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lower shaft seized to upper shaft on excal-now what??

bootyhoundpa

Well-known member
hi all... last year i bought a used excal-1000..... i used it once at the shore,several times in farm fields and several times in fresh water...... my problem is that i will be going to the shore on vacation and would like to break it down for traveling BUT no matter how hard i try i can not get the lower fiberglass shaft free from the upper aluminum shaft....... any ideas,or your experience in this matter would be greatly appreciated...... i would like to separate them with out breaking.....to make matters worse the rod is currently set between notches meaning that little rod spring loaded thingy is under the aluminum....so far i have tried running scalding hot tap water over it and also smacked the aluminum shaft with a hammer in the area where both shafts meet....she just wont budge....thanx in advance......bootyhoundpa..
 
Bootyhoundpa, I have used a penetrating oil called LIQUID WRENCH which is a GUNK product, it frees rusted bolts and parts. Hope this will help you. Good luck, GH, Don
 
dfxone said:
Bootyhoundpa, I have used a penetrating oil called LIQUID WRENCH which is a GUNK product, it frees rusted bolts and parts. Hope this will help you. Good luck, GH, Don

You can use that or I would say get some silicon lube and try that. if all else fails, try some baby oil :detecting:
 
I have seen that problem before with hunters that have only been on a short vacation ? so it sounds like your gonna have fun !!!!! :sadwalk: In the past the problem has been fine particles of sand / grit that gets down the inside of the blue tube and between the carbon fiber bottom shaft , that starts to erode the inside of the Ally blue tube . Dont be tempted to tap or hammer the blue tube or you could dent it and make things worse :rage: ? I think you should try running a thin tube connected to a hose pipe and with the blue shaft upside down leave it flowing for a long time to try and flush some of the particles out with the help of flowing water and gravity ? ------------- hot water on the blue shaft may help it expand and possibly release the carbon shaft ? if a friend could hold the blue handle, while a 10mm rod is put thru the coil bolt hole and counter twist action may free it, ? and if all else fails-------- try carefully tapping carbon shaft into the blue handle to try and release some of the particals and work it counter clockwise again ?
Other than that advice if all fails you can cut the remaining length of carbon shaft off and use it for a dive shaft ? and Im sure many hunters that have upgraded to the long shaft will have an old blue handle for sale , and replace the carbon shaft $$$$$$$$$$$.:nopity:
I wouldnt use oil based fluids as it may clog /cling to the sand that really needs to flushed out to allow clearance between the two tubes
best of luck hope my advice helps :wiggle:
regards Tony Weston :ukflag:
 
bootyhoundpa,

Go to Home Depot and purchase PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst (white can, red/black labeling, yellow cap with "Blaster" printed on it...about the size of a spray paint can). The local Home Depot has this on one of the aisle end caps near the flashlights... ??? Anyway, spray this into the small shaft holes (lower shaft spring lock holes) and let the fluid settle, and also down the shaft allowing the fluid to flow down the inner wall of the upper shaft. Rotate the shaft as you spray the PB Blaster so that the fluid contacts the top of the lower shaft at all points. Turn the shaft upside down and spray the outside of the lower shaft and let it flow down to the joint. Stand the shaft in a corner and let this stuff work overnight. If the upper shaft is not corroded too badly, you should be able to loosen it after a day. Be sure to spray this stuff outside as it does have a strong petroleum odor (base). Also, be sure to remove the coil gaskets before you start as the petroleum based solvent will damage the gaskets....

Another trick is to use small strap wrenches which offer a little more torque than you can apply by hand (Harbor Freight). Be sure to clean the PB Blaster off the shafts "before" using strap wrenches, as the PB Blaster is slicker than a gooses a$$ and will deteriorate the straps.

Once you get the shafts apart, clean both thoroughly in "hot" soapy water. Let them dry, then apply a liberal coating of silicone grease (any dive shop) to the upper part of the lower fiberglass shaft. This will prevent the "salt lock" in the future. Good luck... I've been there :)

Regards,
Dave
 
I rinse mine everytime I water hunt, fresh or salt, then after it dries, apply a thin coat of electrical grease, I learned the hard way, had to replace this lower rod after I cracked it. Never have had that problem again. HH
 
If it is white deposits between the shafts, it is probably calcium carbonate, or some similar salt. If other ideas don't work you could try some White Distilled Vinegar or something like ZEP brand cleaner for Calcium, Rust and Lime deposits, found at Home Depot, Grocery Stores etc.
 
thank you all so much for the feedback.....after hours of hot water,wd-40,hammering the area where both shafts are joined on an anvil,tugging,pulling,using the vise as a guide and yank slamming the lower shaft after the round black snugger thing bottoms out on the shaft,even heated with a torch..NOTHING...that thing just will not see it my way...fortunatly my job had me in the area of a dealer who happened to have replacment shafts in stock......not exactly the route i wanted to go but i know when im whooped.....i can still use the old shaft the way it is but just cant adjust it.....dealer and a fellow treasure hunter told me to soak it in water and eventually what evers holding it to gether will soften up...........im truly amazed that after all the stress i put that shaft thru that i didnt break it---yet..... thanx again....if i get it apart i will post the rest of the story......
 
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