"olde Detector" Coin pattern......(LINK)

[Anonymous]

Here's a link to my sites charts page, scroll down to the bottom and check out the "Old Detector" coin pattern, It's Kinda neat and it really is a good coin and jewelry pattern. I have to believe other's have noticed this before because when I was finished programming this pattern the detector just sort of jumped out at me. Count the pixels and give it a try if you want.
This pattern accepts just about all the US coins, and quite a few gold rings.
GL/HH

 

[Anonymous]

Mitch( and anyone else), I got to thinking yesterday about old coins and thought I would try setting up a screen for just old coins using the learn program. I did air tests with all the old coins that I have and it opened up very small areas on the screen. There are a number of coins that I don't have so this week I was thinking about going to a local coin dealer and purchasing some of the cheaper ones like a V nickel, early indian, barbers, seated coins, 2 and 3 cent pieces, etc, etc. (Eventually, I would like to have most if not all U.S. old coins put in a saved program). And if he has any old U.S. gold coins, I thought I would take my detector in and just scan them in the learn program in his shop. Of course I would save this program and use it at old sites like the old school house I have talked about that has a sigificant amount of buried trash. As I have said before, I am mainly interested in just old coins and thought this would be a way of having a pattern that was real specific to what I'm looking for. I have a couple of questions about this idea... I was thinking I would try to turn the sens to 32, gain 10, variability 10, and run fast so the detector would respond quicker after the nulled out non coin targets. Does this sound like a good idea? What kind of chance am I taking using a very specific pattern like this? Will I be missing a sigificant number old coins that are in the ground as opposed to air testing? I would think I would have to make sure to go real slow in order to get a good lock on a target.
Thanks,
Rainman

 

[Anonymous]

I have played with the idea of the Old Coins screen. IN MY OPINION, You would effectively create a basic coin screen (Already created on the Explorer).....This is not to say that your reasoning is wrong !!!!!!!! Create two screens, one for Silver and one for Copper. Why?????? Silver coins (the old ones) are really 90% Silver and 10% Copper basically. The Copper content is enough to let some Pennys (Copper) in (no matter what size cursor you use to learn). I do have a Silver screen and have made several good finds without digging any TRASH. The bigger the cursor the more digging and trash. NOTE: I was advised against doing this because of Target Averageing and to refer to another post.......What are you leaving behind ???? But.......It is a time saver for those days when you don't want to dig any TRASH !!!!! Open for comments and suggestions. HH

 

[Anonymous]

You can, that's what I did on the old detector pattern, only I added various gold rings and that made an almost continuous string of pixels starting from silver dollars and ending at the bottom well to the left with a very thin white gold wedding band. The string was wider in some sections, like around the wheaties,but all an all it remained mostly 2 pixels wide.
What I did after that was to go back and add 1 to 2 pixels width to each side ultimatly surounding the entire string(which explains the thickness of the pattern, it started out quite thin). The reason for this is to accept more for the different variations the ground and most junk causes. The old detector pattern will wotk great but once again you can never be sure your not missing an odd coin(a coin that's a little thinner or thicker, or a coin that has a little different metal variation to them). It's not a bad pattern but all patterns have a place and a time.
I use so many different setting variations to suit different types of sites that I would not want to go back to being stuck using 1 set up, or even 5 or 6. One thing I have noticed is I alway use whatever setting allows me to accept as much area on the screen as possible, sometimes I end up in Iron Mask -10 and sometimes I end up using a tight coin program only accepting high coin. Either way I'm finding that the site ultimatly dictates the settings.
GL/HH

 

[Anonymous]

If you buy an old nickel that was never in the ground, its going to read about the same as a new nickel.. the grund and mineralization tends to do something that makes them read a little lower, I would assume indians would do the same thing, but I never ran a store bought one under the coil.. I think I do have one indian my mother gave me years ago I will try it and see what heppens,,if you do use a pattern like that, at least use the large curser during the accept process and go real slow while hunting to give the coin time to register in the right area or your going to walk right over them in trash

 

[Anonymous]

Jim, Rainman....The original thinner pattern that was there before I widened it was derived from using most all my finds taken from the ground and they did show up in different places but still in their own groups. Like Indians, they had a group 2 pixels wide and if I remember right 5 or 6 pixels high(the earlier ones showed up in an area all of their own 2x2 pixels. Wheaties had the largest cluster. Nickels also were 2 pixels wide and about 5 to 6 pixels high with the shields and v's at the bottom.
After this I brought out my actual coin collection(bought new old coins)and began to teach the XS all the new coins too. Pretty much all the silvers didn't vary much except when I used a worn paper thin coin, the wear made some difference. The new coppers and nickels show up as you pointed out higher.
When I was finished there was a string stretching from silver dollar to 3 cent nickel with a few breaks(spaces) on it but then after adding the gold rings it was almost a complete string with only 1 or two places where a couple pixels were missing. Of course when I surrounded the string with an additional 2 pixels it bacame much wider, taking on that old detector look.
I believe that by adding the extra pixels I made up for any futher coin ID discrepency. But that doesn't do anything for the effect Iron and near by junk has on targets, so we're back to excepting as much as you can. The old detector coin pattern is neat, but in most cases not practical. As Mike M. showed, sometimes coins really stray off the ID quite a bit. You could set it up for an out of the box newbie at a good site and tell them to dig everything that beeps but it wouldn't be long before they would just open up there screen all the way.
GL/HH
BTW, My coin string is only as good as my collection of both new coins and coins taken out of the ground. Someone with more finds and a bigger coin collection could certainly teach the XS a more accurate coin accept string(if it still looked like a string). I used about 200 wheatie finds to open up the wheatie area. Also it would be nice to know where the 1 and 3 dollar gold pieces show up, I don't think there's any $4 gold coins lost in the ground.

 

[Anonymous]

Mitch,why wouldn't the very top right of the screen be open? If I remember correctly, when I was out hunting, that's where the silver dimes registered.

 

[Anonymous]

It's the center of the curser that marks the spot, and that is about a half curser below the top (not the top). A half dollar will read higher but not always, I dig 30's because I've dug halves and large cents that read there but for the most part nothing normally goes higher than silver dimes and quarters, only occasional halves.
You'd be surprised just how small a box(rectangle) you really need for silver dimes, quarters, halves and dollars, that is if it wasn't for the Iron consideration. Silver does pretty good at hitting it's ID, it's the copper and nickel coins that make it necessary to open the screen up.
I was once asked by Joe (Hudson Valley) why we shouldn't just reject the top corner(31)and(part of 30), we'll actually I don't know why I answered. It would be like taking 1/4's width of the curser off the top(rejecting it), maybe to knock out the high iron tone(31)in digital, or maybe since nothing usually hits there it just doesn't matter whether it's rejected or not. I haven't given it any more thought but it was a good question.
BTW, I have dug 31's that pinpoint good and they have been steel bolts, screws, and stainless steel buttons, so far not one decent target.
GL/HH

 

[Anonymous]

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