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Need help with CZ-6

rmptr

New member
I bought a CZ-6 today...
Not a clue of how settings should be...LOL

All knobs set to the RED settings for the dials, when I turn it ON, it makes a telephone ringing sound which stops quickly.

What does THAT mean? LOL

It offers no more than wimpy little squeekies, when trying to detect... not sure what's up with that.
Came with a 'clip on your collar' handy talkie extension speaker... what kind of headphones are advised for this machine?

Thank you!
 
Rick, did you get a manual with it? There are two methods of ground balancing. I always used the bob method. Put it on autotune(all metal) sensitivity 3/4 to max, volume max. Bob up and down from about 8 inches to just above the ground. Adjust the ground balance knob until threshold remains even. I use little or no disc. I set it to iron setting. Sensitivity to 4 once ground balanced. It has a faint target boost on the volume so use this according to what you like. I prefer a setting of just under 5 and deep targets will be fainter. My hearing is one thing that has not gone south on me yet. Above 5 the targets will all respond with the same strength. I have found a slow sweep(not Explorer slow) and listen to all the tones. The high tone that repeats from 90 degrees is most always a coin. A nice feature about CZ's is they high tone on nickles and you will get plenty of them and deep. Forgot to add use the normal mode, not the salt mode. While you are getting the hang of it, dig repeatable signals. I dig any deep bouncing signals that have a high tone mixed in. CZ's have a bad reputation for loving deep rusty nails and iron. I can tell most of this junk when I am pinpointing. A coin will stay small(audio and needle will be quick to it's highest pitch and the needle will not linger at the deepest depth reading. I hope that doesn't sound confusing, but I can size the target pretty accurately while pinpointing. I bought one of the nicest CZ6a's from Dan a couple of years back and I had a super year with it. I found deep silver coins nearly every time out. It is a very simple detector and once you master ground balancing, I hardly ever touched the settings. That bell ringing is normal. If I forgot something or someone has their version of setup, please jump in. R.L. PS I sold the 6a back to Dan. I should have kept that detector!
 
You mention a CZ6 and they did have problems with the coil connector on that model and was changed with the CZ6A but when it failed your unit wouldn't work so would feel its human error and would read the manual and practice groundbalancing as that can cause havoc if not done correctly..Perhaps a club member or dealer could gives you hands on help and to me just may have a bad pair of headphones or have your volume low which could cause the low audio.As far as headphones any good stereo model should work..If none of the above help kindly E-mail me and perhaps we can walk you thru it.. Detectdan@msn.com
Again it could be a faulty unit but I think it may be operator error...
Whoops Google mikes CZ page as it has a wealth of info on CZ units...
 
Thank you RL and Dan!

This is fun!

The fellow was apparently relic hunting, in the bush, at night...
A nite lite circuit had been mounted on the rod and directed at the coil.
Rod was protected with fabric brush guards.

Control box apparently had always been belt mounted in a carry case and is VERY clean.
Battery contacts, inside, show zero contact wear.

Tried different headphones after replacing batteries.
Fiddle with varying settings and volume is hit or miss.
At this time I suspect bad contacts at the RCA jack.

I would like advice to open case... All comes out front after removing knobs, switch lock nuts, then pull faceplate?

I DID d/l manual, and Mikes czpage is great!
Also read some of Tom Dankowski... Whew! He smart guy! I want a 3d:)

Shaft on discrim pot is very wiggly... GB less so, and volume a bit less than that. Sensitivity pot seems great.
No crackling noise or fluctuating meter readings as I rotate the knobs, but want to verify good contact for headphones anyway.

This serial # is 11k, the machine is possibly15yrs old?
I'm hoping the pots are not wore out! Little sign of wear on the knobs, though..

Need to buy new plastic rod tightening compression nut assemblies, and the top rod that has the S in it... bent:sad:

This unit has 5 pin mic connector on box for coil wire. looks dandy. not a clue what CZ6a uses.. this says 6 only.

Thank you much for the help
rmptr
 
Do not take off any knobs!!! disconnect female connector on back of box, unit will slide out front. I don't think its in the RCA jack . Be careful .
 
LOL

Thanks Everett!
Glad I got your post...

I'm going to take my time on this project. So many nice, knowledgeable, and helpful people have said it should be a great machine.
So far I had only put a very small drop of penetrating oil on the knob set screws, using a round tooth pick, and had put it aside for a couple days to let it soak.

Hope to have some precision welding done on the shaft, tomorrow.
It's got a wobbley toggley looseness just above the top plastic nut around the shaft and a bunch of dumb pop rivets that don't seem to be holding the inner sleeve piece properly. The upper shaft had been bent, possibly an attempt at custom fit? so I don't feel it will be a loss to weld it solid. Also going to look for stock to make a straight shaft from.

Thanks again Everett!
 
Hey MPTR, If you want a REASONABLY PRICED Custom STRAIGHT SHAFT with an EXCELLENT CLIP ON/OFF Detector Stand, go over to the SOVEREIGN/EXCALIBUR Forum, and click on to R & L Enterprises. He is also known as RICK (ND) on that forum, and the WHITES MXT Forum. He is a sponsor on the FINDMALL Forums, and a Multi-Line Detector Dealer. Tell him, that I sent you, and ask him, if he can ORDER YOU one of PLUGGER'S
Custom Straight Shafts for the model FISHER CZ that you have. Plugger makes custom straight shafts for I BELIEVE just about Every Make/Model Detector.
All of Plugger's Shafts are VERY WELL MADE, and REASONABLY PRICED!! Hope this helps, hh, Les Robinson
 
Thanks Les,
Will check it out!
I've determined my coil/cable is bad, so am looking for a 10 1/2, first....
HH
rmptr
 
I have cleaned my CZ-6 in preparation for spring but still need a smart way to "frictionize" its Knobs.
They are moved way too easily. I asked Fisher to fix this problem on a previous repair but did nothing
to tighten the knobs. I used small rubber bands for several years but there must be a better way.
 
Some have done well with small washers from a hardware store. Simply remove with a small allen wrench that can be had at any hardware store and add the washer...going to have to experiment with several thickness washers as you want it snug so not easily moved while hunting but not too tight where it would cause premature life of the internal knob components...
 
Hi Mailman, You can DISCONNECT the Control Box, take one or two knobs off, then take the CONTROL BOX to a Local Auto Parts Store. SHOW THEM the
Control Stems without the knobs on them, and ask them for SOME O-RINGS, that will FIT OVER THE CONTROL STEMS!! Try one O-RING First, replace the knob, and see if that is TIGHT ENOUGH to suit you!! IF NOT, ADD A Second O-Ring ONTO THE SAME STEM, WHICH SHOULD REALLY MAKE IT A
TIGHT FIT!! If that does not work, I don't know what to tell you!! BEST OF LUCK, hh, Les Robinson
 
This is NOT a problem for CZ, or Fisher alone.LOL
My 'under repair' CZ-6has a few easily jostle knobs,
but my Tesoro machines, well, they almost move in the breeze!

TrueValue hardware chain stores maintain an excellent selection of small items such as O-rings and screws.

It has just dawned on me that perhaps an O-ring between a couple mica or fiber washers might be a nice touch.

Stacking a few small washers with a sandwiched O-ring might be better than simply adding O-rings.

I used a round toothpick to apply a very small drop of penetrating oil to the set screws on my knobs a few days before taking the allen wrench to them.

HH
 
Thanks guys. O-rings why didn't I think of that? Anyone else having trouble keeping the detector from
tipping over when you set it down?
 
[size=x-large]YES![/size]
[size=medium][/size]
Watcha gonna do with a bent crank and top mounted control box?
...Even my bent crank with undermounted control box MD's tip over...

There's a couple different support methods out there.
One kind fastens to the rod, and comes down to a Y, another clips on to extend out from the arm cuffs a bit further.
I think I've seen others that are like a PVC cap that go on bottom of a whites rear hanging control box.

I've just allowed mine to get scuffed...
Yet, I put a piece of packing tape over the speaker, to try and keep some sand out.

Hope someone comes along with a tippy fix they like!
HH
 
did u replace the battery's? that happened 2 me today the unit started acting crazy replaced the battery's and works fine (this unit is the CZ6a)
 
Hi rr,
Yes, battery replacement was the first thing I did...

But since you've mentioned it, I'm going to re-check those 'new' batteries with my vom, just to verify they are top notch before proceeding any further. It is TOO easy to re-check them, so why not DO IT!

My VOM has a battery load tester that has proven effective on other machines... I'd strongly prefer an 8 pack of AA cells to the pair of 9.6 volt cells in my CZ-6A, but that's what we get to work with!

I'm taking my time sprucing up this machine, as I have high hopes for it.
My other machines work quite well, but this one... well, it's a Fisher.

My coil is an 8".
I'm still looking for a 10 1/2 or 5" coil in reliable condition.

Thanks rr,
Gonna do it, now!
rmptr
 
For loose control knobs, try regular ol' fiber washers from the hardware store. Trim 'em to size and use more than one for extra depth.

leather_washer.jpg
 
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