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More on the Classics witn M.B. Mods.

Ronk

Active member
Howdy! Several years ago I bought a Classic 3SL from Monte with the M-B's mods and I love this detector! Mine has a toggle to switch the auto re-tune to a very slow re-tune and it will let me hover over the target a lot longer before the signal dies.It makes pinpointing very easy even though it pinpoints easy enough in disc mode anyway.Setting it up in Black Sand mode and min or no disc is the way to go with this machine.It handles mineral ground extremely well and hits the low conductors a lot better.I used the black sand mode to go over places I have already been before and found good low conductors with ease that I missed with the switch in normal mode and low disc. This detector has been under rated for a long time but now I'm glad that more people are starting to give it another chance especially with the Mr Bill's Mods.When I bought mine from Monte I also bought a 5.5 high energy ferrett coil to use on it 6.59KHZ and it is killer around iron and trash.It pinpoints dead on and can get in between trash to pick out goodies with no problem.That coil gets just about the same depth as the stock 9.5.There are also lots of coils to choose from for the C3SL.The depth is also top notch with this setup in my ground. The balance can't be beat with smaller coils.I can hunt all day without my arm falling off.The battery life is also the best there is.About 80 hrs with headphones and maybe 50 to 70 without. I don't have any trouble finding small jewelery or nickels.I found a nice silver dime and wartime nickels where other machines have been over before while I was using the C3SL modified.The external GB makes a world of difference. It's a great all around machine,easy to setup,lots of coil options,quality built,and great clear audio.Give it try and see for yourself.
Ronk
 
Ronk said:
Howdy! Several years ago I bought a Classic 3SL from Monte with the M-B's mods and I love this detector! Mine has a toggle to switch the auto re-tune to a very slow re-tune and it will let me hover over the target a lot longer before the signal dies.It makes pinpointing very easy even though it pinpoints easy enough in disc mode anyway.
I would sure like to see how that was done. I am not a fan of fast re-tuning. My Classic ID has it and I would prefer the switch....

Setting it up in Black Sand mode and min or no disc is the way to go with this machine. It handles mineral ground extremely well and hits the low conductors a lot better. I used the black sand mode to go over places I have already been before and found good low conductors with ease that I missed with the switch in normal mode and low disc."[/quote said:
I am not eager to run around in absolute minimum DISC all the time, but once a site is cleared and I feel there is enough potential to keep me coming back, then I can see it. I wonder if I can ad the Black Sand function to my Classic ID?
If it is like the rest of it's kin, the function exists on the circuit board - it just needs to be brought out.

This detector has been under rated for a long time but now I'm glad that more people are starting to give it another chance said:
I tend to agree. I don't find it to be "The Ultimate" detector, but it is at least adequate and I find myself reaching for it more and more.

When I bought mine from Monte said:
I just got a 6" Blue Max for mine and havent yet had a chance to try it. I note in my little test area that it lacks a bit of depth compared to the 8" ProScan, but I dont know how that will pan out in the field.
The weight and balance is different from the 8" coil, that is sure. I find neither to be off-putting, though.
Monte has mentioned that the balance ad heft of the Classics keeps your sweeps under control when compared to lighter weight instruments and I certainly agree. Everything about it is smooth and balanced.


The battery life is also the best there is. About 80 hrs with headphones and maybe 50 to 70 without. I don't have any trouble finding small jewelery or nickels. I found a nice silver dime and wartime nickels where other machines have been over before while I was using the C3SL modified. The external GB makes a world of difference. It's a great all around machine said:
One of the best things is the assortment of coils, all at reasonable cost. You can have an entire battery of coils with lower rods, in fact, for the cost of one coil for some of the newer models out there.
You also made no mention of the ID display - since your C3 lacks one. Let me just say that on those Classic models that have a TID, it is both fast and accurate. Iron is a no-brainer with the display. Only the worst offenders, the largish chunks that tend to fool most detectors, get by. Trash in general, even when it gives a decent audio, is normally identifiable by it's reaction on the display.
Yeah, the Classics are indeed, classic.

PS.... and Whites hasn't done away with them, to their credit - they now have the 'Classic 5ID,' made for the proprietary trade (Kellyco, etc.). Essentially the same model as any other Classic, the frequency is changed to take advantage of the new range of Eclipse coils, I believe.
 
The modified Classic III SL is one I favor to all other non-display models, such as Tesoro's, for all purpose hunting.

Sure would like to see White's bring back two or three "Classic" performance models, with manyual GB, Threshold, and a variable Tone control, :)

Monte
 
I would be more than willing to modify your unit as I did for this one.

Setting it up in Black Sand mode and min or no disc is the way to go with this machine. It handles mineral ground extremely well and hits the low conductors a lot better. I used the black sand mode to go over places I have already been before and found good low conductors with ease that I missed with the switch in normal mode and low disc

If it is like the rest of it's kin, the function exists on the circuit board - it just needs to be brought out.

The Black Sand function does not exist on the circuit board. It needs to have components added.
The circuit of the Classic ID, is a different circuit that the Classic III that Ronk has. Combined with the Black Sand circuitry, it allows a lower level of discrimination not obtainable on a Classic ID.


PS.... and Whites hasn't done away with them, to their credit - they now have the 'Classic 5ID,' made for the proprietary trade (Kellyco, etc.). Essentially the same model as any other Classic, the frequency is changed to take advantage of the new range of Eclipse coils, I believe.

The Classic 5 ID is a Classic ID with a frequency change. Not a Classic III or a Classic IDX, or a IDX Pro.
 
That's right, Monte, I knew it was something higher. Thanks.
As much as I like detecting, I can't remember all the details.Thats what is great about having a group like this one - someone will know, sparing my few remaining brain cells for the important stuff.
 
Mr.Bill said:
I would be more than willing to modify your unit as I did for this one.

Setting it up in Black Sand mode and min or no disc is the way to go with this machine. It handles mineral ground extremely well and hits the low conductors a lot better. I used the black sand mode to go over places I have already been before and found good low conductors with ease that I missed with the switch in normal mode and low disc

If it is like the rest of it's kin, the function exists on the circuit board - it just needs to be brought out.

The Black Sand function does not exist on the circuit board. It needs to have components added.
The circuit of the Classic ID, is a different circuit that the Classic III that Ronk has. Combined with the Black Sand circuitry, it allows a lower level of discrimination not obtainable on a Classic ID.


PS.... and Whites hasn't done away with them, to their credit - they now have the 'Classic 5ID,' made for the proprietary trade (Kellyco, etc.). Essentially the same model as any other Classic, the frequency is changed to take advantage of the new range of Eclipse coils, I believe.

The Classic 5 ID is a Classic ID with a frequency change. Not a Classic III or a Classic IDX, or a IDX Pro.
Again, thanks Mr. Bill. You guys keep the rest of us straight.
 
It's easy to get a tad bit mixed up with all the darn near identical detectors.

For all practical purposes the Classics are basically all the same. They did make some difference between them. The Classic III & the IDX/IDX Pro are the same. The Classic II & the Classic ID are paired. Yes you can make the Classic II & ID perform like the Classic III & IDX/IDX Pro. When we do the mods, what gets done gives them the same umph, but there is some subtle differences like the discrimination.
 
Mr.Bill said:
It's easy to get a tad bit mixed up with all the darn near identical detectors.

For all practical purposes the Classics are basically all the same. They did make some difference between them. The Classic III & the IDX/IDX Pro are the same. The Classic II & the Classic ID are paired. Yes you can make the Classic II & ID perform like the Classic III & IDX/IDX Pro. When we do the mods, what gets done gives them the same umph, but there is some subtle differences like the discrimination.
For the sake of clarity, Bill, would you describe the precise differences in the Classic ID, the one I have. I know about he black sand and frequency additions - you and I have talked about this on the phone in the past. But, the fog in my brain has kinda taken up residence, and I cant remember everything.

I have a Classic ID that has been modded for GB/THRESH/SENS by you, now. I dont go to the beach, nor have much use that I know of for the black sand business. So, IS there anything more that can be done to this unit that would be both practical and beneficial?
 
I tried a little test on my Mr. Bill modded Classic ID, with 6
 
Hey Monte! It's been awhile.As you can see I am still using the Classic-3SL I got from you several years ago and it is still a great detector in My book! I love the auto-tune-speed mod. It really makes a big difference to keep the signal from fading too soon.Besides.I use all metal mode a lot when conditions permit.Ever since I bought this detector from you I have learned all the difference sounds it is telling me and can predict very often what's under the coil.The external GB is one thing that was really needed and the external threshold. Now when I change different size or type coils I can tweak the machine just right for performance.I have had metered machines before but I always like to learn the audio of a detector.This one has one of clearest and pleasant audio to listen to.I don't remember what the audio freq is but it's just right for my ears.There are so many coil options for this detector.It's easy to find one to get the job done.The only mod I have done to it which can easily be reversed is I moved the disc knob on the top left side on the handle next to my thumb.I remembered you told my several years ago that you are not a fan of thumbing the disc,but I don't have to use my other hand to change the disc to see where a target falls out.I can check all targets very fast with the disc next to my thumb.I can scan a target and thumb the disc at the same time.Anyway,I hope others get a chance to get theirs modified with the switch for the auto re-tune mod.It's a great mod for the Classic 3SL and others.
Ronk
 
The "Black Sand" switch is really a mis-marked control. What it really does is shift the discrimination range lower. Shifted lower, it allows a full range of discrimination adjustment that does not happen on the Classic II or Classic ID.

There are some subtle differences in the circuit components that favor the Classic III & IDX in performance.

The Classic III & IDX/IDX Pro come with the 9.5" coil, giving a bit more depth than with the 8" coil on the Classic II & ID.
 
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