Here's one at night

[Scottowl]

[attachment 37406 UmatillaBridgeedit_edited-1.jpg]

I would like to get good at taking these kinds of shots. I am picking up a few things about my new camera, but I have a whole lot to learn about it.

How would you improve on this? I wanted it to be dark, but maybe this is a bit extreme. The water on the left side needs lightened up a bit. Should I leave the shutter open 15 seconds or more? F stop opened up to the max?

I am barely capable of changing these settings. With much more practice, maybe I will have an answer to these questions.

Anybody know any good Photoshop Elements books? How can I call up the exposure settings (shutter, fstop, ISO) on my images? Does it have to be done in PS? Can someone viewing a photo in this forum get that data?

 

[RM]

A tripod would have helped you make the necessary changes.
Remember with digital that you have today's Polaroid so you can instant view your results and make changes on the fly.

Elements will you you view your shooting data or any EXIF Data viewer.



RM

 

[Gord SW Ont]

If you increase the exposure in the camera you will be increasing the effect evenly throughout the image which you said is not what you wanted. If you only want to lighten a portion of the image it is easiest in an image processing program, such as, photoshop, elements, etc.

In this case, a simple way is to copy the background to a second layer and increase the exposure of this layer using the curves tool. Then by adding a mask to the upper layer you can paint with a soft white or black brush to reveal only the portion you are interested in changing. You could make it lighter/darker but restrict the effect only to where ever you want it. For example, I applied a very subtle effect to your picture:

[attachment 37459 Umatilla-Bridge2.jpg]

 

[Scottowl]

That is more like what I would like to learn how to do. I am trying to teach myself how to use Photoshop, and it is a slow process! How long did it take you to get these results? The layers part I don't yet understand.

I have to get a tripod before I get too serious about this. I was resting the camera on a post, and I believe the exposure time was 1 second. No wonder it's so blurry. What would be the best way to dim some of the overpowering lights?

Thanks for the insight!

 

[Gord SW Ont]

[quote Scottowl]That is more like what I would like to learn how to do. I am trying to teach myself how to use Photoshop, and it is a slow process! How long did it take you to get these results? The layers part I don't yet understand.

I have to get a tripod before I get too serious about this. I was resting the camera on a post, and I believe the exposure time was 1 second. No wonder it's so blurry. What would be the best way to dim some of the overpowering lights?[/quote]

=======================================================

It only took a couple of minutes to do. The hardest part was to determine what approach to use and how much of the effect to apply.

While you can do quite a lot with the simple auto tools (auto levels, auto curves, etc), learning to use layers is "really" useful so would be worth spending some time on.

The easiest way to get some idea of what it's about is make sure the "Layers" palette is open (click on the Window menu - Layers) and double click the left mouse button on the background layer to change it to a normal layer 0 (as the background is a special layer that is locked to most actions).

Then select the background (now "layer 0") & duplicate it (click right mouse button for context sensitive menu) which automatically creates a copy of it above the background layer (like stacking sheets vertically). If you reduce the new dup layer's opacity or play with the blending modes (at the top of the layer palette) what you'll see will be a composite of these two layers. However, note that initially you won't see a difference because they are identical.

If you apply, say, a filter to either of these layers and make the same adjustments to the opacity or blendin modes you'll see the effect of this compositing. This adding layers is extremely powerful. By using "adjustment layers" (a special kind of layer) you can make changes to your image without making them permanent so that you can select this layer and make additional revisions at any time or turn it off/on (use eye icon on left).

In your original photo, I mention having two layers ... your original and a dup which is lightened using the curve tool. I used a mask to selectively apply the effect but as that is probably a little confusing at this point you could use the eraser at reduced opacity to do the same thing. Keeping the opacity low (10 to 20%) erase a little of the upper layer which will allow the lower layer to come through where you desire. The problem with this approach is that it permanently destroys pixels so if you make a mistake you have to start over - while with a mask you just paint with a black/white/grey brush to add/subtract as required without destroying anything (it's called non-destructive processing).

Night shots really do need a tripod because of the long shutter speeds but the best exposure will still be a compromise. Some parts are likely to be over exposed and some under exposed. Post processing is probably the best way to make minor adjustments to limit these extremes.

Sorry to be so long winded ... hope this helps a little.

 

[Steve and Bia]

High Dynamic Range

[attachment 37943 ApartmentsHDR02.jpg]