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Anonymous
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This screen helps illustrate what I'm talking about on DEEP targets. the solid blue represents an average hit you will get from a 5" inch deep old silver dime. The solid green in the upper left corner is a shallow nail or other iron target. the solid red at the bottom is a 5" deep old nickel. The solid orange square near the top is an average 5" deep indian cent. In most conditions these targets will lock on in these areas fairly consistently. Now double the depth of those targets to 10 inches.... notice where the silver dime starts to read by the position of the light blue outline boxes, where the nickel reads by the position of the red outline boxes, the same for the indian cent and nail. The crosshair no longer "locks on" in one area, but bounces back and forth from the middle of the screen to right edge of the screen. Even though the crosshair is erratic in where it lands on the DEEP stuff it still kind of draws a short line between the 2 opposite hits where the true target ID will be somewhere close to the middle of that line segment. Also note that the hit on the left is a little higher than the hit on the right, causing the "line" to slant down to the right. Now the fun part... the green iron hits kind of land in the same general pattern as the good coins... but it will have a fairly consistent third hit that sticks in the upper left corner on its true ID spot. and the coin signals will also have a third hit over their respective true ID spot every now and then. This is a great way to separate a lot of deep iron from deep coins... this is a handy trick, since deep nails are so hard to pinpoint. Sometimes the presence of iron or other masking trash around a good coin will alter this somewhat, as well as ground mineralization, dampness, etc. Also the physical condition of the coin affects where the cross hair hits.
One more thing... if you get too many iron hits in the upper left corner that become bothersome, you can hunt with an audible threshold and iron mask set at about -10 to black out the far left iron area. Now when you get an iffy signal, like above, that is hard to determine coin or iron..... listen to threshold at the edges of the target's signal. On iron targets, the threshold nulls right around and amongst the target signal.... this nulling is the hits in the upper left that you just rejected out. If the threshold can be heard around and amongst the target signal, boy you've got an excellent shot at a good target. If you can catch onto this info and start hunting in the old deep ground, look out!!!
Hope this helps out <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT="
"> HH, Mike.
One more thing... if you get too many iron hits in the upper left corner that become bothersome, you can hunt with an audible threshold and iron mask set at about -10 to black out the far left iron area. Now when you get an iffy signal, like above, that is hard to determine coin or iron..... listen to threshold at the edges of the target's signal. On iron targets, the threshold nulls right around and amongst the target signal.... this nulling is the hits in the upper left that you just rejected out. If the threshold can be heard around and amongst the target signal, boy you've got an excellent shot at a good target. If you can catch onto this info and start hunting in the old deep ground, look out!!!
Hope this helps out <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT="
"> HH, Mike.