Long-time Explorer user, new to CTX...two questions...

[sgoss66]

Hi all,

I just purchased a CTX from a friend; bought 5 years ago but barely used. Can't wait to get started; I'm reading all I can trying to get "up to speed."

While I'm sure I'll have many more, I have two questions. First, the easy one...

I use SunRay Pro Gold headphones, and don't want to have to buy a new, CTX-specific set. I know there is a 1/4 male mono to 1/4" female stereo adapter, but others have talked about how it "sticks way out," and is thus less than optimal. I found this particular 90 degree adapter that I THINK will do the trick, but wanted to check with someone who could tell me for sure...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/right-angle-6-35mm-1-4-mono-male-plug-to-trs-stereo-female-jack-529/382220947457?epid=675657713&hash=item58fe24d001:m:mv-n0FpW3D6xuz_28r4rb3Q

The other question is this...

Coming to the CTX from an Explorer, I am so used to the tones on the Explorer. I always hunted in Conductive Sounds, and maxed out my variability to as to have the maximum number of tones. Does the "multi-tone" option on the CTX emulate the Explorer tones fairly well? In other words, is there a way to set up the CTX so that the tones are reasonably similar to hunting an Explorer in maximum variability, conductive tones?

Thanks!

Steve

 

[sube]

I got my adapter from radio shack 2 dollars as far as tones I would use 50 conductive witch gives each # a different sound I also used a explorer 2 this is probably as close as you can get . sube

 

[IDXMonster]

Steve....you're awesome because you've TRUSTED that there may be a "better mousetrap". You won't be disappointed. I have to go hunting right now but when I get back,if no one else has expounded on this topic I will post back my opinions of what works for me and why. Just take it hunting and spend time with it. And don't forget,while some things are quite familiar,it is NOT an Explorer.

 

[Jason in Enid]

I dont think you need a special headphone plug to work with the WM-10. ITs only when you plug directly into the headphone adapter plug that you need a certain type for it to shut off the built-in speaker. I never plug into the detector (except for waterproof phones) so I'm not 100%.

 

[IDXMonster]

Ok I'm back...Steve,IF you enjoy the multi tones,you will see when you choose the 50 Tone under Tone Profile that there are tones starting at 90khz and the highest I don't recall...but you can change the 90khz to 75khz and the upper one set at 1200khz. This expands the tones just a bit and besides that,there is no Variability setting. Furthermore,changing your Threshold pitch does NOT change the range of tones such as on your SE.
IMHO,an extremely powerful feature is running Combined tones,where you can set the tone you want to hear for 5 different ranges. And they are ALL totally adjustable,so here's what I do. I'll set my bin furthest to the right at 1200khz and that's all I listen for...one tone,the highest the machine has. As far as the bin size,I'll set the last bin to accommodate 32-50 IF I'm in a site with IH cents. If NOT, I'll set it from 38-50,with the Ferrous line set down at 23 for both occasions. It's not what everybody does,it's what I do. Working on 110 silver coins for 2017 so it must be somewhat effective.

 

[sgoss66]

Thanks everyone, really appreciate you all taking time to help me out.

sube -- do you happen to have an online link to the specific adapter you bought? I am hoping the one I posted in that link is the right one, and it's a 90 degree adapter, which would keep it from sticking out so far...

Jason, YES -- I do think any headphones work with the WM10, as you said. I'm just thinking about the worst-case scenario where I am out hunting, and my WM10 runs out of battery; I'd then need to plug in my headphones "direct" to the control box, so buying the adapter is just for "backup," for that "worst-case scenario."

YES, IDX, I do think the CTX may just be a "better mousetrap." I know a few guys that hunt the CTX here locally, and they have gained a lot of experience on them now (Jason in Enid for one, plus two other guys who are good friends of mine...all three of whom hunted FBS machines prior to the CTX). All three of these guys have vouched for the fact that the CTX is an upgrade over FBS1 (Explorer/E-Trac series), just as you are saying.

As well as I have done with my Explorers, and with how "in tune" with the Explorer sounds I have become over the years, it's tough to think about moving to something different. But I trust these three guys, and all three -- plus you -- believe strongly that you can hunt even better/more effectively with FBS2 than with FBS1. So, I think it's about time I see what all the fuss is about!

And thanks IDX for the info on the 50 tones, and you answered another question I had -- about whether changing the threshold tone changed your other tones as well, like on the Explorer/E-Trac. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I intend to set up a couple of modes where I use that multi-tone option, but... EVERYONE I have talked to -- you, Jason, my two friends, everyone -- insist that running combined is the preferred way to set things up. So, I will take that advice and set up most of my modes that way.

You said you set your ferrous line at 23, but run it open screen, right? One thing I wonder is, why is it better to run combined, and set your ferrous line at 23, VERSUS running 4-tone conductive, and setting your "iron mask" or "disc line" or whatever it is called on the CTX, at 23. If you did that, you'd have nulling for any target below FE 23 whereas running combined, you'll hear a low-tone grunt for any target below 23. Either way seems like a viable option, but NO ONE I have talked to sets disc at a given FE line and below, and then runs 4-tone conductive. EVERYONE runs combined, instead, and sets their FE line at a given spot. I can understand the advantage of "hearing the iron," but you sort of "hear it" either way, it's just that instead of a "grunt" when running combined, you would hear a "null" when you pass over a nail or whatever if you were running 4-tone with iron disc. Why is combined with no discrimination preferred to 4-tone with iron discrimination?

Finally IDX, thanks for the info on the conductive bins. Makes sense to me why you set it at 32 (if there are IH's around) or 38 (if just targeting silver) and then just listening for that one highest 1200 kHz tone...that does sound like a DEADLY way to target silver, specifically...

THANK YOU, everyone, who has chimed in here. This all helps...

Steve

 

[mascard1]

Put a little wire like this...From the black to the blue wire..just twist it on ,,,so you can remove if you want later.....you will be good to go!

 

[IDXMonster]

Put a little wire like this...From the black to the blue wire..just twist it on ,,,so you can remove if you want later.....you will be good to go!

Hey,that's not bad! They all work with the WM10 AFAIK but if you want to go straight into the machine,I think this little wire in the phones is what shuts the machines speaker down,correct mascard?

 

[IDXMonster]

Yes Steve,the Ferrous line can be set via 5 bins wide open or 4 bins with 4TC and just disced out...but you know in really nasty areas it CAN be beneficial to hear it all. You'll have to test it out both ways and see what works for you. Lots to play with,or not. It's easy to get going,really, and you have some great help close by. Knowing your way around the controls is REALLY something you want to get down so you're comfortable with making adjustments if desired.

 

[sgoss66]

Hey Mascard, thanks for that tip. That seems like a good, easy fix.

I have another one for you, that maybe you can help with...I have an old set of Killer Bees at home, that I always used without issue on a Fisher Gold Bug Pro and F-19. Just tonight, though, I tried plugging them into an E-Trac, and they won't work. I flipped the switch on the ear piece, and still nothing. Forgive my ignorance, as I've always hunted Pro Golds on my FBS machines, but are there some Killer Bee models that won't work on an E-Trac no matter which way you flip the toggle switch? Or, is there something wrong inside the phones that they are not working with the E-Trac? If it is something wrong inside them, is that something you could assist in helping me troubleshoot/fix?

IDXMonster, thanks for the info. Yes, I hear you that it can sometimes be beneficial to "hear it all." Everyone I talked to runs combined, not 4-tone conductive, with iron disc. Must be a good reason for it, which I expect I'll discover once I start running the unit at some of my sites. But that's really good advice, about making sure I really learn how to make all the adjustments, so that I can quickly do so while hunting -- even to just "interrogate" a particular target better, with different modes/settings...makes sense.

Just curious -- I know there is one button that is "programmable." What did you personally program that button to do? I think it defaults to being a "backlight" button, but I think most reprogram it so to do other things. What did you program it to do, and why?

Steve

 

[IDXMonster]

Steve-The User Button I programmed to go to Previous Mode. Essentially it's again about being able to interrogate a target quickly with as much ammo as possible,for me.

 

[sgoss66]

IDX -- OK, thanks. Previous mode...OK, makes sense -- so that means you have the potential to quickly switch between two modes. Since you can apparently have 2 disc. patterns per mode, if you hit the User button to go back to the previous mode, is there then a way to quickly switch between the two disc. patterns in that mode? Is it the Detect button that does that?

Steve

 

[dewcon4414]

If you are connected....... id just put a CTX connector on one pair of your phones. Right now id dare say if your phones arent right you aint getting the volume from them that a CTX connector will give you done correctly.

Running all the tones will allow you to hear more targets...... down side is in a lot of trash it may chop the signals with its recovery speed. I had to retrain my brain from to listen to lower tones because digging change was a time waster for me. Not as trashy in the water either..... but i will tell you ive dug earrings made of Con metal and Fer posts and the machine will give both signals. I use 5 tones because of the adjustments......... GREAT for water hunting.

Dew

 

[IDXMonster]

Steve...yes,the detect button goes between the disc patterns,user button between two modes. You have 4 screens to look at a target with very quickly!

 

[sgoss66]

IDXMonster, wow. That's really interesting, then. Two button pushes and you have four different mode/pattern combinations to interrogate a target. That's REALLY cool...

dewcon --

A few things...first off, thanks for the CTX detecting info. I struggle to believe (though I do believe you) that this machine can give you a ferrous tone for the FE post of an earring, and the CO tone for the non-ferrous part of the earring...

As for the headphones, I think I may have muddied the water. The Killer Bees headphones question is separate. I don't know if some Killer Bees are not SUPPOSED to work with FBS, or what, but I would have thought that toggle switch would let them work on FBS. But they don't. I wanted them for use on an E-Trac, not the CTX. So, if I can repair them to get them to work on the E-Trac, I'd like to try.

MEANWHILE, I want to use my Pro Golds on the CTX. Usually, I'll use them with the WM10, but my thought is, if the WM10 battery dies "in the field." I'd like to have the plan B option to just direct-connect my Pro Golds to the unit, and this is where the issue comes in. So, I'm trying to find an adapter to use, so that I can put that "plan B" into action if my WM10 batteries die while hunting. Now, you are saying "just use the CTX connector," but I don't know what you mean by that. Is there a connector of some sort for the CTX that would allow me to direct-attach my non-CTX Pro Golds into the CTX control box? (Remember, I'm a CTX newb, don't even have the unit in my hands yet; it's coming tomorrow...)

Thanks!

Steve

 

[dewcon4414]

Steve...im saying put a M12 connector on those phones connecting them as I showed.

Steve I can only tell you.... ive found a LOT of junk earrings with double tones.... in the salt water. Like a pull tab.... dig enough u know um.

 

[sgoss66]

dewcon --

OH. Now I see what you are saying. You are suggesting chopping off the regular headphone connector, and just putting on an "M12" connector (wasn't familiar with that word, but I now get it, from looking at your diagram).

Problem there is, if I do that, THEN I can't connect those phones to the WM10. So, I'm back to needing to build a "jumper." I COULD build a jumper or patch cord that has the M12 connector on one end, and a regular, stereo, female "headphone" type of connector on the other end, right? Maybe buy a 12" patch cord with stereo female on both ends, cut off one end, and attach the "M12" connector, and "voila?"

Steve

 

[JackalopeZL1]

I must admit I did not read the whole thread but if your WM10 goes dead you can already just plug directly into the machine. Maybe you guys are talking about something else?


EDIT:: You must be talking about making the external volume shut off when you plug in the headphone? I am laughing at myself right now, With the 1000's of hrs I have run the ctx I can't remember ever running anything other than the WM10 since I hate being attached to my machine. I did have a set of the CTX specific pro golds and loved their sound but hated the separate switch. I always would bump it and find myself having to switch it while detecting so I ran the koss most of the time, I am one of the odd balls who likes the koss headphones and I was too lazy to jump the switch to be permanent.

 

[sgoss66]

Yeah, Jackalope, talking about the "speaker shut off" issue. My Pro Golds are not CTX-specific, so I was just trying to rig up some "backup" plan in the even my WM10 failed or batteries went dead while on a hunt. Probably overkill/worrying about nothing, but I like redundancy!

Yes, plugging them in directly would be fine, IF I had CTX-specific Pro Golds. I don't, so I need an "adapter," as I understand. And as I understand, it needs to be male 1/4" mono on one end, and female 1/4" stereo on the other. Then, you are good to go, if I understand. However, some have complained that having that adapter sticking out the back side of the CTX -- and then the headphone jack plugged into that, leaves like a 3-4" long rigid connection sticking straight out of the CTX control box. So, Digger, in thread here several years back, rigged up a "patch cable" where it essentially did the trick, but with a "flexible" option, instead of that rigid male-to-female adapter. I want to either rig one of those "patch cables," or else -- I saw a 90 degree adapter that I THINK would work. I posted links to both the adapter, AND to the parts I THINK I would need to build a "patch cable" like Digger did, I'm just waiting for someone to confirm that I have the right parts here (either the adapter, or the parts to build the "adapter patch cable").

Steve

 

[vladorado]

A word of warning. I bought a cheap adapter plug from the e-bay to use the blue xp bacphones. The tip of the adapter got detached and stuck in the socket of my WM10 wireless unit. I was lucky to get the socket replaced for free under the warranty by Steve Cox at MSR in the UK. Thanks Steve!