A friend of mine can't seem to get his ctx to turn on. He's tried removing the battery, tried different batteries, AA and a second re-chargable one, Hooked it up to his pc and started up eXchange 2 thinking that might help. It didn't. Anything else anybody can think of would be appreciated. Thanks.
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HELP! CTX won't turn on!!
- Thread starter unearth
- Start date
Buried Crap NJ
New member
Haven't seen this one yet? Another one bites the dust for yet another issue? Keep us all posted. Hope it all works out well for you buddy.
BCNJ
BCNJ
Dave Fisher
New member
Hi,
Had the same problem with mine, on a weekend rally, detected Friday, Saturday, went the the field Sunday & nothing.
Tried another batt pack with eneloop rechargers in there, went back to the car & put the main pack on the charge again, nothing,
Spent 2 hours trying to get it on, in the end I packed it up & sat there sulking lol.
This wasn't the 1st time it had happened though, 4th time to be precise, but unplug the battery & refit it worked before.
Monday morning I was on the phone to my supplier, within 10 mins it was collected by courier, on the thur morning a brand new one was delivered,
No explanation, notes or anything.
Can't knock my supplier for customer care. And for some strange reason this new one is as if its on steroids, only been out twice with it on recent land,
It's like learning the settings all over again, even though I crossed them over in the CTX exchange.
Regards Dave.
Had the same problem with mine, on a weekend rally, detected Friday, Saturday, went the the field Sunday & nothing.
Tried another batt pack with eneloop rechargers in there, went back to the car & put the main pack on the charge again, nothing,
Spent 2 hours trying to get it on, in the end I packed it up & sat there sulking lol.
This wasn't the 1st time it had happened though, 4th time to be precise, but unplug the battery & refit it worked before.
Monday morning I was on the phone to my supplier, within 10 mins it was collected by courier, on the thur morning a brand new one was delivered,
No explanation, notes or anything.
Can't knock my supplier for customer care. And for some strange reason this new one is as if its on steroids, only been out twice with it on recent land,
It's like learning the settings all over again, even though I crossed them over in the CTX exchange.
Regards Dave.
Dave Fisher
New member
Possibly, I had to switch to auto, manual was pounding my ears with deep iron, which wasn't there last time, decided to try a diff field & I had a cracking signal, I thought I was diggin to china, I swear my plug was 2 1/2 foot deep & it was a tin can lol, but 2 1/2 foot I couldn't believe it.
Even though manual was less than the auto I could still get the deep iron.
Can't wait to try this on the beach with the deep sand.
I can see I've a lot to learn with this new machine all over again, not complaining though.
Dave
Even though manual was less than the auto I could still get the deep iron.
Can't wait to try this on the beach with the deep sand.
I can see I've a lot to learn with this new machine all over again, not complaining though.
Dave
Diamond Dan
New member
A friend of mine is have that same issue with 2 of his CTX 3030s.
He sent one to Minelab a couple times and they are saying the problem is his battery pack.
I don’t believe it’s the battery pack because he has several battery packs including one with new alkaline batteries and they can’t all be bad. I believe the issue is the connection where the battery pack plugs in. My therory is, the connection is loosing its tensil strength. The same thing happens to the receptacles that you plug electrical devices and appliances into, in your home.
Maybe something Minelab may need to look into.
He sent one to Minelab a couple times and they are saying the problem is his battery pack.
I don’t believe it’s the battery pack because he has several battery packs including one with new alkaline batteries and they can’t all be bad. I believe the issue is the connection where the battery pack plugs in. My therory is, the connection is loosing its tensil strength. The same thing happens to the receptacles that you plug electrical devices and appliances into, in your home.
Maybe something Minelab may need to look into.
IDXMonster
Well-known member
Diamond Dan said:
6 year old post Dan!
Indeed,if someone is having these issues NOW and they have one of the original machines,it very well could be fatigue in the connection points. Mines over 2 years old and is flawless so far(knocking on wood)....Buried Crap NJ
New member
Mine just came back from Minelab 30 days ago after an overhaul and they replaced the head. Second attempt to turn on it would not turn on with switch. Pulled battery and it started as I pulled battery. booted into Geo page could not go back Had to pull battery. When I did get it turn on it would shut down in 5 minutes. I tried several batteries and it would reboot to detect sometimes and geo page sometimes. I pulled battery to shut off replaced battery. I heard it trying to start on its own several hours later.
very weird Steve
very weird Steve
IDXMonster
Well-known member
bklein said:
Whoa! Hold the horse Tonto! “Coin cell battery” WHERE? Is this like a CR2032 watch battery or something that size but rechargeable and constantly gets replenished by the main? I assume it is simply for holding the memory or is there some other use? Thanks...
IDX,
I believe it's more specifically a CR1220...for the NVRam. (real time clock and other saved settings)
Those coin cell/watch batteries are typically primary (non-rechargeable) lithium, and do NOT get "constantly replenished by the main".
They should last about 7-ish years....plus or minus.
You can see a picture of it in this thread: https://www.findmall.com/read.php?86,2208946,page=3
Serious note:
That main board is in the under-arm compartment.
And when you open it up, all semblance of 'guaranteed water-proofing' is now out the window.
Yes, you might get it back together and have it perfectly sealed, but you should assume any remaining warrany just flew away.
If you want to replace it, I'd suggest you first:
1. Wait until your warranty is up.
2. Make certain you feel qualified to work on a computer (that's what it is).
3. Accept all the responsibility for possibly creating an expensive door-stop.
mike
I believe it's more specifically a CR1220...for the NVRam. (real time clock and other saved settings)
Those coin cell/watch batteries are typically primary (non-rechargeable) lithium, and do NOT get "constantly replenished by the main".
They should last about 7-ish years....plus or minus.
You can see a picture of it in this thread: https://www.findmall.com/read.php?86,2208946,page=3
Serious note:
That main board is in the under-arm compartment.
And when you open it up, all semblance of 'guaranteed water-proofing' is now out the window.
Yes, you might get it back together and have it perfectly sealed, but you should assume any remaining warrany just flew away.
If you want to replace it, I'd suggest you first:
1. Wait until your warranty is up.
2. Make certain you feel qualified to work on a computer (that's what it is).
3. Accept all the responsibility for possibly creating an expensive door-stop.
mike
Yeah if your unit is in warranty just send it in.
You should see a lot of weird behavior if the coin cell is low. I wouldn’t expect it to affect turn on but who knows.
If your unit is out of warranty I’d try and find the issue myself.
Remove and reseat your pod data connection (next to coil connection). Check for damage of this cable as mine was seriously nicked by the housing.
Try to connect to the exchange software and see if the pc sees it as a device.
You should see a lot of weird behavior if the coin cell is low. I wouldn’t expect it to affect turn on but who knows.
If your unit is out of warranty I’d try and find the issue myself.
Remove and reseat your pod data connection (next to coil connection). Check for damage of this cable as mine was seriously nicked by the housing.
Try to connect to the exchange software and see if the pc sees it as a device.