Find's Treasure Forums
Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!
You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.
Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.
Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.
Click here to register!
Need Support Help?
Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you
Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.
Los banos cz3d
- Thread starter Texan
- Start date
To the best of my knowledge, all the 1121 units were also made in Los Banos. I believe they started using a different numbering system when Fisher was bought by First Texas.
Tom Dankowski said the earlier 1121s had better odds to be design intent units than the later ones. My 1121 is in the upper 400's so 199 is a fairly early number. If you haven't already done so, $100 plus one way shipping costs to have Tom calibrate and certify your detector will give you better performance and probably increase resale value should you decide to sell down the road.
Tom Dankowski said the earlier 1121s had better odds to be design intent units than the later ones. My 1121 is in the upper 400's so 199 is a fairly early number. If you haven't already done so, $100 plus one way shipping costs to have Tom calibrate and certify your detector will give you better performance and probably increase resale value should you decide to sell down the road.
HaroldILL.
Active member
All the 1121s were Los banos made. It was the tail end of the run. The First Texas units has a different number system. Some say they were not as closely watched on calibration because employee's knew that the end was near so didn't care as much to take the time and do it rite.
I had a 1121 and it was hot, But too Hot as Falsed on iron more then other 1021s I owned. I even have a FT Model now that is a lot smoother and Just as deep. But that is more the exception than the rule. Any doubts send to Tom as it will be at its best once done.
I had a 1121 and it was hot, But too Hot as Falsed on iron more then other 1021s I owned. I even have a FT Model now that is a lot smoother and Just as deep. But that is more the exception than the rule. Any doubts send to Tom as it will be at its best once done.
Mike Hillis
Well-known member
Have to take care with the Tom certification. I would only send a unit to Tom if the dime air tests were greater than 11". Once he certifies a dog it stays a dog forever and it appears the dogs are hard to even give away.
HH
Mike
HH
Mike
Mike makes a very good point that I overlooked.
Air testing will give you a rough idea of how hot your cz-3d. The amount of depth increase Tom can squeeze out is at most about half an inch. Now if you are are air testing a dime at say 9" (Tom uses a clad dime for depth certification), you are not going to be happy with the depth number your unit certifies at. On the other hand, regardless of depth, Tom has exacting standards he calibrates to. Your unit will perform better and you'll have peace of mind that your cz-3d is the best it can be after he calibrates it.
If you buy a non-verified cz-3d used, it's possible that the seller has removed Tom's certification sticker. If you can get the serial #, I believe Tom has a database of units he has certified that he will check for you. Be skeptical of anyone selling used unwilling to share the s/n.
Air testing will give you a rough idea of how hot your cz-3d. The amount of depth increase Tom can squeeze out is at most about half an inch. Now if you are are air testing a dime at say 9" (Tom uses a clad dime for depth certification), you are not going to be happy with the depth number your unit certifies at. On the other hand, regardless of depth, Tom has exacting standards he calibrates to. Your unit will perform better and you'll have peace of mind that your cz-3d is the best it can be after he calibrates it.
If you buy a non-verified cz-3d used, it's possible that the seller has removed Tom's certification sticker. If you can get the serial #, I believe Tom has a database of units he has certified that he will check for you. Be skeptical of anyone selling used unwilling to share the s/n.
The main reason I am sending it in is to know how one performs set at its potential. My hunting buddy has one that is not Tom tuned and this will give us an idea when we hunt.If he schools me in finds that will give him bs to kid me about. No way to know which machine is performing at its best unless you have one tuned.11 inches in Texas clay is almost impossible to dig even when saturated. I will be interested in seeing if my nickel finds increase.
Sounds like you two have a good natured rivalry going on.
I can't argue with you about raw depth. The TRX has more than the Carrot.
The Racer wasn't my cup of tea either but I know some swear by it.
The cz-3d took some time for me to reach a good level of proficiency. It's a K.I.S.S. detector, but deciphering the iron falsing takes practice and it will test your patience at times...especially when you use it in a spot loaded with nails and other small iron.
I can't argue with you about raw depth. The TRX has more than the Carrot.
The Racer wasn't my cup of tea either but I know some swear by it.
The cz-3d took some time for me to reach a good level of proficiency. It's a K.I.S.S. detector, but deciphering the iron falsing takes practice and it will test your patience at times...especially when you use it in a spot loaded with nails and other small iron.
