If you do not understand what I write, do not worry about it, look at the pictures, so it appears.
I am writing this post with my friend Google translate
. If you have questions, please do it simply
Predict I'm not big electronics mechanic.:clsoedeyes:
I wanted a good background lighting of the metal detector.
Discreet lighting. I only see, not the environment.
The first attempts. External lighting. Stuck to the cover. Light angle is too flat, a lot of reflection, poorly-read display.
Unfortunately, to take apart the machine, there is no other choice.
Let's look inside. Four screws to be taken out and you're done.
Two connectors to stretch, to take off the electronics.
Strong enough, but do it gently.
If successful, then you can see the back side of the display.
The idea is to illuminate the display from behind.
This will work, but something smooth lighting is necessary.
I used this parts. 5 mm thick acrylic (clear or opal-and-white), 4 mm thick of it would be better, but that was at hand. LED strip units. A fine abrasive paper (Over 200, I was only 100). Small piece of double-sided transparent adhesive.Colored self-adhesive foil. For example, Avery, Jac, Mactac...
The plexit polished to get a soft smooth surface. (Sample. this is not installed.)
The plexit be cut to size of display.Do not burnish the edge of the Plexiglas.
Double-sided adhesive tape pasted. I put foil mirror on the back side of Plexiglass for stronger light. is not visible on the picture.
Paste LED strip the edge of the Plexiglass.
Light test.
Foil is affixed on the back of the display.
Do it gently, and bubble free.The black marks disappear from the screen.
The electrical system.
Components used: 9V battery, three-position switch, the appropriate-sized instrument box, cables.
First position, continuous lighting, center off, back position instant switch.
The new cable next to the original cable.
The instrument box attached to the original screws. I put some washer under the second screw.
Check out this screw. It is important. If box is short, no problem.
Put it on Plexiglass with Leds to the back side of the display.
Connect back to the electronics. Screws up the box and you're done.
What I would like to have improved: the safety switch against accidental switching on (transport, storage, etc..) Potential meter illumination intensity control.
Thank you for reading.
obolus
I am writing this post with my friend Google translate
. If you have questions, please do it simply Predict I'm not big electronics mechanic.:clsoedeyes:
I wanted a good background lighting of the metal detector.
Discreet lighting. I only see, not the environment.
The first attempts. External lighting. Stuck to the cover. Light angle is too flat, a lot of reflection, poorly-read display.
Unfortunately, to take apart the machine, there is no other choice.
Let's look inside. Four screws to be taken out and you're done.
Two connectors to stretch, to take off the electronics.
Strong enough, but do it gently.
If successful, then you can see the back side of the display.
The idea is to illuminate the display from behind.
This will work, but something smooth lighting is necessary.
I used this parts. 5 mm thick acrylic (clear or opal-and-white), 4 mm thick of it would be better, but that was at hand. LED strip units. A fine abrasive paper (Over 200, I was only 100). Small piece of double-sided transparent adhesive.Colored self-adhesive foil. For example, Avery, Jac, Mactac...
The plexit polished to get a soft smooth surface. (Sample. this is not installed.)
The plexit be cut to size of display.Do not burnish the edge of the Plexiglas.
Double-sided adhesive tape pasted. I put foil mirror on the back side of Plexiglass for stronger light. is not visible on the picture.
Paste LED strip the edge of the Plexiglass.
Foil is affixed on the back of the display.
Do it gently, and bubble free.The black marks disappear from the screen.
The electrical system.
Components used: 9V battery, three-position switch, the appropriate-sized instrument box, cables.
First position, continuous lighting, center off, back position instant switch.
The new cable next to the original cable.
The instrument box attached to the original screws. I put some washer under the second screw.
Check out this screw. It is important. If box is short, no problem.
Put it on Plexiglass with Leds to the back side of the display.
Connect back to the electronics. Screws up the box and you're done.
What I would like to have improved: the safety switch against accidental switching on (transport, storage, etc..) Potential meter illumination intensity control.
Thank you for reading.
obolus
But you can use other types of lighting. The fiberglass should shed light on the edge.
