question about ID edge digital read out

[riverguy]

ID Edge Digital Readout

Is this normal?

I seem to be getting a lot of +28 to +30 readings to indicate coins but ended up being plow fragments or aluminum cans. I scanned these again with some other coins to see if my ID Edge (brand new) is performing correctly. It seems to be.

I set to all metal and ground balanced the unit and tested the trash that I dug up and some other test items. I tested both in the all metal mode and disc mode factory preset = FP and the disc set at +1 and sensitivity at 4.

Clad quarter +33
14k wedding band +8
10K mens college ring +19
Wheate Penny +28 to+29
Foil +12
Nickel +10
Zinc penny +21
Clad dime +29
Clad qtr +34
Silver Qtr +35

Aluminum Can squashed +29
Small potted meet can seems to be aluminum +30
Rusted Iron Plow fragment (tested with magnet) +31 to +35
Iron nail +15 with dit dit sound scanning lengthwise
Iron nail +28 single sound scanning 90 degrees length
Pop top round +9

The ID edge manual does not have a number for aluminum, so do these old cans come in like coins? They sound the same to me and indicate +29 making me think I have a dime or wheat penny.

Why does the rusted iron plow fragment come in +31 to +35? Does the fact that it does not lock in as a solid number with repeated scans indicate that it is not a coin?

I know these questions may have simple answers that most people know, but as a newbie, I don

 

[Keith Southern]

that is on of the reasons I run m y disc -36 unless you watch he meter constantly you will miss the - hits of the iron but if you open the disc up to accept iron you will hear it in the audio very easily.always be suspicious of +35/+36 hits and pay close attention to them. And yes your detector is acting perfect aluminum cans are a pretty high conductor.hit your pinpoint though and it will be super wide a coin will be a quick tight hit a dang can is huge in pinpoint.


The edge has a pretty good I'D system i can always tell a aluminum can is at +30 or +31.

A plow point is going to be anywhere from +31 to +35 moving alot with an occasional iron blip sliding in from a different angle of approach if you allow the -number in disc to be accepted.this is the way I recommend you to run the detector till you are fully aware of what it is telling you.

The detector is not lying to you it is reading conductivity of the target and big iron is very conductive as is aluminum cans and the other countless items that are out there that are not coins .one thing I will say is the edge is the best at locking onto coins and not jumping I've ever seen (and I'm not a big fan of target I'D') in a I'D' machine is it perfect no but its hard to sneek a coin or round object by it.these objects always lock on and dont jump around like the trash.It will lock on to good base metal's too like brass and stay pretty constant on the I'D'. Moving I'D' numbers are the first sign of trash especially if the target is large in pinpoint.

Now hunting relics its different if you get any kind of + hit I start digging and sometimes I dig some - hits that are close to zero they can be a co-located target being pulled down by target averaging.

But to start with till you get the hang of the detector accept iron so you can hear a bounce and get an idea whats going on under the coil.I know it will be noisy but it will pay off in the long run.And also check those targets out to be sure they're what you think they are like cans and tin (this stuff is awful hunt a area with tin in it. Tin will read everywhere) and big iron parts and such.

Once you learn what all the iron grunts are and the big iron that bounces +/- the sites will make more sense to you and help you establish a plan of attack.and and even what size coil to use on the site and how to use it.

I have to hear all that to know how to effectively hunt a site to get the utmost potential out of the site.

Theres more being masked than has ever been found I'm a firm believer in that theory.


Stay at it .Detecting takes time and you can read and read all you want and inquire but field experience and dedication will win out in the end. No 2 people hunt the same.


Just stay at it it will all come together

Good Luck

Keith Southern

 

[riverguy]

Thanks Keith,

This helps a lot and expands my knowledge. You or someone else here said that you need at least 25 hours of field experience before you truly get to know a particular detector. I am seeing that is true.
It has just been the last few hunts that I feel comfortable with the depth indicator on the ID edge when pinpointing. Yes it is an inverse relationship, but that doesn't take long to get used to and now it is second nature. It also took a few hunts to get used to changing the sensitivity to get rid of false signals. One thing i learned quickly was that folding shovels are not very useful. They not only fold, but bend. I purchased Lesche Model 88 Hercules shovel that I am in love with. You really can use the foot leverage to dig in the toughest clay and roots and stones. It is light so easy to carry in your non-swinging hand and a good defensive tool against almost any animal you may encounter. We have coyotes in our area along the river, but I don't think they would attack a man unless they were rabid which is when you would want a sword like tool.

I never thought about using pinpointing to outline the size of the item and I thought I was pretty smart. Maybe it is the heat and humidity here in Atlanta lately that is dulling my brain. July & August are hot times to be tramping around in the woods, but it is still good exercise and must be losing some weight from the amount of sweat dripping from my body. There sure is a lot they didn't say in the Fisher manual.

 

[deerman]

so the numbers and tone won't match up(I.E.low tone high numbers+35/36 low tone tells you iron but you might want to dig up some of them as people buryed things in iron pots
alot more then most people think,the pots rusted yes but lasted along time under ground posthole banks were common around the farms (farmer's cash buryed by/under a fence post
to keep it safe from robbery as the banks were not trusted by alot of people all the way up too1960 )so dig some of the iron up and throw it out at least its one more thing you won't find Again and again
plus it might be hidding a coin or two under it????

 

[Keith Southern]

I just grab the MXT for that its the best I've seen at digging iron relics like lock plates, and gun hammers, stirrups, and such it will hit those cast iron pots great also.Never dug a cache in my life but I might of left one somewhere along the way?

Thanks For the insight

Keith

 

[Cal_Cobra]

I just received my new ID Edge today, so I have zero hours on it, but I have a lot of hours on my Coinstrike which apparently has the same pinpoint setup. It's the most accurate pinpointing of any detector I've used, and is very easy to use to outline a target (great for vetting aluminan cans and to quickly figure out when a target isn't a coin). The depth readout is also very accurate, although seemingly a bit bizarre when you use it, but it makes sense after you get the hang of it.

I'm hoping to see a LOT of low digits in the depth readout