MXT help

[Jeff in MI]

I am still having a difficult time eliminating pop-tops, pull-tabs, metal jar lids, and crushed old cans. These items seem to give

 

[Anonymous]

I just recently got my MXT. Used a Minelab for 4 years, finally got tired of the weight. Anyway, have you tried the relic mode and then going up on the DISC instead of leaving it at "0"? I'm going to try it later today, as I'm having the same problem you are.

 

[Jeff in MI]

I have tried that. But I find that when I spot an object, in order to get better info. I click over to Coin Mode just to find out that it is trash.
The tings that I have been doing, as mentioned in previus post, seems to working very well. I feel that with more time, I will be able to read the info. very very well.

 

[Richard@BackwoodsDetectors]

Hey Jeff, It is very hard for any detector to distinguish between these types of targets since they are non-ferrous and the response to the receiver coil is similiar to a good target.Increasing the discrimination will eliminate pulltabs,aluminum,etc. but you will lose nickels,zinc and IH pennies,most jewelry, and gold. This is pretty much true with any detector except those with the best notch and/or a precise VDI number designation. What I do is drop my discrimination to just below nickel and dig it all. You get everything but the smallest of rings and earrings but you must dig the trash to get the goodies. Have fun, the MXT is an awesome machine and worth every minute to learn it. RichardnTn

 

[Jeff in MI]

n/t

 

[Glenn(SD)]

If you're going to dig it all, isn't it just a waste of money to buy a machine that cost over 150-200 dollars?

 

[Anonymous]

Overall, I have done very well with the MXT. Of all the machines that I have tried, the MXT is by far the best for me. The Minelabs were just way to heavy and way to slow for me.

 

[Anonymous]

When in doubt, I dig. But, I try to eliminate the doubt.

 

[Royce_OR]

I hunt primarily for coin/jewelry rather than relics. I use a probe (mine is a 3/16-in pointed brass rod mounted in a file handle [brass being less damaging to targets than steel]) to "feel" and hear the targets (assuming they are shallow enough in soft enough ground, and that I can locate them). I can usually tell by the size, surface texture, and sound whether to pursue further. A nice crisp "tink" usually is a coin. Large soft metal objects are distinctly different. Rocks have their own qualities. Scrap pop-can metal or tabs I can pierce. Items that "feel" or sound categorically different I dig per chance of jewelry. This procedure is somewhat subjective and not totally fool proof, but provides extended data for making my decisions whether to dig.

Royce in Oregon

 

[Richard@BackwoodsDetectors]

being a relic hunter for almost 30 years. When I do hunt coins, I usually dig non-ferrous targets. If I chose to do otherwise, I have the machine to do so. Lots of fun and ya just can't tell what you'll find. HH Richardntn

 

[Jackpine Savage]

IMO the Pro XL has the best meter system. Where I hunt I dig it all but for open park hunting with moderate trash its hard to beat the XL Pro for sorting the trash from treasure.

HH Tom

 

[Richard@BackwoodsDetectors]

Tom, I have to agree. When the XL Pro says it's a coin, 9 outta 10 times, it is. Hard to beat...Richardntn

 

[Anonymous]

I use the MXT in relic mode, center switch position. I set the discrimination to the 3 o'clock position, so all clad, copper, zinc, & silver will give a high tone. Nickels & most junk will be low tone. I turn up the sensitivity all the way or close. I ground balance, then usually lock, as this sometimes gives slightly more stable IDs & maybe slightly stronger signal. This works good in trash. Only have to look at meter if trying for nickels & gold. Sometimes do, sometimes don't. The nickels when shallow lock on 18, jump 18-20, or lock on 20. Modern pulltabs read 22 or higher, except bent ones can read 20. The old steel bottlecaps can signal as coin, but with short fast sweep in track position, numerical ID will go down (if a coin, ID will likely stay the same. Screwcaps often ID about 70-75, zincs 55-75, copper 76-80. And the screwcap will be wider in pinpoint & screwcaps (shallow) more likely to give overload indication. Cans can ID as quarter, but wider in pinpoint & also can try raising coil. If depth reading doesn't increase by 1" for each inch you raise it & you're still getting signal a foot in the air, it's too big for coin. Detecting in new places, I just stick screwdriver in ground various spots near each other & can tell if it's a can that way. If you remove dirt to the displayed depth & signal is still in center of hole, it's probably biggger than a coin. HH, George (MN)

 

[Anonymous]

n/t

 

[Monte]

It's still my favorite for open area searches. Stock 950 is fine for that, but I prefer the thin-profile ProScan 800 8" coil as I like the solid bottom design in short, stiff weedy sites.

Monte