Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

how deep will the at pro go?:csflag:

Well, I've heard that sometimes the molten iron core of the Earth causes some chatter, as does rush hour in Beijing, so you have to lower the Sens just a little!:rofl:
No, really, the some of the other features of the AT Pro are enough reason to give it a go...just read the posts here for a while Jensman, you will probably convince yourself! Funny thing is, I dont have one,:cry: but they've convinced me!
Mud
 
The AT-Pro and the At-Gold are not 1500$ detectors, but that said. They do the job, in the rain, mud, and down to 10ft in the water. Some beaches are ok, some are not. I'm happy with mine, just waiting on the 5x8 coil I ordered to arrive.

I've pulled a silver quarter from 8" deep. That's the deepest coin I've found, though I have dug deeper to get larger junk items. The soil here has alot of rocks, coins can only get so deep.
 
First of all, it's very difficult to answer that question, if not impossible. The answer really is "it depends"

The following all play a significant roll, and in combination will always give varying results:

-size of a target-> the larger the target, the deeper a target can be recognized.
-conductivity-> aluminum vs. copper vs. gold. vs. iron vs. silver. Some rings, with size & mass being equal can be detected deeper then others.
-size of coil-> general rule says "larger coil = deeper depth however, add a lot of conductive particles, metal junk and high mineralization to the matrix, and the large coil becomes redundant.
-type of coil-> DD vs.concentric vs. mono. Each coil has a definite advantage over the other under different conditions
-frequency of signal from coil-> higher frequency usually (but not always) is more sensitive to tinier objects.
-VLF vs. Pulse Induction-> Pulse induction can easily pick up a dropped mini or gold ring with a medium sized coil 15-20" whereas a VLF might get about half that all other things being equal.
-Humidity, moisture in soil, orientation of target to the coil
--ability of the to perceive the receiving frequency from a coil and distinguish it's conductivity, depth, size etc.
-operator - properly setting up the electonic components based on knowledge and experiences

There are many more variables in involved affecting depth.....the above are just some of the more obvious ones. So really, YOU need to figure out what you are looking for ie. relics vs. jewelery vs. common coins vs. deep copper/silver coins. You also need to know the soil conditions and other factors in YOUR area where you are going to hunt. Lots of electronic interference from above ground or below will make some of the most expensive machines useless, unless you turn the sensitivity way down, which often times reduces your depth considerably. Same goes with extremely high mineralization like in Australia or red clay oxidized clays in North America areas. VLF may really struggle under these conditions, yet a PI (pulse induction) will punch down deep with no trouble.

So.....how deep is the Pro? It is as deep in some instances and deeper in other instances and perhaps not as good as machines costing sometimes more then twice the cost of the . Throw on the 9 x 12 concentric coil in good ground and you have a very deep detector with great ID capabilities. Use the DD 8.5" x 12" coil in heavier mineralized soil, and it outperforms even the larger coil I just mentioned. Put on the 5" x 8" coil and you can easily pick out the good targets beside and often time underneath junk targets, while still getting great depth.

You want a machine for caches buried in feet, not inches - Garrett has it - http://www.garrett.com/hobbysite/1611800_treasurehound_eagleeye_searchcoil.aspx

You want extreme depth for water or land, check out the Garrett Infinium - http://www.garrett.com/hobbysite/hbby_infinium_video.aspx or Infinium Website http://www.findmall.com/list.php?62

You want a great all around machine for good depth + Salt or freshwater hunting (waterproof) Check out the AT Gold or : Gold: http://www.findmall.com/read.php?79,1615363,1615363#msg-1615363

You want to hunt common coins with sizing ability, check out the GTI Series- http://www.garrett.com/hobbysite/hbby_gti_1500_video.aspx

Why should depth not be the most important factor for purchasing a metal detector? Because depth is only relative to certain conditions. Most targets are in the top 6 inches anyway, so why do you need to go down to 15-20"? In places like salt water or areas with a lot of deep junk rusty targets, the large coil on your $1,500.00 machine is practically useless, and when set up to it's maximum potential in these areas, will only give you say 4-5 inches. If somebody is trying to sell you an expensive detector, that they say is the deepest machine, you had better turn around and run fast....as that equates with someone trying to sell you a a parcel of land in a swamp. There is no 'DEEPEST" machine....it simply doesn't exist. But there are BEST configurations of a metal detector type for any given matrix of soil.

As this is a Garrett forum, and I don't promote detector comparisons here, I will speak specifically on Garrett Detectors. They are one of the oldest and ORIGINAL designers, manufacturers of metal detectors in USA. They also have one of if not THE best customer service backups. Talk with the Garrett folks about a problem, and you are probably speaking with someone who also spends some of their spare time metal detecting. In fact, Garrett encourages their staff to sign out machines and use them ad lib on their days off. Garrett is up on the latest technology. They are constantly doing R & D to keep up with the newest and latest technologies. You won't find any cheap toggle switches and cheap knobs on the latest detectors. Toggles can easily break off, and knobs for tuning or volume wear out or change setting with the slightest accidental touch. Knobs are old technology and belong on static devices such as old TVs, radios etc. Garrett builds a variety of detectors. Want extreme depth? They have it....want a good all around machine with good depth and all around performance and water proof costing half of what other competitors have, Garrett has it. Want a low cost entry machine, with bells & whistles costing much less then the competitors...Garret has it. Do you need further support on detecting with any Garretts, they have it.....Garrett has many "HOW TO" videos on line for each model they sell.. Need some reading material? Garrett has the largest supply of home grown (written) books. Below is a list of all the detectors manufactured by Garrett.

1964
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
1965
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
1966
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
1967
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
1968
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
1969
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
1970
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
1971
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
The Hombre (BFO) 1971
1972
BFOs (zero drift)
The Hunter
The Provider
The Hustler
The Achiever
The Sidewinder
The Playmate
The Finder
The Seeker
The Shark (underwater detector)
*BFO models: Controls on side, no push button or toggle switch at the end of handle:
*Master Hunter BFO
*Coin Hunter BFO
*Cache Hunter BFO
*Treasure Hunter BFO
*Nugget Hunter BFO
*Mini Hunter Ghostowner BFO
*Garrett Mini-Hunter BFO
1973
*BFO models: Controls on side, no push button or toggle switch at the end of handle:
*Master Hunter BFO
*Coin Hunter BFO
*Cache Hunter BFO
*Treasure Hunter BFO
*Nugget Hunter BFO
Master Hunter TR (controls on side, made with push button)
Money Hunter TR
Mini-Hunter TR
Super Mini-Hunter TR
Super Mini-Hunter BFO
1974
*BFO models: Controls on side, no push button or toggle switch at the end of handle:
*Master Hunter BFO
*Coin Hunter BFO
*Cache Hunter BFO
*Treasure Hunter BFO
*Nugget Hunter BFO
Master Hunter TR (controls on side, made with push button)
Money Hunter TR
Super Mini-Hunter TR
Super Mini-Hunter BFO
Mini-Hunter Ghostowner TR
1975
*BFO models: Controls on side, no push button or toggle switch at the end of handle:
*Master Hunter BFO
*Coin Hunter BFO
*Cache Hunter BFO
*Treasure Hunter BFO
Master Hunter TR (controls on side, made with push button)
Money Hunter TR
Relic Hunter BFO (no push button or toggle switch)
Money Hunter BFO (no push button or toggle switch)
Coin Hunter TR (TR discriminator on side with push button)
Cache Hunter TR (TR discriminator on side w/push button)
Relic Hunter TR (TR discriminator on side w/push button)
Ghostown Hunter TR (no push button)
1976
*BFO models: Controls on side, no push button or toggle switch at the end of handle:
*Master Hunter BFO
The Coin Hunter VLF/TR (controls on side, push button)
1977
*BFO models: Controls on side, no push button or toggle switch at the end of handle:
*Master Hunter BFO
*Coin Hunter BFO
Money Hunter TR: (w/push button)
Money Hunter BFO (no push button or toggle switch)
Coin Hunter TR (TR discriminator on side with push button)
The Coin Hunter VLF/TR (controls on side, push button)
The Coin Hunter VLF/TR featherweight series (controls on top, push button, groundhog on coil)
Master Hunter VLF/TR (controls on side, push button, deepseeker on coil)
Master Hunter VLF/TR featherweight series (controls on top, push button, groundhog on coil)
Fortune Hunter TR (controls on side, push button)
1978
*BFO models: Controls on side, no push button or toggle switch at the end of handle:
*Master Hunter BFO
The Coin Hunter VLF/TR (controls on side, push button)
The Coin Hunter VLF/TR featherweight series (controls on top, push button, groundhog on coil)
Master Hunter VLF/TR (controls on side, push button, deepseeker on coil)
Master Hunter VLF/TR featherweight series (controls on top, push button, groundhog on coil)
Fortune Hunter TR (controls on top, push button)
Money Hunter VLF/TR (controls on top, push button, groundhog on coil)
1979
Master Hunter ADS (VLF/TR deepseeker control on side, toggle switch)
Coin Hunter ADS (VLF/TR deepseeker-contols on side, toggle switch)
Marksman P.B. (VLF/TR deepseeker-controls on side, push button)
Master Hunter ADS (VLF/TR Groundhog controls on top, toggle switch)
Coin Hunter ADS (VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, toggle switch)
Fortune Hunter P.B.(VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, push button)
Money Hunter P.B. (VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, push button)
International TR S2 (controls on top, push button)
Treasure Hunter BFO (controls on side, no push button)
1980
Master Hunter ADS (VLF/TR deepseeker control on side, toggle switch)
Coin Hunter ADS (VLF/TR deepseeker-contols on side, toggle switch)
Marksman P.B. (VLF/TR deepseeker-controls on side, push button)
Master Hunter ADS (VLF/TR Groundhog controls on top, toggle switch)
Coin Hunter ADS (VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, toggle switch)
Fortune Hunter P.B.(VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, push button)
Money Hunter P.B. (VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, push button)
International TR S2 (controls on top, push button)
Master Hunter BFO (controls on side, no push button)
Garrett BFO (controls on side, no push button)
1981
Master Hunter ADS (VLF/TR deepseeker control on side, toggle switch)
Marksman P.B. (VLF/TR deepseeker-controls on side, push button)
Master Hunter ADS (VLF/TR Groundhog controls on top, toggle switch)
Fortune Hunter P.B.(VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, push button)
Money Hunter P.B. (VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, push button)
American TR S2 (controls on top, push button)
Sea Hunter
1982
Master Hunter BFO (controls on side, no push button)
Sea Hunter
Master Hunter ADS III (VLF/TR Deepseeker-controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS II (VLF/TR Deepseeker-controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS I (VLF/TR Deepseeker-controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS I (VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, toggle switch)
Gold Hunter A2B (groundhog on coil, controls on top, toggle switch)
American S4 ADS (groundhog on coil, controls on top, toggle switch)
American S3 (VLF/TR, groundhog on coil, controls on top, push button)
American TR S1 (deep scan on coil, controls on top, push button)
Pocket Scanner
1983
Sea Hunter
Master Hunter ADS III (VLF/TR Deepseeker-controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS II (VLF/TR Deepseeker-controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS I (VLF/TR Deepseeker-controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS I (VLF/TR Groundhog-controls on top, toggle switch)
American S4 ADS (groundhog on coil, controls on top, toggle switch)
American S3 (VLF/TR, groundhog on coil, controls on top, push button)
American TR S1 (deep scan on coil, controls on top, push button)
Pocket Scanner
1984
Sea Hunter
Master Hunter ADS 7 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS 6 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS 5 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS 4 (controls on side, toggle switch)
American AM-2 (controls on top, toggle switch)
American AM-1 (controls on top, push button)
Freedom 1 Coin Commander
Freedom 2 Coin Commander
1985
Sea Hunter
Master Hunter ADS 7 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS 6 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS 5 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS 4 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Freedom 1 Coin Commander
Freedom 2 Coin Commander
Freedom Ace Coin Commander
Gold Hunter (controls on top, toggle switch)
1986
Master Hunter ADS 7 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS 5 (controls on side, toggle switch)
American AM-2 (controls on top, toggle switch)
Freedom 1 Coin Commander
Freedom 2 Coin Commander
Freedom Ace Coin Commander
Gold Hunter (controls on top, toggle switch)
Beach Hunter AT3
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Sea Hunter XL 200 Pulse
1988
Master Hunter ADS 5 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Grand Master Hunter
Freedom 3 CDC
Freedom 1 CDC
Beach Hunter AT4
Gold Hunter A3B
1989
Master Hunter ADS 7 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Master Hunter ADS 5 (controls on side, toggle switch)
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Freedom 3 CDC
Beach Hunter AT4
Gold Hunter A3B
Grand Master Hunter II
Freedom 3
Freedom 1
1990
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Beach Hunter AT4
Grand Master Hunter CX II
Master Hunter CX
Master Hunter 7X
Freedom 3 Plus
Freedom 2 Plus
Freedom Ace Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
1991
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Beach Hunter AT4
Grand Master Hunter CX II
Master Hunter CX
Master Hunter 7X
Freedom 2 Plus
Freedom Ace Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Ultra GTA 1000
Ultra GTA 500
Pocket Probe
1992
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Grand Master Hunter CX II
Master Hunter CX
Freedom 2 Plus
Freedom Ace Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Ultra GTA 1000
Ultra GTA 500
Master Hunter CX III
1993
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Grand Master Hunter CX II
Master Hunter CX
Freedom 2 Plus
Freedom Ace Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Ultra GTA 1000
Ultra GTA 500
Master Hunter CX III
1994
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Grand Master Hunter CX II
Master Hunter CX
Ultra GTA 350
Freedom Ace Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Ultra GTA 1000
Ultra GTA 500
Master Hunter CX III
1995
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Grand Master Hunter CX II
Master Hunter CX
Ultra GTA 350
Freedom Ace Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Ultra GTA 1000
Ultra GTA 500
Master Hunter CX III
1996
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Grand Master Hunter CX II
Master Hunter CX
Freedom 2 Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Master Hunter CX III
GTAX 1000
GTAX 500
GTAX 400
1997
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Grand Master Hunter CX II
Master Hunter CX
Freedom 2 Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Master Hunter CX III
GTAX 1000
GTAX 500
GTAX 400
GTI 2000
Treasure Ace 100
Treasure Ace 200
Treasure Ace 300
1998
Sea Hunter XL 500 Pulse
Master Hunter CX
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Master Hunter CX III
GTAX 1000
GTAX 500
GTAX 400
GTI 2000
Treasure Ace 100
Treasure Ace 200
Treasure Ace 300
GTI 1500
Pocket Probe
1999
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Master Hunter CX
Master Hunter CX III
GTAX 400
Treasure Ace 100
Treasure Ace 200
Treasure Ace 300
GTI 1500
Pocket Probe
GTI 2500
GTAX 550
GTAX 1250
GTAX 750
Sea Hunter Mark II
2000
Master Hunter CX Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
Master Hunter CX III
GTAX 400
Treasure Ace 100
Treasure Ace 200
Treasure Ace 300
GTI 1500
Pocket Probe
GTI 2500
GTAX 550
GTAX 1250
GTAX 750
Sea Hunter Mark II
2001
Master Hunter CX Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
GTAX 400
Treasure Ace 100
Treasure Ace 200
Treasure Ace 300
GTI 1500
GTI 2500
GTAX 550
GTAX 1250
GTAX 750
Sea Hunter Mark II
2002
Master Hunter CX Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
GTAX 400
Treasure Ace 100
Treasure Ace 300
GTI 1500
GTI 2500
GTAX 550
GTAX 1250
GTAX 750
Sea Hunter Mark II
2003
Master Hunter CX Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
GTAX 400
Treasure Ace 100
Treasure Ace 200
Treasure Ace 300
GTI 1500
GTI 2500
GTAX 550
GTAX 1250
GTAX 750
Sea Hunter Mark II
2004
Master Hunter CX Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
GTAX 400
Treasure Ace 100
Treasure Ace 300
GTI 1500
GTI 2500
GTAX 550
GTAX 1250
Sea Hunter Mark II
Infinium LS
GTP 1350
2005
Master Hunter CX Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
GTI 1500
GTI 2500
GTAX 550
Sea Hunter Mark II
Infinium LS
GTP 1350
Ace 150
Ace 250
2006
Master Hunter CX Plus
Scorpion Gold Stinger
GTI 1500
GTI 2500
GTAX 550
Sea Hunter Mark II
Infinium LS
GTP 1350
Ace 150
Ace 250
ACE 350
AT Pro
AT Gold
 
Wow, that's a lot. I can say that in my soil the AT-Pro stacks up very well against my other machine. Each do certain jobs better for me in my conditions which is why I have no plans to part with either of them!

No one machine does everything everywhere the best is one thing I've learned. However the AT-Pro does a whole lot of things pretty darn well, especially when you consider the price point. It also gets backed up by excellent warranty service if you need it and that counts for something as well because all things electronic may have an issue at some point.

I also have found coins down to 9 to 10 inches. Lead to 11 and largish relics at 14 plus. That's a whole lot of performance for a machine in it's price range. With the 5x8 I've found it a very good trash hunting machine.

Is it as good at some of this as my other? Maybe not but the difference is smaller then you might think and my high end machine is severely allergic to water!

I love my AT-Pro!
 
Very well written John..
Lots of great info--
Thanks for the post..
 
John is correct - it really does depend...BUT hopefully this will help.

I have been relic hunting for more than half my life. For the past 15 years I used the SAME machine, as I was unable to switch due to the success I was having. It is a raw depth relic machine that I have grown to love. This past summer, I have the AT Pro a look for water relic hunting. I immediately fell in love with it and the AT Gold. This fall I discovered a colonial site that was iron infested. The ONE fault my old machine had was it was light-years behind in discrim mode - so I gave the Pro a look. I was amazed with what the Pro & Gold sniffed out. I began using it more and learning the capabilities and each time was impressed. I learned how to use the Pro and maximize the depth at impressive levels. Is it as deep as my old machine, NO, but not many modern machines are. However, are items more noticeable at deeper levels, YES. My old machine runs primairly on threshold after 8", which can be frustrating, but that threshold works to 14, 15, 16" on items. The AT Pro with the sensativity maxed out, will typically find the relics I enjoy finding at the 12" mark, I beleive it might be a tad lower than other big market machines, BUT the discrim is by far more sensative. I have continued to second guess the machine, and I am countinuously proven wrong. I am loving the machines, and for the first time in 15 years. (BTW I have tried newer machines, this one just simply hooked me with the simplistic approach and use, but great results)

Dan
 
I think you also have to determine how deep you want to go. I dug a junk bracelet on a ball field that was a measured 12" down. (The ground was so wet it was almost muddy). The pile of dirt on my drop cloth was so large that I was afraid that someone would happen by and accuse me of causing damage to the field. I decided then that 8" is plenty deep for me. LOL
 
I had a lot of those Garrets since 1972.Started with BFO lot of fond memory's.Then Whites came out with 6DB motion detector early 80's and completely took over industry,Then Fisher with there X series,Then Minelab with FBS.AT Pro is not there yet but for the price it is solid detector reminds me a lot of the Big Bud when it came out pleasure to use and would make a great backup,rough use detector,still waiting to get all factory defects out.I will say to answer your question it is 80% as deep as anything on the market on coins at 1/4 the price and 90% as far as gold detection.I recommended it several times to new users on a budget.
 
Excellent post and a lot of great points, John. But I've just got to ask...

John-Edmonton said:
Most targets are in the top 6 inches anyway, so why do you need to go down to 15-20"?

How do you know most targets are in the top 6 inches? Most targets are found in the top 6 inches, but I'd argue that's because of detector limitations.

Personally speaking, excellent depth is just one of many reasons I feel so positively about my AT Pro.
 
Good point on detector limitation, but I used a Sovereign for over 5 years and I only dug 2 Indian Head's at 11". Though you are right. There are some areas where you only dig deep targets. The ground might have been turned over or filled in. We always want deeper seeking detectors. A new technology would be nice that could replace VLF like the VLF replaced the older technologies.

My AT Pro would hit my test dime at 7 1/2" with the coil raised an 1"+ and quarter at 8" with the coil raised 1-2"+ only when the ground was damp. When it was dry I couldn't hear them.

Rick N. MI
 
What occurs when your depth bottoms out and you don't find anything but when you run back over the hole it shows another 8" deep ? Some numbers I've come up with 53 most likely pull tab,45 foil,76-80 aluminium can.
 
Pulse Induction for raw depth.I have yet to own a deeper detector on gold rings than my garrett Infinium.If your after larger gold at a depth I suggest a pulse Induction.If you have a local field with little iron junk a pulse induction gets awesome depth.I have used mine with limited sucess in local fields.I have yet to own a deeper detector.But then it lacks sensativity on small gold unlike minelabs but unlike minelabs its only $1000. Its a treat to use,very simple.Be prepared to do alot of digging and own a earth magnet.

Vlf machines are much better at ID of targets.The Infinium has a tone sytem that works when learned.The at pro would be better choice for less diggin-lighter weight-Disc out most if not all iron junk.

The Infinium would be better for hard to detect soil-hot rocks-salt water-Real deep targets.

If you want real depth I feel the pulse induciton machines are top dog.Even the older garret pulse inductions would have great depth compared to Vlf machines,right...

I dunno I want to own them alll and have no perfered brand name.I have had machines I would not buy again but for them most part all my american made machines worked very well at one thing or another.
My garrett Infinium has been the only machine I would not sell so far.Could never replace it for what I payed and the cutomer service at garrett is amazing,never a problem and if there is fixed asap.

I think I would feel the same about the At PTO.I would buy a used one at a good price,if any things wrong Garrett treats all the customers well and a fix would be cheap if not free.
I have bought alot of used machines in the past and had only one machine with a problem.
 
That generally goes for coin hunters, who statistically make up the bulk of people who use metal detectors. Common coins don.t sink at a very fast rate unless they are in sand....
 
Can anyone explain to me Why my ATPRO will bottom out on depth with a good signal and after I've dug down 12 inches I still get the same vdi as before but it shows its down another 10 inches. I'm pinpointing find and digging wider than I need too but still getting the same vdi's but deeper down. I've been pulling the coil up and still getting the same vdi'? Also I'm hunting Pro mode zero with 3 bars of sensitivity and 20 ground balance and discriminating out foil hunting wet sand. I get a good steady VDI and reasonable depth but when I dig it the signal just disappears? Any suggestions, ideas, comments would be greatly appreciated.
 
Wet sand for me works better when I'm down around 5 to 8. Chasing a phantom target has happened to me in wet sand when a small target keeps washing deeper as I dig with incoming water. Seems like a race between me with the scoop and that blasted earing back. Even with my E-Trac on the beach I-ve had a few disappearing signals. Usually if I'm watching it will be a pocket of rusty sand where something small seems to have rusted to dust but left a pocket of oxide behind to drive my detector nuts.

If you're detecting on land and can lift your coil a ways and still get a solid signal you have either a can or a very large piece of iron or steel somewhere under the coil and it will often give a good vdi. I once dug 16" or so after a solid silver number only to hit an old wood cooking stove lid made of cast iron ans laying flat. It was driving the depth nuts as well. Large targets can do that to detectors sometimes. When I hit it at first it made my heart stop, thought I'd just hit an old strong box till I found the edge.
 
Thanks, Sailoerman, I'll turn my GB down to 5 and start from there again.I've noticed I had the same issue with depth in dry sand only to find beer cans down about 24". After going after a couple of those signals I don't dig more than 12".
 
Top