Critterhunter
New member
Neil said:Critterhunter said:Yea, my 10" I just did with 3 or 4 coats looks like that's the factory bottom to it, even better I think. It's got the perfect texture/color. I used Rustoleum's spray on bed liner from Home Depot or Lowes. Before I used it I sprayed 6 or 7 coats onto a newspaper and then swung my coil over that after it dried in All Metal to be darn sure there was no kind of metal or minerals in the paint that might cause the detector to react in any way, possibly lowering performance. Nothing was present but if you aren't using the Rustoleum I used then I'd do the test again. Some paints have zinc or other minerals/metals in them to retard rust.
Just taped up my 15x12 coil today and gave it it's first coat. Plan to give it 3 or 4 coats about two hours apart in the sun, then let it sit a whole day in the sun to insure a good cure. Even still, when it's sitting somewhere or on the coil for the next 4 or 5 days I'd play it safe and not put it flat on anything. Keep it flipped upside down until you know it's super hard.
I read everything I could find on using spray on liner in the beach forum and everybody pretty much said no need to sand or scuff up the coil bottom/sides. Only thing I did was wipe the coil down with a paper towel to get any finger oils off it after taping it up with painter's tape. If you want to be particular about it then head up to the Auto parts store and pick up one of those tacky body towels (they have a sticky residue in them) that are meant for wiping down a car body before painting. They are only like a buck or two and will do a good job of removing oils/dust on surfaces. The coil bottom being epoxy and the sides of the coil being a poress surface really gives a good bond to the spray on liner without the need to sand or scuff from what I've read. If you do decide to sand the thing then be very careful to remove all remnants of the sandpaper grit. A lot of sandpapers contain metallic grit and not sand. I wouldn't want any of those particulars trapped in scuffs on the coil myself.
Some in the beach forum are using Epoxy. It's harder to work with, more prone to chipping, and if you don't get the mixture just right it will stay a bit soft. Also, it weighs much more than spray on liner. 3 or 4 coats of this stuff and you are only talking grams of weight here.
I mainly did this spray on liner thing to save a bit more weight on my coils, but not having to remove and clean coil covers is a big bonus as well. Also, down the road if you want to sell the coil either throw the coil cover back on or give it a like mist of liner again. It looks as good or better than the factory. While you're at it back off the coil nut and then put some Shoe Goo around the threads and top inside the boot where the wires come out, then hand tighten it back down. Once done I gave mine just a quarter turn more with a wrench. That will insure no way for water to possibly enter the coil.
I will make sure and pass this on to the other painters I work with. I guess all the prep time weve been putting in for epoxies, stains and paints has been for naught. I think I should contact the people who do the beds of trucks also, all that sanding isnt necessary there either.
I dont know why you always insist on your ways as being the only ways when we should all be putting up info that is indeed true and best for all and based as much on possible on experience.
Well, I guess Ive got to go scrape my coils clean and track down some rustoleum bedliner that YOU have tested and CERTIFIED as the product to use and apply it to my coils.
Ease up a bit will you, there are others out here who do know what they are doing.
Whoa there partner. Don't believe I was inisting on anything and also don't claim to be an expert. What I was trying to relay is what *I* have read from others and nothing more. You are probably the first I've seen say that it's important to sand the coil as far as I can remember. When I looked into this a few months back I did a search in all the forums on here including the beach forum, on the net, and at other sites. As you probably know by now I like to gather as much information as possibly on a subject (printed out a stack about an inch thick) and then read over the expert advice of others to base my decisions on when it comes to a subject I have little or no personal experience with. Yes, I before I read all that material I would have assumed to that it would be very important to sand the coil as that's typical for just about any type of painting. However, everything I can remember reading where this was asked specifically said there was no need to do this due to the type of surface the coil already has. They said just wipe it down with a towel to remove any dust/dirt/finger oils.
I happen to have some experience in spray on bed liners, including Rhino linings which are about the best there is. One of my former customers to my business did this for a living and many a time I've watched and talked with him as he did a truck. The reason why the bed is sanded is because it's a shiny painted surface with clear coat and probably wax, which wouldn't allow the bed liner to stick well. Regardless, he still didn't even sand the entire bed. I asked him about that and he said it would take hours, and that it wasn't really needed. He just needed to scuff enough of the bed here and there to allow the bed liner to grab in spots to insure it wouldn't flake off. They used an angle grinder to do this and in no way even got close to sanding the entire bed, or even doing it uniformly over the spots they did do. Now, before somebody says that it would fail in a year or two and he's just trying to save time and money...This is a nation wide chain of auto detailers. Had my last truck bed done there and they guarantee it against pealing of flaking. Since he owns the store I doubt he'd cut corners if he had to re-spray the liner for free down the road.
If you feel the need to sand it then knock yourself out. I would have too had I not done the research so that saved me the labor. It's also less hassle having to make sure it's sanding where the spray on liner will go and not where no paint will be, which would degrade the looks a bit. I'm only trying to pass along the sum of what I've read so that people can make their own judgements where to go from there. Nothing more, and I'm sorry if my attempt to pass along the details was taken as a slight towards you. Wasn't intended that way. In fact, you can dig up some threads from me months ago both here, in the mods forum, and in the beach forum saying the same thing about the sanding. Just because you just now posted that you feel the need to sand doesn't change what I've been saying IMHO all along. If you look at it that way then you're the one who's trying to step on my toes.
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As far as the Rustoleum being "certified" by me goes, is there any real call for saying something like that? In my area I could not find any of the spray on liners that were talked about in the beach forum and on other sites. I think I only saw one guy using Rustoleum and I don't think he mentioned if he tried the "spray on newspaper" test, which others were doing by the way. That's where I got the idea, because a few others mentioned they didn't trust the stuff unless they tested it with their detector. See, nothing more mysterious than that, and I doubt anybody had any other motives involved in slighting people when they came up with that, nor did I. Why would I even think that? Hope you don't either. I just would hate to see somebody use a brand that hasn't been tested and find out that they now have one giant zinc signal under the coil. That would ruin anybody's day.
If you guys do some searching in the beach forum you'll find some guys are using that plastic/rubber type tool coating material that Home Depot/Lowes sells. It's a bit heavier but the advantage to that is it comes in like yellows and reds, which looks pretty cool. Also makes it easier to flip the coil over and see if it's wearing off and time for a new coat. Some guys do the top of the coil in it so they can see it in the water easier. Others spray the top of the coil with Rain X so sand/water/mud sheet off the coil and it looks brand new when hunting in the water or rain.