the pinpoint nailed, have a good smartfind program set that works well for me. Finds are coming. I just recently found a barber dime (my first barber dime) that was a good 6-7 inches underground with some nearby junk, so I think I'm doing something right:)
For those of you who have used the machine a lot and really are tuned in with it, what setup do you prefer? I'm getting the impression that iron mask is a favorite for you folks. Would you confirm (or correct) that and why that's the case? Also, I don't find nickels. It seems every signal I dig in that zone is a darn pull tab and you know how many pull tabs fall in that zone! How can I improve that area?
Thanks and HH to all.
 
I use iron mask almost exclusively, set at -8 to -10 you shouldnt be getting tabs where nickels read.. maybe some tab tounges but not whole tabs.. nickels fall almost to the bottom of the screen, where tabs read off the bottom. in approximately same place left to right.. should get a solid lower tone on them as well...
 
Hey Jim,do you think targets fall in different spots on the screen due to soil conditions? my nickels fall where yours do but my tabs &tongues both fall above nickels,foil hits at or below the bottom on my detector.
just wandering, daniel s ga
 
First of all Congrats on finding your first barber dime <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)"> Finding firsts is always great fun, way to go!
Everybody has there own style of hunting and they usually set things up to fit their over all hunting environment and to fit what they want to find. If you want to find items that fall all over the Smartfind screen from thin white gold rings to silver halves then a fully open screen is the way to go. The factory preset coins program suits this perfectly for general hunting, but when you have the need to hear more then you have to open the accept up more --for example, if you're in an old site that has lots of iron and has been virtually cleaned out by previous detectorists then opening up an Iron Mask setting is the way to go, mainly because the only goodies left are the ones that are influenced by iron and cannot be heard unless you have the left side opened up. The sites I hunt usually have very different ground conditions, and sometimes I hunt for specific items. So for the way I hunt only sticking to one setting can be a disadvantage.
3 type of hunting strategies would call for different set ups, here are some possible scenarios.
: Hunting for silver dimes, quarters and halves....the park hasn't been cleaned out yet and is old, you absolutely only want to dig these specific items, and there's not any concentration of iron. Here you only need an open box in the upper right hand corner of the screen, anything else accepted would be defeating and excessive, using this set up would allow you to cover more area quickly.
: Hunting for all the high coins (dimes, w/i/m pennies, quarters, halves, 2ct pc, large cent) and all the lower nickels(war, buffalo, V, shield)....... Park is same as above, you don't want to dig much trash but are willing to dig some trash. Here you would need the open box upper right but big enough to also accept indians, and another separate open box for nickels big enough to accept the higher wars, middle buffalos, and lower V's and shields. This set up again allows you to cover more ground and also to concentrate on the specific coins. Note- you can also use the preset coin program for this situation, using accept boxes is really dependent on how trashy the site is, you will have to know the right ID's when using Digital and where they fall on the screen when using Smartfind.
: Hunting for all types of items that are not trash or iron........Park is same as above, you know your going to be digging trash because now your digging everything, ground coverage is not a factor because the amount of targets at the site will dictate that, and <I>you're not concerned about odd sounding targets because you're only going to dig the solid repeats.</I> Hear you will only need to use the preset coins program or if you want to add some of the small white gold ring ID's then go to Iron Mask (0)zero. Also, since your digging everything then whether you're in Digital or Smartfind really won't matter.
That's 3 situations where only using one set up everywhere can be a waist and unnecessary. But now lets look at <b>Iron Mask</b> a bit closer, Iron Mask can be considered a <b>"true Advanced mode,"</b> it allows for hunting where signals are not always cut and dry, for hunting in sites that have been pounded and virtually cleaned out, and for sites that have an over abundance of iron. At these type sites you need the ability to get signals that are in the wrong area --like an upper right corner coin that is pulled way over into the Iron Mask side--, these targets/coins cannot be found on the right side of the screen because of the iron. I also believe Iron Mask is the way to go for Beach hunting. Do you need Iron Mask for the first 3 previous situations? No. Could you use it all the time, and in the previous 3? Absolutely if you want to.
I use Iron Mask mode in home stead sites, plowed fields, and sites that may be close to cleaned out but still have the masked and influenced stuff left. At my old coins parks I use both the preset coins program and a couple different custom accept box patterns depending on the trash level. At my super trashy sites that also have tons of iron and has 40 items in every cubed foot of soil I will use a tight custom coins accept box and also search it using the complete opposite and run a low Iron Mask --it's nice to have the versitality. All and all I use probably 5 screen settings depending on site variables. I guess if I only hunted in one type of site or sites that were similar in amount of goodies left and trash/iron levels then I might only use one all the time, but at least for now I find using different accept/reject settings can be an advantage. In fact I have one site that I go to and only use Iron Mask and wouldn't even consider not using it there, while at another type site I only use a tight coins pattern(after cleaning it out some I probably will eventually start to open up the accept pattern.)
This is just my take on it and this doesn't give consideration to other areas ground conditions or what each individual really wants to find, it is in general from my experience.
GL/HH
 
Jim,
Around here the nickels read just about where the tabs do. Now Golddigger was saying something to Darrell about them spiking to the right butI hadn't noticed it. I am going to email him tonight to get him to respond. I have always gotten my share of nickels with the older ones reading closer to or actually touching the bottom. What I like about nickel signals in a park is that at least I'm going after a few ring signals and will occasionally nail one.
Good hunting... Guvner..
 
Hmmm almost all the nickels I get, the curser sets on the very bottom of the screen, occasionally jumping left or right.. what I dig alot of going for them are 22 shorts which also fall there but generally of the bottom... I guess the ground must affect readings.. or maybe I am passing nickels, although I generally dig all signals at my sites...there just isnt that many left to ignore <IMG SRC="/forums/images/frown.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":(">
 
First of all thanks for the great info in your reply. I appreciate it and I'm sure many others read and learn as well.
When I've hunted in Iron Mask, I look for repeat signals, solid repeats in 'the right location' on the smartfind screen. If I understand your post, the crosshair location is secondary to signal. So, if I get a 'good' signal, lets say a high tone, and the crosshairs wander around a bit, I should focus on the signal repeat, proximity of trash to the goodie and decide whether to dig based upon the tone and quality of the signal. I'm feeling a bit chagrined at the moment, because I've been a little confused about what Iron Mask is supposed to do for me. I've had plenty of signals where they ping in the 'goodie zone' and then the crosshairs jump way left which I interpret as 'junk'. Frankly I don't dig most of those. (You may laugh at me. I don't mind.) I should be digging those, right? I was on a 150 yr old yard this past weekend where I also had a couple of signals that jogged up and down the extreme right hand side of the screen, but never got to crown caps and didn't null out in Smartfind. I should have dug that puppy up too right? I know exactly where those are (6-8 inches down as well) so I can go back. (You know, now that I'm writing it, it seems dumb that I didn't dig 'em up. )
Well, such are the trials and tribulations of buying a sophisticated machine like the XS and trying to learn on the fly. I don't have a 'hunting buddy' and the dealer I bought the XS from didn't know a thing about it. He's a sovereign fanatic. :)
Thanks Again!
HH and GL.
 
Quality of signal tone is primary, Digital, and Smartfind curser location is secondary. Solid and repeatable signals are your easiest to connect an item, or items, to an ID, and are usually not iron junk but can still be trash items. Solid signal repeatables are most likely going to be a good dig but an important thing to realize is that the signals that are odd and affected by iron that turn out to be good are not the rule, they are the exception and you will probably dig many times more junk and iron than coins when you dig these Iron Mask iffies. But here's the thing, if your in a site like the one you've mentioned then digging everything is a must and once your done cherry picking for a while and your no longer finding any solid repeatables then Iron Mask should be used and you can start to dig the odd curser movement targets like the ones that sound good but shoot that curser over to the iron side, and the bobbling cursers. I always hunt for the easy ones first, every site I've ever hunted has always had some missed goodies that are easy pickins so I hunt for all those then work my way down to the more difficult ones. At the point where cut and dry signals are no longer being found is when you will find me using a fully opened accept pattern and see me digging the odd sounding iron iffies that are found many times in the Iron Mask range. Every piece of iron doesn't have a goodie hiding next to it and every good sounding signal that has bad curser movement isn't going to be a coin but when pickins are super thin and the site has an old history then even if you dig 50 iron/coin iffy signals just to find one coin that could be a large cent or bust then it was a good strategy.
Should you have dug those signals? If the finding of goodies had slowed down to where your no longer hitting anymore coins, buttons, rings, musket balls, or anything typical of that type of site then it probably wouldn't hurt to have dug those signals. Generally, when you listen to the signal it will have a certain percentage of nulling and good sounding tone to it, >50% null - 50% good tone 'Dig'< .....>75% null - 25% good tone 'walk away'< anything better than a 50% signal in favor of a good tone is a dig. I have different sites that each produce a certain amount of goodies, there are still enough solid repeatables at these sites that I can move from site to site and keep finding easy ones so I haven't had a real call for digging the iron iffies on a regular basis, but I have hit sites where I only had a few days to hunt them and I would go through all the phases from cherry picking to iron iffy digging. So, I have seen how the many different settings can be more of an advantage when used in stages, and of course in "specific site conditions' that it is worth having them as part of any hunting strategy --agian this is based on my general hunting environment.
You also mentioned 'crown caps', I think of how some items affect other items. There is 'averaging' which I believe is not the same as iron iffies , it is where two items close together will give an average signal, on the Explorer it could average conductivity and inductance which would really place the curser in a different location. If you had signals that didn't fall in a good area of the screen but fell between a good area and say the crown caps area then you may have an averaging situation and that would be a dig. On the othere hand you may find through experience that it is usully a junk target that happens to fall on that screen location, but this is only discovered by digging. As I mentioned in my last post Iron Mask is a true advanced mode, but iffy hunting whether in Iron Mask or not is advanced hunting so the more you dig the better you will become at digging the goodies within the iron and junk.
There really is a lot more to it than this with all the different hunting variables to consider but this should be good food for thought. Hope this helps a bit, just let me know if I can clarify any of this.
GL/HH
 
I'll be on my 150 year old place this weekend, weather permitting. You've provided plenty for me to think about as related the the XS. Based upon your comments, I'm SURE I've passed up some goodies. Like I noted, I've tended to not dig the 'iffies' too much and I think now I'll begin to pay more attention to them.
Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.
HH and GL.
 
Mitch, I want to thank you for taking the time to make these posts. I am new to metal detecting and just recently purchased my explorer and getting a lot from this forum. I am not sure that I fully understood everything that you said here, but it sounds like you are very experienced and definitely know what you are talking about. I will be reading this post many times to try and get a better understanding of what you are explaining here. Anyway, thanks for being so patient with us novices. Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
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