F75 owners who previously owned the F70. Does the F75 do better at screening pennies out than the F70? I know no machine is perfect and there always is the element of surprise with all machines due to depth, soil conditions, tuning, etc. On my F70, Pennies, depending on their depth id as dimes and quarters -and even when I use the tone setting that
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Penny ID Reliability, F70 versus F75
- Thread starter osgood
- Start date
I hate to tell you this but a copper penny and a clad dime will give almost identical VDI numbers on any detector I've used. I doubt a F75 will be any different than the F70. If you find a detector that will accurately tell a copper penny from a clad dime, please post what detector it is as there are a lot of us that would be interested in buying one. All my Minelabs, Fishers, Whites, Technetics, Garretts and Tesoros will ID them with the same numbers.
BuckeyeBrad
New member
you are aware of the conductive difference between pre and post 1982 pennies, right?
I've only owned 4 different TID machines..... and none of them can really distinguish btwn the copper penny and the dime....... zinc pennies are a little easier to differentiate, but still gets iffy. My F75 will still set the copper penny and the dime in the same TID range....... but, I'm a relic hunter..... and just dig the occasional coin. Except when I'm wading the swimmin holes on the streams around here.... with my Detector Pro Pirate...... non TID.
BuckeyeBrad
New member
I read and re-read his post several times and I didn't see where he specifically differentiated the two types of pennies so that's why I thought it might be a possibility.
Thanks folks for your input. Well, I know there where penny composition changes in the last 40 years or so- My question and or request again is hopefully for previous F70 owners who have gone to the F75- to share their perceptions in the accuracy when Id ing pennies between the two models. Is the F75 any more refined in this capacity than the F70- do you sense the step up between the 2 models includes a step up in that department . -do you notice any performance improvement between the two in that respect? Is there less of this crossover in Id numbers with the 75 as opposed to the 70? Either all copper, or "zincs" Maybe this wasnt a problem for most 70 owners and just mine- who knows. Thanks again, CO
Okeee--Let's all step back, take a deep breath & start again.---True, there has been composition changes over the years--but as I understand it, you are inquireing about the "copper to zinc" change.----The change-over year was 1982 from the so called copper to zinc (both types were minted in the year 1982).--I won't go into the actual composition "ingredients" (unless you want me to).-----Now, IF your question is: does the 75 tonal & numerical I.D. the "zinc" pennies better than the 70----and does the 75 tonal & numerical I.D. the "cooper pennies better than the 70---I'd say no, they are about the same in THAT regard and I have owned & used both.----Just remember that you knock out zinc pennies & your IH's are history (gone) to.----Also, there is "nil" spread between copper pennies & clad dimes.----I THINK this is what you are asking----kinda! 
------Del
------Del- - is generally a lead pipe cinch. I don't see them hitting in the quarter range, at least not with consistency. So, that has never been a problem.
I swing an F70.
Copper cents come in around the same as dimes, sometimes a few points lower.
Zinc cents usually come in around 5-8 points below copper.
The deeper they are, the lower they will hit on the scale.
But with all the variables you yourself acknowledge, about all you can say is, "Oh look, a hit in the cent range."
There are no absolutes. And I'm willing to bet this is the same for the F75.
The solution is pretty simple, in this order:
1. If it hits consistently with good indications, and it registers over 3" deep - DIG it regardless of the indications.
2. If you don't want to dig targets in the one cent coin range... don't. Put your concerns behind you and move on.
3. If you are afraid you're missing something that might be better than a cent, then dig. THere is only one way to know, after all.
These are your options, the trade offs you make as a detectorist. This is the same, no matter which instrument you prefer.
P.S. The One Cent coin will do one thing for you that even the mighty Federal Government and it's beloved Central Reserve Banking Consortium cannot do: it will revalue your money.
It only takes about 8 one cent coins to offset the inflation loss on a dollar. Find an octet of them, and you have restored the buying power of any one dollar.
I swing an F70.
Copper cents come in around the same as dimes, sometimes a few points lower.
Zinc cents usually come in around 5-8 points below copper.
The deeper they are, the lower they will hit on the scale.
But with all the variables you yourself acknowledge, about all you can say is, "Oh look, a hit in the cent range."
There are no absolutes. And I'm willing to bet this is the same for the F75.
The solution is pretty simple, in this order:
1. If it hits consistently with good indications, and it registers over 3" deep - DIG it regardless of the indications.
2. If you don't want to dig targets in the one cent coin range... don't. Put your concerns behind you and move on.
3. If you are afraid you're missing something that might be better than a cent, then dig. THere is only one way to know, after all.
These are your options, the trade offs you make as a detectorist. This is the same, no matter which instrument you prefer.
P.S. The One Cent coin will do one thing for you that even the mighty Federal Government and it's beloved Central Reserve Banking Consortium cannot do: it will revalue your money.
It only takes about 8 one cent coins to offset the inflation loss on a dollar. Find an octet of them, and you have restored the buying power of any one dollar.
If you are in an older area, I would beseech you to dig those zinc signals. As Del said, if you knock out the zincs in an area with possible older stuff, you also knock out a good percentage of Indian Heads. And older wheats to boot.
I've noticed that zincs that have been in the ground longer will tend to give jumpier ID numbers. I'm guessing because of the deterioration of the zinc into the surrounding soil.
Del also told you correctly that 1982 was the year that pennies switched from copper (technically bronze - 95% copper, 5% zinc and tin mix) to zinc.
1982 can be found in either copper or zinc. The way you can tell them apart, or tell any copper and zinc penny apart, is to drop them on a hard surface. The copper penny will have a melodious ping tone, the zinc penny will just sound flat with no tone.
Kind of hard to describe, but take a pre-82 and post-82 penny and drop them both and you'll easily hear the difference.
I've noticed that zincs that have been in the ground longer will tend to give jumpier ID numbers. I'm guessing because of the deterioration of the zinc into the surrounding soil.
Del also told you correctly that 1982 was the year that pennies switched from copper (technically bronze - 95% copper, 5% zinc and tin mix) to zinc.
1982 can be found in either copper or zinc. The way you can tell them apart, or tell any copper and zinc penny apart, is to drop them on a hard surface. The copper penny will have a melodious ping tone, the zinc penny will just sound flat with no tone.
Kind of hard to describe, but take a pre-82 and post-82 penny and drop them both and you'll easily hear the difference.
bgscofield6
New member
An Explorer will tell the difference between pennies and dimes. If I were out clad hunting I could go all day and not dig a penny and tell you exactly when a dime is going to come out of the ground.
marcomo said:
Actually in 1983 they also made a couple mil penny's out of copper also - I have a couple - ZINC penny's weigh 2.5 grams - copper penny's weigh 3.2 grams - I have a Rydale coin sorter (sorts coppers from zinc) and buy bags of unsorted penny's from various banks - so I guess you could call it a metal detector too!!
Dan
BuckeyeBrad
New member
n/t
doberman said:
There was no volume production of copper pennies dated 1983. I am a fairly knowledgable collector of Lincoln cents and know of no "transitional" examples that have been discovered that were struck in copper. There has been some discussion of some 1983 cents being plated in brass, but no confirmed cents composed entirely of copper or brass. In fact, you'd have a better chance finding a 1983 cent struck on a nickel or dime planchet than a <1982 copper planchet.
http://books.google.com/books?id=RzWG4iHWBvsC&pg=PA269&lpg=PA269&dq=1983+zinc+lincoln+cents&source=bl&ots=3t6AI44fZ9&sig=GxVB2RVMzEx3BPSD-QrbJRLlMU8&hl=en&ei=4G_oSsu9KoOvtgeFlMX0Bg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=9&ved=0CCEQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=&f=false
Mike Hillis
Well-known member
I can easily tell the difference between a zinc cent, a copper cent and a clad dime with the F5.
zinc cents are 59/60 id numbers.
coper cents are 71/72 id numbers.
clad dimes are 73/74 id numbers.
That is in my ground using the stock coil. The 11"DD coil will show the copper and clad numbers reversed in air tests but IN the ground they pretty much stay with the same id as the stock coil.
The F5 has incredible target id resolution starting around square tab and higher.
I know what I'm digging.
HH
Mike
zinc cents are 59/60 id numbers.
coper cents are 71/72 id numbers.
clad dimes are 73/74 id numbers.
That is in my ground using the stock coil. The 11"DD coil will show the copper and clad numbers reversed in air tests but IN the ground they pretty much stay with the same id as the stock coil.
The F5 has incredible target id resolution starting around square tab and higher.
I know what I'm digging.
HH
Mike
Hey Guys
What about silver dimes on edge and with some serious depth? I dug up a Barber dime that read as pulltab that was about 7 inches deep one time. Also if you are passing up zinc pennies you are also passing up a possible large mans10kt class rings, I know it's a hassle to find the owners but it can be rewarding at times. I was following a buddy one time in an old victorian house front yard and he was passing up shallow penny 'hits' and I dug them up and they were mercury dimes at about three to four inches deep. So ya never know until you dig them because they could be something good.
What about silver dimes on edge and with some serious depth? I dug up a Barber dime that read as pulltab that was about 7 inches deep one time. Also if you are passing up zinc pennies you are also passing up a possible large mans10kt class rings, I know it's a hassle to find the owners but it can be rewarding at times. I was following a buddy one time in an old victorian house front yard and he was passing up shallow penny 'hits' and I dug them up and they were mercury dimes at about three to four inches deep. So ya never know until you dig them because they could be something good.
Mike Hillis said:I can easily tell the difference between a zinc cent, a copper cent and a clad dime with the F5.
zinc cents are 59/60 id numbers.
coper cents are 71/72 id numbers.
clad dimes are 73/74 id numbers.
That is in my ground using the stock coil. The 11"DD coil will show the copper and clad numbers reversed in air tests but IN the ground they pretty much stay with the same id as the stock coil.
The F5 has incredible target id resolution starting around square tab and higher.
I know what I'm digging.
HH
Mike
You're the F5 guru, Mike! Those are pretty much the usual numbers for those coins I get with the F5 and the 11" coil. Slight difference in that my coppers are usually 70-71. But it's not set in stone for me. I've had coppers fluctuate in the high 60s. Older wheats and Indian Heads have often hit down towards the zinc range. And zincs that have been in the ground a while sometimes give me jumpy numbers.