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Old Axhead found from rum river logging days
- Thread starter GunnarMN
- Start date
JimmyCT
Well-known member
Dr. Gunnar,
nice extraction job on the 1800's axe head! Well, there were certainly people in the area. Take some more time and check out the area a little more. Going off the beaten path does produce finds. I know it does for me. Maybe in your next episode you can check out the possible dump hill that you were speaking of. How deep is the rum river right in that bend? (When the water is at its normal level) Maybe when it gets lower (and it isn't too deep) you could check out this ancient crossing better with your detector. Thanks for producing another fine video. Look forward to your next hunting video - Jim aka dimeman aka EPL
nice extraction job on the 1800's axe head! Well, there were certainly people in the area. Take some more time and check out the area a little more. Going off the beaten path does produce finds. I know it does for me. Maybe in your next episode you can check out the possible dump hill that you were speaking of. How deep is the rum river right in that bend? (When the water is at its normal level) Maybe when it gets lower (and it isn't too deep) you could check out this ancient crossing better with your detector. Thanks for producing another fine video. Look forward to your next hunting video - Jim aka dimeman aka EPL
Birdseed
Member
Gunnar
I congratulate you on your persistence, that axehead is a special find. If you are interested in cleaning up your iron and steel finds some more here is a brew that works well
Get an old plastic trash can and fill it with about 10 gallons of water.
Go down to the local animal feed store and get a couple of quarts of horse feed molasses
Mix the molasses into the water and add a bit of yeast, or a can of beer, or a couple of slices of bread. Any of those will do, but the yeast is quickest.
Put the lid onto the trash can and forget about it for a week or so, by which time it will be fermenting well with a scum developing on top.
Now all you have to do is immerse your iron or steel object in the solution. Make sure it is completely under the liquid.
The process is gentle and somewhat slow, but after a week or two, depending on the amount of corrosion, pull it out and hose it off and give it a good scrub with a wire brush or similar.
The black deposit will come off fairly easy, if not put it back into the brew for another week or so.
Do the brushing off outside wearing old clothes as the black residue will stain and the stain is permanent.
Interestingly the black deposit is almost identical to the printers ink used for printing in the early 1900s.
When done properly the iron/steel object will be perfectly clean, it will look just like it has been sand blasted.
The object will in fact be so clean that you can see the oxygen in the air attacking the surface. You will see the surface becoming orange with a film of rust before your eyes.
To prevent further rusting or oxidization, brush a coat of rust converter or phosphoric acid solution over the surface and it will not rust again if kept under cover.
This process is used by people restoring old cars and motorcycles in Australia and I guess other parts of the world. It is particularly handy for de-rusting small difficult to get at things like inside petrol and oil tanks.
It is important to fully immerse objects as you will get severe pitting at the air/liquid interface otherwise.
The brew lasts for months if not years.
Best of luck
Pete downunder
I congratulate you on your persistence, that axehead is a special find. If you are interested in cleaning up your iron and steel finds some more here is a brew that works well
Get an old plastic trash can and fill it with about 10 gallons of water.
Go down to the local animal feed store and get a couple of quarts of horse feed molasses
Mix the molasses into the water and add a bit of yeast, or a can of beer, or a couple of slices of bread. Any of those will do, but the yeast is quickest.
Put the lid onto the trash can and forget about it for a week or so, by which time it will be fermenting well with a scum developing on top.
Now all you have to do is immerse your iron or steel object in the solution. Make sure it is completely under the liquid.
The process is gentle and somewhat slow, but after a week or two, depending on the amount of corrosion, pull it out and hose it off and give it a good scrub with a wire brush or similar.
The black deposit will come off fairly easy, if not put it back into the brew for another week or so.
Do the brushing off outside wearing old clothes as the black residue will stain and the stain is permanent.
Interestingly the black deposit is almost identical to the printers ink used for printing in the early 1900s.
When done properly the iron/steel object will be perfectly clean, it will look just like it has been sand blasted.
The object will in fact be so clean that you can see the oxygen in the air attacking the surface. You will see the surface becoming orange with a film of rust before your eyes.
To prevent further rusting or oxidization, brush a coat of rust converter or phosphoric acid solution over the surface and it will not rust again if kept under cover.
This process is used by people restoring old cars and motorcycles in Australia and I guess other parts of the world. It is particularly handy for de-rusting small difficult to get at things like inside petrol and oil tanks.
It is important to fully immerse objects as you will get severe pitting at the air/liquid interface otherwise.
The brew lasts for months if not years.
Best of luck
Pete downunder
JimmyCT
Well-known member
Thanks Pete for the secret iron cleaning formula!
Get an old plastic trash can and fill it with about 10 gallons of water.
Go down to the local animal feed store and get a couple of quarts of horse feed molasses
Mix the molasses into the water and add a bit of yeast, or a can of beer, or a couple of slices of bread. Any of those will do, but the yeast is quickest.
Put the lid onto the trash can and forget about it for a week or so, by which time it will be fermenting well with a scum developing on top.
Now all you have to do is immerse your iron or steel object in the solution. Make sure it is completely under the liquid.
The process is gentle and somewhat slow, but after a week or two, depending on the amount of corrosion, pull it out and hose it off and give it a good scrub with a wire brush or similar.
The black deposit will come off fairly easy, if not put it back into the brew for another week or so.
Do the brushing off outside wearing old clothes as the black residue will stain and the stain is permanent.
Interestingly the black deposit is almost identical to the printers ink used for printing in the early 1900s.
When done properly the iron/steel object will be perfectly clean, it will look just like it has been sand blasted.
The object will in fact be so clean that you can see the oxygen in the air attacking the surface. You will see the surface becoming orange with a film of rust before your eyes.
To prevent further rusting or oxidization, brush a coat of rust converter or phosphoric acid solution over the surface and it will not rust again if kept under cover.
This process is used by people restoring old cars and motorcycles in Australia and I guess other parts of the world. It is particularly handy for de-rusting small difficult to get at things like inside petrol and oil tanks.
It is important to fully immerse objects as you will get severe pitting at the air/liquid interface otherwise.
The brew lasts for months if not years.
Best of luck
Pete downunder[/quote]
Get an old plastic trash can and fill it with about 10 gallons of water.
Go down to the local animal feed store and get a couple of quarts of horse feed molasses
Mix the molasses into the water and add a bit of yeast, or a can of beer, or a couple of slices of bread. Any of those will do, but the yeast is quickest.
Put the lid onto the trash can and forget about it for a week or so, by which time it will be fermenting well with a scum developing on top.
Now all you have to do is immerse your iron or steel object in the solution. Make sure it is completely under the liquid.
The process is gentle and somewhat slow, but after a week or two, depending on the amount of corrosion, pull it out and hose it off and give it a good scrub with a wire brush or similar.
The black deposit will come off fairly easy, if not put it back into the brew for another week or so.
Do the brushing off outside wearing old clothes as the black residue will stain and the stain is permanent.
Interestingly the black deposit is almost identical to the printers ink used for printing in the early 1900s.
When done properly the iron/steel object will be perfectly clean, it will look just like it has been sand blasted.
The object will in fact be so clean that you can see the oxygen in the air attacking the surface. You will see the surface becoming orange with a film of rust before your eyes.
To prevent further rusting or oxidization, brush a coat of rust converter or phosphoric acid solution over the surface and it will not rust again if kept under cover.
This process is used by people restoring old cars and motorcycles in Australia and I guess other parts of the world. It is particularly handy for de-rusting small difficult to get at things like inside petrol and oil tanks.
It is important to fully immerse objects as you will get severe pitting at the air/liquid interface otherwise.
The brew lasts for months if not years.
Best of luck
Pete downunder[/quote]
Birdseed
Member
Gunnar
As you are also into potting and ceramics, you probably have access to manganese dioxide glaze. I have somewhere a formula for using this with phosphoric acid in a process to permanently blacken or more correctly "parkerize" iron /steel to give a lovely finish to your objects. This process is used to protect guns, rifles and machine tools from corrosion. I'll look it up down the track and post it for all to see.
Pete downunder
As you are also into potting and ceramics, you probably have access to manganese dioxide glaze. I have somewhere a formula for using this with phosphoric acid in a process to permanently blacken or more correctly "parkerize" iron /steel to give a lovely finish to your objects. This process is used to protect guns, rifles and machine tools from corrosion. I'll look it up down the track and post it for all to see.
Pete downunder
Gunnar,nice video and find.Thanks Ron
Big Boys Hobbies
Well-known member
Very cool find. Eagle was super cool as well!
Great video Gunnar, nice find with the axe head..........
I am starting to think that you carry around a 'Mary Poppins bay' around with you, the type where you can pull anything you need out of.......... I am already impressed by the amount of tools you use...... and seeing that tree root, it made me laugh to see you then appear with cutters!!!
Keep the video's coming - I really appreciate you making them because its something I wouldn't have the patience to do.
I am starting to think that you carry around a 'Mary Poppins bay' around with you, the type where you can pull anything you need out of.......... I am already impressed by the amount of tools you use...... and seeing that tree root, it made me laugh to see you then appear with cutters!!!
Keep the video's coming - I really appreciate you making them because its something I wouldn't have the patience to do.
JimmyCT
Well-known member
That is why I address him as "Dr. Gunnar" He brings his "bag" along with him and every tool in the trade. I too am impressed with his array of tools. I definitely need to invest in a pair of cutters myself as I have run into root problems several times where the lesche digger just didn't cut it (pun intended) ( I am not saying it is not a good tool because it is) what I am saying is there are some roots where I need to "up the ante" to get through them. Gunnar has taught me many things about using the correct tools out in the field. Thanks Dr. Gunnar!
BeachBat said:
sometimes its a delema i go thru trying to diside wich tools i will need for that days detecting i try to bring as few as i can otherwise it gets to heavy always open to new Ideas as well at the rodio I thought my ice pick would handle the hard dry clay but no , so i skipped that spot as far as roots go they are very rubbery and respond better to cutting with a clipper gladd you got a kick out of it LOL