Jigflipper
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Howdy, A little help needed if anyone has tried this. My rechargable battery for the dfx has died and won't hold a charge. Has anyone ever changed the
- Thread starter Jigflipper
- Start date
Can be done fairly easy, however why not just order a spare battery case for the dfx, put some Rechargeable Ni-MH AA battery's @ 2500+ mah in it.
The first thing you would need to do is figure how to open the battery pack, then draw your self a digram of how the pack is made up.
Then go to a good hobby shop and buy some silver solder, battery strips and the highest mah AA batteries they have. Follow your diagram you made up and you should be able to fix it up.
The best thing is just buy a spare battery case from White and get your own rechargeable for it. The draw back is you have to have your own charger.
HH
GaryL ....
The first thing you would need to do is figure how to open the battery pack, then draw your self a digram of how the pack is made up.
Then go to a good hobby shop and buy some silver solder, battery strips and the highest mah AA batteries they have. Follow your diagram you made up and you should be able to fix it up.
The best thing is just buy a spare battery case from White and get your own rechargeable for it. The draw back is you have to have your own charger.
HH
GaryL ....
Jigflipper
New member
n/t
The packs for the DFX and MXT are the same. The rechargeable pack uses NICADS and is the same size as the alkaline packs. I have an MXT and use the alkaline pack like RIch and use 2500mah NIMH batteries. One pack has 8 batteries and charges to 11.1V or 11.2V. One of my Alkaline packs has been modded to use 9 NIMH batteries, it charges to 12.4V so it has the same starting voltage as 8 alkalines. The detector works the same with the 8 or 9 cell pack, the 9 cell pack just lasts longer. I've had the same set of NIMH's in my pack 2 years in December and they are still going strong. Alakaline cases are $9.90. Rob
Its only one cell that causes the problem so I would open up the pack locate it and swap it out. I would grind off the plastic lug inside the box as it does distort everything as you slide the case back together and can spring the solder.
My XLT has NiMH's (1800's) in it as I had a senior moment forgetting that the Whites charger is a Ni Cad one. Tried charging with the pack in a tin box at first in case of any problems but its ended up as my best battery pack for performance and long life.
My XLT has NiMH's (1800's) in it as I had a senior moment forgetting that the Whites charger is a Ni Cad one. Tried charging with the pack in a tin box at first in case of any problems but its ended up as my best battery pack for performance and long life.
jigflipper know what ya mean fer sure.. What I would suggest is buy the spare Whites pack (the one you put your own battery's in) switch from Ni-cads which is standard with most detectors that have a rechargeable pack to Ni-MH batteries as they will not take a memory set and can be recharged at any time.
A Ni-Cad set can and will take a memory set and not take a full charge if you do not drain them all most dead.
All the Manufactures need to switch too Ni-MH batteries as they last longer and do not take a memory set, meaning you can recharge them after a two hour hunt and do no harm.
Draw back is if you switch, you must buy a new charger or should as it takes a little more to charge the Ni-MH battery's, however would pay for them selfs over the long run.
HH
GaryL ....
A Ni-Cad set can and will take a memory set and not take a full charge if you do not drain them all most dead.
All the Manufactures need to switch too Ni-MH batteries as they last longer and do not take a memory set, meaning you can recharge them after a two hour hunt and do no harm.
Draw back is if you switch, you must buy a new charger or should as it takes a little more to charge the Ni-MH battery's, however would pay for them selfs over the long run.
HH
GaryL ....