I agree with you on the 6-inch coil. I use it more on my XLPro than the other 3 coils I have, combined. I do notice that the depth of detection suffers about a 25% loss, compared to the 950. But in trashy environments, the separation characteristics make up for any loss of depth. When it is real trashy, I put on the 350 Snooper. JMHO.
I will be happy to share some of the techniques I use to help me hunt with my XLPro. Keep in mind that some may disagree with these settings and/or methods. But they work for my style of coinshooting, in the sites I hunt. First of all, set all your controls to the factory preset levels. I will add that, other than tweaking the Sig Bal a bit more positive, these settings are pretty much the ones I use. Once the controls are set as described, squeeze and release the trigger under the meter. Now, hold the coil about waist high and adjust the threshold so that you just hear a slight hum. While still holding the coil at waist level, push the AUTO G.E.B. toggle forward to the Air position. Hold it there until you hear a beep. After you hear the beep, lower the coil to the ground and pull the toggle clear back to the AUTO TRAC position. Hold the coil still until you hear another beep. After this beep, squeeze the trigger under the meter and raise the coil. Your objective is to set the Signal Balance as high as you can without causing the threshold tone to increase when you raise the coil. So, advance the Sig Bal knob clockwise a little at a time, and continue this AIR / AUTO TRAC procedure each time you change the Sig Bal until you can raise the coil without causing the tone to increase. When you find the highest Sig Bal setting you can use, with little or no change in tone when you raise the coil, you have probably set your detector for the maximum detection depth for that site. Most of the sites I hunt have pretty stable mineralization, so I usually Lock my GB setting after I have swept the coil a few times. (I don't know if anyone else does this, but it seems to work for me).
Now for the twitch.... Actually, I like to refer to it as a subtle needle movement to the left. What I mean by that is, when I have heard that old familiar sound of an accepted target, I "X" over the target more slowly than when I am hunting. Not just a four legged X. But I pass the coil over it from several directions. Just in case of an adjacent target. At this time, I listen for a solid repeatable tone. A tone that is not "sharp around the edges" and does not break up. If that tone is solid, rounded and consistent, I pull the trigger under the meter and pass the coil over it again. I compare the width of the audio now, compared to the width of the audio when I was in GEB Disc mode. (remember that pulling the trigger temporarily puts the detector in GEB Norm mode. And if there are multiple targets, they are more easily separated in all-metal). If the audio is wider in all metal than it was in discriminate, I don't dig it. If the audio is narrower in all-metal than it was in discriminate, I suspect a good target and take a look at the meter. While Xing over the target I see if the needle pegs out and stays on target or if it deflects to the left. If I slow down the sweep, and see the needled deflect to the left repeatedly, in any one direction, I don't dig the target. Oh, if I am bored and haven't dug any holes for awhile I may dig a few. But 99.99% of the time, it isn't a coin when the needled deflects to the left. One exception in modern parks is when you find coins of different denominations in the same hole. The meter may read a dime one direction and a nickel in the other. (as an example). But you can help determine this situation by checking depth. If they are shallow, I go on.
So, two tips I can give you for coinshooting the XLPro would be to listen for the narrower tone in all-metal. And watch for a downward deflection on the needle. If the tone is wider in all metal....I don't dig it. If the needle makes that subtle deflection to the left, I don't dig it. I may be missing some coins. But for the amount of time I save by not digging a few useless holes or mixed clad, I figure I can find two or three more targets that are worth digging. Again, as a guy who looks for old coins, this is my approach. Masking, soil conditions, target depth and mineralization may have an effect on how it works for you.
For those of you who may doubt the effectiveness of these tips, I encourage you to try them at home. If you don't have a coin garden, build one. Bury some coins and some trash. Then use the suggestions I have outlined and see what your results are. You just may find that my methods will save you a lot of unrewarded digging and increase your number of keepers. HH Randy
