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LTD?- most reliable way to discern dime vrs mem cent

osgood

Member
I've had the unit since Feb and really enjoy it. Re VID numbers and overall usage, I have a fair fix (that is fairly predictable results) on quarters, nickels, half dollars, wheat backs, Indian heads, but nothing stumps me more than the memorial cent vrs the dime. There are times I say OK it is a dime and dig, and lo it is a mem cent, and conversely, this is definitely a mem cent, and dig, but no it is a dime. Ill admit for silver I see numbers in the 80's and higher, but even than the mem cent might stump me there. One thing that seems perhaps a little more consistent is a dime, when it locks on , the ID number spread, seems to vary less, while the penny locking on might jump around more with a wider spread of numbers, When pinpointing Im hearing a difference, that the penny being a more low pitched whine or grunt, is that your experience? So do you all who have been using the units a while have suggestions for discerning the difference or reliable numbers you trust for the dimes vrs the mem cent in re dig or not to dig decisions? I know this is not always an exact science and I dig a lot of questionable, it just sometimes , I have a limited time to be out there, and want to make the most of the time, etc. Thanks for any input, CO
 
There is no perfect way of knowing which it is you're hearing before you dig but there are some things that will boost the percentages more often than not. Many times, especially on shallower clad dimes where the ID will flirt with or lock moreso on 84 vs the 82/83 of a copper memorial penny. Keep in mind that is one of those "usually" things. The other thing is since the dime is smaller/less mass, you can usually hear the difference in the foot print and the sound of a dime vs a penny if you bother checking the target in AM before you dig.Also, if you continue to swing right over the target in small say 3" swaths and slowly raise the coil as you're doing so, the dime's volume will deteriate quicker. In spite of all that, it was just yesterday I was letting a friend use my Gamma and he asked the same question so I "expertly" and with confidence :lmfao :told him that the "82" target he was examining was a penny but he dug it anyway and it was a dime. Through the course of the morning and because that had happened, I dug several solid 82's and it was always a dime also. Go figure. The actual pennys (with one exception) were holding the 82/83 bouncing ID's so perhaps one might want to add that variation to the list of criteria. To further add confusion, there was a copper penny that was positioned flat with no masking onject near it and it read a solid 79. I will assume that the difference from the norm was due to a slight alloy variation because it read the same out of the ground. Like I said, nothing is absolute in making this call, but you can start making some high percentage assumptions once you see what the site and the daily conditions are doing to ID's.
 
BB, I know what you mean about the footprint, unless the dime is silver, the copper will have a more solid clunk sound, where as the dime I describe as a more bell like, and excited sound. I notch out zinks fairly well. Of course any these consistencies, when the target is real shallow, gets thrown for a loop. I will try your suggestions, as to a quick check in AM. Actually most of my clad quarters
ring in at eighty two- eighty four (82-84). Lots of times when I see a seventy five (75) in the mix of a real bouncy signal I start thinking mem penny. Meanwhile my dimes might come in at a seventy - seventy two. (70-72) but sometimes they' re sixty five (65), go figure, unless silver when i get more consistent numbers in the eighties. (80's) CO
 
Same principles hold true but I mistakenly was referring to the Tek ID system instead of the Fisher so just apply it to the different scale. Geeze... Don't know what possessed me to post before coffee. :blush:
 
Lol Brad ,I know what you're talking about on the coffee......You always post good info.....hh......Dan
 
I use 3h tones quite a bit and find that most zinc cents, those from in part of 1982 to present, USUALLY give a mid tone. Most wheaties and Mem. cents up to 1982 will give a high tone. Some wheats and almost all IH cents do, though, come in with a mid tone. So, depending on the site, by only digging the high tones, one will miss some wheats, IH cents and some of the other older coin varieties. HH jim tn
 
i use the t-2 and find the same thing on the dimes and copper pennies but i have even more trouble with nickles and pulltabs. unless i'm hunting a woodchip area i just disc. out the nickles. sounds like the f-75 is better in that area.
 
chuck, I am finding the same with the Omega and nickels/tabs as you are with the T 2 and when I had one, as well. The F 75 and F 75 LTD are great on nickels. Hh jim tn
 
Thanks for the advice on the penny vrs dime issue. I still with the 75ltd at times get stumped on nickels, even with a firm lock on. The only thing that cues me sometimes is the sound of true nickel gives kind of a more authoritative, and very consistent knock. As we all noted this is not always an exacting science. I use a 3 tone, and agree with the IH cent comment hitting on mid tones, and the care needed not to miss out on them. Ive found the LTD good at notching out zincs, unless they are right on the surface. CO
 
hey I've done that too Brad. :lol: At least we know what machines you are using most nowadays.

Got a nice T-O8 94/95 yesterday! :thumbup:

Tom
 
n/t
 
I am currently struggling with the nickel thing with the Omega. It just id's to many tabs, tab pieces and small slaw as lock on nickels. Going back to my CZ 6 and Cz 3d days and up through the F 75 and F 75 LTD, the best nickel machine for me has been the F 75. The LTD is good, but at some depth, tends to be a bit more bouncy then was the F 75. However, the LTD does seem to have a tight number bounce, so that helps in id'ing them for dig determination. HH jim tn
 
with 3 tone on the t-2 zinc cents give a lowet tone and nickles give a high tone but i believe that pulltabs that cone in the nickle range also give the high tone.
 
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