New CTX coils

[Ben Town]

I received a 6" and 17" coil yesterday

 

[IDXMonster]

Well dammit put them on and go find something for us to look at!

 

[Ben Town]

I seem to be having trouble with my posts?
There is only part of the text that shows up.
I asked how everyone with the 17" coils reinforce the cable coming of the coil?
They seem to crack and wear .
Does electric tape do the job?
I hope this all shows up
BT

 

[IDXMonster]

Yeah the "missing text" problem shows up in the archives too...I haven't reinforced mine but I think the trick is to have the bolt/nut combo tight enough so that the coil isn't constantly moving,like laying flat when you put the machine down. Otherwise maybe pull a bit through the bottom and secure it to the shaft so you have a few inches at the bottom that's really never moving. I just haven't seen any problems yet,but I'm not saying they don't exist. It is a good idea to be proactive about it though as they're not cheap,as you must know..

 

[Champ Ferguson]

Another thing you can do is to put a piece of semirigid foam around the exit point to act as a cushion. Make sure you leas enough slack in the coil wire to you aren't pulling on the connection when the coil angle changes.

 

[GKMan]

Someone on here had built up a ring of silicon epoxy around the point where the coil and wire meet. I thought that looked like a good way to help prevent wear and increase waterproofing.

 

[Champ Ferguson]

Another thing you can do is to put a piece of semirigid foam around the exit point to act as a cushion. Make sure you leas enough slack in the coil wire to you aren't pulling on the connection when the coil angle changes.

*%$*$&$^ autocorrect! makes me look more illiterate than I actually am.
should read:

"Another thing you can do is to put a piece of semirigid foam around the exit point to act as a cushion. Make sure you leave enough slack in the coil wire so you aren't pulling on the connection when the coil angle changes."


I would add that I use a piece of pool noodle (or you can use a piece of a pipe insulation 'tube') that I have cut into the proper shape. Remember that you probably will want to drain water from that opening someday.

 

[jas415]

In my experience the area where it will fail is within an inch of the place the coil wire enters the coil. There is a 'ribbed area the area to assist in protecting it but the inside of that ribbed area is where mine split. The sheath that contains the wiring split on mine. I could see the different colored wires inside the case. As it was out of warranty and they dont repair them, I did some southern engineering on it and cut an inch high section of 1" dia pvc pipe. Inserted the coil cable through that, centered and super glued the pvc to the coil top, around the area the cable enters the coil. Then filled that with silicon. I had three coils and two were split in that area. Returned one under warranty for a new one.

I have had no issues at all with the cable fraying, or being cut, where it exits the lower shaft to enter the coil.

 

[mrsspk]

I saw somewhere where the user turned the bottom rod flipped with the opening where the coil cable enters facing upward

 

[billwatson]

I ground the nub off the lower shaft so it can be put in turned around with the opening up, but the lower tends to rotate a little and occasionally needs adjustment.
another solution is to never fold the coil against the shaft toward the shaft opening - fold it the other way - away from the opening

 

[Johnnoh]

I used this spiral wrap - it's already hacked up after only 8-10 hours use.

 

[cjc]

Here is the CTX 3003 coil mod that we use to reduce wear and prevent leaks. It's one row from coil to wire and back with rubberized tape and locktite at the bottom. Then to protect the soft stretch tape. another up and back of 3m electrical tape. It's not a bad idea to file smooth the aperture on the isolater too to reduce wear.
cjc
clivesgoldpage.com

 

[jas415]

The wrap 'fix' looks solid. I used a 1" pvc and glued it tot he coil, then filled with flexible silicone. Been about 6-7 months and still flexible and going great. After 5 years with two CTX's and 5 coils, 3 which failed, 2 at the entry point into the coil, I have never had an issue where the coil enters the shaft at either end. All my failures have been about a half inch from the actual coil. The pivoting of the coil has caused a rupture of the 'reinforced' area the manufacturer designed. One coil had the entire larger 'ribbed' rubber area break in half and expose the colored wires inside, and another just split the inner sheath covering the wiring. One I sent back and was replaced, the other is the original 2012 6" coil out of warranty coil, that I applied my pvc fix to. I just cut a 3/4" to 1" section of pvc, threaded it over the cable, super glued it to the coil top, then sprayed the cable area with cleaner and filled the area with liquid silicone. The previously posted 'taping' idea should suffice just as nicely and might be easier. I might add that two other CTX users who hunt with me have experienced the exact same failure issue at the same place on the wiring/cabling.

 

[CCadrin]

Great idea. I got to keep that in mind once the coil goes out of warranty.

 

[Mutley]

The problem is the consistent bending to the flex where it comes out of the coil due to the very low entrance into the stem. A really poor design in my opinion, just put them on Anderson Shafts and you wont have the problem, even with the coil laid flat it barely bends the cable.

 

[robinb]

I took apart one of my old bad coils today.

The sleeving comes upto the grommet only (i cut off the strain relief) at base of strain relief so water got into the cable and electronics in coil

 

[Ben Town]

Jas
You used super glue to attach the PVC pipe to the coil?
Just want to make sure I get the right glue
BT