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Pickup truck Bed spray for coil,,,thank you

Finderskeeper

Active member
Just want to say thanks to all for the info on the pickup truck bed spray idea for the coil on my Excalibur II 1000.

It is so nice not to have to constantly clean out the sand and dirt out of the coil cover. No more falsing due to all that dirt and junk that seems to find its way into the coil cover. I hated cleaning the coil of sand and dirt.....but no more!

So far the spray has held up well and even when hitting rocks and such, that spray is really tough and it still looks as good as the day I put it on.

By the way, it is best to allow it to dry for at least a day before using it. I found that any sooner and it will be tacky. I made the mistake of thinking it was dry and placed the detector and coil in an upright position in the bedroom on the carpet and it stuck to the carpet. The coil had a bunch of fuzzies stuck to it and it left a mark on the carpet. So beware.
 
I know we're all a bunch of detector sickies. But you keep your detector in your BEDROOM?:twodetecting:
 
Of course!

How else do I get to really know my detector. Seriously, I often sit and listen to air testing to make sure I stay sharp to know my signals. Plus having it there makes me see it and makes me want to go out and detect.
 
Yea, I just did my 10" Tornado coil for my GT. I used Rustoleum spray on bed liner and did about 4 light coats spaced about two or three hours apart sitting in the sun. After that I let it harden up for a good day still sitting in the sun. Make sure it cures up well before use or it will still be a little soft and might scratch or scuff off easy. I did this about a week ago and just checked the bottom of the coil after about 3 hunts in the woods, on an old gravel foot path, and in grass. Looks fine with not even so much as a scratch, and I was bumping acrossed the tops of rocks and such so I'm very happy! My custom lightweight GT with the added weight savings of no coil cover has the thing feeling lighter than my friend's 6000 Pro XL. My GT is as user friendly and light now as any detector I've ever owned, except for Tesoros, but nothing is lighter than those things. I'm in the process of using painters tape (blue) on my 15x12 SEF coil right now to prep it for painting with the stuff. I like having the coating cover up the sides to about where the stock coil cover would have been. That's going to drop 3.6oz from the SEF coil, matching the weight of the 10" Tornado with coil cover still on. I think you save like 2.5oz by ditching the cover on the 10" coil. While these weights don't sound like much you have to remember that they are way out there at the tip of the shaft where you really feel it. Leverage is everything, and I'm trying to save every little bit of weight on my GT anyway. About the only thing I could do now to drop more weight is to shorten the coil and meter cables and perhaps replace my custom upper aluminum shaft with a carbon fiber one.

There's no prepping to spray a coil other than taping up the top with painter's tape to prevent overspray and wiping down the coil with a rag. No need to sand or scuff the surface. The other neat thing is on the bottom of both my 10" and SEF coils from the factory they have a real glossy epoxy, so when the flat/dull spray on bed liner wears through down the road it'll be real easy to see that it's ready for another coat by the glossy stock coil bottom starting to show through.

I did my friend's Excalibur 8" BBS coil with the stuff. On his he had splits in the coil because he wasn't using a coil cover. I filled those with Shoe Goo and push it in to insure a good seal, then put about 8 or 10 coats on it with the spray on bed liner because I wanted to be real sure it was sealed and would also hold up to his water hunting abuse. He made it out for the first time the other day and I'm happy to say he had no problems with it or his Excalibur, which I had reconditioned for him in various ways to insure no leaking.
 
Say good-bye to coil covers. I sprayed all my coils and the aluminum shaft on my scoop. The trick is to let it cure and get hard before use. Coil covers were a pain. And if I want to sell a coil a little spritz and the coil is brand new again.
 
Just a note on this, its always best to prep any surface before painting. A light sanding on the epoxied bottom and up a little on the edges where you plan on spraying followed up with a good wipe down of some isopropyl alcohol to remove any surface oils(they are there whether you can feel them or not) will give you the best adhesion.

I did coils over a year ago and they still have no chips or gouges, the liner spray is very durable.

its good for a lot of stuff, under vehicles, protecting other parts of detecting stuff, use your imagination:thumbup:
 
goodmore said:
Say good-bye to coil covers. I sprayed all my coils and the aluminum shaft on my scoop. The trick is to let it cure and get hard before use. Coil covers were a pain. And if I want to sell a coil a little spritz and the coil is brand new again.
Thanks for the tip on the aluminum handle on the scoop.

I always get that aluminum stain on my wet suit and it is hard to remove. I just sprayed my handle and I bet it will not slip off my shoulder or stain my wet suit any more!
 
n/t
 
I don't have the can anymore. But I bought it at PEP Boys. Real easy to work with. A whole bunch easier than paint to use. You don't have to be a master painter to spray this stuff.
 
me too, from pep boys. Im gonna guess dupli color but that might not be it. I will look in my shed and see, think I still have a can of it.
 
not sure which is the best to buy since Ive only used this one but this ones a good one. once our humidity drops Im gonna do a few more coils I bought this spring. I think these are about $7 a can at pep boys.
 
Be sure to mask off the rest of the coil so you get a neat job. The S-8 coils I did look terrific, like they could have come that way from the factory! No more coil covers for me.
 
Yea, my 10" I just did with 3 or 4 coats looks like that's the factory bottom to it, even better I think. It's got the perfect texture/color. I used Rustoleum's spray on bed liner from Home Depot or Lowes. Before I used it I sprayed 6 or 7 coats onto a newspaper and then swung my coil over that after it dried in All Metal to be darn sure there was no kind of metal or minerals in the paint that might cause the detector to react in any way, possibly lowering performance. Nothing was present but if you aren't using the Rustoleum I used then I'd do the test again. Some paints have zinc or other minerals/metals in them to retard rust.

Just taped up my 15x12 coil today and gave it it's first coat. Plan to give it 3 or 4 coats about two hours apart in the sun, then let it sit a whole day in the sun to insure a good cure. Even still, when it's sitting somewhere or on the coil for the next 4 or 5 days I'd play it safe and not put it flat on anything. Keep it flipped upside down until you know it's super hard.

I read everything I could find on using spray on liner in the beach forum and everybody pretty much said no need to sand or scuff up the coil bottom/sides. Only thing I did was wipe the coil down with a paper towel to get any finger oils off it after taping it up with painter's tape. If you want to be particular about it then head up to the Auto parts store and pick up one of those tacky body towels (they have a sticky residue in them) that are meant for wiping down a car body before painting. They are only like a buck or two and will do a good job of removing oils/dust on surfaces. The coil bottom being epoxy and the sides of the coil being a poress surface really gives a good bond to the spray on liner without the need to sand or scuff from what I've read. If you do decide to sand the thing then be very careful to remove all remnants of the sandpaper grit. A lot of sandpapers contain metallic grit and not sand. I wouldn't want any of those particulars trapped in scuffs on the coil myself.

Some in the beach forum are using Epoxy. It's harder to work with, more prone to chipping, and if you don't get the mixture just right it will stay a bit soft. Also, it weighs much more than spray on liner. 3 or 4 coats of this stuff and you are only talking grams of weight here.

I mainly did this spray on liner thing to save a bit more weight on my coils, but not having to remove and clean coil covers is a big bonus as well. Also, down the road if you want to sell the coil either throw the coil cover back on or give it a like mist of liner again. It looks as good or better than the factory. While you're at it back off the coil nut and then put some Shoe Goo around the threads and top inside the boot where the wires come out, then hand tighten it back down. Once done I gave mine just a quarter turn more with a wrench. That will insure no way for water to possibly enter the coil.
 
Critterhunter said:
Yea, my 10" I just did with 3 or 4 coats looks like that's the factory bottom to it, even better I think. It's got the perfect texture/color. I used Rustoleum's spray on bed liner from Home Depot or Lowes. Before I used it I sprayed 6 or 7 coats onto a newspaper and then swung my coil over that after it dried in All Metal to be darn sure there was no kind of metal or minerals in the paint that might cause the detector to react in any way, possibly lowering performance. Nothing was present but if you aren't using the Rustoleum I used then I'd do the test again. Some paints have zinc or other minerals/metals in them to retard rust.

Just taped up my 15x12 coil today and gave it it's first coat. Plan to give it 3 or 4 coats about two hours apart in the sun, then let it sit a whole day in the sun to insure a good cure. Even still, when it's sitting somewhere or on the coil for the next 4 or 5 days I'd play it safe and not put it flat on anything. Keep it flipped upside down until you know it's super hard.

I read everything I could find on using spray on liner in the beach forum and everybody pretty much said no need to sand or scuff up the coil bottom/sides. Only thing I did was wipe the coil down with a paper towel to get any finger oils off it after taping it up with painter's tape. If you want to be particular about it then head up to the Auto parts store and pick up one of those tacky body towels (they have a sticky residue in them) that are meant for wiping down a car body before painting. They are only like a buck or two and will do a good job of removing oils/dust on surfaces. The coil bottom being epoxy and the sides of the coil being a poress surface really gives a good bond to the spray on liner without the need to sand or scuff from what I've read. If you do decide to sand the thing then be very careful to remove all remnants of the sandpaper grit. A lot of sandpapers contain metallic grit and not sand. I wouldn't want any of those particulars trapped in scuffs on the coil myself.

Some in the beach forum are using Epoxy. It's harder to work with, more prone to chipping, and if you don't get the mixture just right it will stay a bit soft. Also, it weighs much more than spray on liner. 3 or 4 coats of this stuff and you are only talking grams of weight here.

I mainly did this spray on liner thing to save a bit more weight on my coils, but not having to remove and clean coil covers is a big bonus as well. Also, down the road if you want to sell the coil either throw the coil cover back on or give it a like mist of liner again. It looks as good or better than the factory. While you're at it back off the coil nut and then put some Shoe Goo around the threads and top inside the boot where the wires come out, then hand tighten it back down. Once done I gave mine just a quarter turn more with a wrench. That will insure no way for water to possibly enter the coil.

I will make sure and pass this on to the other painters I work with. I guess all the prep time weve been putting in for epoxies, stains and paints has been for naught. I think I should contact the people who do the beds of trucks also, all that sanding isnt necessary there either.

I dont know why you always insist on your ways as being the only ways when we should all be putting up info that is indeed true and best for all and based as much on possible on experience.

Well, I guess Ive got to go scrape my coils clean and track down some rustoleum bedliner that YOU have tested and CERTIFIED as the product to use and apply it to my coils.

Ease up a bit will you, there are others out here who do know what they are doing.
 
Wow Neil, sounds like someone got out of the wrong side of the bed this morning, i don't read any " insistance in the only way to do it" in the message, read it 3 times to make sure, more like recopulation of other users tecniques and ideas compiled into one.

cheers Critterhunter, will give it a go as soon as i can find the damn stuff this side of the pond, pickups aren't that popular over here so it may be a task to find it, i like the scoop handle idea too, was gona try Japanese heat shrink that they use on fishing rod butts but the bedliner sounds a better idea.
 
kered said:
Wow Neil, sounds like someone got out of the wrong side of the bed this morning, i don't read any " insistance in the only way to do it" in the message, read it 3 times to make sure, more like recopulation of other users tecniques and ideas compiled into one.

cheers Critterhunter, will give it a go as soon as i can find the damn stuff this side of the pond, pickups aren't that popular over here so it may be a task to find it, i like the scoop handle idea too, was gona try Japanese heat shrink that they use on fishing rod butts but the bedliner sounds a better idea.

you would have to read the entire thread kered to see where Im coming from. I added sound advice to this thread based on experience. yes indeed, a harsh reply but theres been alot of "poser posts" by this guy and its a shame theyve lead to the belief he has the experience he trys to convey. sorry if I offended you or anyone else who reads this. clearly experience is taking a back seat to bull here at times.
 
No offence Neil, i was just a bit taken aback with the obruptness, I have been following the topic from begining, i don't always agree with a lot of opinions but he has been a great help to me on the battery isues, i read all, try it and make my own decision, hope things cool down, some people when writing come across not as intended at times:buds:
 
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