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HELP

Bassman1235

New member
I am new into metal detecting. I bought a X-Terra 70 and have been going to old cabins and such there is allot of nails and things I am having trouble telling the difference between those and the good stuff. Some times it comes up a good number then it goes to the negative numbers. I have never done it before and i am just not sure if i man doing it right?
 
Bassman,
By all means don't get frustrated in those sites you are hunting.
They are tough to hunt, but can yield some nice finds.
When hunting old home sites, you have to swing slower than you would at another site such as a park or school yard.
I have hunted quite a few of them and it is very tough hunting.
Since you are new to detecting and the machine, I would suggest you go to a site that is more user friendly and get to know your detector, then try the old home sites.
Setting the sensitivity down some will help and you can try a disc. mode, but you could miss some good targets with iron lying next to them causing a masking effect.
I'm guessing you have only the stock coil at this time.
Getting one of the smaller coils in the future is a good idea for hunting iron infested sites as it separates targets better since is "sees" less ground when swinging.
I have the 6" DD coil and it is very good in these places, but still it takes alot of patience to hunt these sites.
It's hard to explain techniques and sometimes you just have to get out a experiment until you get confident in your machine and it's abilities.
When hunting old home site, if a positive ID number comes up, it is a good idea to check it out even if the iron (negative) numbersn come up on the display.
Large iron objects will sometimes show an ID of 45, but you can usually tell by the signal size that it is iron and not a good signal, but remember sometimes iron relics can be good finds too, so don't pass over these without considering checking them out.
Lately, I have been finding coins that gave ID readings that jumped all over the place and even iron signals came up, so not all coins are going to give good ID sounds and numbers.
You can go to the frequent ask questions post at the top of this forum and learn things that will otherwise take months and years to learn.
Also read the posts on this forum and you will find it a very good source in helping you
get to know everything about the X-terras.
Hopefully someone else will post some more advice.... these guys are very helpful and always willing to help others out.
Keep at it looking forward to seeing your finds,
Felix
 
Briefly, all those old time alloy metals like tin cans, nick-nacks, ornaments, cast irons, white metal, brass, lead, some junk aluminum, larger size iron-steel objects, rusty nails, etc. can give a detectorist fits and confusion with ANY metal detector. With numbers jumping all over the place high and low.

Other people will give you advice here. First of all use a small 6" coil in high trask areas. It takes alot of practise to recognize the solid repeatable signals and consistant numbers of pure sliver, copper, and gold. Avoid all broken, non repeatable signals and jumping numbers from (especially) from both directions. If the area is loaded with trash then you could try blocking out all numbers below about 38 and dig only 38 and above. Or try that with about a lower 30 or so if there is not alot of aluminum, brass, or lead trash there.
 
Go to the faqfaq page at top of forum . There is a ton of good information on there. I have also learned to slow my swing way down. I have purchased a 6 inch hf coil also it works really well. Turn sensitivity down also . I hunt alot of high trash areas and it is nothing to dig 20 trash targets to get one coin , when I learned to dig trash and not get mad at digging it is when i started finding more coins. Don't get frustrated if your not digging trash your not finding all the coins. Hang in there you will learn that detector. It took me a while but now I really like mine. Great machine.
 
Thanks to all for the confidence. I really enjoy hunting wont be giving it up just needed some advice and i appreciate it.
 
Welcome to the site! Very glad to have you here.

I agree with using the FAQFAQ. It helped me more than the manual or any other info I have seen. It is a great resource, Beale.
 
These guys have gave you some great advice. I've been getting into the same kind of hunting you have been doing because there just aren't many people in my area. The only problem is you won't find much of value in those kind of sites. What I've gone to is the 6" DD HF coil because nothing separates the trash better than it. Expect to dig a lot of trash until you gain more experience using your detector and experience is the best teacher of all. Using pattern one will help save you a lot of headaches in those kinds of areas too as it will eliminate most of your iron targets except those in the high forties and old or deep iron. If getting a lot of trash reading the same numbers, notch them out, but at the risk of missing something of value. A Pro-Pointer is a great help when your detector indicates a shallow (under 2") good target, but you suspect trash. Just run the Pro-Pointer over it and if it indicates nothing, then most likely you have deep trash. If you eventually want to start finding a lot of coins, you'll have to go to places where people have concentrated at such as ball fields, parking areas, beaches, parks and so forth. Good luck hunting! Mtnmn
 
David said:
Other people will give you advice here. Avoid jumping numbers from (especially) from both directions.

I am sorry but this is just horrible advice :shocked:........honestly on the sites I detect.....old homesites..........numbers are RARELY EVER CONSISTENT without jumping, when you have a ton of iron all over a yard, it is almost impossible to get a solid target signal.

I have dug so MANY wheats, silver, and indians that jump wildly all over the chart. BUT they give a nice repeatable "SOUND" from several directions.

You CANNOT only rely on numbers, normally that is a good indicator, but not always. Have you ever hunted a old field homesite? There are 7 million items that will register as a good coin signal, not just coins.

I hunt in multi tone and I RELY on my ears to tell me whether to dig or not. I do NOT rely on the numbers, they are merely the machine suggesting what the item may be. Once you get more hours on your machine you will understand just what I am saying. I have close to 2000 hours on my x-70 now. I am getting very familiar with it's language.
 
Goes4ever is right about sounds being the most important indicator of a good target. That and a good quality pair of earphones to hear them with. Would recommend you work your way up to multi-tones by getting used to hearing what fewer tones are telling you first. I'm currently up to four tones after 8 months of using the X-T 70 and having first gone thru 1, 2 and 3 tones. Doubt if I'll ever get up to multi-tones because of having too much hearing loss.
 
I am also new to the detecting world. And I completely understand where you are coming from. I try to dig everything that sounds reasonable and I'm learning what things sound like. It can be a slow process at times and confusing. But when you uncover something that has value it is worth the time. I'm hunting in an area infested with nails and whatever has a negative value BUT I did find a nice 1899 barber dime!! So it's all worth it. By the way nice to meet all of you!!
 
Jack Beam said:
I am also new to the detecting world. And I completely understand where you are coming from. I try to dig everything that sounds reasonable and I'm learning what things sound like. It can be a slow process at times and confusing. But when you uncover something that has value it is worth the time. I'm hunting in an area infested with nails and whatever has a negative value BUT I did find a nice 1899 barber dime!! So it's all worth it. By the way nice to meet all of you!!
Welcome to the forum
 
I ain't trying to start an argument here. But I actually agree with part of what both of you say. I, too, would recommend the small DD coil. I don't watch my TID numbers. I agree that Pure silver and copper will each give consistent signals (being of similar sizes and barring adjacent targets) And I seldom dig targets that are not consistent when sweeping over them repeatedly. Audio or TID. And they don't have to be consistent from all directions, (due to adjacent trash). But if I don't get audio consistency when sweeping over the target from the same direction repeatedly, I don't dig it. The difference in what we listen for and watch for can be boiled down to the hunt mode we chose. I typically hunt in all metal mode with multiple tones. As such, I can both hear the audio response and see the TID of all metal targets in the ground. When I hear the low grunt of a ferrous target, followed by a high tone, I know it might be an adjacent coin or simply a false tone from the outer edge of the coil. Going slowly over that spot from different directions will tell me how many ferrous targets there are, and where they are located. For example, (and you can try this at home), bury a few rusty nails in a circular pattern, a few inches farther apart than the diameter of the coil you will be using. Now sweep over them in all metal and listen to how many tones you get. You should be able to locate each nail. Now, switch to a Pattern that rejects those ferrous targets and sweep over them again. You might not hit a solid tone on any of the nails. But depending on how fast you're sweeping, I'd almost bet you will get at least one high tone from the "back side" of the first ferrous target. In fact, if you hover the coil between all three of the ferrous targets, you will likely get false high tone signals from just about any direction. And getting that "high tone" from the same place, over and over again, can cause you to dig a lot of empty holes. Again, it depends on how fast you are sweeping. That is why I like to hunt trashy areas in all metal and with a small DD coil. It gives me a tone for each target, rejected and accepted, as well as TID numbers for each. I know if there are multiple ferrous targets within the diameter of the coil, and how many. If there are, I can approach it from a different direction and determine if there might be a good target mixed in with the trash. To verify, I can go to Sizing Pinpoint and determine exactly where each target is. All of them. Ferrous and conductive. In a Pattern mode, you won't get tones on rejected targets. Instead, you get threshold nulling and the TID is blank. Like G4E, I like to hunt old farmsites. We just have different ways of doing it. I usually scout the place out with the 9-inch concentric at 3 kHz, followed by the 6-inch DD for those congested areas. When I use to hunt those trashy areas in a Pattern mode, I was constantly going back over choppy targets, checking to see if it was a false signal on a deep piece of iron, if I was sweeping too fast when I went over a rejected target, or I simply didn't get the coil centered over an accepted target. In my opinion, the reason folks using Pattern mode see their numbers bounce around is because rejected targets will skew the TID reading. Remember, rejected targets don't give a number. They give two dashed lines. And I also think the audio is not as "pure" due to the nulling of the threshold on those rejected targets. In all metal mode, multiple tones, there is no doubt what is under the coil as all metal objects have their own TID and audio tone. As such, falsing is minimized, TID is more consistent and audio tones are distinct. The only time I get falsing in all metal, multiple tone mode is when my GB or sensitivity is too high. JMHO HH Randy
 
Hello Bassman1235,

If you log onto and take a look at this video link it may help out a tad?

http://www.mlotv.com/view/621/coins-plus-feature-in-x-terra-705-70-explained/
 
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