Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Primer for Beginners

daddyflea

Active member
I have metal detecting since sometime around 1975. I have used all kinds of detectors and really miss my Garrett Ground Hog with true Non Motion discrimination. These days Detectors are pretty equal and the upper end Detectors can be a little hard to use with all the Gadgets and Manual Controls. Whites V3i can be a real Bear to operate even if you completely understand all the Controls.

Etrac is very automatic and just plain works regardless of how you use the Advanced Settings. The only way you can really get in trouble is go to Manual Sensitivity and set it too high or use a Pattern that cuts out what you are hunting for.

We spend hours talking about Depth and Target ID at depth. In reality Etrac will ID deeper than you want to dig.

Problems start when you do not get the Magical FE of 12. All ground has a number of some sort and the deeper you get the more off that FE of 12 you see.

This is not a defect of the Etrac, it is the blending of Ferrous and the ground or that Nail laying next to a good coin. I have never been a fan of the Stock Coil or any coil that is round, except a Concentric. Fact is the more ground a coil sees, the more likely your ID will be off. This is why the norm now days is for Detectors to have DD Coils. They do better in poor ground as well as trashy areas. You see a lot of talk about this coil or that coil separating better.

The real truth is that unless the after Market or other coil is smaller it will not separate any better at all. Minelab uses a 11" coil as stock which means unless there is no trash within 11" of your good coin you will get an ID down to around 10" to 11" depending on your soil.

Our problems start in that we hunt old Houses that have Nails and small bits of Metal everywhere. Parks that have Pull Tabs, Foil, and assorted Metal Junk literally everywhere. The only place that we sometimes hunt that is relatively clean is open fields, and in honesty these are rarely clean themselves. Even in the Fields the chances of having a piece of Iron within 11" of a good target is pretty great. This means that most of your readings are going to be blended. Next we have the problem of Conductive numbers. Iron affects your FE numbers but that piece of Aluminum will also blend and affect your Conductive numbers.

This is why we have a big variance in the FE numbers 12 being Ideal or maybe 1. I set mine open from 1 all the way to FE 25. As far as Nickles, FE 12- and a Conductive of 13 is ideal. In reality Nickles hit from Conductive 11 all the way to 14. I cut out everything Conductive from 16 all the way to 30. Then Conductive all the way from 31 to 49. (Park Program modified)

If you want to try your luck on Rings leave FE open on the 10 to the 15 line. Conductive from 4 to 15. This will get you some of the smaller ones. From Conductive 15 to 31 you are going to find a lot of Rings, but you will also find all of the Pull Tabs.

I mentioned above that I do not like the Stock 11" coil. It is simply too big for almost all of the places I hunt. Don't get me wrong it still picks up every Signal but it does not correctly ID most of them due to its size. I do know that this Hobby is no fun at all unless you find something. If your targets are not IDed properly you are not getting a signal or you are trying to guess whether or not to dig it.

I get an awful lot of Nickles compared to most people because I am hunting with smaller coils. Some other brands have a hard time with Nickle ID and most people never buy an extra coil.

My advice is use the Park Program as a good pattern to start off with. Get a small coil. I use a Coiltek 10X5 and I noticed that NEL makes one essentially the same size. I think Minelab offers one about that size as well. Make sure it is a DD Coil to see less ground. Don't pay attention to Air Tests. They just don't mean a whole lot. Don't worry if you are only finding Coins in the 8" range because the extra separation of the smaller coil is more beneficial than the extra depth and the blended ID.

I like FAST ON, DEEP ON, High Trash, Tones Multi, Conductive, Normal Tones, and Gain at 30.

Run your Etrac like this with a smaller coil and see if your finds don't increase.
 
Great Post. I may have to get a smaller coil to get better separation (I knew I would hear more targets, but didn't really think about getting less blended id's).
 
Very good write up, but I will say that I know a lot of people that use the stock 11 inch pro coil which is a dd coil and find a lot of great targets. I know a guy on our local facebook page( Michigan metal detecting that found 341 silvers last season with the stock 11 inch coil and he hunts parks 90% of the time. I totally agree everyone should invest in a coil with a smaller footprint for trashy areas but I hunt a lot of old homes and find coins with the pro coil. I do love my 8x6 detech for the more trashy areas right next to the house where a lot of roofing nails are usually located.
 
pointer80 said:
Very good write up, but I will say that I know a lot of people that use the stock 11 inch pro coil which is a dd coil and find a lot of great targets. I know a guy on our local facebook page( Michigan metal detecting that found 341 silvers last season with the stock 11 inch coil and he hunts parks 90% of the time. I totally agree everyone should invest in a coil with a smaller footprint for trashy areas but I hunt a lot of old homes and find coins with the pro coil. I do love my 8x6 detech for the more trashy areas right next to the house where a lot of roofing nails are usually located.

This is one thing that leaves me a little torn. Every spot should be hunted twice. Once North and South and the other East and West. Do you hunt first with the small Coil or do you hunt with the large one?

I think small first to remove the shallow coins but I am not sure.
 
I usually hunt with one of my bigger coils first(I have the stock pro coil and a detech sef 10x12 also) and then I try to hunt with the smaller 8x6 coil. You are probably right in hunting with the smaller coil first to rid area of alot of shallow clad, junk, etc. My problem is having time to do that in northern Michigan with our weather and limited hunting season.
 
A very good narrative. My settings tend to be a little more open because I really enjoy hunting for tokens. In my state, they were made of many different metals and the variety of shapes and sizes makes it worth keeping the CO 15-34 area open. Plus I can't bear the thought of passing over a gold coin that I've notched out.
 
utmike said:
A very good narrative. My settings tend to be a little more open because I really enjoy hunting for tokens. In my state, they were made of many different metals and the variety of shapes and sizes makes it worth keeping the CO 15-34 area open. Plus I can't bear the thought of passing over a gold coin that I've notched out.

In my experience tokens hit higher than Zincs. I found a few that are labeled very rare in the Token catalog. Problem is I don't collect them and it seems nobody wants to buy them.

You are very correct in that cutting pull tabs cuts one type Gold Coin. It also cuts one type of Indian Penny. Not a problem here as I have never seen one of those Gold Coins or heard of anyone finding one. Not sure about the type Indian that hits there.

i got tired of digging yesterday and passed on a couple Screw Caps or were they Wheats?
 
Your comment about hunting different angles is so true. I received permission to hunt an ~1900 home Sunday and the yard is loaded with iron up near the house. I am currently hunting with my 11" coil in both conductive and TTF depending on conditions and yard location. When I rolled 90 degrees I picked up several more coins including 1935 and 1936 Wheaties.

Next I will go back with my 6x8 or 6" to see what I didn't see in my previous two visits. And work my way into the side and back yards.

Another example of the benefit of changing angles and coils is a yard I (along with several friends) have been hunting off and on for 4 years. It keeps on giving. At three years I went in and was able to find an 1883 "No Cents" V nickel and a buffalo. Last visit I took a friend with an F75 and he found a 1901 V and buffalo nickels (I was able to verify the nickels with my E-Trac before he dug them) and we both found a couple of Wheaties too.

I realize that I am long winded, but, if possible, I hunt almost every difficult place with multiple coils at multiple angles.
 
Tenspeed said:
Your comment about hunting different angles is so true. I received permission to hunt an ~1900 home Sunday and the yard is loaded with iron up near the house. I am currently hunting with my 11" coil in both conductive and TTF depending on conditions and yard location. When I rolled 90 degrees I picked up several more coins including 1935 and 1936 Wheaties.

Next I will go back with my 6x8 or 6" to see what I didn't see in my previous two visits. And work my way into the side and back yards.

Another example of the benefit of changing angles and coils is a yard I (along with several friends) have been hunting off and on for 4 years. It keeps on giving. At three years I went in and was able to find an 1883 "No Cents" V nickel and a buffalo. Last visit I took a friend with an F75 and he found a 1901 V and buffalo nickels (I was able to verify the nickels with my E-Trac before he dug them) and we both found a couple of Wheaties too.

I realize that I am long winded, but, if possible, I hunt almost every difficult place with multiple coils at multiple angles.

Your post above also proves another theory I have had through the years. I believe Coins move around in the ground. Think about it we hunt these places multiple times and eventually call it hunted out. We go back a year later and find coins that were not there to see previously. I believe tree roots, worms, moles, and rocks cause these coins to slowly tumble in the ground. This year that Coin may be at a 45 angle and hard to detect. Next year it may be flat and easy to detect.
 
I have also found that the ground freezing and thawing each year also will move coins deeper or closer after each winter.
 
utmike said:
A very good narrative. My settings tend to be a little more open because I really enjoy hunting for tokens. In my state, they were made of many different metals and the variety of shapes and sizes makes it worth keeping the CO 15-34 area open. Plus I can't bear the thought of passing over a gold coin that I've notched out.

I agree Mike, tokens show up ALL OVER the board depending on size, shape and metal and the length of time in the ground. As for coil preferences, I prefer hunting with the stock coil and will occasionally put on a smaller 6" if the area is REALLY trashy, but this is an exception. I don't use much discrimination either, and this works great for me in the places that I hunt. Having done this for a more than a few years, I have my own methods that work great for me. You mileage may vary.

As for freezing and thawing and coins sinking and moving up and down and sideways and worms and overgrowth and theories on coin signals being better or worse before or after lightning storms and rain and all of that. Those are great topics for another thread lest this one gets hijacked and becomes something other than a PRIMER for BEGINNERS.. :clapping:


Rich (Utah)
 
Rich (Utah) said:
utmike said:
A very good narrative. My settings tend to be a little more open because I really enjoy hunting for tokens. In my state, they were made of many different metals and the variety of shapes and sizes makes it worth keeping the CO 15-34 area open. Plus I can't bear the thought of passing over a gold coin that I've notched out.

I agree Mike, tokens show up ALL OVER the board depending on size, shape and metal and the length of time in the ground. As for coil preferences, I prefer hunting with the stock coil and will occasionally put on a smaller 6" if the area is REALLY trashy, but this is an exception. I don't use much discrimination either, and this works great for me in the places that I hunt. Having done this for a more than a few years, I have my own methods that work great for me. You mileage may vary.

As for freezing and thawing and coins sinking and moving up and down and sideways and worms and overgrowth and theories on coin signals being better or worse before or after lightning storms and rain and all of that. Those are great topics for another thread lest this one gets hijacked and becomes something other than a PRIMER for BEGINNERS.. :clapping:


Rich (Utah)
Great response, Rich!:thumbup:

Iowa Dale
 
One other point I wanted to make. The moisture in the ground makes a big difference in your Depth. I find that if I can cut a good plug, I get excellent Depth. Today I was using my Coiltek 12X8 which normally gets fairly decent depth. I could not cut a plug. The ground was so dry the ground just fell away. I got a maximum of 7" depth and usually my small 10X5 gets that much depth.

The other thing is Trash crawls around in the ground. If you are having trouble pin pointing and nearly all your targets are trash this is normal. Screw Caps will project an image to one side for sure when crushed.

The Joys of Metal detecting.

Todays finds

1-Old Pocket Watch
1-Large Token that was hit with my Digger and a Lawn Mower
5-Zinc Pennies
2-Clad Dimes
1-Memorial Penny
1-1944 Wheat
1-Military Button

Not bad for about two hours hunting in a Vacant Lot. Especially when the Owner said it was never anything but a Vacant Lot.









 
Top