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How to remove FE numbers?
- Thread starter Kieth-Tx
- Start date
foreign object
New member
I think not.
About the best you can do I ignore the Fe numbers.By doing so you will omit what I think is a 1/3 of your information. Some may say 50% or more.
About the best you can do I ignore the Fe numbers.By doing so you will omit what I think is a 1/3 of your information. Some may say 50% or more.
Because I have hunted for a long time without knowing the FE (iron content) of something. If I am relic hunting then I can possibly see where that info MIGHT come in handy....but underwater beach hunting...it is data that I do not need hence the simple question. Does anyone know how to remove the FE numbers?
>but underwater beach hunting..it is data that I do not need
There is still a heck of a lot of difference between a 35-13 signal versus a 12-13 signal.
If you can't simply ignore the number then put some tape over it. Otherwise there is not an option for not having it to show up.
There is still a heck of a lot of difference between a 35-13 signal versus a 12-13 signal.
If you can't simply ignore the number then put some tape over it. Otherwise there is not an option for not having it to show up.
teleman2525
New member
but could the 35 13 number be a nickel or even a gold ring hiding in trash
Guys...this is just how I hunt. I am new to the 3030 so I am in the learning curve. I simply asked a question and I really wasn't asking a smart a$$ question and wasn't expecting a smart a$$ answer.
So instead of giving me a hardball answer when I am still in the kiddy ball park....what is the difference between a 35-13 and a 12-13?
So instead of giving me a hardball answer when I am still in the kiddy ball park....what is the difference between a 35-13 and a 12-13?
the conductive (non-ferrous) number represents the conductive (non-ferrous) properties of your target. Conductivity refers to how well a target allows electrical current to flow through it. A highly conductive target has low electrical resistance and therefore allows current to flow more easily. A target with low conductivity has high electrical resistance and does not allow current to flow easily. Most detectors only analyze a target for it's resistance to current flow. The lower the resistance, or the higher the conductivity, the higher the conductive number will be. Silver is slightly more conductive than copper. So silver coins will register with a higher conductivity number than a similarly sized copper coin. But size is also a factor when electrical current flows. The larger the target, the less resistance to those electrons. So a silver dollar will offer less resistance to current to flow than a dime. Therefore, a silver dollar will provide a larger conductivity number than a dime. In comparing the conductivity numbers of the CTX with a detector that only has one number, let's look at the X-TERRA. If you passed an X-TERRA coil over a dime, it would likely show a 42. On the CTX, the conductive number of that dime would likely be a 42 as well. But the CTX (along with the Explorer and ETRAC) offers two-dimensional discrimination, allowing the discrimination of targets by their ferrous properties and conductive properties simultaneously. Ferrous targets contain iron, and are attracted by a magnet. The more ferrous a target is, the higher the ferrous number will be. US coins and most jewelry do not contain iron. So if you are detecting for coins or jewelry, knowing the ferrous number will save you from digging a lot of iron. The CTX engineers developed the software so that most coins and jewelry will register a ferrous number of 12. The problem is, if you dug every target with a ferrous number of 12, you would also dig modern trash that doesn't contain iron......such as aluminum trash. So if you are using the numbers on the Smart-Screen to help you reduce the number of "trash" targets that you dig, you will benefit by observing both the ferrous and the conductive numbers. For example, a rusty piece of iron can provide a ferrous number of 33 and a conductive number of 42. A silver dime will provide a ferrous number of 12 and a conductive number of 42. So if you were only going by the conductive number of 42, you could dig a lot of iron, thinking it was going to be a dime.
There is no magic formula to guarantee that any given target will read the same numbers, every time. Depth, soil matrix, sweep speed, the angle it is buried, adjacent targets and improper adjustments to your detector can all contribute to inconsistent numbers. But if you learn that higher ferrous numbers represent targets with a higher iron content, and lower ferrous numbers represent a target with lower iron content.....and combine that knowledge with lower conductive targets providing smaller conductive numbers than higher conductive targets, you will come up with some combinations that will greatly help you in the field. On the CTX, by being able to assign separate tones for each of the ferrous numbers or each of the conductive numbers, or a combination of both (Combined audio), you will soon find that your ears can save a lot of watching the display.
There are some TID charts over on the CTX Resource Center. You will be able to see what some of the more "common" numbers are for various targets. But the best way to learn how various targets are identified, both visually and audibly, take some coins, jewelry, relics, nails, etc. out to your backyard, lay them out on a blanket and scan the coil over each of them. Take notes of where they read in ferrous and conductive. Set up a discrimination Pattern to reject the most common trash you dig in some of those sites. Set up your tones so you can hear the differences between what you typically hunt for, and the trash you typically dig. Try various settings until you find those that best fit your style of hunting. In a nutshell.....practice, practice, practice.......
Hope this helps. HH Randy
There is no magic formula to guarantee that any given target will read the same numbers, every time. Depth, soil matrix, sweep speed, the angle it is buried, adjacent targets and improper adjustments to your detector can all contribute to inconsistent numbers. But if you learn that higher ferrous numbers represent targets with a higher iron content, and lower ferrous numbers represent a target with lower iron content.....and combine that knowledge with lower conductive targets providing smaller conductive numbers than higher conductive targets, you will come up with some combinations that will greatly help you in the field. On the CTX, by being able to assign separate tones for each of the ferrous numbers or each of the conductive numbers, or a combination of both (Combined audio), you will soon find that your ears can save a lot of watching the display.
There are some TID charts over on the CTX Resource Center. You will be able to see what some of the more "common" numbers are for various targets. But the best way to learn how various targets are identified, both visually and audibly, take some coins, jewelry, relics, nails, etc. out to your backyard, lay them out on a blanket and scan the coil over each of them. Take notes of where they read in ferrous and conductive. Set up a discrimination Pattern to reject the most common trash you dig in some of those sites. Set up your tones so you can hear the differences between what you typically hunt for, and the trash you typically dig. Try various settings until you find those that best fit your style of hunting. In a nutshell.....practice, practice, practice.......
Hope this helps. HH Randy
The information and explanation you just gave was perfect. I loved useing my Xterras and the CO numbers were, for the most part, spot-on. Now, understanding the correlation between the FE to CO, I can see where and why someone would be perturbed as to why I would want to remove the FE numbers. Again, thank you for your time and expertise on this.
Kieth-Tx
Kieth-Tx
Although explained in the book that comes with the machine, the way it is explained there makes it darn near impossible to understand
However, Like Keith in Texas, I use the machine almost exclusively for salt water also, and honestly find the information on the screen to be almost useless....usually at the beach it is quite sunny and the screen cannot even be read....
I got the machine a few weeks ago...after the beach season.....no one is finding anything with other machines and I have been able to find some very deep targets.....now when I am actually in the surf with waves breaking around me and I get a target that I can read the screen, and it is greater than 8 inches, I usually lose the target...I can't tell if I have gotten it out and lost it (not in the scoop), or what I think is more likely, it just sinks below the signal depth...anyone else in the surf experiencing this? if so what do you think is happening?
However, Like Keith in Texas, I use the machine almost exclusively for salt water also, and honestly find the information on the screen to be almost useless....usually at the beach it is quite sunny and the screen cannot even be read....
I got the machine a few weeks ago...after the beach season.....no one is finding anything with other machines and I have been able to find some very deep targets.....now when I am actually in the surf with waves breaking around me and I get a target that I can read the screen, and it is greater than 8 inches, I usually lose the target...I can't tell if I have gotten it out and lost it (not in the scoop), or what I think is more likely, it just sinks below the signal depth...anyone else in the surf experiencing this? if so what do you think is happening?
Mark, my CZ-20 and 21 both do the same thing. I do not know why there is no signal but when this happens...and it isnt in my sifter...I ALWAYS dig at least one more scoop and like magic....there is the target! This has happened so many times it is automatic to do this now. There IS one more thing it could be though....I have seen a small pistol ball and a ear stud fall out of the scoop holes also.
Johnnyanglo
Active member
Keep in mind when you read the CTX depth meter saying 8", that this is for a coin. If a bobby pin is providing a weaker signal than a coin, it will appear as if it were deeper. The 8" deep target could be a 3" deep junk target with poor conductivity. It may also be a very small piece of shredded metal (that gives a nice clean tone) - which will keep falling out of the scoop and settling back to the ocean floor (assuming no currents to carry it away). It can be frustrating.
Quite often when you dig into the centered target area the target is either lifted by the scoop and falls out on the way up to the surface, or is dislodged and shifts with the current on the floor. The flow near the surface may be parallel to the shore but the current near the floor may be heading out to the ocean. If you are already chest-deep the target is now too far out to retrieve. It is also possible for the coin to now being laying on its side - losing its signal strength (a vertical coin will not intersect with vertical magnetic field lines - so few eddies form).
Johnnyanglo
Quite often when you dig into the centered target area the target is either lifted by the scoop and falls out on the way up to the surface, or is dislodged and shifts with the current on the floor. The flow near the surface may be parallel to the shore but the current near the floor may be heading out to the ocean. If you are already chest-deep the target is now too far out to retrieve. It is also possible for the coin to now being laying on its side - losing its signal strength (a vertical coin will not intersect with vertical magnetic field lines - so few eddies form).
Johnnyanglo