Not to long ago these two men really exchanged thoughts and ideas on the use of the IDX Pro. Between these men there had to be 10 or more replies on the Pro. What an exchange of words and opinion's they offered. I bookmarked this post and some how it was deleated. I have gone thru the forums, Metal Detecting and white's main form with no luck. If anyone knows where I can find it, please let me know for the information is priceless.
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Monte & Mr.Bill Question
- Thread starter Mount_Isa
- Start date
RELIC_HUNTER
New member
I remember them going at it, like one trying to out do the other on what they knew about the Pro....[ Take This, No , You Take That ] 
have always been glad to help others learn, and appreciate, some of White's all-time better detector models. Personally, aside from some current offerings, I consider White's XLT, 6000 Pro XL/XL Pro, and the Coinmaster Classic III, CM Classic III Plus, and the latter version Classic II, Classic III SL, Classic ID and IDX Pro to be some of their best detectors. My first 'best' White's was the GhostTowner BFO I started using in the summer of '68 as my first factory-built detector. It wouldn't hold a candle to anything since then, but it was the best for hunting up a lot of silver and other older coinage after three years of home-built detectors.
Anyway, too many people haven't appreciated the Classic ID and IDX Pro because they had a very simple, yet efficient, Target ID display but lack Battery Check, Coin Depth, and VDI numeric read-out, etc., etc. I will include many typical smaller-size Dealers for not helping to learn and promote the Classic series, too. They mainly used the upper-end models, such as the XLT, and carried only a few detectors in stock, and the Classic series were not all there or promoted.
'Mr. Bill' also caught on to the Classic series as I had encouraged many to use a Classic for different applications, along with my XLT and XL Pro's, and Bill took things one step farther in making a very versatile detector. He did his now famous and desired "Mr. Bill Modifications" to add an external Threshold control and external 1-turn Ground Balance control. Those additions are always helpful, but especially on the Classic III Plus, Classic III SL and IDX Pro because those models feature a Frequency Shift control. Also, Bill hunted those east coast beaches where it was beneficial to have manual GB to deal with the changing beach conditions.
The Frequency Shift is, in theory, helpful when you're hunting close to another 6.59 kHz model and get interference. It allows you to quickly adjust off-frequency to cancel the noise and continue to hunt. Well, sort of. The problem with the Frequency Shift control is that if it is adjusted away from the desired 'factory preset' marker, it also shifts the Ground Balance setting. If the GB is shifted too negatively, the result is a lot of falsing in the motion Discriminate mode, especially if hunting in a more iron mineralized environment.
The solution? Have an external GB control to quickly re-set the Ground Balance. Once you've moved on away from the offending source, you can reset the Frequency Shift back to the preset marker and, again, quickly adjust the GB. It only takes about 5-to-10 seconds to make the shift and re-balance. There are other suggestions we have made to help others learn some of the control functions, such as the purpose of the Normal/Black Sand toggle, or how to adjust the Disc. level based on the toggle selection. Also reminders that the Classic series are 2-filter types and need a slow sweep, not a fast-motion sweep.
I have also put out some posts on how to Power Balance the Classic models. This is a technique I have used for over thirty years to adjust the GB for peak performance with the discriminate mode, especially the silent-search types, and with the Classic series you need to have a very slightly positive GB in All Metal. If it is "spot on" or slightly negative, the Classic will experience falsing in the Disc. mode.
I can tell you that it would be difficult to find all of the posts and comments Bill or I have made about the Classic series, and others as well. Often we have seen others post almost cut-and-paste replies of something we have done in the past.
The best way to get questions answered about the Classic ID, or any Classic model (or other detectors for that matter), is to simply post a question on the forums. I am sure you'll get the answers. Then get out and use the IDX Pro as I am also sure you will make some good finds!
Monte
Anyway, too many people haven't appreciated the Classic ID and IDX Pro because they had a very simple, yet efficient, Target ID display but lack Battery Check, Coin Depth, and VDI numeric read-out, etc., etc. I will include many typical smaller-size Dealers for not helping to learn and promote the Classic series, too. They mainly used the upper-end models, such as the XLT, and carried only a few detectors in stock, and the Classic series were not all there or promoted.
'Mr. Bill' also caught on to the Classic series as I had encouraged many to use a Classic for different applications, along with my XLT and XL Pro's, and Bill took things one step farther in making a very versatile detector. He did his now famous and desired "Mr. Bill Modifications" to add an external Threshold control and external 1-turn Ground Balance control. Those additions are always helpful, but especially on the Classic III Plus, Classic III SL and IDX Pro because those models feature a Frequency Shift control. Also, Bill hunted those east coast beaches where it was beneficial to have manual GB to deal with the changing beach conditions.
The Frequency Shift is, in theory, helpful when you're hunting close to another 6.59 kHz model and get interference. It allows you to quickly adjust off-frequency to cancel the noise and continue to hunt. Well, sort of. The problem with the Frequency Shift control is that if it is adjusted away from the desired 'factory preset' marker, it also shifts the Ground Balance setting. If the GB is shifted too negatively, the result is a lot of falsing in the motion Discriminate mode, especially if hunting in a more iron mineralized environment.
The solution? Have an external GB control to quickly re-set the Ground Balance. Once you've moved on away from the offending source, you can reset the Frequency Shift back to the preset marker and, again, quickly adjust the GB. It only takes about 5-to-10 seconds to make the shift and re-balance. There are other suggestions we have made to help others learn some of the control functions, such as the purpose of the Normal/Black Sand toggle, or how to adjust the Disc. level based on the toggle selection. Also reminders that the Classic series are 2-filter types and need a slow sweep, not a fast-motion sweep.
I have also put out some posts on how to Power Balance the Classic models. This is a technique I have used for over thirty years to adjust the GB for peak performance with the discriminate mode, especially the silent-search types, and with the Classic series you need to have a very slightly positive GB in All Metal. If it is "spot on" or slightly negative, the Classic will experience falsing in the Disc. mode.
I can tell you that it would be difficult to find all of the posts and comments Bill or I have made about the Classic series, and others as well. Often we have seen others post almost cut-and-paste replies of something we have done in the past.
The best way to get questions answered about the Classic ID, or any Classic model (or other detectors for that matter), is to simply post a question on the forums. I am sure you'll get the answers. Then get out and use the IDX Pro as I am also sure you will make some good finds!
Monte
woodchiphustler
New member
Two of my favorite people.