Procedure for changing CTX Coils

[fedderdavid]

Does anyone have an easy to follow step-by-step procedure for changing from the stock coil to the 6 inch coil? Including what to disconnect and reconnect concerning the coils so the 6 inch coil works properly as the stock coil did before being replaced with 6 inch coil.

 

[surfman]

That information is in the getting started guide. Pull the control box back. Unscrew the coil cable connection. Remove the lower shaft. Change coil. Follow the guide and you're good to go.

 

[nolanation]

Collapse the shaft before you unscrew the coil cable!

 

[AngelicStorm]

I have recently given thought of getting a couple of spare shafts to change the coils out easily. To me it seems there would be a lot less hassle and risks. I just need to find out where I can get a good deal on a couple for my 6" and 17" coils. Right lately I have been changing them out frequently because of changing locations a lot.

 

[foreign object]

I thought of getting a new ahaft for my 6" coil but it would only change one step. You either remove the coil from shaft and replace or remove the shaft with coil attached. Before i decided i tried removing the shaft and it is/was a pain to remove. Decided it was easier to remove the coil. 2nd time i changed i droped one of the inserts in the shaft. When i got home i removed the coil and pulled both of the inserts out and put a very little bit of silicone caulking on them and reinserted. No more problems. I also keep the extra supplied bolt and inserts with me.

My only real concern is the ears on the coils.Wish Minelab would make them a little thicker.

 

[GKMan]

The stinking shafts are crazy expensive... If one of us came up with a sturdy aftermarket shaft we would be making some good money

 

[Historical Prospector]

I don't have any problem changing coils without removing the lower shaft. Just give the coiled part of the coil cord a pull to extend it temporarily and it will fit fine.

 

[ML]

I have recently given thought of getting a couple of spare shafts to change the coils out easily. To me it seems there would be a lot less hassle and risks. I just need to find out where I can get a good deal on a couple for my 6" and 17" coils. Right lately I have been changing them out frequently because of changing locations a lot.

I'm guessing that you haven't looked at the price of those shafts. Beyond ridiculous.

 

[AngelicStorm]

Oh wow.... I could almost buy a brand new AT Pro for the price of two of those lower shafts. I agree with GK that someone needs to come up with some aftermarket ones.

 

[martygene]

Are you listening Ralph Sun-Ray???

 

[Ralph Sun Ray]

Martygene,

The idea of an aftermarket carbon fiber lower rod for the CTX 3030 was explored by a couple of others on this forum website a year ago an found after doing the research and what would be involved would not be cost reducing and the tremendous amount of material that would have to be purchased to make it even close to what costs are now, plus extrusion, would be way too much of an investment.

Also, using another type of material for the rod may not be a good idea because if there was any problem with any clamping OEM parts, the detector warranty could possibly be in jepardy.

Ralph (Sun Ray)

 

[martygene]

thanks for the info Ralph... I didn't know all that but thought I'd let you know in case there was a way for you do help us all out

 

[McClod]

I recently changed coils when I bought the 17 inch coil, and noticed that at the top part of the bottom rod where there is normally that piece that protrudes somewhat in order to make the lower rod lock in place by turning it when you first put the detector together or change out coils, that part is completely worn off and the top of the rod is kind of shredded, other than the extra step of taking off one coil to put on the next its fairly easy and don't take much time but I did like having the extra lower rod on my Garrett AT Pro, made it just that much easier.

I know at least one other person on here had the shredded lower rod tip problem before because they posted about it. If the replacement rods are so crazy expensive one would think that they at least would be able to stand up to day to day use.

I bought my CTX in November 2013 so its almost 6 months old. I collapse the detector to put it in my car and that's all. The material they are made from seems very sturdy but it shreds like fiber glass. I think I'm going to talk with Minelab about it. I sure would like to know why replacement costs are so overly expensive for a material that is not up to the task of lasting 6 months.

Sorry for writing all this since the OP asked a simple enough question and it was answered but it hit a nerve when talking about the costs yet mine probably didn't even make it to the 6 month mark, in fact I know it started feeling odd several months ago actually I think it wasn't even 3 months old before I noticed signs that the locking lug wasn't holding anymore and it could come apart on me. I should of posted a new topic I suppose.

 

[Mirlen]

Collapse rod, slide box out, unscrew cable, unscrew ears, remove. I find changing the coils on a CTX a lot more basic than something like my V3i even when I have dedicated lower shafts per coil...I like not having to deal with coiling the cable around the shaft...

 

[AngelicStorm]

Collapse rod, slide box out, unscrew cable, unscrew ears, remove. I find changing the coils on a CTX a lot more basic than something like my V3i even when I have dedicated lower shafts per coil...I like not having to deal with coiling the cable around the shaft...

That is correct, however if you tighten the screws properly you may notice over time the nuts and bolt start to bend. The coil ears also bend to a point to where it alarms me that if I continue changing coils in the way I have to in order to change certain sites, the coil ears may break at some point, which would mean expensive coil replacements or possible warranty voiding experiments to fix the problem. None of the above are good predicaments. All said, it would be nice to see the price lowered or an alternative.

 

[billwatson]

I have lower shafts for all three of my coils - I think it makes the coils a lot more pleasant to change.
considering the price of the 3030 and two extra coils, the two shafts add only 5% more to the total price.
at least thats how I talked myself into it.
but I think paying almost $300 for a WM10 is crazy

 

[Bell-Two]

There was a whole thread on this about best way to remove the lower shaft, CRHunter had a good post with pictures

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?86,1966223,1966247#msg-1966247

I would think a way to change coil without removing shaft could be done like this
Now I have not tried it but I think it should work.

Slide control box portion open
Compact shaft
Tie string around cable ends
Unscrew cable ends
Remove coil pins
Remove coil and pull cable out pulling string
Tie string end around other coil cables pull up and attach
Attach coil to shaft
Slide control box cover back.

 

[CopyTech99]

I have std size plastic caps that fit perfectly over the coils connectors, I keep them on when coils are off the machine. They also have a short length of thin red ribbon attached (through small hole in tip of cap) When installing different coils it makes it easy to get grip and pull connector through, then pop cap off and connect to machine. Works great.

 

[fedderdavid]

Thanks for the help. Working backwards is sometimes hard to visualize for me, but it makes complete since the way you have described the process. Plus I do not want to break a working detector because took it apart the wrong way when I changed it's coils from stock to 6".

 

[pghmole]

I always do a factory reset when I change coils, i do it at home and hook it up to the pc after the reset to get all my programs back, I swear it runs smoother