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Help with Coin Noises

A

Anonymous

Guest
I have had my Exp II since the Newyear and I still have difficulty with determining when to dig. I know what coins sound like when they are relatively shallow to medium depth. The fluty round sound is unmistakable.
I am having problems with those signals that hit in the coin range but are not fluty. I have dug some that are coins and others are usually some round or irregular shape of copper, brass, or aluminum.
Also, many of the signals are repeatable and once I dig the hole, nothing is there. I am assuming this may be ground mineralization.
Is it normal for coins to loose their fluty sound around a depth of 5" or greater?
I would appreciate your input as when to dig coin range signal.
 
Gee it takes a while to learn the language of your machine and have dug 10 inch plus silver dimes that still sound flutey..Things to take into consideration are your hearing( tone wise) gain, variability and even fast on will cut your signal shorter.Remember the audio is only one aspect and the crosshairscreen and digital numbers also play a part in to dig or not. Personally I would take a nickel and dime and air test the audio until they are ingrained in your perception. Might also want to head for the nearest beach and dig all paying attention to the audio of each signal. Remember you are not going to learn overnight, but after each trip you should be more adept at interpetting an audio signal.Go slow and all will fall into place, heck your machine must still smell new..
 
I also am a new Explorer II user and have realized that interpreting the audio signals is very imporant. So I gathered together all the US coins I could find and used the Explorers Advanced Mode's Learn Option to create a discrimination pattern just for these coins. Before everyone yells at me because I will be missing targets - I use this pattern as a learning/training aid to help ingrain on my brain the sounds of these coins and eliminating most everything else.
I also have done what Dan-Pa suggested - passing coins past the coil while relaxing on the couch. I bought a 5 foot long, all plastic tomato stake at a local garden shop and 12 inches from one end I slowly heated the stake until I formed an easy radius 90 degree bend. At the end of the 12"s I put a goob of clay to stick coins to. The clay allows change the angle of the coins seen by the coil. With this tool I sit back in the couch and dangle coins near the coil and can still watch or have access to the display.
Greg
 
Kalvin,
It is my opinion that most empty holes are caused by improper pinpointing. But, coins that are on edge or when there are multiple targets close together under the coil will cause pinpointing problems.
Taking a few extra seconds to pinpoint accurately pays off in the long run. Many do not agree, but I find that the "Pinpoint" mode is a more accurate way to pinpoint than the discriminate mode. The reason for this is that the "Pinpoint" mode sounds off over a much smaller area than the discriminate mode. My suggestion is to try it and see for yourself.
HH,
Glenn
 
I found it easier to disconnect the coil and bottom stem and reconnect the coil to the control box. This way the coil is within arms reach with the control box and be easily see. Then it is easy to manipulate a coin on top of the coil and see how it registers.
 
Chris,
Your suggestion is the obvious one. I assumed that everyone knew that. Sometimes I forget that some people don't have or use the X1 probe.
Thanks,
Glenn
 
That's just to easy. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Must have lost to many brain cells over the years.
Thanks Much, Greg
 
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