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Nulling??

A

Anonymous

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Could anyone give me an explination of "nulling", I keep readnin about it but can't really understand what is meant. Probably so basic I am overlooking it. I am reading everything on the forum but don';t seem to find an explination. OR I have read it and it just hasn't registered. Thanks, KW
 
I re-read your answer several times and I am guessing that a lot of iron in the area stops the threshold sound, but is that only true in disc, or in advanced set, or digital, or does that happen in Iron mask, I have been running in IM at -8 and doing well but mostly shallow coins, did get one good barber (1906) today, but am so unsure of my sounds, just so many and when I go to PP the sounds break up, I get high sounds but the cross hairs are somtimes on the left. does hat mean a coin next to iron. I get a lot of nice high sounds but as I keep trying to get a fix on them (not pinpoint) sometimes they disappear, or good from only one direction, OR sometimes sound then the next pass nothing and then come they come back, but when I go to PP it is extreme difficult, PP sounds everywhere and I can't get a fix. I am running sensitivity at 22, in fast mode, in advanced, should I be in "smart" or where, and what would you suggest for other settings, I am out in the cow pasture parking lot, so I can dig a bit deeper,(if I am careful) I am sure it is part of the old fairgrounds back in the 30's or 40's so probably will have some good coins, that is where I found the 1906 barber dime in exquisite condition. but all the other stuff was surface and newer, 1970's but I did get two liberty dimes 1942,1943 yesterday, in prime condition, every detail there. I am getting some kind of high ring almost every couple of feet but difficult to determine if diggable or not. I have only been digging when I get a good clear repeatable signal but I just end up with the new stuff, otherwise I am still digging to china. any suggestions, kind of give me an overall setting you would recommend, in the different modes, i.e. smart, or advanced. I know I am using a lot of forum space but I hope what I am asking may help other newbies. Thanks Ken
 
Hi Ken.. OK Nulling is anytime the threshold disappears.. now you must be tunning a threshold for it to happen.. And Yes it will nnull in iron mask at least over iron, unless you were running iron mask set to -16 which is the same as accept all.. Once in iron mask your in iron mask whether you go to smart find or digital till you turn off iron mask.. you can run a pattern, turn on iron mask and be out of that pattern, and off your back in that pattern.. Any time the explorer discs anything out it is nulling and causing the explorer to work harder to see nearby stuff that isnt rejected.. mor e iron calls for less iron mask.. the sounds your talking about sound like iron falsing or hot riock falsing, but then again could be good too.. A generall rule to follow till you get used to the sounds is on the iffy ones work the signals a bit harder.. I like to circle the target while sweeping the coil in very small sweeps back and forth with a quick steady motion.. if you hear the target more than you dont dig, if you only seem to get it in one spot dont.. after a while your ear will tune into good from bad and as long as your not going too fast you should hear them all with less falsing.. any time the dector is in a null you should slow down even more.. Hot rocks gve a much higher tone than coins with a kind of washed out sound with the crosshairs pegging off the top of the screen.. Iron usually will also peg off the top on the left, where good targets in iron will generally stay on the screen, maybe touching or just a hair over the top.. Hard to explain by talking about it.. At any rate keep the coil as close to the ground as possible throughout the sweep, keep the gain less than 7 if in a spot where your falsing alot, run fast mode with normal audio and keep sens in manual at a lower level say around 22 max and you will experience less falsing in iron.. the auto mode sometimes caises falsing while the explorer is trying to adjust itself in varying ground.. keep the targets under the center of the coil and dont let the edge of the col pass the target while checking them.. a little wiggle of the coil directly over the target while circling the target will tell you lots.. most good targets will remain steady in tone and most bad will give you a different tone from different angles.. keep the coil as close to the ground while doing it and also if possible kick away any surface dirt which maye have some small trash causing a false..Of course if you get a good lock on a target from only one direction you might want to dig those, at least if in heavy iron nulls....If your getting a good solid reading that reads from all dorections dont stop digging cause something is down there.. unless you know for a fact its a large target.. remember after getting down 7 inches or so and the volume of the target remains loud and you can lift the coil 8 inches and its still as loud.. you more than likely got a deep large can or something, or a surface coin you didnt pinpoint correctly.. if you dont have one get one of the 8 inch coils or a Joey.. it will help you in those trashy sites tremendously
 
What a fantastic answer, You can't believe how much that helps, I really appreciate your help, that is so kind of you to go to that much effort. Sure wish I had someone here to go out with but I am learning, and the explanation you just gave me sure answered a lot of questions in the back of my mind, I am just a little unclear on "auto", I will read the book and see if I can find it, I have the quick start for factory presets, smart, and the advanced, so I probably am just overlooking it, thanks so much again and I am sure the good of explanation will help others, I wish there was a newsletter or a pamphlet or something with those kind of detailed answers, like a FAQ, I sure would pay for one in a heartbeat, I don't mind at all putting in the learning time but it is so much nicer to go out with that kind of background as we are learning and listing. If it wasn't for this forum I am not sure I would have ever learned, since I didn't have any previous experience. It was really overwhelming for me. But now when I go out and encounter some problems I can come back and re-read the forum and usually find at least part of the answer or I can ask and It really helps. All you guys that have helped me I really appreciate it, and keep up the good work, I know you are helping a lot of others. Ken
 
Great summary Jim.
BTW Ken has a good point ... an FAQ might really help with all the repeat questions especially ones you've answered a million times already.
You sure got patience and, I believe, a real love for the hobby to be able to answer all the MInelab (and other) questions on all the forums you frequent.
Thanks a lot ... Gord.
 
Ken,
Jims answer was great wasnt it?? It give you a idea of some of the things many are saying and I think you will learn much of this by experience from using the Explorer.
I take it you either bought the Explorer used or from Kellyco as a local dealer should have been able to help you a little with understanding of the basics of the Explorer.
Good luck and remember to go slow.
After over 200 hours I am still learning with the Explorer and I still dig a lot of rusty nails as I dont want to take a chance on any iffy ones, but getting less everytime out because I am learning from experience.
Rick
I also find the learning curve is easier with the Stealth 8 inch coil and the X1 Probe of Sunray.
 
I would love to have those coils, but $$$, so will have to wait, I got the SX New from a legit dealer, really a nice guy but he knew nothing about the XS, he was into the GP and I also bought a GP, am just now getting ready to go nugget hunting, but wanted the SX as I encounter old town sites as I prowl the hills, every now and then I come across an old ghost town or a couple of cabins and I am sure there might be a coin or two. So I got the XS and that bankrupted me, but I am doing a well. do appreciate your help. most of the answers to the questions I ask are probably on the forum but sometimes in a answer to a differet question, or just part of an answer as this machine is so complicated. So I gleen as much as I can and then ask the question and try to add them all together, You all keep up the good work, Minelab ought to pay you a fortune for the work you are doing, I was really getting discourged with the performance, I knew it was good but just to much machine for a novice, some of the old timers can switch over without much problem but for one who has never coin hunted or probably 10 hours in the last 10 years it was a bit too much, Minelab really needs to publish a FAQ or one of you guys, Like I said I would buy it in a hearbeat. Thanks again, Ken
 
That there need to be a page on here that has a "Best of"list of some of the most informative posts,which a large percentage are from Jim!No-one could reply, just a Tips page of sorts.Someone that Watched over the page,Guvner,Jim or some other xs pro,could add informative post as they appear or if someone had useful ideas or techniques,they could submit them to the one in charge of it.Then if some newbie has a question that has been answered already,we could refer them to the FAQ page.
That would probably end up doing away with this forum eventually.But this forum was supposed to be temporary anyway.
 
<font size=5>Don't want anyone to think I am full of B.S.Here is a link to it</font size=5>
 
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