Help With Determining Trash on E-Trac

[BryanM362]

Hi all,

Just upgraded from an AT Pro to the e-trac a few weeks ago. I probably have 8 hours on the e-trac.

Looking for tricks/tips on how to ID cans and trash from coins. Seems like the numbers are about the same on the e-trac, or at least overlap enough that it's hard to ID trash from treasure.

Do you rely more on the sound in some way?

Any tips appreciated.

Bryan

 

[sprchng]

It has a lot to do with sound but not just the tones involved. The crispness and clarity is also important , especially when rusty nails and bolts come into to play. Good targets also pinpoint easier. Flattened cans are a drag either way.
I'm referring to multi conductive tones , as that's the only way I hunt unless I switch to ferrous, and the other important thing is that the tones MATCH the numbers which comes with usage and experience. You will learn that certain numbers don't match the sound you're getting and you just have to dig them. I had a particularly odd sounding dime/copper penny tone for a 08-34 the other day in a trashy park and dug a nickel and quarter an inch apart. Most of the chains I've dug have given me similar odd ball tones---dig the strange ones.

 

[utahshovelhead]

at first dig the good solid responses and numbers that come in steady and unchanging within your chosen discrimination pattern. Soon you will start to experiment with the numbers not so solid and the sounds not so solid and you will discover that they are mostly trash. Some items are good that may not come in really strong but you will notice more consistency in the number and sound and be more used to it by then. One thing for sure...you will not be sad about not digging so many pull tabs and bottle caps.

good luck

 

[DiggerODirt]

Check out the e-Trac classroom forum and try the Park pattern. This will eliminate most trash from being detected, but will also knock out most gold items too...

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?71,1474104

HH,

 

[MHirschmann]

Best tip I can give for avoiding cans is to raise your coil. If you hit a can, it will sound great. If you have a signal that you are questioning is a can, simply raise your coil off the ground. If you can raise your coil 6 inches, a foot or even more, it is a can 99.9% of the time. Now, I must say, DO NOT use this trick if you are in an older area where there is potential for a buried mason jar full of silver coins. You would hate to walk away from a screaming signal, after lifting up your coil, only to hear of another guy talking about the jar full of coins he got a couple weeks after you were there. Either way, the coil-raising trick works well for me and I never dig cans anymore.

I hope this helps you with your problem. Good luck and let us know if you have any further questions. HH -Marc

 

[Big Boys Hobbies]

Rely on sound ALWAYS! Best way to learn is dig all repeatable signals and make metal notes on how the audio responds on the good targets. That will tell you all you really need to know.

 

[Sooper Dave]

A lot of good advice here!

 

[BryanM362]

Thanks everyone!

I have gotten about another 6 hours on the e-trac, and I have to say it is already starting to make more sense.

 

[Johnnyanglo]

The sad reality is there isn't any sure-fire method of knowing if for instance a 13-01 repeatable TID is a worthless foil wrapper or a ladies white-gold ring with a 1ct stone. Is that 12-21 signal just another pull-tab or a men's gold ring? How are you gonna know? There is no way to know. In the end, the TID is nice as a way of narrowing down the probability of the target identity but you just have to dig to confirm. Those who are more willing to dig are the ones who make the great finds. As far as buried soda cans go - if you still have a wide (e.g., pinpointer alerts in a wide swath across the hole bottom) and strong signal in the bottom of a 10" deep hole - it isn't a coin.