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Monte Manual for Omega 8000
- Thread starter Lonetree
- Start date
huntindog1
Member
Someone sent me this stuff when I had an omega.
Always use center or heel of coil to check targets. There is limited depth in the toe section of the concentric / 11" DD coils.
Silver Dollar + 5" Coil
If Sens is set to 60, reads coins to about 5". If I set Sens to 90+, there is a considerable increase up to 9-10". It appears that half's & dollar's read shallow unless high Sens is used. At 60 Sens a dime reads approx as deep as a dollar/half.
Dime +Iron Nail + 5" Coil
Place dime approx 1" from nail. You will get a bouncing low-high reading, with the high ranging in upper 70's to 90's. If a pulltab is substituted for the dime, then the high range goes from the high 50's to low 70's.
Flattened Bud Light BC + 5" Coil
When the heel edge is even with or up to 1" past the bottlecap the numbers will drop to 70's-60's-50's and sometimes the teen's (do not always get the teen readings though). But the tip off is is that in doing multiple edge sweeps (remember you may have to go up to 1" past the bottlecap to get this effect) is that the ID number 99 will appear. Sometimes only one time. But it appears.
The dime will also have large fluctuating readings like bcaps with the edge technique, but there are two things it won't do. It doesn't go into the teen numbers and the 99 ID never occurs.
Rusty BC+ Dime + Concentric Coil
Targets 3" apart. Swing at one angle (north) and get a solid 81-84 signal in each swing direction. Change position 180
Always use center or heel of coil to check targets. There is limited depth in the toe section of the concentric / 11" DD coils.
Silver Dollar + 5" Coil
If Sens is set to 60, reads coins to about 5". If I set Sens to 90+, there is a considerable increase up to 9-10". It appears that half's & dollar's read shallow unless high Sens is used. At 60 Sens a dime reads approx as deep as a dollar/half.
Dime +Iron Nail + 5" Coil
Place dime approx 1" from nail. You will get a bouncing low-high reading, with the high ranging in upper 70's to 90's. If a pulltab is substituted for the dime, then the high range goes from the high 50's to low 70's.
Flattened Bud Light BC + 5" Coil
When the heel edge is even with or up to 1" past the bottlecap the numbers will drop to 70's-60's-50's and sometimes the teen's (do not always get the teen readings though). But the tip off is is that in doing multiple edge sweeps (remember you may have to go up to 1" past the bottlecap to get this effect) is that the ID number 99 will appear. Sometimes only one time. But it appears.
The dime will also have large fluctuating readings like bcaps with the edge technique, but there are two things it won't do. It doesn't go into the teen numbers and the 99 ID never occurs.
Rusty BC+ Dime + Concentric Coil
Targets 3" apart. Swing at one angle (north) and get a solid 81-84 signal in each swing direction. Change position 180
huntindog1
Member
Now a "personal bias" comment: of all the machines we (FTP-Fisher) make, the Omega is my favorite regardless of price. July 2010
Dave J.
Q. Does the Omega need to be re-ground balanced each time the sensitivity is changed? I know that on some detectors you have to.
Ronk
A. On the Omega, changing the sensitivity setting does not affect the ground balance.
Dave J.
Remember..........the tones are 'master'.........and the meter is 'slave'. The meter will always parallel the tone (and not the other way around).
NASA-Tom
The Omega can have some EMI issues, yet, with proper freq selection and sweeping the coil......... and the EMI almost always goes away.
NASA-Tom
F-75 Ground Balance
Pull the trigger in the air (Omega
Dave J.
Q. Does the Omega need to be re-ground balanced each time the sensitivity is changed? I know that on some detectors you have to.
Ronk
A. On the Omega, changing the sensitivity setting does not affect the ground balance.
Dave J.
Remember..........the tones are 'master'.........and the meter is 'slave'. The meter will always parallel the tone (and not the other way around).
NASA-Tom
The Omega can have some EMI issues, yet, with proper freq selection and sweeping the coil......... and the EMI almost always goes away.
NASA-Tom
F-75 Ground Balance
Pull the trigger in the air (Omega
huntindog1
Member
Omega at hunted out site with 11
huntindog1
Member
Low-Boy V3i
g2 and Gold Bug
Reply Quote Report
Re: 5" coil is awesome in trash
Posted by: Low-Boy/LCPM [ Send a Message ]
Date: May 24, 2010 11:14PM
Registered: 6 years ago
Posts: 1,575
Forget the 10" get the 11"DD and the 8000 comes alive
Re: Accessing Boost & Cache Mode
Posted by: Cal_Cobra [ Send a Message ]
Date: September 02, 2010 12:52PM
Registered: 3 years ago
Posts: 1,905
Monte the point I was trying to make was that it seems that aside from the Tek Greek series, First Texas is heavily tilted towards relic hunting vs coin shooting. Even with the flag ship F75 LTD, it's tough trying to keep up with the Etrac working trashy parks for deep and/or masked silver. It's not that the Etrac is deeper then the LTD, because it's not, but it's TID locks on better, and it has an uncanny ability to sniff out coins in trash. Can the F75 LTD do this? Yes it can, it depends on the trash. The F75 is great in iron, but it has problems with bottle caps (which the Etrac does really well with) which litter many old inner city parks. I know most machines with DD coils encounter problems with bottle caps, but Minelab was able to jump ahead of the pack on this nuisance (it's not perfect, but it's good). Definitely their multifrequency FBS technology plays a critical part in it's success finding silver, as well as vetting out bottle caps (one reason I'd love to see FT bring back multifrequency technology). I feel the Omega has an advantage on deeper silver dimes over the F75, probably due to the frequency differences, but there may be other reasons as well (the O8 TID seems to be less erratic in general IMHO). Don't get me wrong, I like my O8 & F75 LTD, and I really don't want a 5lb Etrac to lug around, but it has merit for certain hunting scenarios - mainly deep turf silver hunting.
Some of the trashy parks I work, I can't really imagine hunting in two tone, as your eyes would be glued to the screen the entire time. Perhaps I should give it a try with the Omega and see how it does trying to pick silver out of the slew of pull-tabs (the O8 does great picking silver out of pull-tabs) and bottle caps (definitely need the stock Omega coil for that or perhaps the 5" DD).
I always run my LTD in boost mode, I don't see much reason not to. In my opinion cache mode is more of a novelty, but it's a great concept for those that might be inclined to do cache hunting or are looking for big deep targets and don't want to buy a two box machine or such. It's a very different process, and thus far I don't believe it's proven, but boost mode is an entirely different story. Very sound technology and very beneficial. If we had boost mode on the Omega, I guarantee that it would be an amazing machine (and it's already a great machine).
Definitely the GB is geared towards it's intended prospecting purpose, BUT I've been reading a lot of great feedback concerning it's iron see thru, and wet salt sand beach hunting capabilities as well. It might well be the latest FT sleeper like the Omega. Will it be a depth demon on deep silver dimes, quarters and small copper.....probably not, BUT if it can pick them out of heavy iron better then everything else out there, it certainly has capabilities the other machines don't, regardless of their marketed purpose. Also it's reported ability to punch through bad dirt is a BIG plus. A lot of other high end machines fall down in this area, even the F75 LTD to a great extent (the FBS Etrac has the advantage in mineralized ground)
Omega 8000 question??
Posted by: tj3445 [ Send a Message ]
Date: August 26, 2010 08:43PM
Registered: 10 months ago
Posts: 4
Can some of the more experienced O8K users enlighten me on how best to use the iron signal meter in the top right corner?? Any info will be much appreciated.
Reply Quote Report
Re: Omega 8000 question??
Posted by: txquest [ Send a Message ]
Date: August 27, 2010 07:12PM
Registered: 1 year ago
Posts: 82
tj3445, I am assuming you are asking about the Fe3O4 bargraph which measures ground mineralization. Scroll back thru the forum and check out posts by Bubbadirect on 06-07 and Monte on 04-26 on this subject. Txquest
Reply Quote Report
Re: Omega 8000 question??
Posted by: Jackpine Savage [ Send a Message ]
Date: August 27, 2010 09:01PM
Registered: 6 years ago
Posts: 2,841
The Fe304 meter is mainly there to alert the user when the ground mineralization is extreme so that you can adjust the detector and your hunt style to suit conditions. Ground readings are only accurate when bobbing the coil over target free ground. Ground reading bars showing up while detecting are mostly caused by the coil going over metal targets. Except when doing the ground grab procedure I seldom glance at the Fe bar graph since the most I have ever seen in my area is 2 bars and that was one rare occassion over a small area of ground.
Knowing the iron mineralization of the ground is important because high mineralization can cause depth loss and non-ferrous targets to read down in the iron range. Since the discrimination mode(s) on the Omega are silent search, meaning no background threshold hum, without the bar graph meter as an alert most would never know when they are dealing with high mineralization.
Tom
Re: F75LTD vs Omega for coin shooting
November 23, 2010 10:20AM
Registered: 3 years ago
Posts: 182
It depends on the site. Most places I prefer the Omega over the F75 LTD for coin hunting. I have one site where the LTD is as good, on the others I tend to dig too many "ghost signals" with the LTD. None of that with the Omega. For the best depth you have to watch the GB on the Omega, as it is less forgiving and you will lose some depth if it isn't set right... but on medium depth to shallow coins the Omega is absoultely deadly. I was at a hard hunted park last week and hit a small spot with three nickels... two buffalos and a V.. the Omega was perfect on them. I like the 11" coil better than the 10" but I don't yet have the 5" coil.
Personally, I would choose the Omega over the LTD everytime for coin hunting.
I have a friend who has an Omega. He also has a minnie buried at 10" in his yard. It has been buried there for about 21 yrs. His Omega will hit it and ID it with the 10" coil... (if the GB is set right). Many detectors won't hit it and some that do wont ID it correctly. My LTD would not correctly ID it, neither would his. The V3 will hit it, ID it and stop you in your tracks.. so will the E-TRAC. I have not personally seen how the Omega hits it but he told me it does well.
Jbow
The LTD is a great machine but in Calif it can have its ups and downs. For coin hunting I would go for the Omega and it is a great relic hunter. You can't just hunt with one machine all of the time...well I guess you can but the hobby has so much to offer why not two. I love the Omega and it did really well in iron and found me an old gun...that the LTD misssed..Different freq can make a difference on coins.
LowBoy
Omega EMI vs G2
I know air tests dont say a lot but I did air tests on all of my machines...g2 at full sensativity don't hit as deep as Omega 8000 set at 55.I set both machines as high as I could for testing inside and still be stable. Actually the Omega with sens set at 55 was hitting coins as deep as my mxt pro (set to +2 almost max sens) was in air tests indoors. I was very happy with those results. I've never had a machine that would go nuts at high sens settings like the Omega does and was worried I wouldn't get the depth due to using a much lower setting...however I was very wrong.
Basstrackerman
Using Higher Gain
By working the MXT (any detector) at the higher gain settings you will hear a stronger audio response that will be more saturated, and that means a stronger (louder) audio from 'deeper' targets and more signal for processing. This could result in more TID information being conveyed.
Threshold on Omega 8000 built into Sensitivity Control
What do you all think regarding the Omega (relative to the Fisher F5) implementing the threshold into the sensitivity control?
Earthmansurfer
I am confused on something regarding this. In the post below M. Hillis says the gain is from 1 to 70 and above 70 the threshold kicks in. Does the gain still increase after 70 or is it just the threshold that is increasing? (I've seen people post the latter). BTW - My Omega runs very quiet at even 99 sensitivity most of the time so I'm a bit perplexed by the term "threshold" here as I thought threshold was a hum and not just boosting weak audio signals. I imagine testing would need to be done to verify this.
What do you all think regarding the Omega (relative to the Fisher F5) implementing the threshold into the sensitivity control?
Quote
The Omega manual states that the Sensitivity control combines the Gain and threshold controls into one rotary dial. There is no independent threshold control on the Omega. The Gain settings are located in the range of 1 through 70 and settings above 70 through 99 activate the threshold settings. The threshold range of the Sensitivity setting increases the audio output making the weaker signals louder and easier to hear much like the +1 through +9 Threshold settings on the F5. This has its pluses and minuses. For one thing, the gain setting has a finer adjustment range and the high gain settings are very sensitive. If you can get this high in the field, moving up into the threshold range will give you an increased audio output on the weaker signals. The bad thing is that not only are all signals multiplied by the high gain settings to get here in the first place, they are also made louder by the threshold feature. The stability enjoyed by the F5 combinations are not available on the Omega. It is still as sensitive, just not as adaptable. Stop and think about this. Before I can use the threshold feature of the Sensitivity control, I have to max out the Gain setting. There is no flexibility. I only have a on or off arrangement. The added benefits of the threshold are only available if I can max out the gain. Second, I can only increase the threshold settings. I cant decrease them. Additionally, there is no sensitivity control for the all metal auto tune mode on the Omega. In the all metal mode, the sensitivity control now becomes a Threshold control. Raising the sensitivity settings increase the audio volume of the threshold hum, high sensitivity setting = very loud hum. Mike Hillis
Earthmansurfer, the "Threshold" adjustment for the All Metal Auto-Tune mode is made using the Sensitivity control on your Omega 8000. The variable gain/sensitivity for the Discriminate mode is a somewhat different function and, yes, it can be run at '99' when there isn't any nearby EMI. I always run my Sensitivity as high as possible while remaining stable, but only in the motion-based Discriminate mode.
In the auto-tuned All Metal mode, the Omega will be operating at "full gain possible" when you have adjusted for a slight audio 'hum' or Threshold setting. That will often be somewhere between about '68' and '72' depending upon the headphones used or outside ambient noise if you're relying on the detector's speaker w/o headphones. When I hunt in All Metal, which I do from time-to-time, I'm usually set at about '69'-'70'-'71' as it's all rather close and it works fine for me. Roughly, you can just call it '70' and be close.
Note that on Page 12 of your Owner's manual, under Sensitivity, sub-part d. it states:
"The Sensitivity has two ranges. From 0 to 70, the sensitivity increases on a linear scale. At 71 and above the sensitivity threshold level starts changing. At values greater than 70, some internal circuit noise will be noticed. the higher the number, the higher the background "static" will be. Many seasoned detectorists prefer to operate at a high sensitivity/threshold level, with the accompanying noise. They call this "working into the noise." When some background level of noise is audible, small changes in the volume and tone will denote the presence of buried metal."
Note, however, that it doesn't state which operating "mode" you are in when this adjustment is made, except the next category is the Discriminate/AT Autotune description and the a. instruction tells you to:
"Click counterclockwise to the AT icon to enter the Auto Tune mode."
So, as I am working on an operators manual of my own design, I hope to clarify and make sure everything is clear. By the Page 12 suggestions, at this point, it is a little confusing to many I'm sure. As a rule I describe the Sensitivity control a bit differently and the above description would be applied to searches made in the Discriminate mode. As instructed on Page #11 under "Powering Up" they suggest keeping the sensitivity below 70 until you become comfortable with the detector's operation. Again, this is because most people will search mainly in the motion Discriminate mode (generally "silent search" unless they run the gain (sensitivity) level too high which can cause noise or static or instability.
When hunting in the motion-based Discriminate mode, the Sensitivity control setting will not only determine the maximum depth of detection, but higher settings (as you can easily note with some bench or air-testing) will also saturate the overall signal response and it will thus be less 'modulated.' Many like to hunt at a lower to mid-range Sensitivity setting because they like to hear the more modulated audio. That's what I like about hunting in the d2 Audio option. When searching using the d4 Tone ID selection, I favor the highest Sensitivity simply because (due to my hearing) I like the more saturated response from most detectable targets in d4.
Now, as for that "THRESHOLD" matter you asked about. Yes, a Threshold is what we associate with the All Metal (Auto-Tune) mode and if you refer to Page #15 in the Owner's Manual, under "How to Ground Balance your detector:" it states:
"1. Turn the detector On and select the AT (Auto-Tune or All Metal ) mode."
Then, in #3, you:
"Rotate the SENS knob to a point where you hear a slight background hum."
This instruction is easily missed by many readers as it is brief and since two functions are tied into the use of the Sensitivity control, many can easily get lost.
So, there you go. In the Disc. mode, using any of the 4 Audio/Tone ID options, the Sensitivity control can be increased as low as you desire for reduced depth and limited target response, or as high as you choose as long as there isn't any "noise" or "chatter." Using higher Sensitivity settings, especially above about '70' will add to the saturation of the audio response you hear from mid-to-deep targets.
In the All Metal Auto-Tune mode, as explained in the manual, you will be able to achieve maximum target detection depth. This is best achieved if you set the detector for a "nice and proper" slight audio threshold hum, and that is accomplished by adjusting the Sensitivity control. It's just a function that is tied in with that control and is NOT a sensitivity adjustment as you're used to.
With the T2, for example, you have a "Hum' or Threshold level adjustment AND a Sensitivity adjustment. Actually, you have a Sensitivity adjustment for BOTH the All Metal as well as the Discriminate mode so they can be set differently. With your Omega, just presume that if you choose the AT All Metal mode you're "factory perset" for maximum Sensitivity (to get the best depth possible) and your influence on that is to adjust the Threshold or Hum level. Since the Sensitivity control is not functioning as such in that mode, it is used to set the All Metal Threshold level.
So, I hoped this has helped anyone,and since I am a slow keyboard operator and short on time (I'm headed out to detect shortly) I don't have time to proof read it. Hopefully, I didn't error too much and it's clear as mud ... I mean water.
Monte
g2 and Gold Bug
Reply Quote Report
Re: 5" coil is awesome in trash
Posted by: Low-Boy/LCPM [ Send a Message ]
Date: May 24, 2010 11:14PM
Registered: 6 years ago
Posts: 1,575
Forget the 10" get the 11"DD and the 8000 comes alive
Re: Accessing Boost & Cache Mode
Posted by: Cal_Cobra [ Send a Message ]
Date: September 02, 2010 12:52PM
Registered: 3 years ago
Posts: 1,905
Monte the point I was trying to make was that it seems that aside from the Tek Greek series, First Texas is heavily tilted towards relic hunting vs coin shooting. Even with the flag ship F75 LTD, it's tough trying to keep up with the Etrac working trashy parks for deep and/or masked silver. It's not that the Etrac is deeper then the LTD, because it's not, but it's TID locks on better, and it has an uncanny ability to sniff out coins in trash. Can the F75 LTD do this? Yes it can, it depends on the trash. The F75 is great in iron, but it has problems with bottle caps (which the Etrac does really well with) which litter many old inner city parks. I know most machines with DD coils encounter problems with bottle caps, but Minelab was able to jump ahead of the pack on this nuisance (it's not perfect, but it's good). Definitely their multifrequency FBS technology plays a critical part in it's success finding silver, as well as vetting out bottle caps (one reason I'd love to see FT bring back multifrequency technology). I feel the Omega has an advantage on deeper silver dimes over the F75, probably due to the frequency differences, but there may be other reasons as well (the O8 TID seems to be less erratic in general IMHO). Don't get me wrong, I like my O8 & F75 LTD, and I really don't want a 5lb Etrac to lug around, but it has merit for certain hunting scenarios - mainly deep turf silver hunting.
Some of the trashy parks I work, I can't really imagine hunting in two tone, as your eyes would be glued to the screen the entire time. Perhaps I should give it a try with the Omega and see how it does trying to pick silver out of the slew of pull-tabs (the O8 does great picking silver out of pull-tabs) and bottle caps (definitely need the stock Omega coil for that or perhaps the 5" DD).
I always run my LTD in boost mode, I don't see much reason not to. In my opinion cache mode is more of a novelty, but it's a great concept for those that might be inclined to do cache hunting or are looking for big deep targets and don't want to buy a two box machine or such. It's a very different process, and thus far I don't believe it's proven, but boost mode is an entirely different story. Very sound technology and very beneficial. If we had boost mode on the Omega, I guarantee that it would be an amazing machine (and it's already a great machine).
Definitely the GB is geared towards it's intended prospecting purpose, BUT I've been reading a lot of great feedback concerning it's iron see thru, and wet salt sand beach hunting capabilities as well. It might well be the latest FT sleeper like the Omega. Will it be a depth demon on deep silver dimes, quarters and small copper.....probably not, BUT if it can pick them out of heavy iron better then everything else out there, it certainly has capabilities the other machines don't, regardless of their marketed purpose. Also it's reported ability to punch through bad dirt is a BIG plus. A lot of other high end machines fall down in this area, even the F75 LTD to a great extent (the FBS Etrac has the advantage in mineralized ground)
Omega 8000 question??
Posted by: tj3445 [ Send a Message ]
Date: August 26, 2010 08:43PM
Registered: 10 months ago
Posts: 4
Can some of the more experienced O8K users enlighten me on how best to use the iron signal meter in the top right corner?? Any info will be much appreciated.
Reply Quote Report
Re: Omega 8000 question??
Posted by: txquest [ Send a Message ]
Date: August 27, 2010 07:12PM
Registered: 1 year ago
Posts: 82
tj3445, I am assuming you are asking about the Fe3O4 bargraph which measures ground mineralization. Scroll back thru the forum and check out posts by Bubbadirect on 06-07 and Monte on 04-26 on this subject. Txquest
Reply Quote Report
Re: Omega 8000 question??
Posted by: Jackpine Savage [ Send a Message ]
Date: August 27, 2010 09:01PM
Registered: 6 years ago
Posts: 2,841
The Fe304 meter is mainly there to alert the user when the ground mineralization is extreme so that you can adjust the detector and your hunt style to suit conditions. Ground readings are only accurate when bobbing the coil over target free ground. Ground reading bars showing up while detecting are mostly caused by the coil going over metal targets. Except when doing the ground grab procedure I seldom glance at the Fe bar graph since the most I have ever seen in my area is 2 bars and that was one rare occassion over a small area of ground.
Knowing the iron mineralization of the ground is important because high mineralization can cause depth loss and non-ferrous targets to read down in the iron range. Since the discrimination mode(s) on the Omega are silent search, meaning no background threshold hum, without the bar graph meter as an alert most would never know when they are dealing with high mineralization.
Tom
Re: F75LTD vs Omega for coin shooting
November 23, 2010 10:20AM
Registered: 3 years ago
Posts: 182
It depends on the site. Most places I prefer the Omega over the F75 LTD for coin hunting. I have one site where the LTD is as good, on the others I tend to dig too many "ghost signals" with the LTD. None of that with the Omega. For the best depth you have to watch the GB on the Omega, as it is less forgiving and you will lose some depth if it isn't set right... but on medium depth to shallow coins the Omega is absoultely deadly. I was at a hard hunted park last week and hit a small spot with three nickels... two buffalos and a V.. the Omega was perfect on them. I like the 11" coil better than the 10" but I don't yet have the 5" coil.
Personally, I would choose the Omega over the LTD everytime for coin hunting.
I have a friend who has an Omega. He also has a minnie buried at 10" in his yard. It has been buried there for about 21 yrs. His Omega will hit it and ID it with the 10" coil... (if the GB is set right). Many detectors won't hit it and some that do wont ID it correctly. My LTD would not correctly ID it, neither would his. The V3 will hit it, ID it and stop you in your tracks.. so will the E-TRAC. I have not personally seen how the Omega hits it but he told me it does well.
Jbow
The LTD is a great machine but in Calif it can have its ups and downs. For coin hunting I would go for the Omega and it is a great relic hunter. You can't just hunt with one machine all of the time...well I guess you can but the hobby has so much to offer why not two. I love the Omega and it did really well in iron and found me an old gun...that the LTD misssed..Different freq can make a difference on coins.
LowBoy
Omega EMI vs G2
I know air tests dont say a lot but I did air tests on all of my machines...g2 at full sensativity don't hit as deep as Omega 8000 set at 55.I set both machines as high as I could for testing inside and still be stable. Actually the Omega with sens set at 55 was hitting coins as deep as my mxt pro (set to +2 almost max sens) was in air tests indoors. I was very happy with those results. I've never had a machine that would go nuts at high sens settings like the Omega does and was worried I wouldn't get the depth due to using a much lower setting...however I was very wrong.
Basstrackerman
Using Higher Gain
By working the MXT (any detector) at the higher gain settings you will hear a stronger audio response that will be more saturated, and that means a stronger (louder) audio from 'deeper' targets and more signal for processing. This could result in more TID information being conveyed.
Threshold on Omega 8000 built into Sensitivity Control
What do you all think regarding the Omega (relative to the Fisher F5) implementing the threshold into the sensitivity control?
Earthmansurfer
I am confused on something regarding this. In the post below M. Hillis says the gain is from 1 to 70 and above 70 the threshold kicks in. Does the gain still increase after 70 or is it just the threshold that is increasing? (I've seen people post the latter). BTW - My Omega runs very quiet at even 99 sensitivity most of the time so I'm a bit perplexed by the term "threshold" here as I thought threshold was a hum and not just boosting weak audio signals. I imagine testing would need to be done to verify this.
What do you all think regarding the Omega (relative to the Fisher F5) implementing the threshold into the sensitivity control?
Quote
The Omega manual states that the Sensitivity control combines the Gain and threshold controls into one rotary dial. There is no independent threshold control on the Omega. The Gain settings are located in the range of 1 through 70 and settings above 70 through 99 activate the threshold settings. The threshold range of the Sensitivity setting increases the audio output making the weaker signals louder and easier to hear much like the +1 through +9 Threshold settings on the F5. This has its pluses and minuses. For one thing, the gain setting has a finer adjustment range and the high gain settings are very sensitive. If you can get this high in the field, moving up into the threshold range will give you an increased audio output on the weaker signals. The bad thing is that not only are all signals multiplied by the high gain settings to get here in the first place, they are also made louder by the threshold feature. The stability enjoyed by the F5 combinations are not available on the Omega. It is still as sensitive, just not as adaptable. Stop and think about this. Before I can use the threshold feature of the Sensitivity control, I have to max out the Gain setting. There is no flexibility. I only have a on or off arrangement. The added benefits of the threshold are only available if I can max out the gain. Second, I can only increase the threshold settings. I cant decrease them. Additionally, there is no sensitivity control for the all metal auto tune mode on the Omega. In the all metal mode, the sensitivity control now becomes a Threshold control. Raising the sensitivity settings increase the audio volume of the threshold hum, high sensitivity setting = very loud hum. Mike Hillis
Earthmansurfer, the "Threshold" adjustment for the All Metal Auto-Tune mode is made using the Sensitivity control on your Omega 8000. The variable gain/sensitivity for the Discriminate mode is a somewhat different function and, yes, it can be run at '99' when there isn't any nearby EMI. I always run my Sensitivity as high as possible while remaining stable, but only in the motion-based Discriminate mode.
In the auto-tuned All Metal mode, the Omega will be operating at "full gain possible" when you have adjusted for a slight audio 'hum' or Threshold setting. That will often be somewhere between about '68' and '72' depending upon the headphones used or outside ambient noise if you're relying on the detector's speaker w/o headphones. When I hunt in All Metal, which I do from time-to-time, I'm usually set at about '69'-'70'-'71' as it's all rather close and it works fine for me. Roughly, you can just call it '70' and be close.
Note that on Page 12 of your Owner's manual, under Sensitivity, sub-part d. it states:
"The Sensitivity has two ranges. From 0 to 70, the sensitivity increases on a linear scale. At 71 and above the sensitivity threshold level starts changing. At values greater than 70, some internal circuit noise will be noticed. the higher the number, the higher the background "static" will be. Many seasoned detectorists prefer to operate at a high sensitivity/threshold level, with the accompanying noise. They call this "working into the noise." When some background level of noise is audible, small changes in the volume and tone will denote the presence of buried metal."
Note, however, that it doesn't state which operating "mode" you are in when this adjustment is made, except the next category is the Discriminate/AT Autotune description and the a. instruction tells you to:
"Click counterclockwise to the AT icon to enter the Auto Tune mode."
So, as I am working on an operators manual of my own design, I hope to clarify and make sure everything is clear. By the Page 12 suggestions, at this point, it is a little confusing to many I'm sure. As a rule I describe the Sensitivity control a bit differently and the above description would be applied to searches made in the Discriminate mode. As instructed on Page #11 under "Powering Up" they suggest keeping the sensitivity below 70 until you become comfortable with the detector's operation. Again, this is because most people will search mainly in the motion Discriminate mode (generally "silent search" unless they run the gain (sensitivity) level too high which can cause noise or static or instability.
When hunting in the motion-based Discriminate mode, the Sensitivity control setting will not only determine the maximum depth of detection, but higher settings (as you can easily note with some bench or air-testing) will also saturate the overall signal response and it will thus be less 'modulated.' Many like to hunt at a lower to mid-range Sensitivity setting because they like to hear the more modulated audio. That's what I like about hunting in the d2 Audio option. When searching using the d4 Tone ID selection, I favor the highest Sensitivity simply because (due to my hearing) I like the more saturated response from most detectable targets in d4.
Now, as for that "THRESHOLD" matter you asked about. Yes, a Threshold is what we associate with the All Metal (Auto-Tune) mode and if you refer to Page #15 in the Owner's Manual, under "How to Ground Balance your detector:" it states:
"1. Turn the detector On and select the AT (Auto-Tune or All Metal ) mode."
Then, in #3, you:
"Rotate the SENS knob to a point where you hear a slight background hum."
This instruction is easily missed by many readers as it is brief and since two functions are tied into the use of the Sensitivity control, many can easily get lost.
So, there you go. In the Disc. mode, using any of the 4 Audio/Tone ID options, the Sensitivity control can be increased as low as you desire for reduced depth and limited target response, or as high as you choose as long as there isn't any "noise" or "chatter." Using higher Sensitivity settings, especially above about '70' will add to the saturation of the audio response you hear from mid-to-deep targets.
In the All Metal Auto-Tune mode, as explained in the manual, you will be able to achieve maximum target detection depth. This is best achieved if you set the detector for a "nice and proper" slight audio threshold hum, and that is accomplished by adjusting the Sensitivity control. It's just a function that is tied in with that control and is NOT a sensitivity adjustment as you're used to.
With the T2, for example, you have a "Hum' or Threshold level adjustment AND a Sensitivity adjustment. Actually, you have a Sensitivity adjustment for BOTH the All Metal as well as the Discriminate mode so they can be set differently. With your Omega, just presume that if you choose the AT All Metal mode you're "factory perset" for maximum Sensitivity (to get the best depth possible) and your influence on that is to adjust the Threshold or Hum level. Since the Sensitivity control is not functioning as such in that mode, it is used to set the All Metal Threshold level.
So, I hoped this has helped anyone,and since I am a slow keyboard operator and short on time (I'm headed out to detect shortly) I don't have time to proof read it. Hopefully, I didn't error too much and it's clear as mud ... I mean water.
Monte
huntindog1
Member
Elton, about my "coin depth" guesstimates comment.
3 Sep 2010 07:53:00 GMT
I'm not the briefest writer, to be sure. However, I usually interject a comment or two that suggests something other than a factory-generated response. For example:
Quote
Elton
partial quote from Monte...".So, all that any user of an Omega or T2 has to do is determine an 'accurate' coin-depth read-out (over 4") and then decide if the audio and visual Target ID/Tone ID suggests it is deeper. If so, like the FBS users, we recover those targets"
Note that I never said: "Rely on the detector's coin-depth reading."
That is for several reasons, and it really doesn't apply only to the Omega or T2, but to virtually ALL makes and models on the market. Manufactures can only provide a rough estimate of possible coin -depth readings and it will vary due to the particular coin type, size and position, factoring in the ground make-up, and we can't forget the user's selection of search coil size, shape, and type of construction along with the detector control settings. Let's not forget that some might come in on a target and detune when pinpointing and that can produce an errant coin-depth reading. Equally at fault in the depth estimate is if the user hasn't properly centered the coin with the coil when pinpointing.
Also, keep in mind that I was referring to using a favorite Teknetics model for coin-shooting older parks for silver and other older-date coins against one of the competitor's FBS models. Their coin-depth read-out is more crude by comparison. Also, I was suggesting that my friends who almost strictly 'silver shoot' (meaning they concentrate on all (deep) coins that produce a Zincoln/Indian Head audio/VDI or higher conductive. They reference their 'depth gauge" to go after targets that might be about 4" or deeper.
So, with the Omega and T2, and depending upon the coil I have mounted and the site environment and settings used, I suggest that the operator has to determine an accurate coin depth response that is possibly 4" or greater. That is a combination of referring to the detector's coin-depth read-out AND knowing how accurate coil used is, settings in play, as well as all-metal sizing and shaping the target. I really put the responsibility on the operator to learn and know their detector well so that they can interpret a 'proper' coin-depth guess compared the the detectors suggested depth gauge reading.
Quote
Elton
I have owned several T2 and F75 versions and none so far have been really accurate on depth of coins 5" or less. I get a lot of 5" deep confimations when in fact they are only 2, or 3 inches deep. The F75 is worse than the T2..The 6.5 version T2 has proven to be accurate more often too.
I've owned and used hundreds of different detectors, many of which were basically the same make/model but from a different run. As an example, from their release in early 1994 through just after last Christmas I owned 21 (yes, twenty-one) White's XLT's. I've owned at least 6 of the White's 6000 Pro XL or XL Pro units, and a recount has had me with 5 MXT's. Using just those three models (a total of 32 different units), I could tell some slight to gross differences in the coin-depth reading, and they were not always the same when comparing the same models. The XLT was possibly the more erratic or different-reading of the three. Also, I seldom used the factory stock coil with any of them so I had to be knowledgeable about the different responses I got, but keep in mind, they all came with a round concentric coil, and most of the time I had mounted a 6
3 Sep 2010 07:53:00 GMT
I'm not the briefest writer, to be sure. However, I usually interject a comment or two that suggests something other than a factory-generated response. For example:
Quote
Elton
partial quote from Monte...".So, all that any user of an Omega or T2 has to do is determine an 'accurate' coin-depth read-out (over 4") and then decide if the audio and visual Target ID/Tone ID suggests it is deeper. If so, like the FBS users, we recover those targets"
Note that I never said: "Rely on the detector's coin-depth reading."
That is for several reasons, and it really doesn't apply only to the Omega or T2, but to virtually ALL makes and models on the market. Manufactures can only provide a rough estimate of possible coin -depth readings and it will vary due to the particular coin type, size and position, factoring in the ground make-up, and we can't forget the user's selection of search coil size, shape, and type of construction along with the detector control settings. Let's not forget that some might come in on a target and detune when pinpointing and that can produce an errant coin-depth reading. Equally at fault in the depth estimate is if the user hasn't properly centered the coin with the coil when pinpointing.
Also, keep in mind that I was referring to using a favorite Teknetics model for coin-shooting older parks for silver and other older-date coins against one of the competitor's FBS models. Their coin-depth read-out is more crude by comparison. Also, I was suggesting that my friends who almost strictly 'silver shoot' (meaning they concentrate on all (deep) coins that produce a Zincoln/Indian Head audio/VDI or higher conductive. They reference their 'depth gauge" to go after targets that might be about 4" or deeper.
So, with the Omega and T2, and depending upon the coil I have mounted and the site environment and settings used, I suggest that the operator has to determine an accurate coin depth response that is possibly 4" or greater. That is a combination of referring to the detector's coin-depth read-out AND knowing how accurate coil used is, settings in play, as well as all-metal sizing and shaping the target. I really put the responsibility on the operator to learn and know their detector well so that they can interpret a 'proper' coin-depth guess compared the the detectors suggested depth gauge reading.
Quote
Elton
I have owned several T2 and F75 versions and none so far have been really accurate on depth of coins 5" or less. I get a lot of 5" deep confimations when in fact they are only 2, or 3 inches deep. The F75 is worse than the T2..The 6.5 version T2 has proven to be accurate more often too.
I've owned and used hundreds of different detectors, many of which were basically the same make/model but from a different run. As an example, from their release in early 1994 through just after last Christmas I owned 21 (yes, twenty-one) White's XLT's. I've owned at least 6 of the White's 6000 Pro XL or XL Pro units, and a recount has had me with 5 MXT's. Using just those three models (a total of 32 different units), I could tell some slight to gross differences in the coin-depth reading, and they were not always the same when comparing the same models. The XLT was possibly the more erratic or different-reading of the three. Also, I seldom used the factory stock coil with any of them so I had to be knowledgeable about the different responses I got, but keep in mind, they all came with a round concentric coil, and most of the time I had mounted a 6
huntindog1
Member
F75 & 5" Coil (probably applies to Omega)
Something in dire need of further clarification.....IRT 5" DD coil on the F75 LTD.
First, let me start with saying........I hunted a few fairly clean (non-trashy) areas/sites with the little 5" DD coil......where many targets were not masked. I was able to ascertain 10" and slightly deeper depths on coin-sized targets. Once again.....as long as there were no other targets in close proximity.
What appears to be a paradox......is the fact that the larger 11" DD coil will unmask targets to a greater extent than the 5" DD coil in target-rich/trashy sites.....with the targets being in the 7" - 10" depth range.
Targets needing to be unmasked that are in the 0" - 5" range......the 5" DD coil wins.....hands-down. Targets in the 5" - 7" depth range......and BOTH coils perform about the same (with a few exceptions). Targets beyond 7"......the large 11" DD coil is the winner. You would think......because these targets are still within range of the 5" DD coil.......that it would still be the better of the two choices for unmasking. Not so.
There are many things that are happening......but a couple 'primary' reasons/justifications. First, the signal strength remaining at.....say 8"....for the small coil......is a very weak signal......and ANY other 'fleck' of a target in close proximity to a 8" deep target......and the 5" DD coils energy is fatally attenuated/shunted. For the 11" coil.........a target at 8" is still hardly a challenge.......and signal strength remaining at 8"....is still fairly strong. A small fleck of rust in close proximity to the 8" deep target will distort the energy......probably giving a incorrect ID.......but will still acquire the desired target.
Chose your coil wisely.......and accordingly to the specific site conditions.
Rather noteworthy. A few days ago.........in the mid-afternoon, I had a bad EMI day in my test-garden. EMI mitigation not possible. I tried everything. Testing a new-in-box F75 SE. Unit would not detect 10" dime. Immediately, I acquired my old F75 LTD.......and......it too...would not acquire 10" deep dime. Grabbed my 20-year old CZ......and it would acquire the 10" deep dime and 11" deep dime......but not the 12" deep dime. The CZ was exceptionally stable.........never hinting at any form of EMI. The next morning (6:30am)......all three units would acquire a 12.0" deep dime ((and the 11" and 10" dimes)). No audible EMI encountered. I waited until 2:30pm......mid-afternoon....and......sure enough....both F75 LTD and the new SE would not detect the 10" deep dime. I then switched over to the 5" DD coil for both F75's...........and could detect a dime to 10.2". The 5" coil had better depth, better performance and no 'audible' EMI that I could hear. The next morning (6:30am again)......both F75's could detect a clad dime to a max depth of 10.4" with the 5" coil. Immediately switching over to the 11" DD coils......and both F75's could detect a clad dime to 12.0". Immediately switching BACK to the 5" coils..........and both units could still detect a clad dime to 10.4". I did this to verify that no EMI condition had changed......so as to validate the test. ((Some other validation tests were also performed)).
Summational conclusion: It appears the inherent design of the 11" DD coil......is a EMI magnet. With minimal EMI exposure .... this 11" DD coil is a tremendous performer. When EMI becomes moderately heavy.....the small 5" coil will trump the large coil ..... in the depth department.......AND in the stability department. Through years of testing, I knew EMI reduced depth and overall performance......but.....what I did NOT know (and would have never suspected)......is that the 5" coil would (paradoxically) trump the performance of the large coil........in every respect.
Tom Dankowski
Now, one thing I noticed shortly after working with the Omega and the stock 10" concentric coil is that some small pieces of foil can register with a high-pitched audio and show a '99' VDI. Again, I've experienced similar responses before with some other models, with the thin foil targets appearing to the detector's analysis circuitry as a weak-reading, deep, higher-conductive target, but it's usually fairly easy to "qualify' the target. A '99' would be a high-conductive target and you can check by using the Pinpoint function and note the suggested "coin depth" and then raise the search coil while in the Discriminate mode. Usually, raising the coil only 1"-2" results in is a target that disappears, or it will produce a 'correct" target ID in the Foil range and accompanying audio tone.
With the 5" DD coil I would get similar '99' readings on small-sized foil, and again with the 11" DD. With my Omega 8000, and my set of 3 search coils, I get somewhat lower VDI numeric readings with the 5" DD coil than the stock 10" concentric ... mainly with higher-conductive targets, while using the 11" DD coil my VDI's are higher. As I stated, today I kept getting a lot of '99' VDI's with the 11" DD, but quickly found that I could compare the signal strength when raising the coil on repetitive sweeps as well as the Pinpoint mode to 'classify' most of those target hits as suspected foil. Every time I made the call that it was probably foil, it turned out to be just that .... foil.
But I also got some high reading VDI's which I determined were probably desired targets and they turned out to be just that. I used the 1922 Peace Dollar and laid it on metal-free ground. I initially found it in a wood-chip playground under about 1
Something in dire need of further clarification.....IRT 5" DD coil on the F75 LTD.
First, let me start with saying........I hunted a few fairly clean (non-trashy) areas/sites with the little 5" DD coil......where many targets were not masked. I was able to ascertain 10" and slightly deeper depths on coin-sized targets. Once again.....as long as there were no other targets in close proximity.
What appears to be a paradox......is the fact that the larger 11" DD coil will unmask targets to a greater extent than the 5" DD coil in target-rich/trashy sites.....with the targets being in the 7" - 10" depth range.
Targets needing to be unmasked that are in the 0" - 5" range......the 5" DD coil wins.....hands-down. Targets in the 5" - 7" depth range......and BOTH coils perform about the same (with a few exceptions). Targets beyond 7"......the large 11" DD coil is the winner. You would think......because these targets are still within range of the 5" DD coil.......that it would still be the better of the two choices for unmasking. Not so.
There are many things that are happening......but a couple 'primary' reasons/justifications. First, the signal strength remaining at.....say 8"....for the small coil......is a very weak signal......and ANY other 'fleck' of a target in close proximity to a 8" deep target......and the 5" DD coils energy is fatally attenuated/shunted. For the 11" coil.........a target at 8" is still hardly a challenge.......and signal strength remaining at 8"....is still fairly strong. A small fleck of rust in close proximity to the 8" deep target will distort the energy......probably giving a incorrect ID.......but will still acquire the desired target.
Chose your coil wisely.......and accordingly to the specific site conditions.
Rather noteworthy. A few days ago.........in the mid-afternoon, I had a bad EMI day in my test-garden. EMI mitigation not possible. I tried everything. Testing a new-in-box F75 SE. Unit would not detect 10" dime. Immediately, I acquired my old F75 LTD.......and......it too...would not acquire 10" deep dime. Grabbed my 20-year old CZ......and it would acquire the 10" deep dime and 11" deep dime......but not the 12" deep dime. The CZ was exceptionally stable.........never hinting at any form of EMI. The next morning (6:30am)......all three units would acquire a 12.0" deep dime ((and the 11" and 10" dimes)). No audible EMI encountered. I waited until 2:30pm......mid-afternoon....and......sure enough....both F75 LTD and the new SE would not detect the 10" deep dime. I then switched over to the 5" DD coil for both F75's...........and could detect a dime to 10.2". The 5" coil had better depth, better performance and no 'audible' EMI that I could hear. The next morning (6:30am again)......both F75's could detect a clad dime to a max depth of 10.4" with the 5" coil. Immediately switching over to the 11" DD coils......and both F75's could detect a clad dime to 12.0". Immediately switching BACK to the 5" coils..........and both units could still detect a clad dime to 10.4". I did this to verify that no EMI condition had changed......so as to validate the test. ((Some other validation tests were also performed)).
Summational conclusion: It appears the inherent design of the 11" DD coil......is a EMI magnet. With minimal EMI exposure .... this 11" DD coil is a tremendous performer. When EMI becomes moderately heavy.....the small 5" coil will trump the large coil ..... in the depth department.......AND in the stability department. Through years of testing, I knew EMI reduced depth and overall performance......but.....what I did NOT know (and would have never suspected)......is that the 5" coil would (paradoxically) trump the performance of the large coil........in every respect.
Tom Dankowski
Now, one thing I noticed shortly after working with the Omega and the stock 10" concentric coil is that some small pieces of foil can register with a high-pitched audio and show a '99' VDI. Again, I've experienced similar responses before with some other models, with the thin foil targets appearing to the detector's analysis circuitry as a weak-reading, deep, higher-conductive target, but it's usually fairly easy to "qualify' the target. A '99' would be a high-conductive target and you can check by using the Pinpoint function and note the suggested "coin depth" and then raise the search coil while in the Discriminate mode. Usually, raising the coil only 1"-2" results in is a target that disappears, or it will produce a 'correct" target ID in the Foil range and accompanying audio tone.
With the 5" DD coil I would get similar '99' readings on small-sized foil, and again with the 11" DD. With my Omega 8000, and my set of 3 search coils, I get somewhat lower VDI numeric readings with the 5" DD coil than the stock 10" concentric ... mainly with higher-conductive targets, while using the 11" DD coil my VDI's are higher. As I stated, today I kept getting a lot of '99' VDI's with the 11" DD, but quickly found that I could compare the signal strength when raising the coil on repetitive sweeps as well as the Pinpoint mode to 'classify' most of those target hits as suspected foil. Every time I made the call that it was probably foil, it turned out to be just that .... foil.
But I also got some high reading VDI's which I determined were probably desired targets and they turned out to be just that. I used the 1922 Peace Dollar and laid it on metal-free ground. I initially found it in a wood-chip playground under about 1
huntindog1
Member
BC=bottlecap
Using 'heel' technique with the 11" DD.....if the iron is not too pervasive where your hunting, it might save you from buying a new coil. Although a bottlecap is used, its iron, so the technique/results are pretty much the same for most iron unless they are really large pieces of which will always fools the Teknetics/Fisher/other brands too. Bent nails will also fool a DD coil. Not much can be done about them. Keep in mind that bottlecaps will read as quarters when center of DD coil is swept over them. So the trick is to sweep coil off center as described below. Do the testing at home to learn the technique. This will prepare you and save a lot of frustration trying to learn it in the field.
"Decided to do a little bench testing. Used a clad dime and a flattened/slightly rusted Bud Light bottlecap. These, like Corona beer caps are notorious for ID'ing as dimes/quarters. This technique uses the heel edge (not the toe edge) to identify the pesky buggers. IMHO the toe edge of the First Texas DD coils do not go as deep as the heel edge. Target distance from coil was approx 7". Bottlecaps can be deep. Here is what I observed.
When the heel edge is even with or up to 1" past the bottlecap the numbers will drop to 70's-60's-50's and sometimes the teen's (do not always get the teen readings though). But the tip off is is that in doing multiple edge sweeps (remember you may have to go up to 1" past the bottlecap to get this effect) is that the ID number 99 will appear. Sometimes only one time. But it appears.
The dime will also have large fluctuating readings like bcaps with the edge technique, but there are two things it won't do. It doesn't go into the teen numbers and the 99 ID number never occurs. Practice this at home, see if your results are what I am getting. Remember, this is with the 5" DD coil. Too tired tonight to test the 11" DD.
Credit for this technique goes to Monte B. (FindMall Guru) He calls it the 'Edge Pass' technique. You can search for it here on FMall. This is simply my variation of it.
I put the targets on a box about 8" off the floor to replicate field sweeping techniques. Trying to do this by holding targets in hand and waving targets in front of coil doesn't work as well. Also, set sensitivity low enough so that the machine is not registering ID numbers randomly. You can hold the detector waist level in the air, and if ID numbers are being generated on the screen, you need to lower the sensitivity until it stops doing that. This will give you accurate test results.
Disc @ 10 and Ground Grab reset to 28 instead of default 84 to reduce falsing from indoor EMI for testing purposeson my Omega." Set your F70 to approximate these settings for the indoor testing.
The newer bottlecaps (approximately the last 10 yrs) are the hardest to disc out, but above 'edge/heel' technique will work on them and the older ones too. Another technique for older bottlecaps (won't work on the newer variety) is to sweep coil edge (sometimes center of coil works too) over bottlecap while raising coil over BC. The audio will start breaking up/ID numbers will jump around like 10-30 points. Doing same on a coin, you will note the audio/ID numbers stay pretty stable (0-5 points). You will easily note the difference when you practice this.
Using 'heel' technique with the 11" DD.....if the iron is not too pervasive where your hunting, it might save you from buying a new coil. Although a bottlecap is used, its iron, so the technique/results are pretty much the same for most iron unless they are really large pieces of which will always fools the Teknetics/Fisher/other brands too. Bent nails will also fool a DD coil. Not much can be done about them. Keep in mind that bottlecaps will read as quarters when center of DD coil is swept over them. So the trick is to sweep coil off center as described below. Do the testing at home to learn the technique. This will prepare you and save a lot of frustration trying to learn it in the field.
"Decided to do a little bench testing. Used a clad dime and a flattened/slightly rusted Bud Light bottlecap. These, like Corona beer caps are notorious for ID'ing as dimes/quarters. This technique uses the heel edge (not the toe edge) to identify the pesky buggers. IMHO the toe edge of the First Texas DD coils do not go as deep as the heel edge. Target distance from coil was approx 7". Bottlecaps can be deep. Here is what I observed.
When the heel edge is even with or up to 1" past the bottlecap the numbers will drop to 70's-60's-50's and sometimes the teen's (do not always get the teen readings though). But the tip off is is that in doing multiple edge sweeps (remember you may have to go up to 1" past the bottlecap to get this effect) is that the ID number 99 will appear. Sometimes only one time. But it appears.
The dime will also have large fluctuating readings like bcaps with the edge technique, but there are two things it won't do. It doesn't go into the teen numbers and the 99 ID number never occurs. Practice this at home, see if your results are what I am getting. Remember, this is with the 5" DD coil. Too tired tonight to test the 11" DD.
Credit for this technique goes to Monte B. (FindMall Guru) He calls it the 'Edge Pass' technique. You can search for it here on FMall. This is simply my variation of it.
I put the targets on a box about 8" off the floor to replicate field sweeping techniques. Trying to do this by holding targets in hand and waving targets in front of coil doesn't work as well. Also, set sensitivity low enough so that the machine is not registering ID numbers randomly. You can hold the detector waist level in the air, and if ID numbers are being generated on the screen, you need to lower the sensitivity until it stops doing that. This will give you accurate test results.
Disc @ 10 and Ground Grab reset to 28 instead of default 84 to reduce falsing from indoor EMI for testing purposeson my Omega." Set your F70 to approximate these settings for the indoor testing.
The newer bottlecaps (approximately the last 10 yrs) are the hardest to disc out, but above 'edge/heel' technique will work on them and the older ones too. Another technique for older bottlecaps (won't work on the newer variety) is to sweep coil edge (sometimes center of coil works too) over bottlecap while raising coil over BC. The audio will start breaking up/ID numbers will jump around like 10-30 points. Doing same on a coin, you will note the audio/ID numbers stay pretty stable (0-5 points). You will easily note the difference when you practice this.
huntindog1
Member
someone emailed me all that info, if they care to step forward.