new settings , what do you think...

[daveo]

Hi all me again, sometimes i feel like i'm just wondering out there in the field(so to speak), New settings.... opinions welcome ,,,,,smartfind, IM.30, sens. 18 to 22,Gain 6,threshhold 7 or whats audible, var.9 or 10,noise 5, limits and contrast 10. i xout foil,nails,screw and crown caps. Any opinios would be great , hate to bother you guys. thanks in advance.

 

[Rick(ND)]

If you do a noise cancel I wouldn't change the noise myself as it is usually fine after you do a noise cancel. If you are running iron mask the disc pattern will make no difference unless you are switch back and forth between the 2 to check signals. Also if you are putting a X in screw caps you also will not get the new zinc pennies, the older Wheaties and the IH pennies, so I wouldn't X out the screw caps myself as I like the IH and some of the older Wheaties in the teens and 20s.

 

[NH Bob]

I've already answered this question before and you still insist on Xing things out. You are making the machine contradict itself.
Iron mask 30 is near all metal. That is an open screen. Your other settings are okay and as you learn more you can experiment.

 

[mattockman]

Rick is right about noise cancel...use it at every site and if things get noisy (as in false noises) 100feet from where you started do it again. ETC ETC ETC...It all depends what the site is like is what I decide to do. At a fair ground with tons of junk in the ground...and knowing old coins are shallow...I built a special program just for this site. I came home with all diff. types of pull tabs,screw caps,crown caps,etc...from this site... things that are very close to coins or common trash idems First go to select in menu then hit clear then accept coins with a check mark, skip fe coins,accept jewlery,reject foil,skip pull tabs and reject crown caps skip screwcaps and reject nails, this is your starter program then I used the learn program...I used the small square to learn them in to discriminate them out...(read the book if you don't know how to use this part) go thru all junk to blacken out screen and try to get a good clear sound when doing this cause if you don't you will get a very scattered blackened out reading each pass you make must be procise... once you get all trash learned and rejected... SAVE!!!! or you will loose it...then I took all known coins that I have found including every one I found at fair grounds...meaning diff. years...cause composition of metals used will change from year to year sometimes...if some did not sound off then I edited screen till it did sound off...meaning I have to dig some screw caps to find some Indians.(example). Learn how to use Learn and edit...it is better than the select mode...and as time goes on there I find diff. things sounding off and dig it and edit it out and recheck again if all coins are not discriminated out by doing so... and just to add that it is not easy to detect cause of all the quick squeals that come close to disc. out and excepted...but if it is good it will either sound off clear as a bell or be good from diff. angles...you have to train yourself to stop and check it out if it sounds better than just a quick chirp...I did this and can find old coins in tons of trash...and I am still building my program...and cause I know coins are not deep...I ran 12 manual sensativity with the 7.5 Minelab coil and also lowered from 7 gain to 5 and turned off deep cause it is not needed....and snagged a 1883 Indian and a 1943 Merc dime with in a few minutes...if there is tons of trash around and coins are semi shallow lower sens. cause you don't need ground punching power...you need to drop picking up 4 or 5 targets to picking up just 1 or 2 at a time...it makes it better. go slower also to keep a better threshhold and processor time to recover...so having all this disc. going on when I get a questionable signal I can hit IM button which is always wide open and see how many targets is close by and can determine by hearing it all if any are good...then either good or bad dig or not...then go back to smart screen and keep on going. Always never forget to use save so you can store it and use it again meaning after you make program or edit or change whatever...you can save 6 programs... Now in a less trashy area...I always go to select...and hit clear and go back to smart screen and start out wide open...I use 18 sens. to 22-24 if ok and stable...I like to use 7 gain with just deep on for recover...Vari.8,limits 10,th.tone 5,sounds ferrous- always,volume 10,response-normal,and always in advanced mode. I always have IM set at wide open or -16 on xs or -32? on SE. If I choose to start learning right there in the field cause too much junk is showing up I can turn to IM and see the big picture. Don't forget when you change certain things and shut it off...the next time you turn it on it remembers your last settings so always check to make sure you got what you want before you hunt again...including back light was on cause it was dark outside and you turned it on.... when you shut it off and next time you use it it could be bright daylight and you might not be able to tell if back light is on and go thru batteries faster...always double check...I forget sometimes and run around with sens...set toooo low dah!!! In places I want it higher...so always check all settings and options.......and make sure nothing faulted back to quick start...etc...

 

[Joe of South Jersey]

Why not just make you own pattern?

Clear the screen, and with the small cursor. Just black out what would be the upper left and down about half the screen. This will get rid of the big iron. This only works in ferrous Mode

This way you can decide if it is a target worth digging. It is almost all-metal less the big iron.

This works for me, I want to decide if to dig or not.

 

[Joe of South Jersey]

n/t

 

[mattockman]

n/t

 

[daveo]

thank you mattockman , i'll try and absorb everything you said , thanks to everyone for their advice .

 

[Mike (Virginia Beach)]

I agree...if you are going to run IM-30, why not go ALL THE WAY? Which is what I do. I can't stand the constant nulling that I have to endure at most of the types of sites that I hunt if I don't hunt in IM-All Metal. And if the iron ISN'T there, what not hunt in IM-AM as well? It's best to HEAR everything and then determine what you want to DIG. But that's just me.

And YOU.

And MANY of us.

Eventually, I think we ALL get there. It just takes a little time to come around.

 

[KCK]

Don't you just love it when a guy puts his heart and soul into a reply on a post! Thanks for your time brother, your advise, and wise knowledge!


KCK/OHIO

 

[mattockman]

n/t

 

[Don in SJ]

[quote Mike (Virginia Beach)]I agree...if you are going to run IM-30, why not go ALL THE WAY? Which is what I do. I can't stand the constant nulling that I have to endure at most of the types of sites that I hunt if I don't hunt in IM-All Metal. And if the iron ISN'T there, what not hunt in IM-AM as well? It's best to HEAR everything and then determine what you want to DIG. But that's just me.
And YOU.
And MANY of us.
Eventually, I think we ALL get there. It just takes a little time to come around. [/quote]

I just want to add, I think by not hunting and listening to all, you will miss something. It makes you go slower, which is what most do not do, and miss targets by doing so. I hate nulling, love the sound of iron hits, that means good things are about to happen.

Speaking from six and half years of experience with the same original XS..........

Don

 

[daveo]

I've gone to all meatal , a little hard to get used to ,but i'm ok with it , i have found some deeper wheaties , thanks for all the advice and to you mattockman especially , thanks .

 

[rebeltector]