Master Hunter ADS 3

[Overvoltage]

I have acquired a Master Hunter ADS 3. It has 4 coils, 4", 8", 10" and 15". It also has the bloodhound 2 box coil. My question is what would the best purpose/use for each of these size coils, especially the bloodhound? I have added a picture for reference. Also what settings would be the best for each of these coils. I really don't know much about the ADS 3.

 

[Tom_in_CA]

ah the memories that brings back The ADS II and the ADS III were Garrett's attempted "answer" to the Whites 6000d's. But in my opinion, the 6000d was better (deeper seeking, when matched coil-size per coil-size relative). Still though, a good machine for its time. It dates to around 1982, if my memory serves me right (maybe as early as 1981?). It was a motion machine, and a hair-slower motion needed than the 6000's, it seemed. The 4", 8", and 10" coils would be for regular coin hunting. Smaller coil for junky sites (ghost-townsy type iron ridden sites, or under bleachers, etc...). The 10" would give the most depth in regular coin/turf type hunting, albeit with more masking than the smaller coils.

Not sure about the 15" coil. But no doubt the logic would follow the same as ANY larger coil on a standard coin machine: More depth. The larger the coil, the deeper you go. However, you hit a "point of dimishing returns" on coin sized targets, where .... eventually ..... you only get larger objects deeper, not coin-sized objects deeper. Or perhaps it was used to get more coverage swath per sweep, even if not getting coin-sized objects deeper. Or I suppose the logic would be that if you were hunting jar sized items at depth, you might want to get that 15" coil on. But personally, if I was going to go out with the sole objective of finding "jar sized objects", I would simply elect to use the blood-hound feature, not larger-standard coils.

The blood-hound device turned it into a 2-box unit. Not sure how effective it was on that (as compared to, say .... a TM 808 ), as I never used one of those attachments on the ADS II I had.. But in general, a 2-box unit allows the detector to *only* be able to sound off on soda can sized objects or larger. You simply won't hear small things like individual nails, coins, etc.... So it's the best way if your objective is solely large objects (like cache hunting). The depth on the 2-box units I've used (the tm-808 ) is about ~2 or 3 ft. on a soda can or mason-jar sized object. 3 or 4 ft. on a tool box sized item. 4 or 5 ft. on a toaster oven sized item, etc.... So too can a standard detector (esp. with a 15" coil) probably get those same depths. But the advantage of the 2-box is you're simply not bothered by all the nuisance small stuff, to be having to endlessly do the guessing game of small versus large.

As for what each control does, well..... that's a different subject, and I've gotten too lengthy thus far here Will let someone else take a crack at that, unless you had a specific question. I see from the pix that you have the instruction manual, so why not just read it ?

 

[duggr]

n/t

 

[Overvoltage]

Tom, thanks for the reply. I guess my question should have been more toward the bloodhound 2-box unit as I have never used one. I wasnt sure of the purpose. I did not know it would not pick up small items. Also, the instructions didn't cover the bloodhound so I have no idea about the settings for it. I actually had a heck of a time figuring out what poles were used for it and the hip mount configuration. There was no assembly instructions and I had a case full of poles. I was thinking about selling the whole thing but I may reconsider just for the 2-box unit capabilities.

 

[JB(MS)]

To use the Depth Multiplier on your ADS III you have to be in all metal mode. When you've attached the Depth Multiplier, turn the detector on, select all metal mode and set the threshold level to a barely audible level. The threshold sound may fluctuate due to several reasons including temperature or ground conditions. If this should occur, re-tune the detector using the re-tune switch.

Search Procedure:

Walk forward with the Depth Multiplier pointing straight ahead and level or parallel to the ground. Don't scan it as when using a standard search coil. When searching for buried objects, walk back and forth following parallel lines. Spacing between the scan paths may range from one foot to several feet depending upon the size of the targeted object. All types of metal will be detected, including iron, however most surface trash and small pieces of junk metal will not be detected.

When searching with the Depth Multiplier, the Ground Balance and Discrimination control functions are not operative. This means that when searching over highly mineralized soil, detection of ground disturbances may occur as the detector is raised or lowered. In most instances these disturbances are minor and almost non-existent when the Treasure Hound is kept level to the surface while searching.

While searching with the Depth Multiplier a faint increase in sound may be heard with each step taken. This sound increase may be minimized by walking more smoothly and carefully.

Pinpointing a target is simple. As the front search coil begins to pass over a buried metal object, the detector will respond with an increase in sound that, depending on the size of the target, will continue until the object has been passed by. If there is uncertainty about the target's exact location, move back from its approximate location and then move toward the target again. Mark the ground at the spot where the target audio begins to respond. Pass over the target completely until the audio increase has ceased. Next, repeat this process from the opposite direction. The target should be located halfway between the two marks

 

[Overvoltage]

The instruction book does not mention an all metal mode. My choices are TR/VLF or VLF/TR. I am assuming that TR is all metal mode as there is no discrimination when in this mode.

 

[Tom_in_CA]

Well now you got me in a pickle. I can't remember if that machine had a VLF all-metal mode, or not. (Versus strictly VLF-motion disc). As for the TR, it was TR disc, (versus all-metal-TR, that I'm sure of). This was because, at the time, there were still old-school hunters that thought there was a time & place to be using TR disc. That quickly went by the way-side, when motion-required got slowed down to a crawl in the mid 1980s on a variety of machines.

But anyhow, the instruction will tell you the difference between VLF all-metal and VLF disc. I'm pretty sure it had vlf all-metal, but I just can't remember how the switches were to be set, and the toggle to be held. Read the instructions.

As for the blood-hound, I never used that attachment with mine. So I don't recall whether instructions for it were in the manual or not. Perhaps, since it was an after-market optional coil, it came with its own instructions whenever a user bought that.

 

[JB(MS)]

The ADS III and later ADS models have a toggle switch in the end of the handle that changes modes. On the ADS III with the side mounted mode switch in the VLF position, toggling left and releasing puts it in VLF all metal mode, toggling right and releasing puts it in VLF disc mode.

 

[Overvoltage]

Tom and JB, thanks for sharing your knowledge on the ADS3. As soon as the snow and ice goes away here in South Carolina i'll give it a try in the field.