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Made the leap. One F-75 ordered from a Findmall sponsor tonight.

Idaho-Marke

New member
$1,000 +/- is a lot of money to me, but based on all your posts, I went for it and time is going to last forever until it arrives.

Saw some f-75's for less on e-bay, but I wanted to support the dealers on these forums even if it costs a little more. I really appreciate their insight and this is my second sponsor purchased MD.

I appreciate all the other posters here as well especially when you all give settings. I'm sure I'm going to be leaning on your experience. Never met such a decent group of people as MDers.

Thx all.
 
Good for you! When it comes I can talk you through a basic coin shooting setup that has been very good for my area.

I gotta say I had a disappointing hunt with mine this lunchtine. Only two cents. However, this is an incredibly trashy site where a house was recently razed into it's own foundation and then graded and has more shallow metal than Iraq. I swear they ran 1/2" copper water waterpipe through a limb shredder. Little bits everywhere. These are the first two coins I have found; two prior visits with the Minelab were interesting but coinless. This site is a challenge for sure.
 
[quote KurtB]Could you let us all know your coin shooting setup? Thanks.[/quote]

Gladly

Discrimination - 55
Notch - 35 (the upper & lower slashes in Nickels should then be be off)
Mode - Bottle Cap
Tones - Delta Pitch
Use FASTGRAB (pushing the trigger forward while pumping) and then go to ALL METAL and add two for positive GB.
Use a two second sweep for a full 5 ft arc.

The delta pitch gives a very high "ZIP!" for dimes on up and, in trashy spots like parks, the bottle cap mode breaks up the tones of caps. I suspect some gold rings would get by this setup, but coins don't seem to. Dig anything that gives a VDI number that doesn't alter more than one unit when you 'X" over it side-to-side and front-to-back.

That leaves sensitivity. I have been using between 28 and 60. I would recommend getting to the site you want to hunt, do all the above settings, and then hold the coil motionless over the ground (in a spot with no metal) and crank it up until you get some random chatter, then back off five or ten. You'll know when hunting if it is a good setting from the background signals. I used 32 today based on Mark still in NC's recommendations and it was very stable.
 
I'd much rather line the pockets of a participating sponsor than give money to some nameless entity on Ebay, even if it meant spending a dollar or two more. you'll likely get taken care of in a much classier fashion, and it helps support this site. Streak!
 
I lowered the discrimination to 50 and Mark's sensitivity reccommendation of 32 is very stable, though I up it as conditions allow. It's proving to be quite a coin shooter for me. I'll have to find a relic spot. Pretty far behind the lines up here for CW activity and too far West for AWI (American War of Indepencence - the Politically Correct name of that early unpleasantry :wacko:).

Dig anything that doesn't move more than two or three units on the TID dispay with those settings and it will most likely be a coin. If you hunt a spot with a lot of aluminum cans I am finding it well worthwhile to do a long pinpoint "X" routine and lift the coil to see how it fades. If it seems too wide and the numbers move along the scale instead of just stopping it could be a can.

One recommendataion I used to make with the Musketeer was to dig every signal to learn what they are and how the machine reacts. With the F-75 I ran out of patience and now dig only the occasional odd signel to see what it is. Torn meniscus in my left knee means a little more pain by the end of the day if I dig every signal. I get LOTS of signals, but can focus easily on the coins. I'm starting to even ignore the post '82 cents in parks where I know they will be corroded and ugly. In old parks where there is a chance of older coins I dig anything coin like.
 
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