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Minelab Excalibur Questions
- Thread starter stoker_x1
- Start date
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
I offer a kit to do the Mode, a very good combo with the GGA's...
I will be doing a video in the next few days on the mode, this time with the kit I offer.
I am sold out right now and waiting on parts which should be here later in the week.
On your questions, I have been hunting in PP mode for over 5 years now with no side effects on the machine, from using this mode and wiring sizes.
The wire size can be just about any, think my kits wire size is 24gauge.
The Potentiometer's used as a on off for the PP to Disc on the excalibur...The gap is open between contacts when in PP, your remote switch closes this gap and puts it in Disc when you toggle over.
I will be doing a video in the next few days on the mode, this time with the kit I offer.
I am sold out right now and waiting on parts which should be here later in the week.
On your questions, I have been hunting in PP mode for over 5 years now with no side effects on the machine, from using this mode and wiring sizes.
The wire size can be just about any, think my kits wire size is 24gauge.
The Potentiometer's used as a on off for the PP to Disc on the excalibur...The gap is open between contacts when in PP, your remote switch closes this gap and puts it in Disc when you toggle over.
dewcon4414
Well-known member
Id say Joes PP mod in fact would be an advantage, not only in hunting, but to those poorly made switches and knobs. I can tell you that you WILL have to change those if you constantly use them. Knobs you can get..... switches, its going to cost you more than the mod.... lots more.
As far as settings..... no it doesnt over ride all the settings. Heres what i use. Adjust your threshold in disc before going to PP. Set you volume 3/4 to full. Thou it does over ride the disc setting in PP..... you have to have the knob at its lowest setting just because you are switching back to it to check targets. Sensitivity..... i normally click out of AUTO and a tad more..... about 9:30. It will be chattery when you switch back..... but you hear the target or it goes null.
Joe knows more about wires than me. But i do know what you are asking...... wire size, distance and constant dcv..... its not going to be significant enough for you to notice since Joe and some of the other guys have been using the mod for several years. They have it pretty refined and Joe has a great kit..... you just cant get those end caps.... and you need them to do it RIGHT.
Dew
As far as settings..... no it doesnt over ride all the settings. Heres what i use. Adjust your threshold in disc before going to PP. Set you volume 3/4 to full. Thou it does over ride the disc setting in PP..... you have to have the knob at its lowest setting just because you are switching back to it to check targets. Sensitivity..... i normally click out of AUTO and a tad more..... about 9:30. It will be chattery when you switch back..... but you hear the target or it goes null.
Joe knows more about wires than me. But i do know what you are asking...... wire size, distance and constant dcv..... its not going to be significant enough for you to notice since Joe and some of the other guys have been using the mod for several years. They have it pretty refined and Joe has a great kit..... you just cant get those end caps.... and you need them to do it RIGHT.
Dew
Am I to understand that with your mod the excal will run in PP and will only be in disc when you depress the toggle switch? It will not stay in disc unless you hold it there? The GG;s you fixed for me are working great. Do these mods come with instructions to where we can do it at home? Thanks, John
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Yes, you set the PP/Disc knob to PP. When you toggle the switch it can stay in disc or go back to PP in a flash. If you want you can turn the knob
and control it from there also.
There is no contact between the two points on the Potentiometer. Then the small wired 2 pin female connector get soldered to the outer points on the pot. If you purchase the complete setup ready to go, headphone and handle you just plug all in when putting the endcap back on and your ready to go. I am doing a Excalibur Thursday and doing video......video will be up by the weekend.
and control it from there also.
There is no contact between the two points on the Potentiometer. Then the small wired 2 pin female connector get soldered to the outer points on the pot. If you purchase the complete setup ready to go, headphone and handle you just plug all in when putting the endcap back on and your ready to go. I am doing a Excalibur Thursday and doing video......video will be up by the weekend.
dewcon4414
Well-known member
Im interesting in seeing that too Joe. Ive seen one that you did, but not with the kit process/end cap. Make us proud....
Dew
Dew
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Thanks Dew, I'm running behind as always. Parts for the video should be here Monday...Holiday killed the shipping....
powertools
New member
hi I have Excalibur 11 and seem to have a break in headphone wire where it joins through endcap to main panel. I have got end cap off but cant see how cable comes out of it. Any ideas so I can just shorten cable by 50 mm and reconnect it ?
dewcon4414
Well-known member
You best bet is to get a new end cap from OBN with the connector. Then do a little soldering and epoxy inside. Thats a whole lot cheaper than the $250+ to have ML put a new pair on.
Dew
Dew
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
You have to trust me on this..Can you solder? If so......First cut the yellow wire at the black shrink wrap where it joins the copper wire. This will free the endcap up. Next cut the two pin connector lose from the endcap, you want to save as much wire as possible, red and black wire, so cut it close to the endcap. Next take the black strain relief loose from the front of the endcap, slide it up the coiled head phone wire. Cut the black coiled cord close to the threads of the endcap, short. Take a drill and drill out this wire like pictured. Clean it out real good so you can slide the headphone cord back thru. Now cut off all the wire you think will solve the shorting issue. Slide the cord back into the endcap , make sure the strain relief is on, strip the 4 wires, cut the two smaller wires off and use only the 2 larger. Solder your red and black wires to the two coming thru the endcap. At this point you want to test to make sure all is fine, fix the wires so they just come out of the endcap...epoxy the wires in.....seal the end of the yellow wire and tuck it back up in the pod, make sure it is sealed good....or just cut it off...
powertools
New member
Hi There,
Thank you for taking the time and effort to show me how to sort out my problem. I very much appreciate it. I was getting worried that I'd have to send it back to the dealer.
Thanks again and have a merry Christmas,
Kind Regards from
Andrew
Thank you for taking the time and effort to show me how to sort out my problem. I very much appreciate it. I was getting worried that I'd have to send it back to the dealer.
Thanks again and have a merry Christmas,
Kind Regards from
Andrew
powertools
New member
Hi there, Thank you very much for your reply, much appreciated,
Kind Regards from
Andrew
Kind Regards from
Andrew
powertools
New member
thank you very much for your expert guidance. very much appreciated. One point i not understand is why do minelab make it with extra wires and electrical resistors or what ever they are called inside of the end cap? I know i am not the sharpest tool in the box when it comes to electrics . thank you for your time in helping me out .