My modified SE is doing great for me and feels light to me. But I have an Idea to solve the nose heavy balance problem that people complain about. My question is, " has anyone ever wired a pinpoint switch to an Explorer or SE"? If I can do that then I've got a design in the works.
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Minelab SE switch
- Thread starter Rob (IL)
- Start date
I did an external pinpoint for an Explorer XS, I follow the topic from HArd Nosed Dave at detectorgear (site doesn't exist any more)
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?22,259140,259140#msg-259140:
"Take a lot of care with any soldering and check your work. Be it on your own head if anything goes wrong. This is only a suggestion that you may or may NOT wish to take up. It's a handy way to make the facilty of IRONMASK and/or PINPOINT remote so as to be able one to use a single hand operation when using the Explorer in a plastic bag to make it water resistant in a ruck sack maybe. Handy when the other hand needs to use a scoop while one hand is using the search coil with the remote these/this mounted switch/swithches. You could theoretcally mount a whole bank of switches that do ALL functions remotely on the search stem, but I found that the most requirements when hunting in the water would be with either IRONMASK or PINPOINT.
I suggest you remove any power to the circuits by removing the battery and beware of static electricity. Use a good quality thin multi-strand, colored plastic wire that can be soldered. Pry apart the 1st PCB form the 2nd PCB very carefully so as NOT to bend those gold connecting pins. Make sure the gold pins are perfectly alligned to these sockets before joining them back together
IF YOU WANT only a remote PINPOINT switch THEN YOU ONLY NEED A SINGLE ON/OFF MOMMENTARY push button SWITCH.
PUSH to connect and let go to disconnect. This is how all the Explorers' buttons function. So consider this when you are choosing a switch.
I HAVE USED a SELF CENTERING TO NEUTRAL ROCKER SWITCH . Push down left to IRON MASK or push down right for PINPOINT. Either one or the other would be a good idea.
The picture of this PCB is actually that of a dead one. This was due to my lack of care and my sloppy soldering.
The view is of this PCB is that of what is known as PCB 1 or I guess you can call it the second board.
Starting form the LEFT is pin1 through to pin10. Pin 4 is the common wire ONLY for the IRONMASK and PINPOINT. You do not have to have both PINPOINT and IRONMASK.
So you would only use a single switch to make a connection from Pin4 to PIN 10. This is what you would find it is if you went a step further and removed the next PCB to the flat ribbon connector that comes off the contol box cover/switch face. Attatching these wires to achieve a remote conection STILL allows one to use the Explorers control switches without interupting it's stock contyrols. You are simply allowing the circuit to be switched form a remote location, such as a tthumb or trigger switch on you search coil stem with this type of connection.
If you wanted IRONMASK and PINPOINT then you would wire up a switch or maybe even two accordingly.
I have used a three-point connector to the outside and attached to the Explorer control box. You may want to consider this as a better option as to a more permanent hardwire connection for a remote extension cable.
Hope this helps.
Hard Nosed Dave"
Hope this help.
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?22,259140,259140#msg-259140:
"Take a lot of care with any soldering and check your work. Be it on your own head if anything goes wrong. This is only a suggestion that you may or may NOT wish to take up. It's a handy way to make the facilty of IRONMASK and/or PINPOINT remote so as to be able one to use a single hand operation when using the Explorer in a plastic bag to make it water resistant in a ruck sack maybe. Handy when the other hand needs to use a scoop while one hand is using the search coil with the remote these/this mounted switch/swithches. You could theoretcally mount a whole bank of switches that do ALL functions remotely on the search stem, but I found that the most requirements when hunting in the water would be with either IRONMASK or PINPOINT.
I suggest you remove any power to the circuits by removing the battery and beware of static electricity. Use a good quality thin multi-strand, colored plastic wire that can be soldered. Pry apart the 1st PCB form the 2nd PCB very carefully so as NOT to bend those gold connecting pins. Make sure the gold pins are perfectly alligned to these sockets before joining them back together
IF YOU WANT only a remote PINPOINT switch THEN YOU ONLY NEED A SINGLE ON/OFF MOMMENTARY push button SWITCH.
PUSH to connect and let go to disconnect. This is how all the Explorers' buttons function. So consider this when you are choosing a switch.
I HAVE USED a SELF CENTERING TO NEUTRAL ROCKER SWITCH . Push down left to IRON MASK or push down right for PINPOINT. Either one or the other would be a good idea.
The picture of this PCB is actually that of a dead one. This was due to my lack of care and my sloppy soldering.
The view is of this PCB is that of what is known as PCB 1 or I guess you can call it the second board.
Starting form the LEFT is pin1 through to pin10. Pin 4 is the common wire ONLY for the IRONMASK and PINPOINT. You do not have to have both PINPOINT and IRONMASK.
So you would only use a single switch to make a connection from Pin4 to PIN 10. This is what you would find it is if you went a step further and removed the next PCB to the flat ribbon connector that comes off the contol box cover/switch face. Attatching these wires to achieve a remote conection STILL allows one to use the Explorers control switches without interupting it's stock contyrols. You are simply allowing the circuit to be switched form a remote location, such as a tthumb or trigger switch on you search coil stem with this type of connection.
If you wanted IRONMASK and PINPOINT then you would wire up a switch or maybe even two accordingly.
I have used a three-point connector to the outside and attached to the Explorer control box. You may want to consider this as a better option as to a more permanent hardwire connection for a remote extension cable.
Hope this helps.
Hard Nosed Dave"
Hope this help.
amarmion@sbcglobal.net
New member
I put the remote control on my XP Deus so securely that now I cannot get it off its bracket. Is there a good way to remove it so that I can charge it when I charge the coil and earphones (all three together)? Would rather not force it off! Thanks!