Hi All. I was wondering if someone could post an intro. "set-up" video for the Coinstrike? I have seen Bill Ladd's F5 video, and I think that was such an awesome idea. I think every detector should have such a set-up video. I'm no expert on video making, but I think youtube only allows about 10 minutes of video to post. But from what I've read, and experienced myself, is the problem beginners have with properly setting the threshold and sensitivity settings. I have read that alot of beginners,(myself included), have a fear of not getting as deep as possible, and so the sensitivity seems to get jacked way up. But from my understanding, the threshold goes hand-in-hand with the sensitivity settings to get the most optimal performance from the machine. But with myself not truly understanding the threshold control,(I've really been trying to), I end up getting frustrated and I end up resorting to "factory-preset" controls when I get to a site. I hear alot about "falsing," and "chattering" as signs that the detector is not properly set, but without really experiencing this, or being shown it, I don't truly understand it. Then there's auto-tracking...? So I was just wondering if someone could make a 5-10 minute video "set-up" that would include what the machine would actually sound like when it's "not set correctly?" This I believe would show other beginners what to look for in an "improperly set" machine(i.e...chattering, noise, etc...). And how one would/could try to remedy this. I've actually written and even spoken with a few members on here about threshold and sensitivity, but I think I probably just learn best by actually seeing something being done...just like Bill Ladd's awesome F5 video. I would have to watch it again, but I'm not sure if he had time in it to show an "improperly set" machine, as my suggestion for a Coinstrike video. But it still was one of the greatest ideas I've seen done on the forum. It helps so much. Thanks All. HH. Sincerely, Randy
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I was wondering if someone could post an Intro. Coinstrike video?
- Thread starter yogaguy
- Start date
BarnacleBill
New member
Hi Randy,
This is not in any way meant to be dis-respectful, but what you're requesting some one to do can involve a lot of time and money. A 10 minute finished video could easily take 15 to 25 hours of production time, aside from the preparation time. Unless you've actually done something like this before, and I have hundreds of hours doing it, you don't realize how much time and effort it takes to do something with even semi-professional results. There's a reason that more of these aren't done by the manufacturers, and the bottom line is money.
I've never owned a C$ but do recognize that it's strength is it's weakness in regards to user controls. Detectors that have many user available settings, i.e. C$, DFX, Explorer etc. have a much longer learning curve. Someone could produce a C$ video with basic settings that in the video produce a deep & stable detector, but that would be in their geographic location and not yours. The same settings where you might be using it, might produce an un-usable detector.
The go to guy on the C$ is Bill Ladd, and if I recall correctly he had some recommended starting points, and then some upper limit settings where you start to walk on the wild side.
I hope you can get it worked out, as I know some users swear by it, rather than swear at it once they get the hang of it.
HH
BarnacleBill
This is not in any way meant to be dis-respectful, but what you're requesting some one to do can involve a lot of time and money. A 10 minute finished video could easily take 15 to 25 hours of production time, aside from the preparation time. Unless you've actually done something like this before, and I have hundreds of hours doing it, you don't realize how much time and effort it takes to do something with even semi-professional results. There's a reason that more of these aren't done by the manufacturers, and the bottom line is money.
I've never owned a C$ but do recognize that it's strength is it's weakness in regards to user controls. Detectors that have many user available settings, i.e. C$, DFX, Explorer etc. have a much longer learning curve. Someone could produce a C$ video with basic settings that in the video produce a deep & stable detector, but that would be in their geographic location and not yours. The same settings where you might be using it, might produce an un-usable detector.
The go to guy on the C$ is Bill Ladd, and if I recall correctly he had some recommended starting points, and then some upper limit settings where you start to walk on the wild side.
I hope you can get it worked out, as I know some users swear by it, rather than swear at it once they get the hang of it.
HH
BarnacleBill
I'd be surprised if Bill Ladd's F5 video that yogaguy is talking about took more than 45 minutes of planning, 30 minutes of shooting, and 60 minutes of post production and upload time. Out of that came a nice 11 minute intro to the F5 (and he had fun doing it!)
I think you're underestimating how little is needed from the video to actually help people. In fact, although the flashy production makes the videos look and sound nice, it sometimes hurts the intent - that being to help other detectorists and sell more detectors. Most detectorists just want to see how the producer uses his detector -- seldom do we care what they actually found. In fact, it's MADDENING when a video producer where's headphones and NEVER digs a bottle cap (fisher) or nail (explorer). Most of us are watching those videos closely for the parts the producer wasn't intending for us to focus on. For example, I was pleased to see several F75 videos on youtube where the detector chatters like crazy when it's laying on the ground. I paid no attention to the already dug hole that a silver coin appears in....
LAdigger helped me immensely with a 9 minute video with little post production or pre-planning. It wasn't necessarily instructional, it was just him hunting. I think most people in the hobby get these detectors in the mail with a 20 page (or less - FISHER!
) manual and no one to compare notes with. Heck, often you don't even know if it's operating correctly. I worked with my F75 for over a month before I gave up and sent it in for service. I kept it based on people telling me it was working correctly, and I was the problem. Digitrich just posted a similar story.
I'd like to encourage all hobbyists with a video camera to just film themselves setting up the detector and digging stuff. Who cares if it's a bottle cap... there's even something to be learned from that.
I think you're underestimating how little is needed from the video to actually help people. In fact, although the flashy production makes the videos look and sound nice, it sometimes hurts the intent - that being to help other detectorists and sell more detectors. Most detectorists just want to see how the producer uses his detector -- seldom do we care what they actually found. In fact, it's MADDENING when a video producer where's headphones and NEVER digs a bottle cap (fisher) or nail (explorer). Most of us are watching those videos closely for the parts the producer wasn't intending for us to focus on. For example, I was pleased to see several F75 videos on youtube where the detector chatters like crazy when it's laying on the ground. I paid no attention to the already dug hole that a silver coin appears in....
LAdigger helped me immensely with a 9 minute video with little post production or pre-planning. It wasn't necessarily instructional, it was just him hunting. I think most people in the hobby get these detectors in the mail with a 20 page (or less - FISHER!
) manual and no one to compare notes with. Heck, often you don't even know if it's operating correctly. I worked with my F75 for over a month before I gave up and sent it in for service. I kept it based on people telling me it was working correctly, and I was the problem. Digitrich just posted a similar story. I'd like to encourage all hobbyists with a video camera to just film themselves setting up the detector and digging stuff. Who cares if it's a bottle cap... there's even something to be learned from that.
Low-Boy/LCPM
Active member
I have watched videos where someone digs for ten minutes and finds a zinc penny borring.
Low-Boy said:
If it had no more than just digging, then I agree - mostly. I couldn't get my explorer to pinpoint over what I believed were deep targets. Watching ladigger's video showed me that it was a normal occurence. If I gained some piece of knowledge about the detector or the hunting style, then 10 minutes isn't a lot of time. I actually think it was one of your videos that I caught the F75 chattering while laying next to you. I'm the only one I know with an F75 so that was an important piece to knowing what is normal. If you had music playing during that part, I wouldn't have caught that. The belt buckle coming out was interesting but not as important. I'm always glad to see people find fun stuff, but I'm normally watching videos to learn something. I'd much rather watch Die-Hard if I want suprises and action.
Watching someone pull valuable coins out of already-dug holes with music blasting away is what I find boring (sorry guys!). It's kind of like watching a magic show on TV.
Jackpine Savage
Active member
Yogaguy,
The C$ was my primary detector for 3 years except for a (very) short stint with another manufacturers machine. After a while I gave up trying to figure out just how the threshold and sensitivity played together. I guess the best way to describe the threshold is like the squelch control on a CB radio. Actually thats not quite right either but... Oh well
Some places where the C$ is struggling with EMI interference you just have to walk a short distance to get away from it. In my experience its takes more than one source to cause problems. ie. normal size powerlines in town are not a problem except perhaps when peak demand is on or, combine powerlines with another form or interference and then you may have problems.
Basically, my hot setup was sens 8 and threshold -10. I believe that gets you 95% or better of the depth its capable of on coins size targets. Heavy modern trash is no problem at 8 -10 once you become accustomed to the fast recovery and audio in heavy target/trash areas.
Let me add that I seldom hunt sites with a lot of modern trash (foil, tabs, can slaw ect) However, the few times I did I was amazed at how well the C$ and stock coil would pull high conductive coins out at very decent depths in the modern litter without averaging down the TID. If it hit with a high tone and the TID number was on or close then it was a coin. The C$ has been always known as being a good relic and old site hunter. Am I the only one that saw what it can do as a turf hunter???
I did have somewhat mixed results hunting old sites with lots of shallow rusty iron or rotting tin cans. I have had the C$ set at 4 -40 or 5 -25 out hunt with less falsing my 1270 and ML Advantage in those condition. Then at other sites with seemingly the same conditions the falsing was bad enough to be a problem. Never could figure out what the difference was from site to site but when it works it works very well. Hunted a fresh water beach once that had some decomposing tin/cans buried down deep and pulled some deep old silvers right out of the middle of the mess. That was an eye opener for sure!!
A few basic setups is all one needs. After a couple months of use I quit worrying about whether or not I should have the sensitivity set another notch higher/lower or whether I had the threshold set "just right" for conditions. The fact that it was working well with good results was enough.
Sounds like I got myself talked into getting another one
HH Tom
The C$ was my primary detector for 3 years except for a (very) short stint with another manufacturers machine. After a while I gave up trying to figure out just how the threshold and sensitivity played together. I guess the best way to describe the threshold is like the squelch control on a CB radio. Actually thats not quite right either but... Oh well
Some places where the C$ is struggling with EMI interference you just have to walk a short distance to get away from it. In my experience its takes more than one source to cause problems. ie. normal size powerlines in town are not a problem except perhaps when peak demand is on or, combine powerlines with another form or interference and then you may have problems.
Basically, my hot setup was sens 8 and threshold -10. I believe that gets you 95% or better of the depth its capable of on coins size targets. Heavy modern trash is no problem at 8 -10 once you become accustomed to the fast recovery and audio in heavy target/trash areas.
Let me add that I seldom hunt sites with a lot of modern trash (foil, tabs, can slaw ect) However, the few times I did I was amazed at how well the C$ and stock coil would pull high conductive coins out at very decent depths in the modern litter without averaging down the TID. If it hit with a high tone and the TID number was on or close then it was a coin. The C$ has been always known as being a good relic and old site hunter. Am I the only one that saw what it can do as a turf hunter???
I did have somewhat mixed results hunting old sites with lots of shallow rusty iron or rotting tin cans. I have had the C$ set at 4 -40 or 5 -25 out hunt with less falsing my 1270 and ML Advantage in those condition. Then at other sites with seemingly the same conditions the falsing was bad enough to be a problem. Never could figure out what the difference was from site to site but when it works it works very well. Hunted a fresh water beach once that had some decomposing tin/cans buried down deep and pulled some deep old silvers right out of the middle of the mess. That was an eye opener for sure!!
A few basic setups is all one needs. After a couple months of use I quit worrying about whether or not I should have the sensitivity set another notch higher/lower or whether I had the threshold set "just right" for conditions. The fact that it was working well with good results was enough.
Sounds like I got myself talked into getting another one
HH Tom
Hi BarnacleBill. Thanks for yours and the others thought on the idea of a Coinstrike video. And I'm definetly no expert on making online videos to post. I know Bill Ladd spent alot of time on his too. And all I was really looking for in maybe someone to go to a certain site, and turn the sensitivity up and adjust the threshold to where the machine would be set "too high" to where the machine went "wacky" because of the settings. I really don't want to have any hunting done in the video. Really I'd just want someone to have the camera focused on the detector, with someone explaining..."see how the machine is reacting from these settings, well, this is an example of improperly setting the machine. Now here is how one would, or could(if possible), correct this problem." And then show how one should start off with the machine,(i.e....turn the machine on; press menu button; etc...) just showing some basic setting to start with. I realize that "conditions" will be different in all areas of the country. But I believe Bill Ladd has a "typical" beginners setting of sensitivity 5; threshold -25. But if this was'nt possible, then just have someone explain..."in this case, then you could try this...." It would really just be about showing the detector, turning it on, and showing how to do a basic "typical" set-up for the sensitivity and thrsehold. I don't need anything fancy...just the "very basics" for me...
For instance, I was speaking with someone from the forum on here, and they explained starting at sensitivity 5, and threshold -25. They then told me to turn the sensitivity up to 6 and to lower the threshold 5 numbers...then to see how this responds. If everythings o.k., then continue doing this until the machine starts to get a little wacky. Then in this case, lower back one number to the previous one. Then you do your gb. I know, I know...if I understood this correctly, and I'm stating this correctly, then I already know these things. But that's just the thing...I'm not really sure if I still understand it that well? So that's all I would want in the video. And as far as time...I'll pay someone to do it if need be. Just name the price. If that's what it takes, then that's what I'll do. I just want to understand this thing better. Like I mentioned in other e-mails to others on here. There's nothing worse than getting out to a site, and having to end up "guessing" on settings from not understanding how I could possibly correct settings. HH. Sincerely, Randy
For instance, I was speaking with someone from the forum on here, and they explained starting at sensitivity 5, and threshold -25. They then told me to turn the sensitivity up to 6 and to lower the threshold 5 numbers...then to see how this responds. If everythings o.k., then continue doing this until the machine starts to get a little wacky. Then in this case, lower back one number to the previous one. Then you do your gb. I know, I know...if I understood this correctly, and I'm stating this correctly, then I already know these things. But that's just the thing...I'm not really sure if I still understand it that well? So that's all I would want in the video. And as far as time...I'll pay someone to do it if need be. Just name the price. If that's what it takes, then that's what I'll do. I just want to understand this thing better. Like I mentioned in other e-mails to others on here. There's nothing worse than getting out to a site, and having to end up "guessing" on settings from not understanding how I could possibly correct settings. HH. Sincerely, Randy
That thing (Coinstrike) about drove me nuts at times but I've still got fond memories of that detector.----DelAhh haaaa....You mentioned the magical words tom, "a few basic set-ups is all one needs." This is exactly what I was looking for in the Coinstrike set-up,(and heck, even the video I mentioned about someone making). I agree, I'm probably going overboard with trying to figure out how to precisely get the right sensitivity and threshold settings. But for the beginners with this machine, we tend to intially set them improperly, just from a lack of understanding. So again, to everyone else, I reallt don't mean to beat this subject to death, but just hate getting somewhere and not understanding how to know when settings are "decent" for that site. Thanks Tom for the reply. HH Sincerely, Randy
Your a bit off with those times....Hopefully that was just a wild guess. 30 min of shooting? Try a few hours. What I end up jamming into an 11 min video is only about 20% of what was shot, if that. Can't you see all the cutting & pasting? I do tons of..."Naa, take 2...". etc, if I don't like that way it came out or the way I said something (or a dog barks, etc) . I have a notebook with me to write down what "take" seemed the best, etc. Then, I probably have 2 hours of extra footage that was never used. So, having to go though all that film, the editing portion on the computer took the longest......like one full day. If the F5 video does not appear that special, I was getting hounded to get something completed fast, so I did my best with the time I was allowed.....
Anyhow, I have said all along I was going to do a C$ video. I know this unit like the back of my hand & that one will be fun to do. The problem I have is several other films on my plate need to be done first. I'm field testing the new PI probe for DetectorPro (& working on an 11 min vid.) and doing all this with a hard drive full of big film files, and a camera full of "season 2" footage. I need to free up some space somewhere. Plus, doing C$ video's and Infinuim video's is great & I'd love to be of some help, but these are like side projects that I don't get compensated for, so I have to do these later on....
I have PM'ed some info on the C$ and I was hoping the excellent "coinstrike homepage" would tie YogaGuy over until I got to shoot something. I just got an external hard drive so if I can do something with all the film files hopefully I should have started soon....
HH,
Bill
. I have a notebook with me to write down what "take" seemed the best, etc. Then, I probably have 2 hours of extra footage that was never used. So, having to go though all that film, the editing portion on the computer took the longest......like one full day. If the F5 video does not appear that special, I was getting hounded to get something completed fast, so I did my best with the time I was allowed..... Anyhow, I have said all along I was going to do a C$ video. I know this unit like the back of my hand & that one will be fun to do. The problem I have is several other films on my plate need to be done first. I'm field testing the new PI probe for DetectorPro (& working on an 11 min vid.) and doing all this with a hard drive full of big film files, and a camera full of "season 2" footage. I need to free up some space somewhere. Plus, doing C$ video's and Infinuim video's is great & I'd love to be of some help, but these are like side projects that I don't get compensated for, so I have to do these later on....
I have PM'ed some info on the C$ and I was hoping the excellent "coinstrike homepage" would tie YogaGuy over until I got to shoot something. I just got an external hard drive so if I can do something with all the film files hopefully I should have started soon....
HH,
Bill
I'll put it up against any of this new stuff as far as "locking" onto a coin & being built rugged as heck to last. That's one number sticking from every direction you sweep the coil. A large cent is always a +31 which is cool. My C$ is so beat-up looking you wouldn't believe it still runs perfect (& has a lifetime warranty)......The auto ground balance & tracking is great too. If it had a trigger & DD coil I'd probably still be using it. But, I still do carry it in the car with the small donut coil on it for trashy sites...the iron being a negative number is very unique. I remember with the Excel I was in a beat VA camp that had been hunted for 30 years. But I brought the little Excel into an iron loaded spot & whenever I saw a + number flash amid all the negatives I dug. People were amazed at all the grommets & buttons & bullets that had been masked for 30 years & that was done with the stock coil......The little donut coils do that trick even better....
HH,
Bill
HH,
Bill
I totally agree with you Randy !
I have been using the C$ for approx 60 Hrs to date. I now feel confident with my setting whilst out and about. ( apart from " when i'm in heavy trash " One step at a time for me ! ) Hi, You can jump in here any time jackpine. Or you Bill. If you don't mind ? When I first bought my C$ I too felt like you and countless others no doubt, I just couldn't get my head around it. The machine sounded just like a jumbled mess to me, ( I think I might of been lucky in some respects as I had never picked up a Md before ) The C$ is a powerful Md and I understand that it should be run with as high Sensitivity that is possible whilst keeping the Threshold on " 0 " ( If possible ) Numeric ID Charts by Mike Hillis to get the most depth out of it. I also agree with a lot of other members on here that you should dig everything first of all, Just to get the feel of what the C$ is telling you ! I still dig everything on a clean field and have found coin's that have different id's from the X sweep ( I'm still learning )
I think Mike Hillis is the man to do this and complete his studies on this Top old skool Metal detector ! with a short video " How to get the best out of you Coin$trike....... We then should all have a whip round and buy him a detector of his choice for Xmas ! What do you think, Got to be a C$ eh! Mike.
HH. Clinton.
I have been using the C$ for approx 60 Hrs to date. I now feel confident with my setting whilst out and about. ( apart from " when i'm in heavy trash " One step at a time for me ! ) Hi, You can jump in here any time jackpine. Or you Bill. If you don't mind ? When I first bought my C$ I too felt like you and countless others no doubt, I just couldn't get my head around it. The machine sounded just like a jumbled mess to me, ( I think I might of been lucky in some respects as I had never picked up a Md before ) The C$ is a powerful Md and I understand that it should be run with as high Sensitivity that is possible whilst keeping the Threshold on " 0 " ( If possible ) Numeric ID Charts by Mike Hillis to get the most depth out of it. I also agree with a lot of other members on here that you should dig everything first of all, Just to get the feel of what the C$ is telling you ! I still dig everything on a clean field and have found coin's that have different id's from the X sweep ( I'm still learning )
I think Mike Hillis is the man to do this and complete his studies on this Top old skool Metal detector ! with a short video " How to get the best out of you Coin$trike....... We then should all have a whip round and buy him a detector of his choice for Xmas ! What do you think, Got to be a C$ eh! Mike.
HH. Clinton.
BarnacleBill
New member
"but just hate getting somewhere and not understanding how to know when settings are "decent" for that site."
Actually there is a way to figure that out with any motion based VLF detector. And just takes a little work when you arrive on the site to detect. Every site can be different!
There are several factors that you have to control for that allow for maximum depth along with stability.
1. External interference(power line noise, data lines, your cell phone etc.)
2. Internal noise in the circuits of the detector.
3. Minerals in the ground.
4. Trash density, but that is a secondary factor after the first three have been controlled for.
Start with the factory default settings.
A. Plug in your headphones and make sure they are adjusted to a comfortable level.
B. Put the detector in All Metal mode.
C. Now hold the detector out away from your body with the coil parallel to the ground waist high. Listen, do you hear anything or have a flashing ID screen? If yes you have some electrical interference and will have to lower the sensitivity. And that will most likely be the highest sensitivity available for that site.
D.Ground balance the detector, and make sure you've done it properly over clean ground.
E. Put the detector in All Metal and pump the coil straight up and down over the spot you just Ground Balanced over from one inch above the ground to 8 inches. You are checking to see if despite having a proper ground balance, your sensitivity is too high for the amount of mineral content. If you don't hear or see any visual ID reaction, increase the sensitivity up one point and pump the coil to check again. Therefore increase or decrease the sensitivity till it is stable. That should vary from site to site depending on the mineralization.
Summary so far, you adjust the sensitivity to a point that's stable depending on interference and ground minerals.
Threshold, well let's face it, Fisher manuals have never really been expansive tomes on how to use your detector. So I'm going to point you to a Minelab X-Terra 70 Manual.
http://www.metaldetectormanuals.com/d-xterra70.htm
Pages 36 & 37 have a graphic showing how a threshold effects the detector.
[attachment 105495 Thresh.gif]
Though the adjustment range numbers are not the same, both have 0(zero) as the beginning point where you can begin to hear the threshold as you increase it in the +(positive) direction.
One way to look at the Sensitivity & Threshold controls.
--Sensitivity controls how weak the signals are that the detector hears.
--Threshold controls how weak the signals are that the detector lets you hear.
So you have a conversation with the detector, "I want the maximum depth for deep coins, but don't want to have to listen to tiny bits of foil at the surface, AND I am willing to give up a little depth to get rid of the foil". The solution is too turn down the threshold to the point the where the tiny surface foil is no longer heard.
There is a mention in the C$ manual that if you use auto ground tracking to set the threshold slightly negative so that ground minerals don't cause noise. Beyond that there are probably some sensitivity & threshold adjustments to be made to deal with various types of trash. But these are going to be VERY site specific and is simply part of learning the detector.
HH
BarnacleBill
Actually there is a way to figure that out with any motion based VLF detector. And just takes a little work when you arrive on the site to detect. Every site can be different!
There are several factors that you have to control for that allow for maximum depth along with stability.
1. External interference(power line noise, data lines, your cell phone etc.)
2. Internal noise in the circuits of the detector.
3. Minerals in the ground.
4. Trash density, but that is a secondary factor after the first three have been controlled for.
Start with the factory default settings.
A. Plug in your headphones and make sure they are adjusted to a comfortable level.
B. Put the detector in All Metal mode.
C. Now hold the detector out away from your body with the coil parallel to the ground waist high. Listen, do you hear anything or have a flashing ID screen? If yes you have some electrical interference and will have to lower the sensitivity. And that will most likely be the highest sensitivity available for that site.
D.Ground balance the detector, and make sure you've done it properly over clean ground.
E. Put the detector in All Metal and pump the coil straight up and down over the spot you just Ground Balanced over from one inch above the ground to 8 inches. You are checking to see if despite having a proper ground balance, your sensitivity is too high for the amount of mineral content. If you don't hear or see any visual ID reaction, increase the sensitivity up one point and pump the coil to check again. Therefore increase or decrease the sensitivity till it is stable. That should vary from site to site depending on the mineralization.
Summary so far, you adjust the sensitivity to a point that's stable depending on interference and ground minerals.
Threshold, well let's face it, Fisher manuals have never really been expansive tomes on how to use your detector. So I'm going to point you to a Minelab X-Terra 70 Manual.
http://www.metaldetectormanuals.com/d-xterra70.htm
Pages 36 & 37 have a graphic showing how a threshold effects the detector.
[attachment 105495 Thresh.gif]
Though the adjustment range numbers are not the same, both have 0(zero) as the beginning point where you can begin to hear the threshold as you increase it in the +(positive) direction.
One way to look at the Sensitivity & Threshold controls.
--Sensitivity controls how weak the signals are that the detector hears.
--Threshold controls how weak the signals are that the detector lets you hear.
So you have a conversation with the detector, "I want the maximum depth for deep coins, but don't want to have to listen to tiny bits of foil at the surface, AND I am willing to give up a little depth to get rid of the foil". The solution is too turn down the threshold to the point the where the tiny surface foil is no longer heard.
There is a mention in the C$ manual that if you use auto ground tracking to set the threshold slightly negative so that ground minerals don't cause noise. Beyond that there are probably some sensitivity & threshold adjustments to be made to deal with various types of trash. But these are going to be VERY site specific and is simply part of learning the detector.
HH
BarnacleBill
Jackpine Savage
Active member
About setting the threshold negative for ground minerals. They must be talkin about volcanics or something because no one and I mean no one has ever had that issue that I'm aware of. On the beaches here with sens maxed and threshold at +2 or +3 (I forget which) indeed you can then hear the ground talking but that the only time I ever seen it happen. BTW thats over sand not cobbles.
And BTW I disagree on setting up the detector so its quiet in the air. As long as its running smooth during normal sweeps thats what I look for. It is kind of a pain to have the detector sounding off in your ears when you lay it down to dig due to the different coil position picking up interference but hey thats life!
Tom
And BTW I disagree on setting up the detector so its quiet in the air. As long as its running smooth during normal sweeps thats what I look for. It is kind of a pain to have the detector sounding off in your ears when you lay it down to dig due to the different coil position picking up interference but hey thats life!
Tom
Jackpine Savage
Active member
n/t
Jackpine Savage
Active member
its all what you are used to.
Tom
Tom
Jackpine Savage
Active member
that used the Coinstrike in the orange Brandy dirt and he could run sens 10 and threshold 0!! The ID was way off of course but it could tell ferrous from non-ferrous very reliably.
BarnacleBill
New member
n/t